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  1. #11
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    You're aiming for 88-92*F as measured by the probe of your digital thermometer right on the substrate underneath the warm dry hide. That's the temp your leo feels when she's inside.


    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
    • 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

    Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).


    Depending upon your leo's age here's what I recommend. Since you already have Zoo Med's Reptivite with D3, use Zoo Med's Repti Calcium without D3 or NOW brand pure calcium from a health foods store for the other 1-2 feedings that week.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 02-25-2019 at 04:17 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks chillwill007 thanked for this post

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chillwill007 View Post
    I know I'll probably get yelled at but I'm hoping to be able to get another female in here in a couple weeks for my son. Do you guys think my set up is good enough for that? I was thinking of getting some of those slate pieces and making another hide or 2 by laying then across the den
    No, this is minimum size for only one leo. Leos do best housed alone. Do not forget about quarantine, wash hands between handling and do not share any supplies such as thermometer probes and forceps inside cages.
    Last edited by Sg612; 02-25-2019 at 09:08 PM.

  3. #13
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    I would keep two leo's in at least a forty gallon tank. I have succesfully kept two in fifty-five gallons, but I think a 20 gallon may be a little small. I would keep the two in difrent tanks. From my expirience approx. 65% of the time the females get along. I have tried this with a few. Usually if they are raised together they get along fine, but pairs that have not been had got along just fine for me too It just depends on their personalities. Your gecko looks beautiful and your tank looks great!

  4. #14
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    Yeah he wants his own tank in his room anyways. He just doesn't have that much room in his room. So might try and do a 15 gallon tank instead. But if I can fit a 20L I'll try and mimic this setup for him too.

  5. #15
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    On another note when I got home around 645 she was finally out of the den and hanging out under the make shift hut part that I made up against the humid hide. But then when I started hooking up the thermostat she panic ran around and jumped back I to the den on the side.
    So when I first laid the probe in the hot hut it was only 72. I set thermostat to 91 like suggested here. By the time I left for work it had worked its way up to 88.9. I sprayed down the moss in the hut and also sprayed the cork for added moisture. If I remember correctly when I was leaving for work there cool side was 72 and humidity was 42%

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by chillwill007 View Post
    Yeah he wants his own tank in his room anyways. He just doesn't have that much room in his room. So might try and do a 15 gallon tank instead. But if I can fit a 20L I'll try and mimic this setup for him too.
    Please try your best to set up your son's leo in a 20 gallon long.


    Quarantine Recommendations
    Any new gecko should be quarantined for a minimum of 90 days. That gives adequate time to check for parasites, cryptosporidiosis, and the beginnings of coccidia plus. 3-6 months quarantine are recommended if your new gecko is imported or wild caught.

    • Set up the new animal as far as possible from your current animals.
    • Set up the quarantined animal as simply as possible -- with a paper towel floor and homemade plastic hides that can be tossed, if necessary.
    • Feed the quarantined gecko last. (Maybe use vinyl gloves.)
    • Toss uneaten prey. Never share prey between geckos or toss uneaten prey back into the feeding bin!
    • Do not share any supplies such as thermometer probes or feeding tongs between cages.
    • Wash hands thoroughly between handling geckos.

    The quarantine area should ideally be in a separate room apart from your established geckos. Stringent sanitation methods MUST be followed!
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-01-2019 at 02:37 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Likes Sg612 liked this post

  7. #17
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    So just got home from work and wanted to check out the stats
    Cool side readings


    Hot hide


    Probe placements


    And just her in her den again in the morning

  8. #18
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    I can't really tell if she ate any mealworms. Didn't really count them out. But I did put one in the den with her and don't see that one. But not sure if it just crawled out out not. Should I take those mealworms out? I mean I know it's only her 3rd day
    And I'm sure the kids have spoken her most of the time.

  9. #19
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    Very often a leo does not eat right away. The heat must be good. Now she has a little warm area.

    Usually leos don't spend much time in their cool hides. They like "closed off" hides like the one she's in this morning -- with just a single entrance. That just feels "safer".

    See what happens when you switch the hide on the left (2 entrances) with the hide on the right (1 entrance)? Another option would be a warm dry hide like this Exo Terra hide.

    • The digital thermometer's probe shows 71.7*F inside the humid hide in the center. That's way too cool for a humid hide. A cool damp leo is prone to respiratory infections like pneumonia.

      What temp do you get when you place this probe inside the center hide? That's what your leo feels.

    • Please verify the thermostat's setting by taping the thermostat's probe to the digital thermometer's probe.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 02-26-2019 at 09:30 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  10. #20
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    I moved the center humid hide over towards hot side more. I was looking for a hide like that but they didn't have one there. I'll check later on when I get home. At taekwondo right now. Me and my daughter are belt testing today.
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

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