Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Am I Doing Everything Right?


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    I am pretty new to owning reptiles (I only have one leopard gecko), and even though I did months of research before getting Penny and still doing research today, I just don't feel extremely confident.

    Name: Penny
    Age: 4/5 months
    Gender: Unknown yet
    Morph: Idk, Penny was from Petco (this was a really good Petco that actually had a nice setup for the reptiles)

    Setup:
    Penny is in your average 20 gallon long tank. I have an UTH (can't remember the brand) that takes up almost half of the tank and is set at 90. Penny has a warm hide, a hide that is half warm half cool, and two cool hides (just filling in some space). The food bowl is on the warm end and the water is in the cool end. I do not have any special lighting, just some led lights I got at Five Below that seem to provide the right amount of light. I also have some aquarium plants in a few places as well.

    Humid hide:
    Penny's humid hide is a plastic food tub with an entrance on the side. I recently started putting Eco Earth in there topped with a thin layer of spahgnam moss (Penny decided to eat the Eco Earth as soon as I put it in there). It stays on the warm end and is misted daily.

    Feeding:
    Penny currently eats mostly crickets and mealworms, and recently had it's first superworm (I still don't feel completely comfortable feeding them). I usually feed four small crickets or 3 medium sized mealworms a day. I switch it up quite often. I use both calcium with d3 and multivitamin supplements everyday mixed together.

    Handling:
    I unfortunately can't handle Penny too much as he/she is very squirmy still. When I first got Penny, I didn't do any handling or touching until a week later. Any way to helo calm my little baby down?

    Please ask any questions in case I missed something or it is a little confusing. I am still new to reptiles and even though I did months of watching videos and reading articles and going through social media, things are still a bit confusing to me.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    117
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Hm, are you gutloading the food? What’s the substrate you use? I’d suggest cutting back on the supplements- my current system is pure calcium one feeding, multivitamin the next feeding, calcium with d3 the next feeding, and then a feeding without any dust, though I don’t feed every day. My dusting schedule might be too much tbh... the most I can say with confidence is that both every day is too much.

    Are you letting ‘em eat till their full? Personally, the only one I’m hesitant to do that with is a female who would probably eat till she puked if I let her.

    This is more of a “Hey, this has helped me” thing, but if you haven’t bought a temperature gun, I’d do so. I’ve learned that at least one of my thermostat probes isn’t the best at reading the correct temperature so I have to gun his cage.

    As for taming? I’ve actually had super good luck hand feeding mine their waxworm treats. They connect my fingers with food and know that my fingers are good. They don’t bite that hard

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Silverfire View Post
    Hm, are you gutloading the food? What’s the substrate you use? I’d suggest cutting back on the supplements- my current system is pure calcium one feeding, multivitamin the next feeding, calcium with d3 the next feeding, and then a feeding without any dust, though I don’t feed every day. My dusting schedule might be too much tbh... the most I can say with confidence is that both every day is too much.

    Are you letting ‘em eat till their full? Personally, the only one I’m hesitant to do that with is a female who would probably eat till she puked if I let her.

    This is more of a “Hey, this has helped me” thing, but if you haven’t bought a temperature gun, I’d do so. I’ve learned that at least one of my thermostat probes isn’t the best at reading the correct temperature so I have to gun his cage.

    As for taming? I’ve actually had super good luck hand feeding mine their waxworm treats. They connect my fingers with food and know that my fingers are good. They don’t bite that hard
    I am using reptile carpet for the substrate. And I am gut loading the insects. I am using Flukers cricket diet (the powder stuff, not the cubes as the stores near me are always sold out) for all of my feeder insects. Is that okay for the mealworms and superworms as well?

    I will definitely check out a thermometer gun. I know I do need a new thermostat as well as mine makes really annoying sounds as it turns on and off.

    I will also pick up some plain calcium as well. Hopefully by this weekend. Is there a store that has some for a good price? I don't mind having to price match.

    I had a feeling I was using to much supplements. I just couldn't find any info on how much and when to use it, only what to use and why. I may just use separate baggies to shake up crickets in a separate supplement, just to avoid wasting any.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    20,866
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    78 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HolbyCity View Post
    I am using reptile carpet for the substrate. And I am gut loading the insects. I am using Flukers cricket diet (the powder stuff, not the cubes as the stores near me are always sold out) for all of my feeder insects. Is that okay for the mealworms and superworms as well?

    I will definitely check out a thermometer gun. I know I do need a new thermostat as well as mine makes really annoying sounds as it turns on and off.

    I will also pick up some plain calcium as well. Hopefully by this weekend. Is there a store that has some for a good price? I don't mind having to price match.

    I had a feeling I was using to much supplements. I just couldn't find any info on how much and when to use it, only what to use and why. I may just use separate baggies to shake up crickets in a separate supplement, just to avoid wasting any.
    It's easier to use plastic deli cups to lightly dust the insects. That's much easier than baggies.

    Next time you buy a dry diet for your bugs, try Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload instead. Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Food is really poor. It's not high in calcium at all.

    Please list all supplements you use: brand, name, & frequency. Generally it's not a good idea to mix them together.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 04-30-2019 at 01:41 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    For the calcium, it is the Exo Terra brand. For the multivitamins, it is the National Geographic (I accidentally spilled mine, so I rushed to PetsMart and that's all they had. No idea how good it is)

    Also, are any of these products any good? I am planning on doing a shopping spree this weekend.

    Moss- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    Calcium without d3- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    Water gel beads- https://www.dollartree.com/floral-hy...oz-jars/167288

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    20,866
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    78 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HolbyCity View Post
    For the calcium, it is the Exo Terra brand. For the multivitamins, it is the National Geographic (I accidentally spilled mine, so I rushed to PetsMart and that's all they had. No idea how good it is)

    Also, are any of these products any good? I am planning on doing a shopping spree this weekend.

    Moss- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    Calcium without d3- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    Water gel beads- https://www.dollartree.com/floral-hy...oz-jars/167288
    Those are advertised as "Floral Gel Beads". I'd get reptile ones instead. I've heard it's best not to use water gels/crystals at all. For insect moisture use 2 layers of paper towels. Wet the paper towels 1x per day, squeeze them out thoroughly, and lay them on top of the egg flats. Moisture can also be offered via high calcium/low phosphorus greens.



    I recommend these products instead of those you've linked.
    Weekly Schedule 124 for Leopard Geckos 0-12 months old
    (without UVB)

    • Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
    • Mealworms >> Tuesday
    • Crickets or dubia >> Wednesday - lightly dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate without D3 (Zoo Med's Repti Calcium or NOW human brand calcium)
    • Crickets or dubia >> Thursday
    • Crickets or dubia >> Friday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
    • Mealworms >> Saturday
    • No food or free choice >> Sunday
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 04-30-2019 at 02:13 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    20,866
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    78 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    Setup:
    Penny is in your average 20 gallon long tank. I have an UTH (can't remember the brand) that takes up almost half of the tank and is set at 90. Penny has a warm hide, a hide that is half warm half cool, and two cool hides (just filling in some space). The food bowl is on the warm end and the water is in the cool end. I do not have any special lighting, just some led lights I got at Five Below that seem to provide the right amount of light. I also have some aquarium plants in a few places as well.

    Humid hide:
    Penny's humid hide is a plastic food tub with an entrance on the side. I recently started putting Eco Earth in there topped with a thin layer of spahgnam moss (Penny decided to eat the Eco Earth as soon as I put it in there). It stays on the warm end and is misted daily.
    Maybe switch the humid hide to all sphagnum moss? Some leos eat sphagnum moss; others also eat paper towel strips. Go figure!

    Does Penny have both a warm dry hide and a warm moist hide? Both these hides should sit totally on top of the heat mat.

    What color are your LED lights? Do you turn them off at night?
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 04-30-2019 at 02:04 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    Maybe switch the humid hide to all sphagnum moss? Some leos eat sphagnum moss; others also eat paper towel strips. Go figure!

    Does Penny have both a warm dry hide and a warm moist hide? Both these hides should sit totally on top of the heat mat.

    What color are your LED lights? Do you turn them off at night?
    Heres a pic of the tank:

    15566458885631308412452.jpg

    The lights are warm white that can be adjusted and I turn them off at night (Penny is in my bedroom and I don't like to sleep with lights anyway)

    Penny also has a warm dry hide as well as a warm humid hide. The only reason I don't like using moss is because Penny has decided the humid hide doubles as a potty and if I leave the poop in there for more than 5 hours it will get a little moldy. Plus the moss dries out a bit faster than the Eco Earth I have noticed.

    Do any of the big chain pet stores carry dubia roaches? The ones I shop at are PetsMart, Petco, and Pet Supplies Plus. I do have a Petland near me as well, but I don't prefer them as they took forever to get me the crickets (at least they gave me 19 even though they said the sold them only be the dozen. Guess they accidentally put a few extra in. It was pretty cheap too.) I am not too sure about ordering online as shipping can get quite expensive and I am worried they would end up dying as I live in Texas which has bipolar weather. One day it will be 90+ and that night will be 60!

    Could I use any vegetables instead to feed the insects? I know some people only use carrots, cucumbers, and squash. But will that provide enough nutrients?
    Last edited by HolbyCity; 04-30-2019 at 01:55 PM.
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Tennessee USA
    Posts
    462
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)

    Default

    for the moist hide's substrate, I would recommend natural sea sponges, there is a link below. I use these and he loves them, he will actually curl up around them and sleep, they stay moist and they come in packs of four, this allows me to use to of them while the other two are sterilized and washed. they are only 1-2" but it makes them the perfect size to fit in the hide.https://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Sponge...2DXFQTT8QSM60H
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    20,866
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    78 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    Do any of the big chain pet stores carry dubia roaches? The ones I shop at are PetsMart, Petco, and Pet Supplies Plus. I do have a Petland near me as well, but I don't prefer them as they took forever to get me the crickets (at least they gave me 19 even though they said the sold them only be the dozen. Guess they accidentally put a few extra in. It was pretty cheap too.) I am not too sure about ordering online as shipping can get quite expensive and I am worried they would end up dying as I live in Texas which has bipolar weather. One day it will be 90+ and that night will be 60!

    Could I use any vegetables instead to feed the insects? I know some people only use carrots, cucumbers, and squash. But will that provide enough nutrients?
    Phone your pet stores to see whether they carry dubia. Maybe some will?

    Carrots, cucumbers, and squash are all good for moisture and nutrition. However, insects really can't get all they need from veggies alone. What you feed your insects ends up feeding your gecko. Professional Reptiles make a good, yet inexpensive, dry diet you could use.

    A 24/7 dry insect diet should contain (~16% protein, less than 5% fat, moderate fiber) plus vitamin D3, vitamin A acetate (retinol) or vitamin A palmitate, and vitamin B12!

    (Already ground) Pro Gutload diet (by Professional Reptiles)


    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    "A commercial gut loading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas."

    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here is a list of great ingredients to use:
    Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion flowers & leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."
    Here's exactly how I keep my crickets. A similar setup works for dubia.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 05-07-2019 at 02:57 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

User Tag List

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •