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    Default New owner of a 4yo Leo


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    Hello everyone!

    First time here, just had a few questions...

    She came in a Exo Terra 18x18...
    I upgraded her to a 36x18x12, rough tile substrate, and introduced her to uvb.
    Zilla 18Ē uvb t8... itís on top of the mesh screen so I thought this would be appropriate. Is it too much??

    Her temps are 90-91f ground temp on hot side... 75-80 on cold side.
    She came with a CHE which Iím temporarily using with a thermostat until I get a deep heat projector or UTH.
    Any recommendations on what size UTH? Iíd prefer to use one, and have heard both 1/3 and 1/2 of the floorspace should be covered. Which one?

    Her eating has slowed down a bit but Iím guessing that has to do with a lot of the changes she has experienced with me getting her a more adequate set up.
    Should I immediately stop with the d3? I have calcium with and without d3, and herptivite multivitamin on hand.

    I did feed her a giant hornworm and she hasnít been super interested in her crickets since she was fed primarily mealworms before I got her.

    Any suggestions/advice would be great!

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    Her moist hide is in the middle. If I get a UTH Iíll move the uvb to the right side (hot side)... if I get a deep heat projector the set up will be the same. Any suggestions welcome! In case I didnít mention it she spends a lot of her time on the hot side under her hot side hide...
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    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post

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    Welcome to GU and gecko ownership. The temperatures sound fine. I tend to go with smaller heat mats but others use larger ones. I don't think leopard geckos particularly need light as long as the room they are in has ambient light. If you are going to use a T8 light, get a 5.0 as opposed to a 10.0. Think again about the CHE. I feel that use of a heat mat plus ambient temps that are comfortable for a human (which means it could get down in the mid 60s in winter) is adequate. Too much heat in that enclosure will cook your gecko. I'll let Elizabeth chime in here eventually about supplements.

    Aliza

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    I’ll be looking to ditch the ceramic heat emitter asap. Just trying to decide between deep heat projector or UTH.
    I also thought the current UVB bulb I have would make sense because it’s on top of a stock exp terra mesh lid. The easiest way for me to go would be the 17x11 UTH on the hot side, I’m just very intrigued by the deep heat projectors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Isaac27 View Post
    I’ll be looking to ditch the ceramic heat emitter asap. Just trying to decide between deep heat projector or UTH.
    I also thought the current UVB bulb I have would make sense because it’s on top of a stock exp terra mesh lid. The easiest way for me to go would be the 17x11 UTH on the hot side, I’m just very intrigued by the deep heat projectors.
    A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited! What an AWESOME upgrade!!!

    Should I immediately stop with the d3? I have calcium with and without d3, and herptivite multivitamin on hand.
    How often are you currently dusting? Light dustings or heavy dustings? With which supplements each time?

    IF you're using the tube fluorescent that came with Zilla's fixture I'd switch it out for Zoo Med's Reptisun tube instead. Zilla's fluorescents don't produce reliable amounts of UVB. Probably a 5.0 Reptisun. Even though mesh screens reduce UVB transmission up to 50%, leos only require low level UVB because they are shade dwellers.

    For your Exo Terra 36 x 18 x 12 inches high I recommend two 11 x 17 inch Ultratherms to cover 1/2 the floor. An alternative is heat cables.

    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 06-29-2019 at 05:02 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Well I haven’t had much luck with dusting. Before uvb I tried to dust with repashy cal plus, she didn’t seem to like that. I now have herptivite multivitamin and calcium with and without d3 as options but she hasn’t been eating much the last week. She was tweezer fed and I think feeding her is stressing her out. I usually end up moving her hot hide, which sucks... I basically have to hold food in front of one of her hides with tweezers. She initially ate well in new tank, I switched her from mealworms to gut loaded crickets. I then Fed her an enormous hornworm which she ate. She’s barely had anything since. It’s been about a week. She appears to be healthy. Fat tail, active when she needs to be if that makes any sense. I’ve invested a lot of money into setting her up and I’m committed to doing it right. Is the consensus half the floor space heated now as opposed to 1/3 of the tank? I appreciate the feedback for what I’m sure are questions that have been asked before. I understand ultratherm are the most recommended. No matter what heat source I go with it will have a stat. Any opinions on deep heat projectors? Was anyone able to view my set up?
    Last edited by Isaac27; 06-28-2019 at 05:11 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Isaac27 View Post
    Well I haven’t had much luck with dusting. Before uvb I tried to dust with repashy cal plus, she didn’t seem to like that. I now have herptivite multivitamin and calcium with and without d3 as options but she hasn’t been eating much the last week. She was tweezer fed and I think feeding her is stressing her out. I usually end up moving her hot hide, which sucks... I basically have to hold food in front of one of her hides with tweezers. She initially ate well in new tank, I switched her from mealworms to gut loaded crickets. I then Fed her an eenormous hornworm which she ate. She’s barely had anything since. It’s been about a week. She appears to be healthy. Fat tail, active when she needs to be if that makes any sense. I’ve invested a lot of money into setting her up and I’m committed to doing it right. Is the consensus half the floor space heated now as opposed to 1/3 of the tank? I appreciate the feedback for what I’m sure are questions that have been asked before. I understand ultratherm are the most recommended. No matter what heat source I go with it will have a stat. Any opinions on deep heat projectors? Was anyone able to view my set up?
    Please share a video of your leo walking around. I am checking for any signs of MBD. If all is good, then I'll share a supplement schedule for her.

    How about using a clear glass feeding dish for your leo's crickets? Just amputate the back jumper legs right below the "knees". That keeps crickets in an 8 ounce bowl. Bowl feeding gives leos more eating independence than tweezers do.

    I have not checked out deep heat projectors. Do you see benefits over UTHs or just a different approach?

    1. I can see your setup. It looks nice! Your leo's hides are secure!
    2. Be sure to keep her warm dry hide and her moist hide both on top of the heat mat.
    3. Keep UVB over the warm end. Warmth + UVB go hand in hand.
    4. Will you be replacing your Zilla tube with a Zoo Med's ReptiSun tube?
    5. Even when your leo is hanging out a leg, tail, or other body part from underneath a hide to absorb UVB, Fran Baines, DVM recommends a backup dose of a calcium + D3 supplement @ 1 feeding per month.
    6. The reason I recommend covering 1/2 the floor with an UTH is that temps drop off quickly as soon as the leo moves off the UTH. With 1/2 floor coverage that leaves a "cool side" of about 1/2. I think that's more than adequate.
    7. What dry diet and other things are you feeding the crickets and the mealworms?
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 06-29-2019 at 05:29 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    She doesn’t have MBD. She moves around well and has an upright posture. I feed the crickets fresh veggies at the moment... had to discard the high protein diet for them as it was expired. She’s gone through a lot of changes. She went from a CHE on constantly with a day bulb, to her temps monitored by a thermostat, and now uvb. She went from an 18x12 to a 36x18x12. Her substrate changed from carpet to tile. Too much too quick? She has only eaten 1 cricket in the past week, I’m getting worried, and honestly a little frustrated.

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    I don't know anything about deep heat projectors, but your mention has intrigued me. My sense is that it was developed in the UK and is newly available in the US. I've contacted several people at Arcadia about doing an article for Gecko Time (www.geckotime.com/archives). Hopefully I will succeed.

    Aliza
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

  10. #10
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    Her eating has slowed down a bit but I’m guessing that has to do with a lot of the changes she has experienced with me getting her a more adequate set up.
    Should I immediately stop with the d3? I have calcium with and without d3, and herptivite multivitamin on hand.
    Are you swapping out the "desert" UVB tube that came with the fixture? Those tubes don't provide sufficient UVB at all. You could get a SolarMeter to check the UVB strength, but they cost over $200. I've recommended an excellent UVB source. Just not any UVB tube produces adequate UVB. (Really!)

    Observe your leo. Does he stick out a leg, tail, or some body part to absorb UVB at some point during the day?

    Even with adequate UVB, Fran Baines, DVM, strongly recommends a backup dose of powdered D3 @ 1 feeding per month.

    Until you get your UVB source corrected, stick with Schedule 126. I would substitute Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins without D3 instead of Herptivite.

    Weekly Schedule 126 for Leopard Geckos 18 months old +
    (without UVB)

    • Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
    • Crickets or dubia >> Thursday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
    • Mealworms >> Saturday - no dusting
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 06-30-2019 at 02:33 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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