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    Default Thermostat Decisions


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    Hey guys, I'm in the process of giving Sophie, my 3 yo leo, a tank upgrade. I've gotten her a larger tank with front opening doors (I think the base is 36x18 inches but it's currently at my other house). She's about 10 inches from nose to tail and hovers around 95-100 grams! Since I got a new tank, I figure I'll also need a new heating pad, and since the tank is so much shorter than her old one, the lights will probably need to be swapped for some less intense ones. TLDR I'm in a position to upgrade a little, but I'm not rich so I need to prioritize a bit!
    Right now, her heating setup is as follows: her substrate is repticarpet. I made sure the belly temps formed a nice gradient using a thermometer gun thingy, adding paper towels under the carpet as a buffer from the heat. Right now the hottest point on the warm side is 91, and her cold side gets down to about 75. Her heat lamp makes the air on the warm side around 79 and helps make the heat gradient more even. I usually check temps whenever I feed her.
    So, I was thinking it might be nice to get a thermostat, just for some peace of mind. Am I correct in assuming it would be wiser to get a thermostat for her belly, rather than for the heat lamp? Should I consider making her warm side or the whole tank have a tile floor if I'm using a thermostat (she doesn't really have an issue with getting her teeth stuck in the carpet or anything)?
    Also, in her new home, she's going to be getting a bit more sunlight than before. Not a ton of direct sun or anything, just a decent amount as there will be windows on both sides of the room. So far I have been using D3 once a week. I assume I should continue to do so?
    Thanks guys, sorry, I know that's a lot of questions!

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    I use this and it keeps the tempature perfectly in range. https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-Ger...48817996&psc=1

    also you do want to hook the thermostat up to your heat mat as the heat mat should be your main heating device. hope this helped
    Last edited by Geecko123; 07-22-2019 at 04:03 PM.
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  3. #3
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    heat mat + thermostat for the win! you dont need the light. UVB is debatable.
    Geopard Leckos Leopard Geckos, say that 10 times fast!

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    For your new heat pads check out post 23 on this thread. It shows how Fanatic located 2 Ultratherm 11 x 17 inch heat mats side-by-side for his leo's 36 x 18 inch home. Then he covered them with reflectix.



    You would need a 2nd thermostat to control a Ceramic Heat Emiitter because both thermostats would be set differently.

    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
    • Warm end ground temperature: 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) inside a leo's warm dry hide and his moist hide too!
    • Cool end ground temperature: 70ish-75 F (21.1-23.9 C) Usually the cool end ground temperature matches the room temperature where the enclosure sits.
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

    Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. If you wish, during the night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).

    Here a good weekly schedule for 3 yo Sophie.

    Weekly Schedule 126 for Leopard Geckos 18 months old +
    (without UVB)

    • Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
    • Crickets or dubia >> Thursday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
    • Mealworms >> Saturday - no dusting
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 07-23-2019 at 05:29 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Geopard Lecko View Post
    heat mat + thermostat for the win! you dont need the light. UVB is debatable.
    The most recent research (Dr. Fran Baines) and other sources now say that Leopard Geckos actually do benefit from some UVB exposure. One can get by just with just supplementing D3 too, but apparently Geckos have been shown to do better with UVB exposure. In my own opinion, I'd say the topic is less debatable than it used to be... Is UVB essential? Likely not but I would say, based on my own looking into it, that it can be beneficial for them.
    Last edited by Marillion; 07-23-2019 at 12:36 PM.
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    Thanks for the replies, guys! For the current upgrade, I'm just going to focus on the thermostat and tank, and then maybe later on I'll add UVB after doing some more research. I don't want to change too many things all at once. As far as the vitamins go, I have been using Rephasy's Calcium Plus, which says on the bottle that it's all-in-one, as far as calcium, D3, and vitamins go. Is that correct? I feed her 2-3 times a week, and dust once a week. She won't eat mealworms anymore (I guess she decided they were boring, lol), so she gets about equal amounts of crickets and dubias, which she LOVES, all gutloaded with carrots and Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload stuff. I'm pretty new to this, so hopefully that's all pretty good nutritionally!
    I went ahead and ordered that Hydrofarm thermostat, and I'll pick up two heat mats in the next few days.
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    You are so lucky yours doesn't want to even eat mealworms. These days I really have to coax mine to eat crickets! But mealworms...he'll eat those anytime!

    All the best with your leo. Keep us posted.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukef View Post
    Thanks for the replies, guys! For the current upgrade, I'm just going to focus on the thermostat and tank, and then maybe later on I'll add UVB after doing some more research. I don't want to change too many things all at once. As far as the vitamins go, I have been using Rephasy's Calcium Plus, which says on the bottle that it's all-in-one, as far as calcium, D3, and vitamins go. Is that correct? I feed her 2-3 times a week, and dust once a week. She won't eat mealworms anymore (I guess she decided they were boring, lol), so she gets about equal amounts of crickets and dubias, which she LOVES, all gutloaded with carrots and Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload stuff. I'm pretty new to this, so hopefully that's all pretty good nutritionally!
    I went ahead and ordered that Hydrofarm thermostat, and I'll pick up two heat mats in the next few days.
    This sounds good for Sophie!

    GU's acpart (Aliza) uses Repashy's Calcium Plus for her leos and has for years. Here's how she's been dosing it.

    Repashy's Calcium Plus (all-in-one) multivitamins
    (without UVB)

    1. Feeding & Supplementing HATCHLING leopard geckos - 0-2 months old & any slow-growing leopard geckos under ~6 grams ~ Feed 3x per week.
    • Feed Tuesdays, Thursdays, & Saturdays
    • Dust prey with Repashy's Calcium Plus at every other feeding
    • ALSO: Keep a bottle cap of plain calcium in the cage 24/7.
    • [See dusting chart below]

    2. Feeding & Supplementing JUVENILE leopard geckos ~ Feed 3x per week.
    • Feed Tuesdays, Thursdays, & Saturdays
    • Dust prey with Repashy's Calcium Plus at every other feeding
    • [See dusting chart below]

    3. Feeding & Supplementing ADULT leopard geckos ~ Feed 2x per week.
    • Mondays ~ feed (no dusting)
    • Thursdays ~ feed & dust prey with Repashy's Calcium Plus (all in one) multivitamins

    For link 144 click: Repashy's Calcium Plus (all-in-one) multivitamin Schedules for Leopard Geckos -- February 2019 update
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 07-24-2019 at 04:53 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks lukef thanked for this post

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    Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload dry diet is an excellent way to cover basic nutritional needs that are nearly impossible to cover with veggies alone.

    Here's a reputable post which shares great foods to add to that dry diet.

    #6---Gutload Ingredients for Bugs & Worms......thanks to Olimpia -- August 2013
    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here is a list of great ingredients to use:
    Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion flowers & leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks lukef thanked for this post

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    Great, thanks so much! I'll try adding some variety in the veggies I give her feeders. I probably should add some variety in the veggies I give myself anyways, lol!
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