Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Need advice/ help first time leopard gecko parent.


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    Hi guys, I'm very new to this so I hope you will be patient with me I'm not even sure if I'm on the correct forum but, I need some advice.

    I got my very first leopard gecko two months ago. She is a couple months old. I currently use paper towel as a substrate. I will probably get a better kind in future. Her warm side is 94 degrees Fahrenheit and her cold is kept at 76 degrees. I give her, her calcium and vitamins with her food every day ( not mixed) and from the moment I got her she eats very well. I give her crickets and mealworms small ones because I don't want to give her big ones just yet.

    But, I have a couple questions because I can't seem to find an answer anywhere about any of these things I'm incountering and I'm not sure what to do. I'm a very nervous reptile parent sense this is my first one and I want to do right by her.

    But the first thing I have is today when she went poop after a couple days time. (Normally she pretty consistent). But, the poop was pretty big and it and the white pee part where covered in a brownish mucus which is making me extremly nervous. It looks very slimy which she has never had before.

    The other thing is she sleeps like alot and she never leaves her warm hide even for shedding unless she sees me with food or when I'm asleep. The thing that makes me nervous is she never uses her moist hide for shedding. And I might have done a bad thing with this but I decided this time around to just put a tiny bit of moist moss in the warm hide to help her. I'm not sure if somehow the tank is still cold or what because I have a temp gun and it says the same thing as the thermometers and the thermostat.but any advice would be great. She also knows the moist hide exists she just doesn't use it.

    The final thing I had a question about is she doesn't quite trust me yet I have been putting my hand in there for her to smell and sometimes she will crawl across it but recently I think I might have wrecked all of the trust I was building up for a bit because I accidentally scared her when cleaning her tank and accidently got some water on her. Now she won't really come near me unless foods involved. I am wondering how I can help her with any stuck shed or any other problems or even taking her to the vet when she's scared of me right now. Because I don't know how long it will take to rebuild the trust. And I need to take her for her first vet checkup soon.

    Any thoughts on any of this would be greatly appreciated ill even take non related advice. Thank you so much.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    20,903
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    78 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited! Leos are crepuscular. That means they are active at dusk, during the night, and at dawn.

    First some questions.
    1. Which multivitamins and calcium powder are you giving your leo? Please list brand and exact name of supplements.
    2. What size is her enclosure?
    3. What dimensions is her heat mat?
    4. Can you buy a digital thermometer with a probe? A probe does a good job of measuring ground temps.

    Urates range from 1/3 to 1/2 the size of a normal feces. Urates should be pure white.

    Is 94*F the ground temp right on top of the substrate and underneath her warm dry hide? If so, I'd match these temps instead.

    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
    • Warm end ground temperature: 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) inside a leo's warm dry hide and his moist hide too!
    • Cool end ground temperature: 70ish-75 F (21.1-23.9 C) Usually the cool end ground temperature matches the room temperature where the enclosure sits.
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the cool end

    Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. If you wish, during the night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 09-22-2019 at 06:00 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Ok. So I use repti calcium from zoo med with D3 and I use Reptivite from zoo med without D3. She is currently in a ten gallon tank ( I will upgrade when she's older. As for the heat mat size I'll be honest I can't remember exact measurements but I made sure to get one that covers 1/3 of her tank.
    And then I actually have two digital thermometers already I keep the probes underneath the substrate I don't know if that's bad.
    And then 94 is the temperature underneath the substrate but I will definitely check again the temp above it and try to match it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    20,903
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    78 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ladyknight1 View Post
    Ok. So I use repti calcium from zoo med with D3 and I use Reptivite from zoo med without D3. She is currently in a ten gallon tank ( I will upgrade when she's older. As for the heat mat size I'll be honest I can't remember exact measurements but I made sure to get one that covers 1/3 of her tank.
    And then I actually have two digital thermometers already I keep the probes underneath the substrate I don't know if that's bad.
    And then 94 is the temperature underneath the substrate but I will definitely check again the temp above it and try to match it.
    Bits & pieces:
    I got my very first leopard gecko two months ago. She is a couple months old. I currently use paper towel as a substrate. I will probably get a better kind in future. Her warm side is 94 degrees Fahrenheit and her cold is kept at 76 degrees. I give her, her calcium and vitamins with her food every day ( not mixed) and from the moment I got her she eats very well. I give her crickets and mealworms small ones because I don't want to give her big ones just yet.
    Please place 1 digital thermometer probe inside the warm dry hide on top of the substrate before you adjust anything. Temps might be OK there. The reason I keep a probe on top of the substrate underneath my leo's warm dry hide is that I prefer knowing the temps my leo actually feels when she's hanging out there.

    Even "lightly dusting" your leo's food every day is too frequent! Please reduce those dustings to what Schedule 124 recommends. Vitamin D is fat soluble. That means one adequate "dose" per week sticks around in a leo's body all week long! Vitamin D is not flushed out when the gecko pees. Too many vitamins can be harmful. Many GU leos have used Schedule 124. As far as I know all these leos are thriving.

    What diet are you feeding your leo's mealworms?

    Weekly Schedule 124 for Leopard Geckos 0-12 months old
    (withOUT UVB)

    • Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
    • Mealworms >> Tuesday
    • Crickets or dubia >> Wednesday - lightly dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate withOUT D3 (Zoo Med's Repti Calcium or NOW human brand calcium)
    • Crickets or dubia >> Thursday
    • Crickets or dubia >> Friday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3
    • Mealworms >> Saturday
    • No food or free choice >> Sunday
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 09-22-2019 at 08:35 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Ok. Thank you very, very much!. I hope its not to late to fix. When I was doing my studying before I got her I kept reading the food needed to be lightly dusted every day so I will definitely cut down. Thank very much.
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    20,903
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    78 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ladyknight1 View Post
    Ok. Thank you very, very much!. I hope its not to late to fix. When I was doing my studying before I got her I kept reading the food needed to be lightly dusted every day so I will definitely cut down. Thank very much.
    You ARE welcome. I don't think it's too late.

    The vitamin D3 she gets @ 1 feeding per week helps metabolize calcium all week long.

    The problem is that supplements stick better to crickets than they do to mealworms.

    I was editing while you typed, so I'm not sure whether you saw this: What do you feed the mealworms? What substrate are they on?
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 09-22-2019 at 09:14 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Likes Marillion liked this post

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Tennessee USA
    Posts
    462
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)

    Default


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    on your final question, "how long will it take to rebuild the trust?" it all depends on the gecko and how consistent you are at working with her. some geckos might never be comfortable, some might take years, and some might just not care. hope this helped

User Tag List

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •