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Thread: Please Help

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    Default Please Help


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    Hello all. So we just brought home a Juvi leopard gecko and im concerned. The person we went shopping for terrarium needs has a bearded and was more then willing to help us find what we needed. Since getting home and setting up the tank I have been reading more. Here are some concerns that I have please let me know if I need to change these things or if they are okay.

    *The first concern is that we have a 30 gal tank with no heating pad or heat emitters being used. The tank at night only gets to about 75 degrees and during the day doesnt go past 90 degrees. The humidty has not gone under 40. Is this okay? Do we still need a heating pad? How do I set it up? Do we need a temp gun? and a plug in thermostat thing?

    *Reptile Carpet? Good or Need to be changed?

    *The temp and humidity are a gauge? Good or need to be changed?

    *30 gal tank and have a ceramic heat emitter not being used.

    *Do you have to have calcium poweder in the tank??

    * How much do we need to feed it and how often? What do we need to feed it? I have read many different things and this being our first reptile I want to do whats right.

    107009588_204217640853624_6621568325343256795_n.jpg

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    Welcome to Geckos Unlimited, scooterthegecko!

    *The first concern is that we have a 30 gal tank with no heating pad or heat emitters being used. The tank at night only gets to about 75 degrees and during the day doesnt go past 90 degrees. The humidty has not gone under 40. Is this okay? Do we still need a heating pad? How do I set it up? Do we need a temp gun? and a plug in thermostat thing?
    See whether you can return products that don't meet Scooter's needs. Leos are common pets. Pet store employees should be able to share good advice with customers.

    What does your 30 gallon tank measure: length x width x height?

    Are you measuring ground temperatures? May I ask where you live that it's 90* inside with no heat mat? You will probably need a heat mat when the temps cool down + a thermostat (Hydrofarm Jump Start thermostat is what I have). I have heard i-Power thermostats are "good" too. 40-60% is a good humidity range.

    Belly heat is recommended for leopard geckos, so it is easy for them to digest their prey. I recommend Ultratherm heat mats. Those are the best and will normally last for years! Ultratherms are reusable, whereas the heat mats with adhesive aren't reusable.

    Stick the heat pad to the glass underneath the enclosure with Nashua electrical tape. Scoot the heat pad to one end of the enclosure. Be sure the heat pad covers 1/3 - 1/2 the floor's area. Especially if your tank is "tall", I recommend covering 1/2 the enclosure with the heat mat.

    Scroll down on this message to the temp chart I shared. I recommend a digital thermometer with a probe rather than a temp gun!


    *Reptile Carpet? Good or Need to be changed?
    Leopard geckos get their toes and teeth stuck in reptile carpet. Textured ceramic tile or shelf liner (no adhesive backing) will be much better than reptile carpet. Slate is ideal.


    *The temp and humidity are a gauge? Good or need to be changed?
    Circle gauges only give "ballpark" readings. It does not meet your leo's needs. I recommend Zoo Med's yellow digital thermometer with a probe for about $10.


    *30 gal tank and have a ceramic heat emitter not being used.
    It's far better to use a heat mat to provide belly heat for your new pet.


    *Do you have to have calcium poweder in the tank??
    I don't suggest keeping plain calcium (or any other supplement) in the enclosure 24/7. The only exception would be in the mealworm container, because supplements don't stick well to mealworms.


    *How much do we need to feed it and how often? What do we need to feed it? I have read many different things and this being our first reptile I want to do whats right.
    • Feed a 0-12 month old leo daily all he will eat in about 15 minutes.
    • A leo needs live food.
    • Crickets, Blaptica dubia roaches, and mealworms are common feeders.
    • The feeders need a good dry diet too. A leo is what he eats!

    Aliza (GU's acpart) uses this already ground dry diet from "Professional Reptiles" for her insect and worm food as well as for her mealworm/superworm bedding. Don't use Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Food!


    107009588_204217640853624_6621568325343256795_n.jpg

    * A leo needs 3 hides/(caves):
    • warm dry
    • warm moist also on the warm end
    • cool dry

    Here's a homemade moist hide that works well! Cut the entry hole several inches above ground. That helps keep the substrate contained. Fill it with sphagnum moss or Eco Earth's coco fiber. Keep the moist hide's substrate damp, but NOT soggy.

    Are you meeting these ground temperatures as taken with the probe of a digital thermometer? Please read carefully.
    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C).

    Place the thermostat's probe and a digital thermometer's probe together right on top of the substrate underneath the warm dry hide. If you use a UTH + a CHE you'll need 2 separate thermostats, because ground and air temperatures are substantially different.

    • Warm dry hide ground temperature: 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) inside a leo's warm dry hide.
    • Warm humid/moist hide: Also place the humid hide 100% on top of the heat mat. Keep temperatures similar to the warm dry hide.
    • Cool dry hide ground temperature: 70ish-75 F (21.1-23.9 C) Usually the cool end ground temperature matches the room temperature where the enclosure sits.
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the cool end

    Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. If you wish, during the night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).
    Here's an excellent supplement schedule for Scooter.
    Weekly Schedule 124 for Leopard Geckos 0-12 months old
    (withOUT UVB)
    Early stage metabolic bone disease (MBD) symptoms include uneven (lopsided) gait, walking on one or both "elbows", bowed limbs, belly dragging, and an underbite.
    The Reptile Supply Company based in Lodi, California stocks Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3.
    Feed lightly dusted prey 3x per week.

    • Monday > > crickets or dubia lightly dusted with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
    • Tuesday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
    • Wednesday > > crickets or dubia lightly dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate withOUT D3 (Zoo Med's Repti Calcium or NOW human brand calcium)
    • Thursday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
    • Friday > > crickets or dubia lightly dusted with Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3
    • Saturday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
    • Sunday > > no food or free choice > > no dusting
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 07-05-2020 at 10:19 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    I am a new gecko mom but done alot of research so ur subtract is fine and yes it is very important to pursue a heating pad and much stay 80 hot it helps them digest food better and humid 45 to 50 I hope this helps

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