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    Hello, I am a first time leo owner. I adopted my leo 3 weeks ago today I'm not sure of the gender but it has been named Gus for the time being. After doing more and more research, I feel that I get more confused. Some young leos have slimmer tails, like Gus. Is this the stick tail I've read about, or could this just be Gus' tail right now, at a young age? Also, I've been stressing about the humidity. I cant seem to get it to lower. Its around 60% right now. It has been rainy this week, but I dont want Gus to get sick. How can I remove some of the humidity, without dropping the temps? Another question...in your opinion, what morph would you say Gus is? There are lavender patches, but looks like a mack snow with the irregular pattern (cant remember that term). I think I have other questions, but I cant remember. I'm sure it will come to me...thank you in advance for the advice!

    Screenshot_20210112-140227_Gallery.jpg
    Last edited by Misskyleigh; 01-23-2021 at 07:35 PM.

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    Congrats on your gecko. Yes, Gus is a Mack snow jungle (broken tail and body bands). I don't think this is stick tail, but the tail does look a little thin for body size, and in the picture it actually looks a little shrunken, like it was bigger and then lost some width. Where did you get him? Has he been eating and pooping?
    I never worry about humidity. As long as we're not actually misting the cage, I think whatever the ambient humidity is will be OK.

    Aliza
    Last edited by acpart; 01-23-2021 at 08:24 PM.

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    Welcome to Geckos Unlimited!

    I, too, doubt that's "stick tail".

    40-60% ambient humidity is ideal for leopard geckos. A sock filled with rice lowers excessive humidity. Sometimes it's difficult to keep humidity more than that in the warm humid hide. Is your humid hide on the warm end of the enclosure?

    Please share a pic of Gus's enclosure.

    Gus needs to be about 6 months old before you can reliably sex him.

    Sexing Leopard Geckos -- A leopard gecko's gender can be confirmed when that leo is over 5 inches in total length. That may happen when the leo is near 6 months old. Males can be distinguished from females by a distinct /\-shaped row of pores above the vent and by two hemipenal bulges below the vent. To see their vents, potential male pores, and hemipenal bulges gently press their bodies up against the glass. They'll squirm if you try to turn them over.
    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun. Set your thermostat at 91*F/32.8*C.

    Tape the thermostat's probe and a digital thermometer's probe together, but offset a little. Place them right on top of the substrate underneath the warm dry hide. If you use a UTH + a CHE you'll need 2 separate thermostats, because ground and air temperatures are substantially different.

    • Warm dry hide ground temperature: 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) inside a leo's warm dry hide.
    • Warm humid/moist hide: Place the humid hide 100% on top of the heat mat. Keep temperatures similar to the warm dry hide.
    • Cool dry hide ground temperature: 70ish-75 F (21.1-23.9 C) Usually the cool end ground temperature matches the room temperature where the enclosure sits.
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) surface temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) surface temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the cool end

    Leave your heat mat on 24/7 IF ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C). If NOT, during the night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off)
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 01-24-2021 at 05:44 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Thank you both for the quick replies! Very helpful information! I got him from an exotic pet store, with good ratings. His tail, if anything, has got a little bigger since I got him. Its not much bigger though. Hes been pooping, and it seems normal based off the online pictures I have seen. He did have green runny poop once, two days ago and not since. I'm keeping an eye on that. He mostly eats live crickets, with some live wax worms every 3-4 days (only now to help him gain weight, then will cut back). He WILL NOT eat the freeze dried mealworms, so I'm going to also try live meal worms. I just got him a blend of small flies and other insects, which I put in his bowl. Not sure if he ate any yet. Gus' food is almost always dusted with Calcium that has a D3 and other multivitamins. He's starting to come out of his hides for my hand, but hasnt walked up to me unless my hand is outside the tank. Heres a picture of his tank. Any suggestions on what I could improve? And another cute pic of my Gus 20210124_071710.jpg20210124_072407.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Misskyleigh View Post
    Thank you both for the quick replies! Very helpful information! I got him from an exotic pet store, with good ratings. His tail, if anything, has got a little bigger since I got him. Its not much bigger though. Hes been pooping, and it seems normal based off the online pictures I have seen. He did have green runny poop once, two days ago and not since. I'm keeping an eye on that. He mostly eats live crickets, with some live wax worms every 3-4 days (only now to help him gain weight, then will cut back). He WILL NOT eat the freeze dried mealworms, so I'm going to also try live meal worms. I just got him a blend of small flies and other insects, which I put in his bowl. Not sure if he ate any yet. Gus' food is almost always dusted with Calcium that has a D3 and other multivitamins. He's starting to come out of his hides for my hand, but hasnt walked up to me unless my hand is outside the tank. Heres a picture of his tank. Any suggestions on what I could improve? And another cute pic of my Gus 20210124_071710.jpg20210124_072407.jpg
    You're welcome.

    Is your photo of Gus an earlier photo than the first photo you shared? Please feed Gus 3x per week -- all he can eat in about 15 minutes!

    There are a huge amount of details when setting up for a leo.
    1. What is the brand & exact name of Gus's multivitamins?
    2. What are the temps in various locations in his 10 gallon?
    3. Can you get a 20 long: 30 x 12 x 12 inches tall for him soon? Then it will be easy to set up a thermal gradient from warm to cool. PetCo frequently has $-per-gallon sales. For a 20 long I highly recommend Ultratherm's 11 x 17 inch heat mat. Reptile Basics & the Reptile Supply Co based in Lodi, California sell those for $22.
    4. I recommend getting Zoo Med's yellow digital thermometer with a probe. Many pet stores carry these for less than $10.


    ONLY feed Gus live insects, that you've personally fed a good diet. Wax worms can be addicting. A vet who has not been on GU for several years, only recommends a couple wax worms per month. He said that wax worms are a good vitamin C source.

    Aliza (GU's acpart) uses this already ground dry diet from "Professional Reptiles" for her mealworm/superworm bedding as well as for her insect and worm food.



    Gutload Ingredients for Bugs & Worms . . . . . . thanks to Olimpia -- August 2013

    "A commercial gut loading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas.

    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here is a list of great ingredients to use:
    Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion flowers & leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 01-24-2021 at 04:53 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Wow, thank you for all of that information! I read so much contradictory information on the internet.

    Ive read at such a young age its very imprtant to feed every day, but i've noticed he is not eating all of the crickets I give. After 15 minutes, should I remove the surviving crickets/insects? The calcium i dust with is "Repashy's superfoods with vitamin and calcium supplement". Is that good to use?
    On the far right (under the heat lamp), I have a temperature probe under the rock. It measures about 88-93 degrees. Stays dry. The middle is the humid hide, not sure of exact temp. The left side is the cool side, which stays around 70 degrees. I plan to upgrade to a 20gal in the next month or so.

    I hope to help Gus gain a good healthy weight, I hate seeing a skinny tail. I want him to be plump and healthy. I will try the gut load mix for the crickets, as I was just giving carrots before.
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

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    Quote Originally Posted by Misskyleigh View Post
    Wow, thank you for all of that information! I read so much contradictory information on the internet.

    Ive read at such a young age its very imprtant to feed every day, but i've noticed he is not eating all of the crickets I give. After 15 minutes, should I remove the surviving crickets/insects? The calcium i dust with is "Repashy's superfoods with vitamin and calcium supplement". Is that good to use?
    On the far right (under the heat lamp), I have a temperature probe under the rock. It measures about 88-93 degrees. Stays dry. The middle is the humid hide, not sure of exact temp. The left side is the cool side, which stays around 70 degrees. I plan to upgrade to a 20gal in the next month or so.

    I hope to help Gus gain a good healthy weight, I hate seeing a skinny tail. I want him to be plump and healthy. I will try the gut load mix for the crickets, as I was just giving carrots before.
    You're welcome! Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload is a well-balanced dry diet.

    A 20 long = 30 x 12 x 12? If so, go with an 11 x 17 inch Ultratherm heat pad. Reptile Basics & the Reptile Supply Co based in Lodi, California offer them for $22.

    Thanks for sharing the temps. You may wish to feed other fresh veggies -- the ones shown on Olimpia's lists.

    Do you know about how old Gus is? If Gus will eat daily, go with that! Don't dust at every feeding. Follow the chart below for juvenile leos.

    I'm a little worried about his tail. After he eats all he will in 15 minutes, please toss the extra crickets just in case Gus is not totally healthy.

    GU's acpart (Aliza) uses those Repashy's all-in-one multivitamins all the time. Here's Schedule 144 -- the schedule Aliza created.

    Repashy's Calcium Plus (all-in-one multivitamins)
    (withOUT UVB)
    Metabolic bone disease (MBD) symptoms include uneven (lopsided) gait, walking on one or both "elbows", bowed limbs, belly dragging, and an underbite. Difficulty chewing should be closely monitored.
    1. Feeding & Supplementing HATCHLING leopard geckos - 0-2 months old & any slow-growing leopard geckos under ~6 grams ~ Feed 3x per week.
    • Feed Tuesdays, Thursdays, & Saturdays
    • Dust prey with Repashy's Calcium Plus (all-in-one) multivitamins at every other feeding
    • ALSO: Keep a bottle cap of plain calcium in the cage 24/7.
    • [See dusting chart below]

    2. Feeding & Supplementing JUVENILE leopard geckos ~ Feed 3x per week.
    • Feed Tuesdays, Thursdays, & Saturdays
    • Dust prey with Repashy's Calcium Plus (all-in-one) multivitamins at every other feeding
    • [See dusting chart below]

    3. Feeding & Supplementing ADULT leopard geckos ~ Feed 2x per week.
    • Mondays ~ feed (no dusting)
    • Thursdays ~ feed & dust prey with Repashy's Calcium Plus (all-in-one) multivitamins


    \/ \/ \/


    R = Repashy's Calcium Plus, Cc = pure precipitated calcium carbonate (withOUT vitamin D3)

    Week 1 Repashy dusting (for HATCHLINGS & JUVENILES):
    M-------T-------W------Th-------F-------Sat-------Sun
    ............R..................................... ......R...................

    Week 2 Repashy dusting (for HATCHLINGS & JUVENILES):
    M-------T-------W------Th-------F-------Sat-------Sun
    ..................................R............... ...........................


    -----> For hatchlings 0-2 months old & any slow-growing leopard geckos under ~6 grams: Aliza also places a bottle cap of pure precipitated calcium carbonate (withOUT vitamin D3) in the cage 24/7.


    For link 144 click: Repashy's Calcium Plus (all-in-one) multivitamin Schedules for Leopard Geckos -- December 2020 (update)
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 01-26-2021 at 12:56 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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