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    Default Intro and quick heating question.


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    Hi, I'm Michele and in the process of preparing to get a leopard gecko.

    Just purchased a ZooMed 30x12x16 enclosure (25 gal) and a ZooMed UTH for a 30-40 gal terrarium. Other items (like digital heat mat thermometer, thermometer gun, hides, vitamin supplement, calcium D3 supplement, etc.) are enroute.

    I want everything fully set up and holding proper heat and humidity before I really start looking for my gecko.

    I think I may have made a rookie mistake though. I got the ZooMed UTH, but I've been reading more and suspect it may not supply sufficient heat. I'll know more after the thermometer's arrive.

    As a back up, I have a BN-LINK UTH (8x12) on the way and a ceramic heat bulb set up (100w black ceramic bulb and simple clamp lamp) also on the way.

    My plan (once I get to a Lowe's and get pieces cut to the right size) is to use ceramic tile as the substrate.

    My QUESTION (yes, I really do have home, just wanted to provide the basic info first), is: Working an assumption that the ZooMed UTH will not provide sufficient heat with the ceramic tile, what would be my best alternative:

    A. Keep ZooMed UTH and add the ceramic heat lamp (both attached to thermometer?)?
    B. Remove ZooMed UTH (which, I know, kills it and it will need to be tossed) and use the BN-LINK UTH? (With or without the heat lamp?)
    C. Keep ZooMed UTH (with or without heat lamp) and use something else as the substrate?

    Oh! And Question Addendum: The ZooMed UTH specifically states on the packaging NOT to use tile. IS there a reason? And, again, what would be a good option, since it also says NOT to use paper towels and I want something easy to clean, etc. at least while I get accustomed to the gecko and vice versa. Maybe down the road an eco set up might happen, but not yet.

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    Ideally, the ZooMed will be fine and it isOK to use it with tile. I recommend you set it up without the thermostat, give it a few days to stabilize (I know it may say 6 hours, but I've found that it really takes a few days) and measure the temperature with either a temp gun or a digital thermometer with probe. I suspect that the temps will be adequate. If they are over the low 90s, use the thermostat. I've done fine with ZooMed thermostats, though I'm finding that after about 15 years (!) they are starting to fail.

    Aliza
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    Quote Originally Posted by MicheleVicchitto :
    Elizabeth, a question about the lighting/heating. You list two light fixtures, but only the ceramic heat emitter bulb. Are you using two of them?

    I'm supposed to be picking up my gecko tonight. My set up is a ZooMed 25 gallon (30 x 12 x 16H). I have the Zoo Med UTH for a 30-40 gallon, ceramic tile flooring, and a 100 W. ceramic heat emitter (100 W). During the day, the enclosure is good. But at night, the ambient room temp drops to around 63 (I'm in my 50s - hot flashes -- and my husband deals with migraines = cooler temps are better). I'm going to be keeping the heat mat on 24/7, but I'm wondering if I should use 2 heat emitters and keep one on all night?

    "Have you decided upon a thermostat yet? I've used Hydrofarm's Jump Start thermostat + a digital thermometer with a probe to verify the thermostat. Jump Start thermostats are real work horses. i-power thermostats are good too.

    As long as your enclosure room temps remain in the mid 60s*F during the night, I recommend turning off any heating at night. Your leo will be fine.

    Generally you won't need 2 heat sources IF your heat mat is adequately sized. A leo really needs both a warm end and a cool end.

    A Zoo Med 30-40 gallon heat mat is inadequate for a 20 long. I highly recommend an Ultratherm 11 x 17 inch heat mat instead. Ultratherms are top notch head mats. Ultratherms CAN be reused. Please let me know whether you need a source for an Ultratherm."
    --------------------------------------------------------------
    OK, so I mis-read that originally.

    1. The Zoo-Med is inadequate alone. What about with the ceramic heat emitter?

    2. Would the Zoo-Med UTH be sufficient over night?

    3. I also have a BN-LINK UTH (8x12 inch). Would that be a better choice?

    4. I found an iPower 8x18 inch UTH on Amazon. Would that be a better choice entirely? You mentioned UltraTherm, but I cannot locate that brand anywhere.

    5.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MicheleVicchitto View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by MicheleVicchitto :
    Elizabeth, a question about the lighting/heating. You list two light fixtures, but only the ceramic heat emitter bulb. Are you using two of them?

    I'm supposed to be picking up my gecko tonight. My set up is a ZooMed 25 gallon (30 x 12 x 16H). I have the Zoo Med UTH for a 30-40 gallon, ceramic tile flooring, and a 100 W. ceramic heat emitter (100 W). During the day, the enclosure is good. But at night, the ambient room temp drops to around 63 (I'm in my 50s - hot flashes -- and my husband deals with migraines = cooler temps are better). I'm going to be keeping the heat mat on 24/7, but I'm wondering if I should use 2 heat emitters and keep one on all night?

    "Have you decided upon a thermostat yet? I've used Hydrofarm's Jump Start thermostat + a digital thermometer with a probe to verify the thermostat. Jump Start thermostats are real work horses. i-power thermostats are good too.

    As long as your enclosure room temps remain in the mid 60s*F during the night, I recommend turning off any heating at night. Your leo will be fine.

    Generally you won't need 2 heat sources IF your heat mat is adequately sized. A leo really needs both a warm end and a cool end.

    A Zoo Med 30-40 gallon heat mat is inadequate for a 20 long. I highly recommend an Ultratherm 11 x 17 inch heat mat instead. Ultratherms are top notch head mats. Ultratherms CAN be reused. Please let me know whether you need a source for an Ultratherm."
    --------------------------------------------------------------
    OK, so I mis-read that originally.

    1. The Zoo-Med is inadequate alone. What about with the ceramic heat emitter?

    2. Would the Zoo-Med UTH be sufficient over night?

    3. I also have a BN-LINK UTH (8x12 inch). Would that be a better choice?

    4. I found an iPower 8x18 inch UTH on Amazon. Would that be a better choice entirely? You mentioned UltraTherm, but I cannot locate that brand anywhere.

    5.
    No 8 x 12 inch heat mat WILL be a better heat mat option. Ultratherm is the ONLY option because it covers 11 x 17 inches. Measure the floor of your enclosure. Then ask the exact measurements of the 11 x 17 inch Ultratherms.

    1. The Zoo-Med is inadequate alone. What about with the ceramic heat emitter?
    My CHE = 150 watts. That's my leo's only heat source. I turn off the CHE at night because room temps drop only to about 66*F. I have the 12 inch high 20 long: 30 x 12 x 12. My leo doesn't climb much --- maybe because the air temps are excessively warm.

    2. Would the Zoo-Med UTH be sufficient over night?
    Maybe . . .

    3. I also have a BN-LINK UTH (8x12 inch). Would that be a better choice?

    4. I found an iPower 8x18 inch UTH on Amazon. Would that be a better choice entirely? You mentioned UltraTherm, but I cannot locate that brand anywhere.

    5.
    You'll find that slate really absorbs heat & gives your leo belly heat similar to a heat mat. Amazon carries slate cheese trays IF you're looking for a source.

    Arcadia's Deep Heat Projector may keep your leo toasty at night.

    Light Your Reptiles in the USA for Arcadia's lighting including ShadeDweller lighting & Arcadia's Deep Heat Projectors (50 watts & 80 watts): 207-588-7210 LightYourReptiles@yahoo.com
    & Reptile Basics

    Reptile Basics: (336-308-5767) Also carries Ultratherm 11 x 17 inch heat pads/mats. Still $21.99 each as of April 2022.
    Reptile Basics

    Reptile Supply Company (Lodi, California): 916-226-4089 https://www.reptilesupplyco.com/8-products
    Use e-mail for customer service ---> info@ReptileSupplyCo.com
    [Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3 source
    Ultratherm 11 x 17 heat pads = $23.99 here in April 2022.]
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 04-29-2022 at 02:43 PM.
    Click: Leopard Gecko Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Gekko kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (Phelsuma barbouri) ~ (Lygodactylus kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Elizabeth, a question about the lighting/heating. You list two light fixtures, but only the ceramic heat emitter bulb. Are you using two of them?

    Are the 2 light sources you mention here on Tony Perkins' list?

    Here are some loose ends:

    1. Ultimately a thermostat = a fail-safe device. I've used Hydrofarm's Jump Start thermostat + a digital thermometer with a probe to verify the thermostat. Jump Start thermostats are real work horses. i-power thermostats are good too.

    2. Is your leo's 30 x 12 x 16(H) Zoo Med in a bright enough location to distinguish day from night? IF you need a bit of ambient light, here's what I do. My leo's 30 x 12 x 12(H) sits in a darkish NW corner of my living room.

    To create a photoperiod I connect a 15 watt incandescent bulb to a ~$5 Lutron rheostat/dimmer that's housed inside a 5.5 inch diameter Fluker's dome. I dim this 15 watt bulb to 50% brightness. All Fluker domes now have aluminum-like reflective coatings instead of white paint. I place the Lutron rheostat on a timer: 12 hours ON; 12 hours OFF.

    dimmer.JPG
    (click to enlarge)

    3. Consider going Naturalistic some day. You've got the enclosure height to do that!
    Click: Leopard Gecko Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Gekko kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (Phelsuma barbouri) ~ (Lygodactylus kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    Ultimately, naturalistic will be the goal. But I want to get fully accustomed to my leopard gecko and vice versa first so I know what to watch for as far as any potential problems.
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