[cutiecarwash]

I fist got my leopard gecko about a month ago, and he was fine and healthy. A fat tale, quick reaction speed, and not visible wounds. The lady at Petco said that he had just shed, so he won't eat for a day or two. So we got him home, and took that period of no eating to make sure the Crickets and Meal Worms were full of food.

We have a 10 gallon tank, (since he's young, I'm guessing. About 4-6 inches from tip of nose to end of tail) an under-tank heater, a black light we keep on at all times, and a regular heat lamp that we turn off at night. We also have a little dish of Calcium powder. I mist the tank daily, and keep a dry as well as humid hide in the tank. He has always had Repti-Carpet in his tank, and never any kind of substrate.

But ever since we got him, he's slowly grown skinnier. He then shed and started eating a Meal Worm or two a day. He became very skittish, and spend most daylight curled over the heater along-side his dry hide. His tail is now about 2.5-3mm, and we've had him on a diet of Crickets and Wax Worms(To fatten him up). He ate about 2 Wax Worms a day, and one or two Crickets a day. He now eats 1 Wax Worn if I'm lucky.


Now he hasn't eaten in two days. And I know he isn't molting because when he is, he gets very pale and lethargic. I'm worried for poor Randal, because he looks so malnourished and skinny. Please give me some advice. I spend almost 2+ years studying and reading-up on Leopard Geckos so he would live a long and healthy life.


v

[cricket4u]

Originally Posted by cutiecarwash

I fist got my leopard gecko about a month ago, and he was fine and healthy. A fat tale, quick reaction speed, and not visible wounds. The lady at Petco said that he had just shed, so he won't eat for a day or two. So we got him home, and took that period of no eating to make sure the Crickets and Meal Worms were full of food.

We have a 10 gallon tank, (since he's young, I'm guessing. About 4-6 inches from tip of nose to end of tail) an under-tank heater, a black light we keep on at all times, and a regular heat lamp that we turn off at night. We also have a little dish of Calcium powder. I mist the tank daily, and keep a dry as well as humid hide in the tank. He has always had Repti-Carpet in his tank, and never any kind of substrate.

But ever since we got him, he's slowly grown skinnier. He then shed and started eating a Meal Worm or two a day. He became very skittish, and spend most daylight curled over the heater along-side his dry hide. His tail is now about 2.5-3mm, and we've had him on a diet of Crickets and Wax Worms(To fatten him up). He ate about 2 Wax Worms a day, and one or two Crickets a day. He now eats 1 Wax Worn if I'm lucky.


Now he hasn't eaten in two days. And I know he isn't molting because when he is, he gets very pale and lethargic. I'm worried for poor Randal, because he looks so malnourished and skinny. Please give me some advice. I spend almost 2+ years studying and reading-up on Leopard Geckos so he would live a long and healthy life.


v

I think he needs to be seen by a vet ASAP and a fecal exam needs to be done. He cannot afford to lose the small amount of fat he has left. What is the temperatures in the tank?

Time is not on his side so I would recommend you take a sample to get tested right away.

In the meantime you can read over this caresheet.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...11-update.html

[cutiecarwash]

Originally Posted by cricket4u

I think he needs to be seen by a vet ASAP and a fecal exam needs to be done. He cannot afford to lose the small amount of fat he has left. What is the temperatures in the tank?

Right now with the daylight bulb off, (since it's dark out) the temp. is 76 (F)

[cricket4u]

He will not eat or be able to digest his food if he does not have the proper temperature range in his tank. Do you mean that is the temperature in the whole tank? He should have the heat mat on 24 hours a day. Please read the caresheet I provided.

[cutiecarwash]

No, the heat mat is always on. As is the Blacklight heat lamp. The other lamp we only keep on during the day.

[cricket4u]

Originally Posted by cutiecarwash

I fist got my leopard gecko about a month ago, and he was fine and healthy. A fat tale, quick reaction speed, and not visible wounds. The lady at Petco said that he had just shed, so he won't eat for a day or two. So we got him home, and took that period of no eating to make sure the Crickets and Meal Worms were full of food.

We have a 10 gallon tank, (since he's young, I'm guessing. About 4-6 inches from tip of nose to end of tail) an under-tank heater, a black light we keep on at all times, and a regular heat lamp that we turn off at night. We also have a little dish of Calcium powder. I mist the tank daily, and keep a dry as well as humid hide in the tank. He has always had Repti-Carpet in his tank, and never any kind of substrate.

But ever since we got him, he's slowly grown skinnier. He then shed and started eating a Meal Worm or two a day. He became very skittish, and spend most daylight curled over the heater along-side his dry hide. His tail is now about 2.5-3mm, and we've had him on a diet of Crickets and Wax Worms(To fatten him up). He ate about 2 Wax Worms a day, and one or two Crickets a day. He now eats 1 Wax Worn if I'm lucky.


Now he hasn't eaten in two days. And I know he isn't molting because when he is, he gets very pale and lethargic. I'm worried for poor Randal, because he looks so malnourished and skinny. Please give me some advice. I spend almost 2+ years studying and reading-up on Leopard Geckos so he would live a long and healthy life.


v

Originally Posted by cutiecarwash

No, the heat mat is always on. As is the Blacklight heat lamp. The other lamp we only keep on during the day.

Some black bulbs have been known to cause eye damage in reptiles. Since he is active at night I would recommend to use a moonlight blue bulb instead.
I am all for photoperiods in reptiles, but they must have multiple hiding places and a darker side. Meaning the day bulb should not be super bright and not light up the whole tank. They must have a hide where they can hide completely from the light when prefered. If your temps are as indicated on the caresheet then chances are he has a parasite or infection which need to be evaluated right away. Also waxworms are fatty and unhealthy. Try to offer other insects instead.

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thank you for posting Randal's picture. He is seriously emaciated. His condition is life-threatening. It is very important, if you want to save him, for him to see a reptile vet ASAP! If he has been eating, he has not been digesting his food. Leo's need belly heat in order to digest.

What is the temperature with the overhead light? If it is not between 92-95 F, it is too cool. Dial-type thermometers are often very inaccurate. You need a digital thermometer asap too.

Do not mist your leo! That is stressful for him/her. You should have 2 hides. Fill Randal's moist hide on the warm end of the tank with paper towel strips. It is really difficult to maintain a thermal gradient (hot to cool over the length of the tank) with just a 10 gallon.

My care sheet recommends either a red bulb of adequate wattage (best for viewing) or a ceramic heat emitter. Bright lights stress leos.

What type of calcium powder are you using? He needs two types.

I would feed crickets, Phoenix worms, superworms, or roaches using a shallow feeding dish. A varied diet is best, just like cricket4u says. Waxworms are addictive. They are not a good food source at all.

To keep crickets in a shallow feeding dish, cut off their back legs at the knees.

[AnthonyA]

Randal looks to be an albino to me. They are sensitive to light and don't have the best eyesight. Is it possible that it isn't hunting well because of light? Do you feed while the light is on? Sometimes you have to hand feed them.

[cricket4u]

Originally Posted by AnthonyA

It looks to be an albino to me. They are sensitive to light and don't have the best eyesight. Is it possible that it isn't hunting well because of light? Do you feed while the light is on? Sometimes you have to hand feed them.

Albinos are extra sensitive to light especially for the first few months of their lives. It's very difficult to provide photoperiod using day bulbs in small enclosures without it being too bright; so in your situation it's best to eliminate the day bulb. You can provide a photoperiod by allowing sun to beam in by opening the shades in the room. Of course you DO NOT want to place the tank in front of the window. Their vision is limited in bright light and so you must feed in the dark.

The reason I mentioned moonlight blue is because I have noticed some geckos will not come out when the red bulbs are on or they will stare up at it in a protesting fashion. That is false when they state they can't see red. Leopard geckos have 4 types of cones in their eyes, humans only have 3 and so they can see a larger spectrum. However, not all are bothered by the red bulb, it depends on your gecko. A ceramic heat emitter would be the best option.

Just a reminder as Elizabeth stated his condition is life-threatening and needs to be seen by a vet ASAP.