[Elizabeth Freer]

Originally Posted by Cofinator

ok lol so now my head is really spinning.... the little one has eaten almost every cricket i throw in there for the past two days and seems to be an ok hunter....do they hunt based on movement? and my bigger one doesnt seem to like crickets as much as he will get one out and then go to the bowl looking for worms....

Maybe the little one is a cricket eater and the big boy is an easy mealworm kind of gal? who knows lol

AND there going to be in the 20 gallon together at some point so for the sake of what is better for the two of them do I leave them seperated for a while or just let them get back together in the 20 gallon and try feeding the little one crickets more? I just got this 20 gallon long tank and im not getting another tank for a while so they will have to manage I think its big enough for the two of them.

I would keep them separate till the small one reaches approximately the size of the larger one so that size is not an issue in bullying. You also need to make sure they both are NOT males.

Do you know the sex of the larger one? (Forgive me if you've already said.)

Leos do hunt based upon the movement of the prey as long as the prey is not hiding. It is possible that each leo has different food preferences, but give both the chance for healthy cricket meals .

[Cofinator]

I was told they are both female... I looked for those pore things near the beginning of the tail and don't see anything noticeable ... In pretty sure they aren't there the larger one is definitely female it's the little one I'm not sure about when I get home I'll try to take a picture of the area where it can be determined and post it here for you all.

One other thing, my little guy has been squinting alot and I always see her adjusting her jaw and mouth. I only say this because the big one I never see do this. Is this normal or do you think my CHE is causing her to squint?

[Elizabeth Freer]

Originally Posted by Cofinator

I was told they are both female... I looked for those pore things near the beginning of the tail and don't see anything noticeable ... In pretty sure they aren't there the larger one is definitely female it's the little one I'm not sure about when I get home I'll try to take a picture of the area where it can be determined and post it here for you all.

One other thing, my little guy has been squinting alot and I always see her adjusting her jaw and mouth. I only say this because the big one I never see do this. Is this normal or do you think my CHE is causing her to squint?

If you have no bright lights over the tank (compact fluorescents, regular incandescents, strip fluorescent lighting tubes) I see no reason for her to squint or make funny faces.

[cricket4u]

Take a close look around your geckos eyes to make sure there is no stuck shed on the eyelids.

[yaya543]

Originally Posted by cricket4u

No harm intended I would love to see this: There has been some semi-researched discussion whether a brumation period is necessary to the health of the leopard gecko vs an optimum Temperature 100% of the Time

If you don't mind me asking how old is your oldest gecko? Never mind without certified documentation of age the question is futile.

I allow my geckos to be my biggest teachers. I provide them all with both. One section has undertank heating (air temp in the 70's)- other section has both (airtemp in the 80's) and undertank heating. Which area do they prefer, the area that has both. I'm sure they know what is best for them. I trust their best judgement over anything.

I will not feel this strongly regardless of any documents unless I didn't see it with my own eyes. The people I have known to manage to keep a leopard gecko alive over 20 years have provided them with warm airtemps as well as belly heat. The geckos that were only provided belly heat barely made it to the age of 15.

I feel it's best to provide space and many temperature options so they can choose

Aren't they thigmaderms tho?

[cricket4u]

Originally Posted by yaya543

Aren't they thigmaderms tho?

I believe that what you are referring to is thigmothermic behavior which means they lay on surfaces at night to gain heat. This is actually why the misconception of providing only belly heat continues. Due to being crepuscular/nocturnal they do practice this behavior. However, leopard geckos also practice protected basking by resting in crevices or thick vegetation that does not impede much solar radiation. They are inactive during the day but become active at night using the heat gained while at rest.

The ideal air temperature during the day ranges from 75-85, no higher or lower. You will have a much greater chance of a gecko developing obesity and hepatic lipidosis if you are forcing the gecko to lay there inactive in one spot trying to keep his body warm.

[yaya543]

Originally Posted by cricket4u

I believe that what you are referring to is thigmothermic behavior which means they lay on surfaces at night to gain heat. This is actually why the misconception of providing only belly heat continues. Due to being crepuscular/nocturnal they do practice this behavior. However, leopard geckos also practice protected basking by resting in crevices or thick vegetation that does not impede much solar radiation. They are inactive during the day but become active at night using the heat gained while at rest.

The ideal air temperature during the day ranges from 75-85, no higher or lower. You will have a much greater chance of a gecko developing obesity and hepatic lipidosis if you are forcing the gecko to lay there inactive in one spot trying to keep his body warm.

thanks for the info! Kudos