[RIPLEE]

Hi,

I just set up a tank for my blue willams geckos.

What kind of UVB I need choose? 2.0 or 5.0?

and is heat pack enough? I cant put the heat lamp on this tank.

Thanks.

PS:The crested geckos just model.

Lee

[reptiven]

Originally Posted by RIPLEE

Hi,

I just set up a tank for my blue willams geckos.

What kind of UVB I need choose? 2.0 or 5.0?

and is heat pack enough? I cant put the heat lamp on this tank.

Thanks.

PS:The crested geckos just model.

Lee

I think 5.0 is too much for tropical geckos i would rather use 2.0

[hexentanz]

Originally Posted by reptiven

I think 5.0 is too much for tropical geckos i would rather use 2.0

This is wrong. Lygodactylus (as well as phelsuma) need around 5%. If you will be lighting through a screen you want to go with 10% since it does filter out some of the light.

[RIPLEE]

I think 2.0 good for live plant.
5.0 good for blue geckos.

Right?

Do they need a hot spot or just heat pad?

Thanks

[hexentanz]

Originally Posted by RIPLEE

I think 2.0 good for live plant.
5.0 good for blue geckos.

Right?

Do they need a hot spot or just heat pad?

Thanks

2.0 is not only good for plants, but also for the eyes of the geckos. 5.0 or 10.0 alone would not be much light in a way that is good for eyesight.

A heat spot (would be best yes, but some people get away with a heatpad, however most people who use a heatpad find that the geckos hug the wall in the location where the heat pad is. I have some tanks where they are so small I cannot add a heatpad or halogen lamp and I notice that at times the geckos will be on the ceiling for warmth, but this is very rare.

[RIPLEE]

ok``thanks.

I think I will use 5.0 for my blue.

[reptiven]

One think i appreciate the most is how much i can learn from each one of you obviously i rather uses 2.0 cause the species i kept

Regards

[Nate Bell]

Here is what I do, whether it is right or not. I do have a slightly bigger tank, however:

The room all the animals are kept in has a separate room heater to keep it at room temperatures that are higher--upper 70's F.

In the front on a hood (through screen) I have a 2.0 UVB and small heat bulb to raise the overall temp a bit, and these are on an 9 hour (winter) timer. This helps plants in the front but does not cause die-off because of too much UVB. A heat pad is stuck on the side, right near where the waterfall is. This adds heat, and also boosts the overall humidity. My Williamsi does not hug the wall over there near the mat, as that spot is too wet, but allows more heat and humidity he likes on the other 3/4 of the tank. Shining through the back/side area, through the glass wall I have a 5.0 UVB and a full spectrum heat bulb on timers. They shine on a "mushroom" ledge and a more established plant, so there are basking area hot spots near the wall, but they don't flood the whole tank and he can get away from the extra UVB and heat for about 1/2 of the tank. There is some "burn back" on the plant nearest the high UVB and heat, but it is so dense at the center it does not affect its general health. Overall, the viv is fairly heavily planted so he can climb leaves or the mushroom ledge to bask or burrow down into the foliage to avoid UVB and heat if he wants, and he can also hide easily if he chooses.

That is what I do, for my .02

[Nate Bell]

ps,

On the naturalistic viv that I have like yours, I put a small undertank heater on it. It keeps the overall cage temp at somewhere between 79-82 F. However, that one doesn't house a gecko currently.

[hexentanz]

Originally Posted by Nate Bell

Shining through the back/side area, through the glass wall I have a 5.0 UVB and a full spectrum heat bulb on timers.

UVB cannot penetrate through glass.