[sciteacher]

Anyone care to share their special techniques for capturing / transferring / photographing, etc... their tiny and ultra-fast geckos species? I've got some Rhoptropus that I swear just teleport themselves from one spot to another. It wouldn't be so bad if they were strictly terrestrial, but they can move vertically and laterally on glass just as fast as they move on the ground. It makes me nervous every time I have to open a lid or door on their cage. I was trying to retrieve some eggs recently and one got out of the cage faster than I could remove my hand and close the door. Luckily it trapped itself in a "dead end" corner and I was able to get a deli cup over it, but I couldn't imagine chasing it down if it had gotten to the more cluttered area of the room where I have boxes, supplies, etc...

I've got some other small, quick species too, and would love to hear if anyone has any techniques that have worked well for them to safely catch and transfer these quick geckos without risking them getting out and leading me on a merry chase. I actually woke up in a sweat last night from a dream that one had gotten out and I was trying to catch it. So, share your tips and lower my stress level LOL.

Gary

[Riverside Reptiles]

I find a fly swatter to be helpful

[Geitje]

Gary,

There are 3 basic points to help in this matter. As you know, I keep a lot of species that can fly out the window in the blink of an eye!

1. I build terrariums that are generally deeper than wide and this facilitates the ability to put all of the terrarium fixtures at the back of the terrarium. So, with Rhoptropus - the rocks are only at the back of the unit.

2. I build only front opening terrariums. It's suicide to use things like a 10 gallon aquarium with a screen lid. Most arboreals that are quick are instantly gone!

3. If I need to transfer a gecko, photograph or inspect the terrarium, I carry it outside and put it in the grass. If you have a really large terrarium, 2 people might be required to carry it out. Once outside, open and if the gecko flies the coop, it will not get far in the grass and they're easily catchable.

So, again, i tend to use deep (12-16 inches deep) terrariums for these types of animals with front opening access and all fixtures at the back of the terrarium. At the moment, I have around 60 Rhoptropus and have not had any escapees for more than a year....

I've attached a pic that shows some terrariums that I use for Rhoptropus.

Jon

[sciteacher]

Thanks for the input Jon. I'm probably going to have to teach myself how to custom make some of my own terrariums this summer when I have a bit more time. I did order a few of the smaller exo-terra front opening tanks for now, which are nice, but rather pricey, and I'd like to have more control over sizes, etc...

Follow up question if you don't mind... you had mentioned to me that you use the taller deli cups with the "insect lids" for some of your smaller hatchlings, and I used the same to raise up a few of the babies I've gotten from you. I have the same problem of taking off the top to feed / clean / etc... and having quick little geckos pop out before I can put the lid in place. I'm usually quick enough to contain them, but I do occasionally have one make it out. I did lose one little, but rare and expensive gecko last summer because of this. It got out and bolted behind some cages. By the time I got things moved to look behind, it was gone. I tore the room apart, but it never did turn up. It really bummed me out... this was the only escapee that I've ever permanently lost.

On a brighter note... I've finally got my collection moved into a more secure room now. The old room was serving double duty and wasn't secured the way I would have liked. Hopefully now if something does get out, it can be contained within the room... I caulked every hole and crack I could find when I built the rooms, and have tight fitting doors.

Thanks again for the reply.

Gary

[Geitje]

Gary,

I tend to forget that most people do not have the same luxuries as others and when I built my gecko building there were certain high priorities that I addressed from the start:
1. Ceiling height is 7 foot. I can easily stand flat footed and completely palm a gecko against the ceiling if necessary.
2. Vents – all are lined with window screen.
3. Every crack of the room is caulked and sealed. If a baby Sphaerodactylus gets out – he’s setting on a concrete floor with nowhere to hide.
4. Every terrarium I have is located on a rack system that is supported by castors (wheels). Something runs around the back of the outside of the cage – fine, I pull the rack out immediately and capture.
5. I have capture nets (little aquarium nets) hanging on the end of nearly every rack that I have (about 30 nets!).

Essentially, if something flies out, it might take me a few minutes, but I’ll get them one way or another! I really try to simplify my rooms, remove all clutter and trash, and keep things very organized and simple.

Yes, I use piles of the 32 oz insect cups for raising any arboreal gecko species that is less than 4” TL at birth. The trick is to only lift one portion of the lid gently with a finger or two (about 10-20% of the lid). Watch the gecko and toss food in. (I should make utube videos on this stuff – it makes explaining a lot more effective!) I think the real trick is learning to sling the crickets through that gap in quick fashion and thereby not allowing the gecko adequate time to escape. I feed roughly 800 geckos or so in this manner, so I’m certainly hearing what you’re saying

Jon

[Elizabeth Freer]

just checking in......