|
By geckonamedspot at 05/31/2010 - 19:46
|
Leopard Gecko(Eublepharis macularius)
Size and Weight
Leopard geckos are generally between 6 and 8 inches, although some reach nearly a foot. Hatchlings are between 2 and 3 inches, and are usually harder to raise and work with. Adult males are usually 7 to 9 inches and weigh between 70 and 85 grams. Adult females are usually 6 to 8 inches and weigh 65 to 75 grams.
Geographical distribution
Leopard geckos are from the middle east. They range from Iran and Pakistan to Northern India and Afghanistan.
Specie Description
Leopard Geckos have been one of the most popular reptiles in captivity for over thirty years. They are one of the easiest beginner geckos to take care of. They are moderately handle-able, but are more for looking at and enjoying.
Sexing
Male Leopard geckos are larger and bulkier than females. Males have a row of circular, more noticeable scales in an upside down "V" shape just above the base of the tail. Males also have two hemipenal bulges at the base of the tail. Females lack both of these qualities and are not as thick around the neck and base of the tail.
Natural Habitat
The natural habitat of the Leopard gecko is dry, rocky grassland and dry, sandy desert. Their climate is hot during the day, between 80 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit and cool at night, between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Longevity
Leopard Geckos are some of the longest living Geckos in captivity. Leopard geckos can live 10 years if properly cared for, although some males reach 20 years.
Temperature
Leo's are from dry, arid climates, so their overall temperature needs to be with in 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. A special reptile light bulb from a pet store or a regular house bulb will be sufficient. Leopard geckos do not need any sort of special UV light since they are most active at night, which is the best time for viewing their natural behavior. Special under tank heating pads may be used, but must be used with caution due to the risk of burning the gecko's underside. Under tank heaters are best under a reptile carpet or a 1 inch thick layer of sand.
Food
Leo's are carnivorous. They eat small insects and on rare occasion, baby "pinky" mice. "Pinky" mice should only be feed to adult Leo's, and again only on rare occasion. Feeder insects include crickets, mealworms, superworms, and as occasional treats, waxworms. Leo's do best on multiple food sources rather than the same, monotonous meal at each feeding. Feeder insects should be gut loaded if possible to insure best nutrition for your Leo. Gutloading is the process of feeding insects with nutritious substances. Commercial insect feed or vegetables such as potatoes, lettuce, and other greens are sufficient. Feeder insects should also be dusted with a calcium powder that includes vitamin D3, and a vitamin powder. Calcium is especially important for juveniles and egg carrying females. Females carrying eggs take the calcium from their bodies to form the egg casings.
Captive Environment
Leo's typically do not need a great deal of space, but bigger is usually better. Too big though, may cause the gecko to stray away from their food and water. One gecko needs at least a 10 gallon tank, two needs at least a 20 gallon.
Substrate in a Leo's environment must be cautiously chosen, sand especially. Sand may cause impaction(the build up of sand or other indigestible matter in the intestinal tract) in Leo's under 6 inches and should not be used. With geckos over 6 inches, the risk of impaction is still there and should be used with caution. Always monitor geckos when using sand. News paper, reptile cage carpet, and tile can also be used as a floor for your Leo.
Hides are a necessity for all types of reptiles. Hides give your gecko a place to sleep, hide, or just chill. A Leo's tank should have a hot side and a cool side. both sides require a hide, so the gecko can pick where he wants to be. On the hot side, the hide must be dry. On the cool side, the hide must be moist and humid. A humid hide can be made by cutting a hole in a Tupperware bowl turned upside down. Place damp moss or a damp paper towel in the bowl to make the hide moist. The moist hide may not seem practical for a desert reptile, but it is necessary for the gecko's shedding and respiratory system.
Enrichment items are also necessary for your gecko to be happy. Rocks, plants, and wood are great for Leo's to climb on and interact with. Rocks and any other enrichment items should not be gotten from outside. Getting objects from outside presents risks to your gecko's health. Parasites, diseases, and pesticides are all possible from "wild" items from outside. If you still want to use items from outside, they should be boiled, baked, or burned to rid of any possible hazards. After the items have been sanitized, you may place them in the gecko's environment, but they should still be used with caution. Use as few items from outside as possible.
Also do not use too many rocks and plants because the gecko may be restricted to movement and be stressed out.
The number one rule with housing two geckos together is DO NOT HOUSE TWO MALES TOGETHER! Housing two or more males together is a recipe for disaster. Both males will fight to protect their turf and the fight will go on until only one gecko is alive. Males may be housed with multiple females or alone. Females are compatible with each other and may be housed together with no problems.
Breeding
Leo's breed just about any time of the year in captivity, but females mostly go into season during the earlier parts of the year such as January. A female in heat will ovulate. Pink circles appear on a female's underside when she is ovulating. A male can breed with any number of females. The male will climb on the female and start to bite her neck. He will continue this until she settles and he can deposit sperm to her. A gravid female will lay one egg in her first clutch and two to three eggs throughout the rest of her lifetime.
Use caution when breeding your gecko with unfamiliar geckos, as the risk of STD's are present.
When a female is ready to lay her eggs, prepare an egg laying box for her. The box should be isolated from the rest of the colony. fill the box with one inch of moist moss or soil. When she is done, remove her and place her back in the colony. Remove the eggs and place them in an incubator. When transporting the eggs from the laying box to the incubator, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES TURN THE EGGS OVER!!! Turning the eggs over will kill them. It is best to mark the eggs with an "x" or some other identification mark before even touching them so as not to get confused and turn them over.
Incubation
A Leopard gecko's sex is temperature dependent when the egg is a few weeks old. This means that the temperature determines the gender of the offspring. If you want the offspring to be females, incubate the eggs between 80 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit. For males incubate the eggs between 86 and 88 degrees Fahrenheit. For a random mix incubate the eggs between 84 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. The eggs will hatch within 45 to 90 days.
After the egg is two to four weeks old, a process called candling can be used to check if the egg is still alive. Candling can be done only when the egg is two to four weeks of age. Candling is the process of taking an egg and illuminating the contents within. To candle an egg, hold the egg in its original position, not turning the egg over at all. A regular flashlight will do the job of illuminating the egg. Shine the light under the egg to reveal what's inside. A healthy egg will glow a bright pink. This is all the blood vessels inside the egg running to the embryo. An infertile egg will either glow yellow, or show a dark egg. The dark spot is the egg decomposing within itself.
Juveniles
Juveniles are much more difficult to take care of than adults. They require more care and attention than adults. They need a lot of calcium and vitamins. Feeding juveniles is also more difficult. Their food must be no larger than the space between their eyes. Crickets are best since they are the easiest to find for the juvenile. Pinhead crickets are what your gecko will eat the first few weeks of his life.
Substrate for juvenile Leo's should be either tile, newspaper, or reptile cage carpet. Never use sand as a substrate for juvenile leopard geckos. The risk of sand impaction in juveniles is far greater than in adults due to the smaller size. Juveniles don't need an enclosure as big as adults. A 10 gallon aquarium will suffice for juvenile geckos.
|
|
|
|
|
Newest Posts
|
|
|
Who's online
|
There are currently 8 users and 74 guests online.Online users- zelda
- d.crockett
- olivine
- teenysidhe
- cheesyguy
- Istel
- red_sir
- xMRn00dl3sx
|
|
Syndicate
|
 |
|
