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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kilimodo View Post
    Good evening! And thanks a lot for the reply to my worries,
    I do have the MRP + 2 other repashy mix. I will try and restrain myself from giving him any insects for a week, (and explain this to the wife) as for here "no food will lead to death^^) I know its extreme but yes i ll explain it to her. Jokes aside, i do feed him a few licks (0n a skewer stick) of CGD and after three licks he just turns his head.
    I also wanted to talk avout tank size, beeing a "big tank lover" and thus giving max space as possible to my little regugees :45x45x60 for Tiamat, the little crestie im talking about, i hope this does not affect his eating, even though im a bit sceptic about "too big tanks" knowing that in Nature there are no walls..
    I am aware that an only insect diet may lead to MBD .. But i couldnt imagine a baby crestie going down on the floor of a forest to hunt gor rotten fruit, thats why I imagined a scenatio of them eating insects untill they were big enough, (I do supplement them with calcium and vitamine) he eats avout 2 per day, for now.
    I īll be sure to give a restraint untill he eats his CGD though!! I xill try and post a pic of him if i manage to find how ^^ and do not hesitate to comment on his state ( beinng only 8-9 month old
    Thank you for the advice, I appreciate the concern and help givťn to us
    PS: excuse my french .. I try to write proper english even Attachment 43341Attachment 43341Attachment 43341Attachment 43341Attachment 43341 it beeing my second language
    Good night to you and all readers !
    Although it's true that nature has no walls, there is still such a thing as "too big" of an enclosure, especially for young crested geckos. Young crested geckos tend to keep to themselves in the wild in order to avoid predators while they're small and vulnerable. But once your gecko reaches adulthood (around 2 years old), you can think about introducing him/her to however large of an enclosure you can sustain.

    Wild crested geckos eat a varied diet of insects, flowers, nectar, and fruits whenever they can get them. Technically they are classified as frugivores, which means "fruit-eating." So the CGD is still very important, even for young cresteds. Breeders have raised hatchling geckos on nothing but CGD with great success, so as long as you have a good brand, you have nothing to worry about.
    Mariah Healey
    Author of several care guides on ReptiFiles, The Reptile Blog for Reptile People
    • Pogona vitticeps
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    Thanks Kilimodo thanked for this post

  2. #22
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    Mimo ( my crestie ) ate more Pangea from the back of the spoon than ever! Maybe it’s stupid but I think it’s a big step forward I’m going to weight him every week and see. If I don’t see him gaining weight soon I’m going invest into some sort of heating to increase the metabolism. Now, is a ceramic heat emitter with a thermostat good? And what wattage should I go for ?

  3. #23
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    That's good news! A ceramic heat emitter is definitely my go-to option for increasing temps. You shouldn't need a thermostat, though — a lamp dimmer and a thermometer should be all you need. Get the lowest wattage CHE you can find, as you really only need to bump temps by a few degrees.
    Mariah Healey
    Author of several care guides on ReptiFiles, The Reptile Blog for Reptile People
    • Pogona vitticeps
    • Tiliqua gigas evanescens
    • Tiliqua scincoides intermedia
    • Correlophus ciliatus
    • Lepidodactylus lugubris
    • Python regius
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReptiFiles View Post
    That's good news! A ceramic heat emitter is definitely my go-to option for increasing temps. You shouldn't need a thermostat, though ó a lamp dimmer and a thermometer should be all you need. Get the lowest wattage CHE you can find, as you really only need to bump temps by a few degrees.
    Perfect thank you! I weighted him again today and it showed 2.60 grams. Last week it was 2.21 grams so hopefully he will keep gaining weight ☺️

  5. #25
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    So u think if I get a low wattage ceramic heat emitter I don’t need a thermostat? Also what is a lamp dimmer ?

  6. #26
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    I recommend a low wattage CHE just so you don't have to waste money. I recommend a dimmer because they work better with lamps. A dimmer is this, by the way: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300...ds=lamp+dimmer
    Mariah Healey
    Author of several care guides on ReptiFiles, The Reptile Blog for Reptile People
    • Pogona vitticeps
    • Tiliqua gigas evanescens
    • Tiliqua scincoides intermedia
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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReptiFiles View Post
    I recommend a low wattage CHE just so you don't have to waste money. I recommend a dimmer because they work better with lamps. A dimmer is this, by the way: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300...ds=lamp+dimmer
    Thatís okay thank you and u sure I donít need a thermostat then ? Iím not home all the time as I go to school and I donít want the temperature to get too high while Iím not there, what do you think?

  8. #28
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    Most people fiddle around with the CHE and dimmer until it's just right, but if you're willing to invest in a thermostat, then that works too. You just need to make sure the probe is in the right place so you don't accidentally make the enclosure too hot. Both are viable options - dimmers are just cheaper.
    Mariah Healey
    Author of several care guides on ReptiFiles, The Reptile Blog for Reptile People
    • Pogona vitticeps
    • Tiliqua gigas evanescens
    • Tiliqua scincoides intermedia
    • Correlophus ciliatus
    • Lepidodactylus lugubris
    • Python regius
    • Salvator merianae

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReptiFiles View Post
    Most people fiddle around with the CHE and dimmer until it's just right, but if you're willing to invest in a thermostat, then that works too. You just need to make sure the probe is in the right place so you don't accidentally make the enclosure too hot. Both are viable options - dimmers are just cheaper.
    Thank you thatís what Iím going to do

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by liwia1177 View Post
    Thatís okay thank you and u sure I donít need a thermostat then ? Iím not home all the time as I go to school and I donít want the temperature to get too high while Iím not there, what do you think?
    A dimmer/rheostat is a very risky option for a crestie in a vertical tank.

    Thermostats automatically turn off the heat source if temps exceed the set temp. Rheostats have no such control if the tank overheats.

    Your crestie is better off by far with a thermostat. Swell Reptiles in the UK is an awesome source for reptile supplies.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

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    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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