Results 1 to 2 of 2
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Post Thanks / Like
    0 Post(s)
    0 Thread(s)

    Exclamation 2 new geckos with mbd


    Hi! My name is Maddie and i have recently took in two leopard geckos. They were not taken care of. It's a miracle they are still living. The lady had them for two years in a dirty tank with dead crickets and the geckos have never been given not even a lick of calcium so you can imagine how pitiful they look! I have cleaned them up, helped the albino shed. The albino is way smaller than the other but eats way more. I can't get the other one to eat. I did however hold him and make him open his mouth to feed him a cricket but i couldn't get him to do it again. I really don't want to force him but i know it could be necessary. I have talked to vets and pet store owners who have experience in these types of animals. I'm just looking for further tips to make them comfortable and put more weight back on them. I would hate to just put them down when they are still fighting to live. Any help is much appreciated! If i can figure out how to include pictures of them i will for a better understanding!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    USA: Oregon
    Post Thanks / Like
    85 Post(s)
    9 Thread(s)



    Welcome to Geckos Unlimited, Maddie!

    Please share separate videos of each leo walking around on a solid surface like a floor or a carpet. One minute long videos may give us what we need to evaluate the extent of MBD.

    1. Make sure each leo has access to fresh water 24/7.
    2. House them separately.
    3. What size are their enclosures?

    In the meantime, have you any supplements? I recommend Zoo Med's products: Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3, Repti Calcium with D3, and Repti Calcium withOUT D3.

    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C).

    Place the thermostat's probe and a digital thermometer's probe together right on top of the substrate underneath the warm dry hide. If you use a UTH + a CHE you'll need 2 separate thermostats, because ground and air temperatures are substantially different.

    • Warm dry hide ground temperature: 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) inside a leo's warm dry hide.
    • Warm humid/moist hide: Also place the humid hide 100% on top of the heat mat. Keep temperatures similar to the warm dry hide.
    • Cool dry hide ground temperature: 70ish-75 F (21.1-23.9 C) Usually the cool end ground temperature matches the room temperature where the enclosure sits.
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the cool end

    Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. If you wish, during the night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 04-21-2020 at 06:13 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

User Tag List

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts