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  1. #1
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    Unhappy Am I worried about the temps too much?


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    I have a tendency to be a worry wort when it comes to those under my care. Itís winter and the apartment... isnít the best. It gets really cold and there is no heating except for turning on the stove, which is obviously not the safest thing in the world to do overnight. Iím used to this, weíve endured for years and we are lucky we live in California. But now i have a gecko baby to worry about. I woke up to the red glow of an LED display that said 84.1 for the warm side. I immediately flipped on the CHE. I am worried about Sahyuvonnos (Sahyu for short) not getting enough belly heat to digest. What is the lowest temp that the warm side can go before it becomes a problem? Not like I intend to let it get that low, but for peace of mind. The tank is lined with slate tile and at this point I am considering removing them. (except for the poop one of course) My little Sahyu is only about 3 months old (a guess), so i want them to be able to take in all of their nutrients.

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    Was the 84 on the floor of the enclosure or in the air? I worry less about winter temp than other people. As long as I can get a reading on the floor in the low 90's I don't worry about the air temp. That means that on the coldest days some of the geckos may either spend most of the time inside their warm hides (which trap air that gets warmed from the cage floor) or may go to the cool side and brumate themselves (some of my geckos do this).

    Aliza

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    It was 84 in the warm hide on the floor. Also, if i leave the CHE on, the air temps get to the lower 80s easily even if the warm floor temps are still trying to get up. For that reason, I am a bit wary of hooking my CHE up to my thermostat. Gonna try to see what happens if I lift the CHE up with some slate tile overnight (with the occasional checking of course.)
    Last edited by Dragonemperess; 11-25-2016 at 12:24 AM. Reason: Just thought of something to add.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonemperess View Post
    It was 84 in the warm hide on the floor. Also, if i leave the CHE on, the air temps get to the lower 80s easily even if the warm floor temps are still trying to get up. For that reason, I am a bit wary of hooking my CHE up to my thermostat. Gonna try to see what happens if I lift the CHE up with some slate tile overnight (with the occasional checking of course.)
    An overall temp drop to ~67*F at night is perfectly fine for your leo. If it's cooler than that leave your UTH on 24/7. The vivarium's warm end should reach 88-92*F during the day.

    Consider a rheostat for your CHE or a second thermostat. The Lutron company makes a good one. That would be necessary, because both a UTH and the CHE are set for different temps.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Dragonemperess thanked for this post
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  5. #5
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    Good to know that my gecko baby isn’t as fragile as I treat them. The lifting the CHE with slate worked out well for the problem. It gives it space to let some heat escape, so it doesn’t get up to 84 air on the warm side. Thank you for your assistance. I guess I should stop worrying so much.
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

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    The tank is lined with slate tile and at this point I am considering removing them. (except for the poop one of course) My little Sahyu is only about 3 months old (a guess), so i want them to be able to take in all of their nutrients.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonemperess View Post
    Good to know that my gecko baby isn’t as fragile as I treat them. The lifting the CHE with slate worked out well for the problem. It gives it space to let some heat escape, so it doesn’t get up to 84 air on the warm side. Thank you for your assistance. I guess I should stop worrying so much.
    You're quite welcome!

    Don't remove any slate tile substrate! What if the under tank heat mat went on the fritz? You wouldn't want to toast Sahyu's toes.

    Keep the air temp no warmer than 82ish.

    Last I checked Home Depot sells Lutron dimmers/rheostats.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-25-2016 at 10:03 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Thank you for the assistance, I think I have a temporary bettering of the situation in place. I got an extension cord and attached it to the thermostat, so now the CHE and heat mat are both attached to the thermostat. it definitely isn’t perfect, I still have to watch the air temps with my air temp thermometer and switch the CHE off if things look to hot in there. But at least the CHE will shut off with the heat mat when it reaches the limit. That, and its great insurance incase I forget to turn the CHE off (again). I also have the CHE held up with two layers of unused slate with a space in between so that all of the air isn’t directed into the tank. That helps a lot with the air temps. I just switch it off at night since 84 at night isn’t deadly (thanks for that, btw)
    So far Sahyu is healthy. Great appetite, alert and curious, normal poops, and now weighs 24 grams from the 8 grams I got them as in October. They even crawled up my shoulder after I played with them a bit after their weigh in! Too bad I still have to deal with the hypnotic puppy eyes that say one more cricket please. I can barely fight it off.
    Last edited by Dragonemperess; 11-30-2016 at 09:41 PM. Reason: Color broke?

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    Thanks for the 82 air temp knowledge. I deal in solid numbers when it comes to understanding stuff and I was looking for that.
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonemperess View Post
    Thanks for the 82 air temp knowledge. I deal in solid numbers when it comes to understanding stuff and I was looking for that.
    You're welcome. I feel warm air space benefits leos.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    ......So far Sahyu is healthy. Great appetite, alert and curious, normal poops, and now weighs 24 grams from the 8 grams I got them as in October. They even crawled up my shoulder after I played with them a bit after their weigh in! Too bad I still have to deal with the hypnotic puppy eyes that say one more cricket please. I can barely fight it off.
    "I can barely fight it off."

    Sahyu seems to be growing exceptionally well!

    Have you 2 leos?
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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