Uroplatus Information Sheet

[jeepboy_90]

Over the past year I have spent sometime looking at a majority of the resources for the Uroplatus Species. It seems that there are a large amount of folks out there with these animals, but not that much information on the specifics or husbandry of these animals. I have seen on this forum (Mike Martin’s Phantasticus care sheet, great work) and others a lot of great tips and tricks for maintaining such a delicate animal, but it seems that sometimes it is too late. So I figured that if we had a fill in the blank type sheet that some of us keeping this species could fill it out. It would allow the information to be readily available on the forum for others to see and use if wanted. I am sure we all have something to add, that someone else might not know or have another way of doing, possibly better. This is by no means a catch all or a perfect solution to all our questions, but a start at obtaining information on these animals for other to become successful. Please look over the below and if you feel so inclined to fill it out please do so for us the forum users and the Uroplatus we keep or kept.

THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS SO PLEASE ADD SOMETHING IF IT NEEDS TO BE ADDED AND DELETED IF IT NEEDS TO BE DELETED.

Thanks for taking a look and here is to a great New Year.

SPECIES: Uroplatus______________
AMOUNT: (if kept in groups, what size)
WC or CB:
WEIGHT: (normal, gravid)
LENGTH:
LONGEVITY: (years your animals have been in captivity)
ADD PICTURES IF AVALIABLE

HUSBANDRY
ENCLOSURE:
CONTENTS: (plants, cage furnishings, substrate)
TEMPERATURES: (daytime and nighttime)
HUMIDTY:
MISTING METHOD: (hand, mist king, etc.) (if automatic what is the duration and amount per day)
FEEDING: (any supplementation)
DO YOU CONDUCT COOLING:
LIGHTING:
ADD PICTURES IF AVALIABLE

INCUBATION
EGG WEIGHTS:
INCUBATION METHOD: (incubator, shelf, etc)
INCUBATION MEDIA: (vermiculite, hatch-rite, etc)
TEMPERATURES:
INCUBATION TIME:

HATCHLING CARE
This section is left up to you as the breeder to fill in. Please try to provide us with the best information possible. Such as cage size, types of food, humidity, temperatures and others items you feel are needed to be successful in Uroplatus. Also if you have any data on size of animals please provide.

OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Here please provide any tips or tricks that have helped you in your success with the Uroplatus species. This could also be items that have not helped in your favor, so it does not happen to others.

 

[jeepboy_90]

I guess I will go first.

SPECIES: Uroplatus Ebenaui
AMOUNT: 1.2
WC or CB: WC
WEIGHT: Male 6.7 g. Female’s 7-8g. (when gravid 8-9g)
LENGTH: not measured
LONGEVITY: 2 years LTC

HUSBANDRY
ENCLOSURE: 18”x18”x24” Exo-Terra
CONTENTS: The enclosure has a background created of great-stuff foam and eco-earth. A large piece of cork bark was placed in the rear corner to stimulate a tree trunk. Placed at the base is a pile of leafs for egg laying. Substrate consist of super soil 70% and Eco-Earth 30%. Two ficus trees are planted directly into the soil, along with two Panda Philodendron.
TEMPERATURES: Daytime 70-74 F Nighttime 67-69 F
HUMIDTY: Constant at 80%+
MISTING METHOD: I am using a Pro-Mist 60, set to an Encore Timer. Two nozzles through the top screen and are fixed with bulk head. Timer is set to go off three times a day, with a 15 second cycle.
FEEDING: Is done every other day. Roughly 5 (¼”) crickets per animal. Crickets are treated with supplements about once a week. Rep-Cal - Herptivite & Calcium.
DO YOU CONDUCT COOLING: No, they seem to cycle with current temperatures laying stops for a few months then starts again.
LIGHTING: One 15” Exo-Terra 5.0 UVB bulb, changed every 6-7 months

INCUBATION
EGG WEIGHTS: .5-.7g
INCUBATION METHOD: I placed my eggs in a deli cup that is vermiculite with 1:1 ratio of water. Then they are placed on a shelf in the house were the temperatures are consistent at 68 F.
INCUBATION MEDIA: vermiculite
TEMPERATURES: 68F
INCUBATION TIME: around 117 days at this temperature.

HATCHLING CARE
I have been using a small cricket carrier for my hatchlings, but I am currently in the process of changing the way I will do things. I had a hatchling die of impaction a week ago and I was using eco-earth. I will be switching over to Super Soil and pack it down. I place plenty of small branches and also some live plant clipping into the carrier. I provide them light by placing them next to the adult cages. As for food, I have been going the first week with fruit flies, then going to pin head crickets. The size was .4 g at hatching, then up to .6g before the impaction at 40 days.

OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION
I have witnessed basking from all my gravid females and feel that the lighting is what they need to assist in producing of fertile eggs.

 

[Calfirecap]

Way to go Jed, great idea

I'll fill in some of the blanks in the next few days, but I'll have to give you a call on how to post the pics.

Lawrence

 

[camo]

SPECIES: Uroplatus sikorae sameiti
AMOUNT: 1.1
WC or CB: WC
WIEGHT: Male?, Female 35.g
LENGTH: 8-9 inches
LONGEVITY: 1 year

ENCLOSER: 40 gal tall
CONTENTS:
-Backgrounds: If you have or you are getting a sikorae sameiti for the first time I highly recommend a tropical background or a rock face background. The plastic ones that you tape onto the back of the cage are the ones I am referring to. My sameiti is never on a plant or a piece of wood during the day, but on the glass which looks like a rainforest.
-Substrate: Eco-earth seems to be the best substrate for sameiti.
-Wood: I use a lot of wood from outside it being oak, dogwood, dead roots, etc. I will get the wood and wash it with hot water and sometimes let is soak. Then I will pre-heat the oven to 350.F and bake the wood for about 25 minutes. Then the wood should be clean. If it has an aroma to it after baking, bake it for another 25 minutes or 40 minutes or as long as it takes. Don’t leave it in for hours at a time though (common since). I also use lots of bamboo all over the cage.
Plants: Lots of bromeliads, dwarf schefflera, and corn plants (Dracaena fragrans) if available
TEMPERATURE: Daytime 70-78.F, Nighttime 68-72.F
HUMIDITY: 75%-90%
MISTING METHOND: I use a hand mister every other morning and every night.
FEEDING: I feed my geckos every other day with medium crickets. Every so often my female will eat a wax worm which is very good source of fat. Also the moths that the wax worms turn into is good for the geckos. I always dust the crickets with calcium and a vitamin supplement.
LIGHTING: Exo-Terra Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy 18". 2 Exo-Terra Repti Glo 5.0 Compact Fluorescent Tropical Terrarium Lamp 26 watt
BREEDING: I have not yet attempted to breed my pair. I will introduce them to each other in a month or so and see what happens.
OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
If you are buying a WC animal I suggest using this technique.
Buy parazap from this web-site ParaZap-Parasite control for pets
Then buy electrodize supplement at this web-site or were ever else they sell it
Hagen Exo Terra Electrodize Supplement - 100 mL PT-1996

You will need to cook the parazap according the instructions that come with it. Then you need to let it cool and get 0.2 1/2 ml or 1/2 cc of it in a syringe. Then take the syringe and get two drops of the electrodize. Open your geckos mouth by pressing on the sides of the mouth under the eyes or wherever else it works. Feed it to your gecko and you should see unbelievable improvements. Even if the gecko does not have parasite, parazap is still good for them.

 

[miguel camacho!]

i still give thanks for getting thanks...and remind people that even though im am currently out of the hobby, send me suggestions and ill be more than happy to add to the phantasticus caresheet as i can or have the memory for.

 

[supperl]

thx thats awesome!!

 

[Gecko_Danny]

Wow this is a great idea, im only a noob so far, with little experience of U. henkeli but i have always been intrested in U pietschmanni but i havent found any info about them.

If somone with experience of this species could give some info i would be happy

Regards
Danny

 

[jeepboy_90]

Even if you have a little experience, you may still have something to add. Camo thanks for adding information.

 

[camo]

Your welcome. I know sikorae sameiti information is hard to come across so I thought it would be helpful.

 

[jeepboy_90]

Well I figured that after a little over a month I would bring this back up. Please post what information you have on the Uros you are keeping.

 

[Graham_s]

is anyone able to add any more information?
Anyone got a good one for Pietschmanni?

 

[y9pema]

SPECIES: Uroplatus Phantasticus
AMOUNT: 2.2 in seperate rubbermaids 4 hatchlings 2 eggs cooking.
WC or CB: wc
WEIGHT: (normal, gravid)
LENGTH:
LONGEVITY: almost 1 year
ADD PICTURES IF AVALIABLE

HUSBANDRY
ENCLOSURE: rubbermaid containers (24x18x14)
CONTENTS: pothos, twigs, moss, coco-substrate
TEMPERATURES: 68 winter, 72 max summer
HUMIDTY: rh 55% after misting 80-90%
MISTING METHOD: pump sprayer thingy
FEEDING: crix, dubia nymphs, calcium powder dusting, and a cal+vitamins.
DO YOU CONDUCT COOLING:
LIGHTING: ambient room lighting
ADD PICTURES IF AVALIABLE

INCUBATION
EGG WEIGHTS:
INCUBATION METHOD: gladware container
INCUBATION MEDIA: perlite
TEMPERATURES: room temp
INCUBATION TIME: winter over 120 days, since warmer 90days

HATCHLING CARE
I use tall deli cups coco substrate, twigs and some fake plants. i use this setup for 2+ months until they are off fruitflies and moved onto 10 day crix, then they are moved to a slightly larger live setups.