Lygodactylus Williamsi

'stoph

New member
Lygodactylus Williamsi

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Scientific chart
Accepted scientific name: Lygodactylus williamsi LOVERIDGE 1952 (accepted name)
Common name: Williams' Dwarf Gecko
Classification: AnimaliaPhylum ChordataClass ReptiliaOrder Squamata Family
Gekkonidae Genus: Lygodactylus
Distribution: Tanzania

Introduction
In the wild these blue green arboreal dwarf gecko's can only be found in a small tropical forest in Tanzania.
They have been introduced into the hobbyist community recently due to deforestication of their natural habitat but these animals are still rare to get.
Due to intensive breeding in europe the number of CB specimens is growing but it still will take a while before they will be seen on the market more often.
I also expect strict laws in the near future to protect these little blue gems.

Size: 6- 10cm (2,5-4”)

Feeding: fruit flies, small crickets (calcium & vitamin dusted),new born roaches (white ones), phelsuma fruit & honey mixture (mixed fruit, fruit baby food, honey, vitamins)

Environment/housing: Eastern-Tanzania tropical forest
A vertical orientated tropical terrarium with lots of branches and plants.
A small/ medium sized vivarium is large enough for a pair or trio.

Temperature & humidity: 25-29°C/78-85°F and a dry, sunny place for basking. 50–80% RHV (misting provides drinking water)
UV lighting should be provided

Breeding:
In a couple of weeks clutches of 2 to 4.eggs get pasted somewhere high in the enclosure. Conditions for the eggs: humid, no direct water on the eggs and temperature of 26 to 30 degrees Celsius.
No need for incubation, best to leave the eggs in the enclosure.
The parents are often not so protective of their Young and eggs so cover them with deli cup or something similar. Remove the young when hatched to another enclosure or they will become a snack for the parents.

Young animals need a lot of calcium and UV so provide them powdered fruit flies & pinheads
After 7 months they reach sexual maturity.

Sexing: dominant males have a beautiful blue color, females a copperish coloration with some dark green.
Young males or surpressed males will also be greenish like the females so the best way to sex them is to check for hemipenises bulges and femoral pores. Males often will have a full black beard while females have a lighter beard that is divided in lines.
Both sexes have a orange and yellow underside wich is as spectacular as their blue colors.

A trio with one young male and two females
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Males are territorial, so keep them separated or keep them in a large enclosure with lots of hiding places to minimize encounters.
They will puff their throats, color their beards darker and swing their heads from side to side. This is followed by face licking or a short chase.

Deseases/illness:
It's important to check for mites with imports.
So put them in quarantine for a while and threat the for mites if necessary before introducing them to their enclosure.

When working with young animals shedding can be a difficult matter.
My young male had a retained shed on one flank of his body although he had a regular bath at that time (he just finished his treatment for mites) and high humidity in the cage.
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So if you see a dark spot that doesn't belong, give it a warm bath and help his shed with tweezers.
The scales underneath the bad shed will be less developed so it's better to desinfect it a couple of times to keep it from getting infected. (procedure was confirmed by a local vet)


Feel free to correct or add information
If you have trouble to find in depth information
try to find info on other Lygodactylus species or even phelsuma klemmeri

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Cheers
 
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daygecko

New member
Do you have any information as to how to induce mating. I saw my pair mating a couple of months ago, but no eggs were laid. I haven't spotted any mating since.
Thanks
Paul
 

'stoph

New member
The fact you don't see it doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
Give them a humid warm space at the top of the terrarium, avoid stress and let them do their thing.
 

JonDL

New member
What is the best treatment for mites on the Lygodactylus? My male williamsi that came in yesterday had a few mites on his arm. Thank you.

-Jon DeLong
 

'stoph

New member
I removed most of the mites with this tool and a magnifying glass only the ones between the toes are really hard to remove this way.
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Put the reptile in a warm bath for 20 min. 3 times a day (don't drown your pet).
You'll probably see little red dots floating in the water afterwards.

Vasoline,mineral oil, reptile relief, Mite off are some of the products used to suffocate the mites. Just put some of the product on the mites with a cotton bud or put some of the product on a cloth and gently wrap your reptile in it.

This way you should be able to remove the mites within 2 days.

I've heard also of a new product in liquid form, just put a drop on the back of your reptile and the mites should go away. (same principal as cat anti flea drops i guess)

Places mites love to hide in-> armpits, between the toes, throat, belly and in the corners of the eyes.
 
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daygecko

New member
How big are the mites? I have looked at my pair and am hoping they arn't carrying any. If mine did have some i doubt id be able to catch and hold them- they are very skittish.
 

dinoschiff

New member
Stoph,
thanks for the care sheet.

About spotting mites, they are so small that I found the best way is to make some good high quality digital pictures through the glass and then enlarge them with the computer: becomes very easy to see smal red spots and no stres on the animals.

Ciao, Dino
 

Torin

New member
What are the ideal steps to take when you first get a freshly imported William's? As far as cage size and type, lighting, and light cycle, medication if any, how best to hydrate it, what kinds of things to put in the cage? Is it best to keep fresh imports separated or together?
 
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'stoph

New member
20 gallon is a good size for a pair or trio - it's less interesting to keep them in larger groups (more fights, stress)

For freshly imported it's important to get them back on the right weight so enough food and water is a must.
 

'stoph

New member
coconut husk ships will do fine. They are too big for them to swallow + the animals probably will never go to the bottom of the cage.
 

robferblue

New member
help on colour changes....

2 days ago i bought a couple of these amazing small Lygodactylus williamsi lizards.
A bit of an impulse buy, but i keep 3 chameleons (and eggs) so i would say i know what i am doing...........mostly!

when i pruchsed them they were in a small 6" by 6" little habitat cage, and both were bight blue.

i have them now in a 3foot tall by 2foot by 2foot terrarium, with a UVB light and under heater.
no basking light as yet.

i have seen them eat small crickts, even a small meal worm, and lick some honey that i put in.
they seem quite active and healthy BUT

they have compeletely changed colour!!

first of all they are VERY hard to tell apart!
One seems to be more coppery green now....so is that a female? do i have a pair?
but also one seems to be out and about more - the blueish one.
and the other one goes dark....i mean black dark all over....and tends to hide in a crevice at the top of the cage wall..........
then the other one went all dark and almost black as well.
they do not appear to fight....or challenge each other

so question:
in a smaller enclosure they did not seem to exhibit this colour change
in chameleons the dark colour suggests stress or challenge...esp from females that do not want to mate.

they were soooooo pretty when bright blue. the shop owner said they had no problem being kept together..........so is this behaviour normal, and/or what can i/should i do (esp if i want to see them bright blue again!)

help//////thanks.
 

jpg

New member
Like Dana said you have two male . The blue being dominant is challenging the other and causing stress to both of them . Seperate them asap . Try to locate some females , a good indicator is the lack of black under the throat . Males have a full black under throat were females dont .
 

gazellianaimee

New member
Hello,

I have been offered a pair of these geckos for a relatively decent price. I was wondering what they are like as pets?

Are they handlable? They are certainly very pretty.

I've also been offered Lygodactylus fischeri, i wondered if you knew anything about caring for these? There seems to be little, if any information on them. I might even go as far to say as they are even more beautiful than the williamsi, with more pastel, but still brilliant blues and greens.

I would very much appreciate any help you can give me.

Best wishes,
Aimée
 

zohariels

New member
Hello,

I have been offered a pair of these geckos for a relatively decent price. I was wondering what they are like as pets?

Are they handlable? They are certainly very pretty.

I've also been offered Lygodactylus fischeri, i wondered if you knew anything about caring for these? There seems to be little, if any information on them. I might even go as far to say as they are even more beautiful than the williamsi, with more pastel, but still brilliant blues and greens.

I would very much appreciate any help you can give me.

Best wishes,
Aimée

These are one of my favorite geckos, they're very active and beautiful, not to mention the fun of watching their interactions with each other. I find them to be somewhat like most phelsumas, you can handle them but they seem to prefer being left alone, and with their size you have to be very careful. The caresheet at the beginning of this thread is excellent and pretty much takes care of everything. Good luck Aimee!:D
-Jess
 

toby

New member
hi i am very new to this i got a pair of williamsi geckos 2weeks ago but the female is a bit skinny. i have seen her eat a couple of crickets and some grapes. can anyone tell me how to fatten her up a bit please. thank you
 
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