Folks,
Over the last week my Phelsuma sundbergi ladiguensis pair haven't been getting along. I've gotten five eggs from them so far this year, two of which have already hatched. The male is getting really zealous in his overtures towards the female. What started out as little nips here and there have turned into knock down drag out brawls with both animals dropping to the bottom of the cage and tearing pieces of skin off each other. I decided to separate them, but needed to construct a new vivarium. I had my camera handy and took a few pics of the process (the pictures of each step are attached):
Step 1. I decided to create a vivarium with a false bottom, because I wanted the plants in the vivaria to do well and compliment the day gecko. I have found that a moist air space below the plant's roots is healthier for the plants, creates an aerobically bioactive soil, and allows excess liquid animal waste to flush from the soil where it can be siphoned out easily. I purchased a 29 gallon Zilla sliding screen lid glass tank and a 2' X 4' panel of light diffusion egg crate. I cut the egg crate to within the inside floor area dimensions of the tank.
Step 2. The egg crate was going to be used as the mezzanine for the false bottom, but because the size of the holes is too large to simply place soil on it without it falling through, I purchased a roll of nylon window screen to cover it.
Step 3. I measured a rectangle of the screen 1-1/2" larger in all dimensions than the the egg crate. This is critical to prevent soil from falling down below the mezzanine.
Step 4. I cut the screen using a box cutter.
Step 5. Next, I cut two 4" X 4" squares of nylon screen. One of these will be used as a cover element for the mezzanine screen where the lower level vent will be placed. The remaining one will cover the vent standpipe. The vent standpipe will be used to slip the siphon into when the reservoir below the mezzanine fills with water.
Step 6. Next, I marked fourteen 2-1/2" sections of 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe which will be used to support the mezzanine.
Step 7. I used a PVC pipe cutter to cut the pieces. This results in less mess than a conventional saw.
Step 8. Now, I cut a 5" section of 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe for the vent standpipe. It is important to make this standpipe as deep as your intended soil level and then at least one inch above.
Step 9. Next, I drilled 1/4" holes through all the cut sections of pipe, such that the holes were approximately 1/2" from one end of the cut pipe section. This hole will be used to secure the "feet" and "vent" to the mezzanine.
Step 10. I then took zip ties and ran them through the holes of the "feet" and arranged ten of the "feet" on the mezzanine to support the outer edge of the mezzanine.
Step 11. Next, I added four more feet to support the interior, and routed the zip ties of each foot through the mezzanine and back down to the foot, threading the male part of the zip tie into the female portion, cinched them down, and cut the excess tail of the zip tie.
Step 12. Now I placed the nylon screen on the mezzanine with the feet down and arranged it so that it had 1-1/2" overshoot on all sides. I then located where I wanted the standpipe to be mounted, and cut an X into the nylon screen to allow the standpipe to slip through.
Step 13. Next, I removed the nylon screen and secured the standpipe to the mezzanine using a zip tie. Then I returned the nylon screen and fit the screen flush to the mezzanine.
Step 14. Sometimes, the lizards will push the nylon back a little around the standpipe and make it down into the reservoir area below the mezzanine. To avoid this, I take one of the 4" X 4" squares that I cut earlier and cut a cross in it just large enough that it can be slipped over the standpipe and laid flat against the nylon screen already on the mezzanine.
Step 15. Then I secure the nylon piece in step 14 to the standpipe at its base using a rubber band. This seals the mezzanine at the standpipe base. Now I take the last remaining 4" X 4" square of nylon screen and fold it over the end of the standpipe and secure it using another rubber band. This will be removed whenever you want to siphon the reservoir, but must remain on the standpipe as long as any lizards are in the vivarium. Some folks use foam instead, but I prefer to have better air flow between the reservoir and the air in the vivarium (it keeps the reservoir from becoming stagnant).
Step 16. Now I inserted the assembly into the bottom of the tank such that the extra nylon screen sticks up from the mezzanine, and does not get tucked beneath it. This is important to maintain a proper seal.
Step 17. The next step is to prepare the substrate. I use a layer of Lekka (Clay encapsulated activated charcoal beads), but aquarium gravel and then a fine layer of activated charcoal can also be used. First wash the lekka or aquarium gravel thoroughly, or the water in the reservoir will be opaque.
Step 18. Before placing the Lekka on the nylon screen, I fold the corners of the screen like a military bed sheet, and hold the corner down as I pour the Lekka into the tank. The lekka should be smoothed out to create a level layer of about 1/2". If the lekka layer is too thick, your lizards may bring it to the surface if they do any digging.
Step 19. Next, I create a topsoil from coconut peat and sand. I mix the coconut peat and sand in a 10:1 volumetric ratio with the largest volume component being the coconut peat. The reasoning here is that the sand create small air spaces in the soil and prevents packing and settling of the peat. Packed peat wicks water, allowing the excessive growth of anaerobes and deliterious types of fungi.
Step 20. Place plants, bamboo, cork, and feeding dishes where desired. In my vivarium, I used a common hybrid florist's Guzmania bromeliad for a nesting area, Epipremnum aureum (Pothos), and Draceana fragrans cf. variegata. The addition of plants helps maintain air humidity, retain soil moisture, and remove ammoniacal compounds from the soil. The bamboo I used for nest and basking sites, and the cork bark as a resting site against the back of the tank.
My hope is that this new vivarium will create a comfortable place for the female Phelsuma sundbergi ladiguensis gecko to recouperate and contain enough visual barriers that the male can be introduced for small periods to maintain breeding activity.
Regards,
Dave
Over the last week my Phelsuma sundbergi ladiguensis pair haven't been getting along. I've gotten five eggs from them so far this year, two of which have already hatched. The male is getting really zealous in his overtures towards the female. What started out as little nips here and there have turned into knock down drag out brawls with both animals dropping to the bottom of the cage and tearing pieces of skin off each other. I decided to separate them, but needed to construct a new vivarium. I had my camera handy and took a few pics of the process (the pictures of each step are attached):
Step 1. I decided to create a vivarium with a false bottom, because I wanted the plants in the vivaria to do well and compliment the day gecko. I have found that a moist air space below the plant's roots is healthier for the plants, creates an aerobically bioactive soil, and allows excess liquid animal waste to flush from the soil where it can be siphoned out easily. I purchased a 29 gallon Zilla sliding screen lid glass tank and a 2' X 4' panel of light diffusion egg crate. I cut the egg crate to within the inside floor area dimensions of the tank.
Step 2. The egg crate was going to be used as the mezzanine for the false bottom, but because the size of the holes is too large to simply place soil on it without it falling through, I purchased a roll of nylon window screen to cover it.
Step 3. I measured a rectangle of the screen 1-1/2" larger in all dimensions than the the egg crate. This is critical to prevent soil from falling down below the mezzanine.
Step 4. I cut the screen using a box cutter.
Step 5. Next, I cut two 4" X 4" squares of nylon screen. One of these will be used as a cover element for the mezzanine screen where the lower level vent will be placed. The remaining one will cover the vent standpipe. The vent standpipe will be used to slip the siphon into when the reservoir below the mezzanine fills with water.
Step 6. Next, I marked fourteen 2-1/2" sections of 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe which will be used to support the mezzanine.
Step 7. I used a PVC pipe cutter to cut the pieces. This results in less mess than a conventional saw.
Step 8. Now, I cut a 5" section of 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe for the vent standpipe. It is important to make this standpipe as deep as your intended soil level and then at least one inch above.
Step 9. Next, I drilled 1/4" holes through all the cut sections of pipe, such that the holes were approximately 1/2" from one end of the cut pipe section. This hole will be used to secure the "feet" and "vent" to the mezzanine.
Step 10. I then took zip ties and ran them through the holes of the "feet" and arranged ten of the "feet" on the mezzanine to support the outer edge of the mezzanine.
Step 11. Next, I added four more feet to support the interior, and routed the zip ties of each foot through the mezzanine and back down to the foot, threading the male part of the zip tie into the female portion, cinched them down, and cut the excess tail of the zip tie.
Step 12. Now I placed the nylon screen on the mezzanine with the feet down and arranged it so that it had 1-1/2" overshoot on all sides. I then located where I wanted the standpipe to be mounted, and cut an X into the nylon screen to allow the standpipe to slip through.
Step 13. Next, I removed the nylon screen and secured the standpipe to the mezzanine using a zip tie. Then I returned the nylon screen and fit the screen flush to the mezzanine.
Step 14. Sometimes, the lizards will push the nylon back a little around the standpipe and make it down into the reservoir area below the mezzanine. To avoid this, I take one of the 4" X 4" squares that I cut earlier and cut a cross in it just large enough that it can be slipped over the standpipe and laid flat against the nylon screen already on the mezzanine.
Step 15. Then I secure the nylon piece in step 14 to the standpipe at its base using a rubber band. This seals the mezzanine at the standpipe base. Now I take the last remaining 4" X 4" square of nylon screen and fold it over the end of the standpipe and secure it using another rubber band. This will be removed whenever you want to siphon the reservoir, but must remain on the standpipe as long as any lizards are in the vivarium. Some folks use foam instead, but I prefer to have better air flow between the reservoir and the air in the vivarium (it keeps the reservoir from becoming stagnant).
Step 16. Now I inserted the assembly into the bottom of the tank such that the extra nylon screen sticks up from the mezzanine, and does not get tucked beneath it. This is important to maintain a proper seal.
Step 17. The next step is to prepare the substrate. I use a layer of Lekka (Clay encapsulated activated charcoal beads), but aquarium gravel and then a fine layer of activated charcoal can also be used. First wash the lekka or aquarium gravel thoroughly, or the water in the reservoir will be opaque.
Step 18. Before placing the Lekka on the nylon screen, I fold the corners of the screen like a military bed sheet, and hold the corner down as I pour the Lekka into the tank. The lekka should be smoothed out to create a level layer of about 1/2". If the lekka layer is too thick, your lizards may bring it to the surface if they do any digging.
Step 19. Next, I create a topsoil from coconut peat and sand. I mix the coconut peat and sand in a 10:1 volumetric ratio with the largest volume component being the coconut peat. The reasoning here is that the sand create small air spaces in the soil and prevents packing and settling of the peat. Packed peat wicks water, allowing the excessive growth of anaerobes and deliterious types of fungi.
Step 20. Place plants, bamboo, cork, and feeding dishes where desired. In my vivarium, I used a common hybrid florist's Guzmania bromeliad for a nesting area, Epipremnum aureum (Pothos), and Draceana fragrans cf. variegata. The addition of plants helps maintain air humidity, retain soil moisture, and remove ammoniacal compounds from the soil. The bamboo I used for nest and basking sites, and the cork bark as a resting site against the back of the tank.
My hope is that this new vivarium will create a comfortable place for the female Phelsuma sundbergi ladiguensis gecko to recouperate and contain enough visual barriers that the male can be introduced for small periods to maintain breeding activity.
Regards,
Dave
The same basic design and principles would work with numerous species of gecko also. I'm sure with slight changes you could use that for almost anything.