I prefer to use flexwatt to heat my enclosures when dealing with nonbasking species, I have yet to have a problem with geckos climbing onto the heated portions of the enclosure (usually the top rear for arboreal type enclosures).
With reduced open ventilation and this method of heat, I can very easily produce a mid 90s to 80degF gradient in a 20g vertical conversion aquarium through the day time in an area of the house that is never less than 72degF with a single section of 20w 11"x12" of the flexwatt I mentioned above.
Larger custom enclosures for older geckos in my case are 37.5g and use 11"x18" of flexwatt for heat at no more than 30w.
I am able to keep as much or as little humidity as I wish inside the enclosure with the use of an exhaust fan that runs off a humidistat. Without the fan humidity levels are nearly always 98% or above.
In most cases I keep the larger geckos single unless breeding, space has never been an issue in my experience. Though I do enjoy very large enclosures they are not always needed or practical.
It is important to always provide the correct temperatures, sometimes this means spending a bit more than you might like on heating the house or if possible a single dedicated reptile room.
I think reptiles in general are vastly more difficult to keep than any mammal, and considering that the species you are working with 60 anything is way too cool, certainly too low for the tokay. If a heating device were to fail, the temps would fall far below acceptable.
Maurice Pudlo
