100% Leopard Gecko Care Sheet - Geckos Unlimited

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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#62---Vitamin D/D3 Dosage Research......Douglas R. Mader DVM & Mark Burgess DVM

D toxicity.jpg
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  • Vet #1: The above scanned article was written by Douglas R. Mader, DVM.
  • Vet #2: Mark Burgess, DVM, has performed many lizard, gecko, and chameleon necropsies which determined that the cause of death was massive over-calcification of the soft tissues, so this isn't "just talk". Dr. Burgess once wrote a letter to the FDA in regards to Rep Cal's calcium with D3. It's from another forum so I'm unable to share it.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#63---Wooden Enclosures for Leopard Geckos

cricket4u ~

Due to the way air flows, there should be ventilation low in the cool end & higher in the warm end. Unfortunately blocking off some mesh top (when there's only ventilation on top) to retain humidity increases poor air circulation. This is what I'm saying.

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https://beanfarm.com/collections/heating/kane-heat-mats
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#64---Why won't leos chase crickets? . . . . . . cricket4u -- June 2013
  • If they're too exposed, not enough furnishings, they may be afraid to chase the cricket.
  • If there's too much noise in the background, they may be afraid to chase the cricket.
  • If it's not warm enough, (aside from the warm hide) they may fail to chase the cricket.
  • If they're are not well hydrated, they will have poor feeding response, no energy to chase the cricket.
  • If the cricket is too large, they may feel intimidated by the cricket.
  • If the cricket is too small, they will have trouble seeing it, they won't chase it.
  • If the cricket is dusted and your substrate is paper towel, they may not see it.
  • If the gecko is overweight, they can become lazy and won't chase the cricket.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#66---Leo not eating? . . . . . . acpart (2009 & 2010), cricket4u (2013), & kholtme (2015)

Is your leo really a female? IF she is approaching 1 year old, there's a good chance "gecko puberty" is setting in. That might cause her to stop eating.

["Norbert is actually female."]

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acpart/Aliza
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cricket4u:

"Leos are very greedy and normally eat right away if everything is set up properly. However, I know there are exceptions. Try switching the hides. (The Exo-Terra hide is more secure and may be the reason. If he's not utilizing the heat, chances are he may not eat.) If that does not work, lower the temp as Elizabeth suggested. You may want to cover the sides of the glass so that he will feel more secure."
  • Improper temps---air temps too hot or too cold
  • Improper humidity---too dry is most common
  • Stress---too much handling---lack of hides or not enough---cagemate bullying, cage too small, et cetera......
  • Repetitious Diet---variety is important
  • Spoiled food---upset stomach or simply a bad experience (common with superworms)
  • Food offered at the wrong time of day---lights on
  • Wrong size prey---too big or too small
  • Improper photoperiod
  • Prey not recognized---leo needs moving prey to elicit feeding response
  • Malfunctioning heating equipment---goes unnoticed---should be checked daily
  • UTH is too warm---unregulated---gecko avoids the warm spot, therefore will not eat (need thermostat)
  • Most common of all CHEAP thermometers => false temp readings
  • Too much calcium causing constipation and/or loss of appetite
  • Parasites
  • Infection
  • Metabolic---calcium or vitamin deficiency
  • Impaction
  • Dehydration
  • Pain from an injury or otherwise"
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Click GU kholtme's (Kyle's) sticky: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/78187 Leopard geckos food and feeding issues
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#68---Enigma Syndrome Information

acpart (Aliza): "Enigma syndrome symptoms: circling (walking in a tight circle), stargazing (staring up with neck bent frequently), general clumsiness, falling over on the back when trying to walk."

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It's best NOT to breed your leo if he/she has the Enigma Syndrome.

"Understand that an enigma without symptoms showing still carries the genes for neurological disorder, so a perfectly fine looking enigma could very easily have enigma syndrome in their offspring.

"To add to that, many folks have thought their enigma was symptom free...until they bred their gecko. With added stress, their perfectly fine looking enigma started having enigma syndrome after being gravid. So while yours may look normal now, the symptoms can show up at any time.

"I know people don't like to hear no, so I'm not here saying not to breed your enigma. They are your pets and you should be responsible for them, I'm not gonna tell you what to do. But I am going to warn that your beautiful, normal acting engima leopard gecko may very well start acting bad once you start breeding her. And you may very well get offspring with enigma syndrome, some severe enough that you'll have to cull. So please do think about it before breeding an enigma. I know they are beautiful leopard geckos, I so wish they did not have neurological disorders because I'd LOVE to own them and breed them. But alas, I can't feel good about breeding geckos with genetic defects. And the thought about having to cull young life kills me."

Thanks for posting, Mardy (July 2013)
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#69---Minimum Leopard Gecko Enclosure Dimensions......cricket4u -- July 2013

"Minimum requirements for one leo alone are:

4x's as long as the whole gecko
3x's as wide
2x's as high

Each gecko should have at least 20% free walking space without having to climb over furniture.

A 40 gallon is not appropriate for 2 leos. 6 hides are recommended for 2 leos. That cuts down on floor space. Leos should never be forced to share hides. That has lead to poor thermoregulation and health problems in many geckos."
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#70---Why are 10 gallon kits inadequate for leopard geckos?......Muffins94-Aug 2013

"10 Gallon ReptiHabitat? Leopard Gecko Kit

These are the products included:
  • 10 Gallon Terrarium (20"x10"x12") with sliding screen top.
  • ReptiSand® (Desert White, 10lb)
  • Combo Repti Rock Food and Water Dishes (small)
  • Analog Reptile Thermometer
  • Combo Mini Deep Dome Lamp Fixture
  • Day/Night Reptile Heat Bulbs (60w)
  • Beginner's Guide to Leopard Geckos
  • ReptiSafe® Water Conditioner (2.25 OZ)
  • Zoo Med's Repti Calcium™ (sample)
  • Zoo Med's ReptiVite™ (sample)
While kits seem like a good first buy, honestly they turn out not be. Here are my concerns with this kit:
1) Tank size - a 10 gallon is rather small. Contrary to what pet stores preach, a leopard gecko should not be housed in a 10 gallon. It is just too small. It will not establish the right temperatures and thermal gradient. It also doesn't provide nearly enough room for all hides needed and leg room. The minimum size you will need to provide your gecko is a 20 gallon LONG tank, which is 30 inches long.

2) Reptisand - leopard geckos honestly do not to well housed on sand. Babies in particular. They can be rather messy eaters and eat the sand while catching prey. Some will simply just eat the sand out of randomness at times. This sand can create impaction, which usually proves to be fatal. If you have your new pal's best interest at heart, ditch the sand and use tile, paper towels, etc.

3) Analog thermometer - these tend to read exceptionally wrong. They are honestly a piece of junk. You will need three thermometers, digital with probes are the best.

4) Heating/lighting system - while leopard geckos do benefit from warm air temps, your main concern with proper heating is to give them belly heat. To do this, you will need an under tank heater (UTH) connected to a thermostat. They also need a photoperiod, 10-12 hours of day, then the rest night. You can do this simply by providing light in the room by opening blinds on a window. However don't place the tank in front of the widow. Direct sun can kill your gecko, because it overheats his/her tank! Or you could use the daylight bulbs, however those tend to heat up hot so monitoring the temps is needed. If extra heat is needed, that's where your heat bulbs come in.

I know it's a lot we are telling you, however it is for your geckos well-being. When I first got my gecko, I did buy a kit. Many of us did, and we learned the hard way that there is a lot missing from them. It's cheaper and smarter to just buy everything you need separate and ditch the kit. Hope this helped :)."

Thanks to Muffins94 (Merissa Banta)
29 August 2013
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#71---The Importance of Regular Fecal Exams

FECAL EXAMS FOR REPTILES
"A microscopic exam of the feces is recommended for all reptile patients every six months. Why?
  1. All reptiles have some gastrointestinal parasites, even when captive bred and raised--the housing conditions at breeding and distributor facilities promote continual infection (high populations/crowding, young growing animals under stress, imperfect sanitation).
  2. Parasites will multiply in the gut and environment of a healthy reptile, and will over time exceed the "carrying capacity" for the number of parasites that the animal can handle and still remain healthy. The animal will become dehydrated and nutritionally debilitated very quickly when this happens. The stress of treatment and dying parasites in the gut can overwhelm a patient, and especially the younger/smaller animals will frequently not survive treatment. This is why it is so crucial to monitor the parasite load, so that treatment can begin while the animal is strong enough to tolerate it.
  3. Zoonotic potential: "zoonosis" = A disease that can be transmitted from animals to humans. While proper hygiene is critical when handling reptiles because of Salmonella, this goes for parasites as well. Increased fecal shedding of parasites by the pet means increased risk to the owner.
How to collect a sample?
  • A freshly passed stool sample is always preferable and can be collected from water as well.
  • Collect sample with feces portion (white portion is not feces, this is urate, a solid form of urine produced by birds and reptiles), place in a sealed plastic container (ziploc bag, film cannister, etc.), and place in refrigerator until it can be delivered to the clinic. The best samples are the freshest, they start to lose diagnostic value immediately, but especially after 24 hours.
If the sample is positive
  • We will contact you regarding treatment necessary.
  • You will need to completely clean and disinfect the reptile's housing, including discarding any items that are porous or permeable.
  • Follow the prescribed treatment instructions exactly. Missed or incomplete doses are as bad as none at all as they can result in drug resistance by any surviving parasites. Don't hesitate to ask us for help in administering difficult medication (pets are like kids, some are easy to medicate and some are not!).
  • Our whole reason for being here is to keep your special friends in the best health possible! possible!"
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#72---Three Common Causes of Thin Tail, Anorexia, Lethargy, et cetera

"Impaction (hence the advice to remove sand, which, while certain kinds can be used, is strongly recommended against, especially for young geckos, because it poses a notorious impaction risk. Leos are clumsy hunters, and it is not unusual for them to wind up with a mouthful of substrate when hunting. As well, calcium sand is THE worst type of sand that can be used with any leopard geckos (and reptile species). Many keepers have even fought to have it banned for sale because of the risks associated with it. As for leos, they are known to lick calcium from a bowl as needed, so calcium sand is just temptation. In cases where sand can be used, a playsand/soil combination is recommended as one of the safest options). Impaction is not always obvious. You have to examine husbandry and care (low temperatures and dehydration will contribute to this), and it often requires a vet visit to positively identify. In some cases, say sand impaction, you can sometimes feel a hard lump in the lower abdomen. You can also check the lower abdomen for a very dark patch. However, in many cases, a physical exam will not yield results. X-rays are often required. Impaction doesn't occur overnight; it builds up in the system until it forms a blockage, and then you have a medical emergency on your hands.

Illness (e.g. parasites)

Stress/injury

If this were me, I would be making a vet visit ASAP. In your descriptions, there are causes for concern. The advice provided is legitimate, and excellent for long-term care, but I've rarely seen a gecko in the condition yours is in who can be treated successfully at home without veterinary intervention. If any of the three situations I've mentioned above are the cause of the anorexia and depleted fat reserves, there will be no "getting her to eat". She needs treatment first and foremost, as all of these conditions have put her off eating, and for good reason. At best, force-feeding her will only exacerbate the problem.

Remember that anyone and their dog can be a breeder. Being one does not make them an "expert" in care. Having a gecko long-term "that has never had a problem" is not necessarily indicative of good care either. The best advice I can give, now that you've been provided with options, is do some research yourself so you can decide for yourself if your care is adequate."

~Cassi~
cassicat4
6 September 2013
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#73---How to configure heat cables?......kholtme -- Aug 2015

The first ~6 feet of heat cables are NOT heated.

Kyle shares his experience adding heat cable to his leo Gaz's 40 gallon breeder enclosure (36 x 18 x 17 inches). He used 39 feet of heat cables. His instructions and pictures cover it all! :D

Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/posts/450928 Reptile heat cable

  • 20150831_220607.jpg
    Before with an 11 x 17 inch under tank heat mat

  • 20150831_223625.jpg
    After with 39 feet of heat cable
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February 2017
The transition from warm side to cool side will be more gradual if the heat cables are configured like this red "cable" is.

Of course the red cables would be placed closer together and there would be more loops. This is the best a cell phone drawing could do.

16473552_750768792702_6750947765179603186_n.jpg

In a 70*F room the 90*F temperature measured right on top of the substrate beneath the warm dry hide quickly plummets to 70*F (or to the room temperature) say 2 inches away from the heat mat towards the cool end.
 
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Riverside Reptiles

Riverside Reptiles

Administrator (HMFIC)
Elizabeth Freer said:
"I will share what I feel works best for 20 to 55 gallon tanks. Lighting from a distant window will not provide a proper photoperiod especially during the winter. A blue bulb or a CHE is very unnatural during the day. Heat and light should come from the same source. You can use both a day bulb (very low watt) just for lighting and a CHE for heating purposes next to each other. Or you can also use a bulb alone which serves both purposes. If used alone, I would recommend a bulb which is wider on the bottom and is coated with neodymium (helps reduce glare). The leos are sleeping during this time anyway. Here is an example:

65R30/FL/120V/NEODYMIUM E26 BASE, NEODYMIUM BULB, NEODYMIUM FLOODS, FULL SPECTRUM LIGHTING, FULL SPECTRUM BULBS, 65 WATT R30 NEODYMIUM FLOOD You can find the same type at your local home improvement store such as Home Depot or Lowes.

For November the daylight hours should be provided as follows:

Pakistan Daylight Hours in November -- Timebie

Just make sure to place it on a dimmer for some temp control or buy the perfect wattage if your room temperature remains stable."

Last edited by cricket4u; 4 Nov 2013 at 02:25 PM.
Click to expand...

This information is sadly misinformative in several ways.

A CHE is NOT unnatural during the day AT ALL. Even on cloudy days in nature, heat comes from above as well as below. Heat coming from a source other than a light has absolutely no negative affect.

Also, a "dimmer switch" in general is a very poor choice (and to some degree actually dangerous) for heat control. A dimmer cannot monitor or change if the temps get too high or too low. This can result in severe overheating or under heating and often times death of the animal if a sudden temp change occurs in the room or if overheating or failure of the heat source occurs. This can even result in a fire. Only a thermostat will be effective in these situations where it is most vital. If you think that it can't happen to you, think again. It has happened time and again to herp keepers. It's important to keep safety in mind not just for your herps, but for yourself and your home as well.
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#76---Establishing Photoperiods for Leopard Geckos

DSC_0159.jpg
(click to enlarge)

dimmer.JPG

A photoperiod is all about mimicking the lighting a particular reptile would experience in its natural environment. Short of having an expensive computer-controlled system that tweaks the lighting second-by-second, well minute-by-minute anyway, we can only approximate this goal.

In November 2013 to better meet the crepuscular needs of my leopard gecko, I added some photoperiod lighting. Since then my leopard gecko Cha has been out & about more with her dawn-to-dusk-like lighting.
  • Place a low wattage bulb (15 watt standard incandescent bulb) inside a 5.5 inch diameter dome fixture in the center of the screen top & right next to the CHE.
  • Dim this 15 watt bulb to half power with a rheostat, so the bulb is actually putting out 7.5 watts.
  • The light from my photoperiod bulb is somewhat shaded by a tall silk palm tree in the center of the enclosure.
  • Some natural daylight via distant windows & a sliding glass door further tweaks those methods.
  • If you wish, vary the ON time monthly according to a leos' native habitat. For example, 11 hours ON for February is good.
  • Click: Sunrise Sunset Daylight Hours of Pakistan -- Timebie
Having an inadequate photoperiod may be why some leopard geckos go off food.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#77---Gecko Multivitamins -- August 2022 (update)

Reptile Multivitamins Containing Vitamin A Acetate (Retinol):
A wee bit of retinol on all feeders @ 1 feeding per week is required for healthy eyes & skin. Use vitamin D3 @ 1 feeding per week & plain calcium carbonate @ a 3rd feeding per week. IF a leo is down to 2 feedings per week, use ZM Reptivite withOUT D3 + ZM Repti Calcium with D3 for your 2 weekly supplements.
  1. Zoo Med Reptivite multivitamins withOUT D3
  2. Zoo Med Reptivite multivitamins with D3
  3. Fluker's Reptile Vitamins: Contains vitamin A acetate (retinol), beta carotene, & vitamin D3
    61IRODg5oSS._AC_SL1500_.jpg 61br5P8bkPS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
    (click to enlarge)​
  4. Repashy's Calcium Plus multivitamins: Contains vitamin A acetate (retinol), beta carotene, & vitamin D3

Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3


Zoo Med Repti Calcium (plain calcium carbonate) & NOW plain calcium carbonate
repticalciumwd3.jpg​
(click to enlarge)​

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I use and highly recommend Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 + Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3 (2 separate containers).

Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3 (Link: https://zoomed.com/reptivite-without-d3/)
Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins with D3
  • vitamin D3: 22,907 IU/kg, 10,390 IU/pound
  • vitamin A acetate (retinol): 220,264 IU/kg
Both Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins contain these amounts of calcium carbonate and phosphorus:
  • calcium carbonate: 25.9-29% (OR 24.9-28% ?)
  • phosphorus: 10.6%
I prefer Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins, because they're chiefly multivitamins with a good dose of precipitated calcium carbonate, but without added protein, et cetera.

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VetArk's Nutrobal all-in-one multivitamins (includes vitamin D3)

Nutrobal multivitamins contain a 46:1 ratio of calcium : phosphorus! 🍌

Lightly dust with Nutrobal at 1 feeding per week and with PLAIN calcium carbonate without vitamin D3 at another 1-2 feedings per week depending upon the age of your gecko.

Contents per gram:
200 mg calcium & 150 IU/gm (150,000 IU/kg) vitamin D3, plus vitamins A C E K B1 B2 B6 B12 folic, nicotinic & pantothenic acids, biotin choline niacin and minerals P Na Fe Co I Mn Zn Se Cu.


"Nutrobal has been the top selling calcium balancer supplement in Europe for years. Peter formulated it 25 years ago (1992)."

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Repashy's Calcium Plus all-in-one multivitamins (includes retinol, beta carotene, & vitamin D3)
Click: Repashy Calcium Plus (3 oz Jar) FREE SHIPPING - Calcium Plus Supplements | Josh's Frogs

"Our “All-in-One” Insect Dusting Powder provides essential vitamins, minerals and trace elements. Featuring both Retinol and Carotenoids as sources of Vitamin A.

"INFORMATION: Calcium Plus was developed to increase the nutritional value of insects as they are fed to all insectivores, transforming insects into a food item that has an optimal calcium/phosphorus ratio, as well as balanced levels of vitamins, minerals, and trace elements.

"INGREDIENTS: Calcium Carbonate, Dried Kelp, Cellulose (as carrier), Brewer’s Yeast, RoseHips, Calendula Flower, Marigold Flower Extract, Phaffia Rhodozyma Yeast, Paprika Extract, Spirulina Algae, Turmeric, Salt, Potassium Citrate, Magnesium Gluconate, Canthaxanthin, Calcium Propionate and Potassium Sorbate (as mold inhibitors), Natural Flavoring, Lecithin, Rosemary Extract and Mixed Tocopherols (as preservatives), Vitamins (Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D Supplement, Choline Chloride, Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin, Beta Carotene, Pantothenic Acid, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex, Folic Acid, Biotin, Vitamin B-12 Supplement).

"GUARANTEED ANALYSIS: Crude Protein min. 2%, Crude Fat min. 0.2%, Crude Fat max. 0.6%, Crude Fiber max. 1%, Moisture max. 8%, Ash max. 35%, Calcium min. 17%, Calcium max. 20%, Phosphorus min. 0.6%, Vitamin E min. 2,000 IU/lb, Vitamin D min. 20,000 IU/lb, Vitamin A min. 200,000 IU/lb. Total Carotenoids min. 500 mg/lb.

"DIRECTIONS: Use with every insect feeding. Best applied by placing insects in a plastic bag or container with Calcium Plus and shake to lightly coat insects. Feed insects to your reptiles shortly thereafter. To maximize the nutritional value of insects, use this product with Repashy’s SuperLoad and Repashy’s HydroLoad. Refrigeration will extend product life."

"MADE IN USA"

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Comparisons: To convert IU/lb ------>IU/kg use:

"Repashy's Calcium Plus
Guaranteed Analysis: Crude Protein min. .2%, Crude Fat min. .2%, Crude Fiber max. 4%, Moisture max. 8%, Calcium min. 17%, Vitamin A min. 200,000 IU/lb, Vitamin D min. 20,000 IU/lb, Vitamin E min. 2,000 IU/lb."


"Repashy's Calcium Plus LoD
Guaranteed Analysis: Crude Protein min. .2%, Crude Fat min. .2%, Crude Fiber max. 4%, Moisture max. 8%, Calcium min. 17%, Vitamin A min. 80,000 IU/lb, Vitamin D min. 8,000 IU/lb, Vitamin E min. 800 IU/lb."


"Repashy's Calcium Plus HyD
Guaranteed Analysis: Crude Protein min. .2%, Crude Fat min. .2%, Crude Fiber max. 4%, Moisture max. 8%, Calcium min. 17%, Vitamin A min. 400,000 IU/lb, Vitamin D min. 40,000 IU/lb, Vitamin E min. 4,000 IU/lb."

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Fluker's Reptile Vitamin with Beta Carotene -- all-in-one multivitamins contains vitamin A acetate (retinol), beta carotene, & vitamin D3

Click: https://www.chewy.com/flukers-reptile-vitamin-beta/dp/126187?utm_id=27615258&msclkid=9c655f042933188135300103dc1cdb22&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping-Product Targets-Consumables&utm_term=1100005111899&utm_content=Fluker's

Guaranteed Analysis:
VITAMINS PER POUND
  • Beta Carotene 500,000 mcg (proformed vitamin A)
  • Vitamin A 50,000 IU/pound (preformed vitamin A acetate -- retinol)
  • Vitamin D3 10,000 IU/pound
  • Vitamin E 100 IU
  • Vitamin C 1,000mg
  • Folic Acid 15mg
  • Thiamine (B-1) 400mg
  • Riboflavin (B-2) 250mg
  • Niacin 1,500mg
  • Pyridoxine (B-6) 250mg
  • Vitamin B-12 1,750mcg
  • Biotin 200mcg
  • Pantothenic Acid 150mg
  • Vitamin K 2mg
  • Rutin 7.5mg
  • Para-Aminobenzoic Acid 500mg
  • Bioflavonoids 25,000mcg
  • Hesperidin ...25,000mcg
MINERALS PER POUND
  • Calcium 19.8%
  • Phosphorus 9.9%
  • Iodine 18mg
  • Iron 1,750mg
  • Magnesium 45mg
  • Copper. 75mg
  • Zinc 150mg
  • Manganese 150mg
  • Potassium 750mg
  • Sulfur 500mg
  • Salt 600mg
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Fluker's Liquid vitamins or Fluker's Liquid calcium -- Do not use!
One keeper's leopard gecko actually spit out crickets when these supplements were used.

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Rep-Cal's Herptivite multivitamins (blue label). Rep-Cal's Herptivite multivitamins only contain pro-formed vitamin A (beta carotene) instead of pre-formed vitamin A acetate (retinol). So Vitamin A deficiency could result if the gecko does not get a little retinol from another source. The directions state that Herptivite should be mixed 1:1 with Rep-Cal's Calcium with D3.

Rep-Cal's Calcium with D3 (pink label) contains 400,000 IU/kg of D3! Rep-Cal's D3 Calcium contains 17x more D3 than does Zoo Med's D3 Repti Calcium!

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Exo Terra supplements
Exo Terra produces inferior supplements. Exo Terra multivitamins contain very little calcium carbonate per dose.

Exo Terra multivitamins only contain proformed vitamin A (beta carotene) instead of preformed vitamin A acetate (retinol). Research has shown that chameleons cannot metabolize beta carotene directly. They need a little vitamin A acetate to get things started.

Click: Exo Terra : Multi Vitamin / Multi Vitamin Powder Supplement

Exo Terra multivitamins
  • no vitamin A acetate
  • only beta carotene
  • fall short on vitamins
  • missing B12
  • lack much calcium
Exo Terra calcium + D3
  • made from oyster shell calcium instead of pure precipitated calcium carbonate
  • contains dextrose
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Tetrafauna ReptoCal -- This is a multivitamin. It contains more than calcium + vitamin D3.

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Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-All Indoor calcium/mineral supplement (contains vitamin D3)
vitamin D3: 4,400 IU/kg
"INGREDIENTS:
Calcium Carbonate, Dextrose, Zinc Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Magnesium Oxide, D-Activated Animal Sterol (source of Vitamin D-3 Miner-All Indoor only), Iron Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Ethyione Diamine Dihydriod ide,Cobalt Sulfate, Sodium Selenite, Iron Oxide, Natural Berry flavors

"TRACE ELEMENTS (from aquatic naturally grown aquatic vegetation):
Sulfur, Aluminum, Silicon, Copper, Bromine, Barium, Tellurium, Yttrium, Sodium, Lanthanum, Uranium, Neodymium, 44 Cerium, Titanium, Vanadium, Niobium, Dysporosium, Gadolinium, Erbium, Ytterbium, Germinium, Praseodymium, Samarium, Thallium, Scandium, Rubidium, Nickel, Holmium, Tin, Thorium, Europium, Terbium, Palladium, Gallium, Chromium, Lutecium, Thulium, Tungsten, Antimony, Cesium, Bismuth, Rhodium, Tantalum, Rhenium, Osmium, Iridium."

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Nekton-Rep multivitamins


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Last edited:
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#78---Update pending ----> "Locusts: Nutritional Comments"

29 July 2017: Current nutritional information regarding locusts (and other insects) hopefully coming soon . . . . . .

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Consider ALL comments on this thread: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/72716 Leopard geckos food feeding issues locusts crickets
 
Last edited:
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#79---Beneficial "Pests"---natural mite solution: USA & UK links . . . . . . EF

Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/56581 Beneficial pests natural mite solution usa uk sources

"Arbico Organics is a very quick turnaround. They ship extremely fast and has every shipping option available to you. New England Herpetoculture has some great springtails and isopod selections as well."

Click: ARBICO Organics Gardening Supplies and Biological Pest Control Products
 
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