100% Leopard Gecko Care Sheet - Geckos Unlimited

Not open for further replies.

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#100---Shipping Tips for Geckos . . . . . . Elizabeth Freer -- July 2023 (update)

I use 72 hour UniHeat pads all the time to provide extra insurance in case geckos meet some delay.

I shipped 4 boxes in September/October 2013 using the 72 hours. All 7 geckos arrived in fine shape! In October 2014 I shipped 2.0 two year old Oedura castelnaui overnight via Reptiles Express. Both geckos arrived fine!

In October 2014 I enclosed a min-max Taylor digital thermometer inside the shipping box while I traveled to the FedEx Ship Center in Portland, Oregon. Maximum temperature when I opened the box to remove the digital thermometer was in the 80s F. That was 5 hours after activating the heat pack.

  • Departing & receiving temperatures between 55*F & 80*F. Check all potential hubs!
  • In 2013 FedEx told me that on time delivery was their first priority. That means our geckos/boxes could be sent anywhere!
  • Eliminate "unsupervised" ground transport as much as possible.
  • Activate heat pack 6 hours prior to sealing the 12 x 9 x 6 inch box. This allows the heat pack to reach it's peak temperature prior to leveling off!

    (click to enlarge)​

  • Use small Phillips screwdriver to poke one small hole through both the styrofoam & cardboard on one side of box to provide airflow.
  • Poke or solder ventilation holes around the sides of the plastic deli cup(s).
  • Add paper towel strips to each deli cup for cushioning.
  • Add gecko to deli cup.
  • Place gecko(s) inside cardboard box with 3/4 inch thick styrofoam panels. (1/2 inch thick styrofoam panels ARE minimum!)
  • Surround deli cup(s) with styrofoam packing peanuts to cushion it (them). Make sure your styrofoam peanuts don't dissolve in water.
  • Loosely wrap heat pack with one layer of paper towels -- "like an envelope".
  • Place the loosely wrapped heat pack several inches from the deli cup or between two deli cups.
  • Add styrofoam packing peanuts on top. Close box.
  • Tape top & bottom box flaps on both side edges with 1 strip of nylon-reinforced tape each rather than completing sealing off side flaps. That's 8 "side" tape strips for entire box.
  • Seal top & bottom centers with Scotch Heavy Duty Shipping Tape.
  • To allow a bit more ventilation, don't tape corners of box.
  • Use a shipping facilitator like Reptiles2You. The shipping prices will be better. Debbie Price offers excellent customer service!

For link 145 click: Shipping Guidelines for Geckos . . . . . . Elizabeth Freer -- July 2023 (update)

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#102---Particulate Substrates & Impaction Cautions for Leopard Geckos!
We think that impaction will never happen to our particular leopard geckos, but can we be 100% sure? Certainly there are cautions like avoiding particulate substrates until a leopard gecko reaches a certain age, avoiding calci-sand altogether, using feeding dishes, or whatever.

Impaction could happen by eating chitinous insects or worms. Impaction can happen by ingesting paper towels, sphagnum moss, or other warm humid hide substrates like Eco Earth's coco fiber. Impaction is more likely to happen with dehydrated geckos. The keeper always needs to be vigilant. :)

Roughly textured (~3/8 inch thick) ceramic, porcelain, and slate tiles are easy to keep clean! These tiles conduct heat from an UTH well. They eliminate substrate impaction, are attractive, permanent, and cheap.

When particulate substrates are used there is always S-O-M-E possibility of impaction. Who would be the loser?
  • How do we know when, maybe, a leopard gecko might ingest some substrate along with a bug or a worm that's escaped from a feeding dish?
  • How do we know when the usual aim might be a little off target?
  • How can we predict when a sudden noise in a room might startle a leopard gecko?
  • How do we know when, maybe, a leopard gecko is feeling "a bit under the weather" and eating does not proceed "as usual"?
Yes, there are many unknowns in life. Particulate substrates can be avoided. We are the winners! :D
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#103---Balancing Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 + Reptivite without D3

Some people fuss because Zoo Med's Reptivite contains some phosphorus. These are the reasons I don't fuss.

Reasons to ONLY use a wee pinch of no D3 (plain) Reptivite multivitamins 1x per week + very light dustings of Repti Calcium with D3 1x per week. The frequency of supplement dustings depends upon the diet one feeds insects and worms 24/7.
  • My vet recommends only a wee pinch of Zoo Med Reptivite multivitamins 1x per week.
  • In my experience, geckos seem to require ONLY a small amount of vitamin A acetate + other vitamins as long as their insects and worms are well fed.
  • Both Reptivite multivitamins (with and without vitamin D3) contain enough phosphorus to make the dusting levels roughly 2 parts calcium : 1 part phosphorus before you even consider the high phosphorus naturally contained in bugs. :(
  • Phosphorus impairs calcium absorption. The more phosphorus a supplement has, the less any calcium is absorbed by the bones.
  • Both Zoo Med Repti Calciums are phosphorus-free, so you can lightly dust for D3 without adding phosphorus. :)
  • Both Reptivite multivitamins (with & without D3) contain the same amount of calcium carbonate. (That's good!)
  • Vitamin D3 needs to be taken with food.
  • Calcium needs vitamin D3 in order to be absorbed. Dusting with plain calcium carbonate without giving vitamin D3 only helps if there is residual D3 inside your gecko.
  • Feed your bugs and worms the best dry diet you can afford! That builds strong feeder bodies. Consider light dustings of Reptivite multivitamins without D3 and Repti Calcium with D3 as secondary.
  • Some geckos don't like the taste of Reptivite multivitamins on their bugs.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/79534 Cork rounds drying geckos feetsies

Scroll to post 4 for GU billewicz's support of Scott Stahl, DVM and Zoo Med's ReptiVite™:

"My gut load mix includes paprika for Vitamin A. I also include carrot and dandelion greens for their moisture and other vitamins and nutrients. Plant-based is always more assimilable than manufactured supplements.

Speaking of which, Dr. Scott Stahl, the premiere reptile vet, highly recommends the ZooMed product, ReptiVite™. Originally formulated for zoos, it seems to work better than any other product I've tried including the Repashy supplements."
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#105---Yellow Urates: Potential Causes……DVM feedback -- Jan 2015

Contributed by a vet who also keeps leopard geckos:

"Urate color depends upon things like diet, health, et cetera. Generally urates are very white. More pigmented (especially green) urates can indicate an issue. It is possible that if the animal has not passed stool or urates for some time there can be a little staining of the urate portion of the waste products. I also think that this is sometimes the case if the stool is loose. Then there is a greater chance for pigments to bleed from feces to urates. If it is just little off-color I would keep an eye on it and if it is infrequent I wouldn’t worry. If we are talking dark yellow or green that's biliverdin and it implies that there is something more serious going on.

Reptiles lack an enzyme called biliverdin reductase that allows them to convert biliverdin to bilirubin (as mammals do). So their bile is green. If the liver cannot handle removing it from the bloodstream efficiently, levels can exceed the renal threshold and spill into the urates. That would result in the urates being a greenish yellow to green color. What confounds this is that there's some mixing of feces and urine/urates in the cloaca so that some fecal pigments can stain the urates a light yellow color."
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#106---Under tank heat mats (UTHs): Dimensions versus Wattages

If you have a choice with any UTH, I'd NOT get one that has adhesive. That's because reusing it could be a fire hazard. The internal wires might get damaged when it is removed from it's original position.

The actual dimensions of Fluker's 11 x 17 inch heat mats are 11 x 17 inches. The actual dimensions of UltraTherm 11 x 17 inch heat mats are 9.5 x 17 inches.

Snugly stick the UTH underneath the enclosure with heat resistant aluminum tape from most any hardware store.

Do NOT use any UTH underneath the tank IF using a wooden enclosure.

  • All Living Things 11 x 17.......24 watts
  • Ultratherm UTHs 11 x 17......22 watts
  • Flukers 11 x 17............24 watts
  • Hagen Exo Terra 11 x 17......25 watts

Elevate your tank off the enclosure at the tank's corners 1/4-1/2 inch. That provides required ventilation for your UTH! Otherwise heat will build up and could potentially cause a fire

The pads used on chair legs to prevent scratching the floor are one solution.

  • Consider the low Exo Terra enclosures that are just 12 inches high. :)
  • For a 24 x 18 inch enclosure consider a diagonal gradient. For instance, the warmest ground in the far left corner and the coolest ground in the near right corner. That can be achieved by "snaking" Zoo Med heat cables or Flexwatt heat tape from the far left corner to the near left and far right corners.
  • The Bean Farm has a pdf about Ultratherm UTHs on their site.
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#107---UVB lighting versus powdered D3 for leopard geckos?......Geckologist.tj

"Hi there, and welcome to the exciting, confusing, and at times downright frustrating world of keeping leopard geckos.

These are the facts to the best of my knowledge, and I hope they help you. If anyone has knowledge to the contrary, please feel free to correct me.

1) For the vast majority of time leopard geckos have been kept in captivity, it has been thought they don't really need the UV lights because they are nocturnal (actually, crepuscular if you want to get nitpicky).

2) Relatively recently, some people have started using UV lights based on the theory that leopard geckos would be exposed to low levels of UV radiation in the evenings and mornings in the wild.

3) There is limited research out there on the subject. Many people who do use UV lights disagree on how to use them.

4) Because this is a relatively recent trend and because technology behind the UV bulbs is evolving, to the best of my knowledge there have not been any comparisons of the health of UV-exposed leopard geckos vs. non-UV-exposed leopard geckos over the course of their lifetimes.

5) Of my three leopard geckos, each has their own tolerance for light in general. With that in mind, if I used a UV light all three would be exposed to it for different amounts of time. How do I know which ones are getting enough and which are getting too much?

6) For many years now, leopard geckos have been successfully kept without UV lights into their late teens and even older.

Conclusion: I prefer to use a good calcium powder with D3 and forgo the UV lights until there is more sound research and methodology behind the use of UV bulbs for leopard geckos. I prefer to have something a little more substantial than a handful of hobbyist's opinions, even though they could be right.

I hope that helps, and I hope others share their thoughts. Good luck."

Click, then scroll to post #2: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/posts/440619 Thoughts uv 20 gal habitat

[With much appreciation to Geckologist.tj......Feb 2015]

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#108---Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs)

Click: HerpSupplies.com - Reptile Supplies, Vivarium, Reptile Accessories, Reptile Habitat, Reptile Lighting, Zoo Med, Reptile Supply, Lizard Supplies, Reptarium, Rep-Cal, Flukers, Reptile Bedding, Fresh-Air Habitat, Reptile Heat Pads Still carries Pearlco 100s and 150s???

HerpSupplies.com gives superb customer service!

Pearlco used to manufacture top-of-the-line Ceramic Heat Emitters (30, 60, 100, & 150 watts). I have used the 30 watt & 100 watt sizes. Those bulbs are roughly the same size. Standard enclosed overhead domes gave both these "smallish" bulbs ample screen clearance. The 30 watt CHEs may no longer be available.

Pearlco is a world wide leader in infrared heating tools designed specifically for animal husbandry. Their products are recognized by zoos all over the globe as being efficient & reliable sources of infrared heat. Pearlco heat emitters generate heat with no visible light, & are available in a wide variety of sizes to suit the specific needs of your animals.

Note: "Pearlco" brand ceramic bulbs are now packaged by Solaris??? Newtek??? They are from the exact same facility & are the exact same quality as they always have been, but have been bought out by a new name."

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

April 2015 addendum:
I replaced my dead 100 watt Pearlco CHE that lasted 4+ years with an All Living Things (PetSmart brand) 150 watt CHE. When placed inside my Fluker's 10 inch diameter clamp lamp BOTH the Pearlco and Creature Comfort brand 150 watt CHEs touched the screen! :(
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#109---Vionate powder & Osteo-Form SA powder

30 December 2019: I may be updating this article. Miracle Care Pets, the current producer of Vionate, can be found @ MiracleCarePet.com, 800-635-2044, located in Dayton, Ohio.

((I don't recommend either Vionate powder or Osteo-Form SA powder.))
  • It's been years since Vionate and Osteo-Form SA powder were commonly used (except perhaps by breeders)!
  • Now we have reptile-specific multivitamins and calcium with D3 products.
Click: https://www.drugs.com/vet/osteo-form-sa.html

Vionate powder contains
  • vitamin A palmitate = 220,000 IU/kg
  • vitamin D3 (D-activated animal sterol) = 22,000 IU/kg
  • calcium = 9.5--11.4%
  • phosphorus = 4.79% (47,828 mg/kg)
Zoo Med's ReptiVite™ with D3 powder contains
  • vitamin A acetate (retinol) = 220,264 IU/kg
  • vitamin D3 = 10,390 IU/kg, 22,907 IU/pound
  • calcium = 24.9% min, 28% max
  • phosphorus = 10.6% minimum
Osteo-Form SA powder contains
Guaranteed Analysis Per 350 grams:
  • Vitamin A palmitate = 328,571 IU/kg, 115,000 IU (?)
  • Vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol) = 32,857 IU/kg, 11,500 IU (?)
  • Calcium = 27.0% min, 32.0% max
  • Phosphorus = 16.5% minimum
Ingredients: Dicalcium phosphate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, polysorbate 80, citric acid, ascorbic acid, (a preservative), vitamin A palmitate and cholecalciferol.
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#111---Repashy's Calcium Plus: vitamin D content + forms of vitamin D . . . . . . Hilde

29 June 2015:

(click to enlarge)

"There are several forms of vitamin D.

"Vitamin D without a subscript (the tiny 3 behind the D, for example) refers to either D2 or D3 or both. Either form will be converted to a biologically active form, one that the body uses whatever it needs the vitamin D for.

"The two major physiologically relevant forms of vitamin D are D2 (ergocalciferol) and D3(cholecalciferol). Vitamin D3 is photosynthesized in the skin of vertebrates by the action of solar ultraviolet (UV) B radiation. Vitamin D and D2 are processed in the body to produce whatever form of vitamin D is needed - so as long as there is some vitamin D present, and the liver and kidneys are fully functional, then vitamin D will be converted to the appropriate form.

"The whole process is rather complicated, this is just a quick and simple summary. If you want to look into it in detail, Google will have the answers for you.

"Saying there is vitamin D in the supplement is all that's needed, the body will make the other forms. If you have a sick animal, compromised liver or kidney function, then it's better to supply the specific form of vitamin D. It is assumed you're using it for a healthy animal, if it's sick, you'd be taking it to a vet who could prescribe the appropriate form according to the gecko's condition.

"The supplement in question says it contains all the essential vitamins, minerals and trace elements. Since this is a very reputable product, it's quite safe to assume that it also means it includes the appropriate form(s) of vitamins, including vitamin D."

Our geckos appreciate your feedback, Hilde!

Click for thread: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/78950 Calcium
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#112---Cricket Care Guidelines II . . . . . . April 2023 (update)

Dry Insect Diet: A 24/7 dry insect diet should contain (~16% protein, less than 5% fat, moderate fiber) + vitamin D3, vitamin A acetate (retinol) or vitamin A palmitate, & vitamin B12!

Finely grind all these pellets in a Krups coffee/spice grinder or place the pellets in a plastic bag & pound them with a hammer.
  • ***Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food*** OR
  • Here's a healthy diet/bedding for mealworms/superworms & bugs too! After you get mealworms, replace the bedding they come in with already ground Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload(1-775-359-1085). Keep your mealworms at room temperature & in 6 quart plastic Sterilite tubs with bedding & ventilation, NOT in the refrigerator.
  • (Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed) OR
  • Purina Layena Crumbles
Once a day (for 3/8 inch crickets & older), thoroughly moisten 2 sheets of Scott's Original Blue Shop Paper Towels & wring them out. Then lay these wet paper towels over half egg flats to provide moisture for crickets & dubia. IF your crickets are younger, moisten paper towels more often.
Diatomaceous Earth Alert!
Some chicken feeds contain diatomaceous earth. If diatomaceous earth is in a product, it should be listed on the label!

I only recommend Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed or Purina Layena Crumbles poultry feed, because they don't contain diatomaceous earth. If you cannot find those in the USA, don't buy poultry feed.

"Diatomaceous earth is a natural antiparasitic for bird flocks. If ingested by insects, diatomaceous earth is fatal. The microscopic diatoms cut up insects' insides & cause a nasty death. It is also used topically for insect infestations as it will cut through exoskeletons or soft bodied worms & cause "bleed out." I have not read of anyone accidentally using a chicken feed with it in there & what effects it had on a colony of roaches/crickets/mealworms, et cetera, but I believe better safe than sorry & to warn people in case someone wants to use a different brand."

Quoted from hmarie186 -- 1 February 2015
NEVER toss uneaten insects or worms back in with the colony OR feed them to other geckos! This prevents bacteria, parasites, or diseases like cryptosporidosis from spreading. Always freeze (or otherwise destroy) all uneaten insects or worms from any gecko's enclosure.
By following these tips it's easy to keep your crickets alive & thriving 2 or more months past purchase:
  • Crickets live about 9 weeks. Good ventilation is crucial for long lives! Crickets also need lots of space & paper towels that are thoroughly moistened under the faucet daily. Squeeze out excess water!
  • Keep them at normal room temps (68-74*F, 20-23.3*C).
  • Unbox your new crickets as soon as they reach room temperature.
  • Keep insects in a 56 quart Sterilite plastic bin or a 10 gallon tank. [My 56 qt bins measure: 22 inches long x 16 inches deep x 11.75 inches tall (at the top of the bin).]
  • Place a small scoop of finely ground Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food, Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed, Purina Layena Crumbles, or already ground Professional Reptile's Pro Gutload dry diet on the bottom of the insect container. Also keep dry insect/worm diet in shallow ridged jar lids. Cover those lids with small sections of egg flats.
  • Empty crickets into container.
  • Place several cardboard (~5) half egg flats horizontally, back-to-back, front-to-front, & so on. This method gives crickets adequate space. The more space crickets have, the less they will die from overheating (heat encapsulation effect).
  • Providing Moisture for Crickets-- Crickets "drink" from damp paper towels.
    • Place 2 layers of Scott's Original Blue Shop Paper Towels on top of the egg cartons.
    • Once daily thoroughly moisten these paper towels under the faucet & squeeze out excess water.
    • Replace the wet paper towels on top of the egg cartons.
    • Add chopped high calcium/low phosphorus leafy greens (collard, mustard, turnip) or pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens in a small ridged lid next to the cricket food.
  • Keep the dry food dry to avoid mold & to keep vitamins & other nutrients viable.
  • Every so often use a small whisk broom to remove cricket feces & dead crickets.
  • Fluker Farms successfully ships crickets overnight in many temperatures withOUT heat packs.
  • Armstrong's Crickets suggests lightly roughing up the lower sides of cricket bins with sandpaper to give crickets more space to hang out. Cricket water dispensers & spare parts can be purchased from Armstrong's & Tractor Supply.
To check nutrient levels (calcium, phosphorus, et cetera) of many foods enter the particular food on the United States Department of Agriculture link: FoodData Central.
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#113---Gecko Time articles . . . . . . acpart (Aliza Arzt), editor -- March 2023 (update)

Many thanks to GU's acpart (Aliza) for continuing her informative email newsletter Gecko Time.

Gecko Time articles can be found by clicking Archives. All Aliza's articles are listed there by date. Each entry is a linked article. Search for "bio" & find 2 articles.
Gecko Time includes several articles on Lygodactylus williamsi, one by Maureen Kosinski (GU's hexantanz).

Exceptionally thorough FEEDER info shared by Aliza on 29 June 2021 (& Fruit Beetle Grubs ??): written by BambooZoo
Click: The Feeders ~ BUGS - *BambooZoo

Selected Gecko Time Issues:
22 October 2020: Aliza Artz

Click: Caring for Elderly or Terminally Ill Geckos: A Personal Reflection

2 April 2020: Aliza Artz

Click: Living with Crypto - a 3 year update

29 January 2019: Zach Brink

Click: Interview with Zach Brink of Josh's Frogs

5 June 2018: Zach Bartlett

Here's a different take on housing geckos that combines the best features of a tub and a rack.
Click: Improvements on a Tub

10 Oct 2017: Tony Gamble

Click: How do Geckos Determine Sex?

25 July 2017: Aliza Arzt

:( "Plague House" is Aliza's personal gecko nightmare with Cryptosporidiosis :(
Click: Plague House: A Breeder's Nightmare

23 May 2017: Aliza Arzt

Click: The Art of Raising Feeder Insects

14 March 2017: Aliza Arzt

Click: How to Sell Your Geckos Revisited

20 September 2016: Aliza Artz

Click: Interview with Peter Uetz about the Reptile Database

12 April 2016: Arjan van der Meer

Click: Sourmash for Mealworms

25 August 2015: Rachel Gratis

For those experienced leopard gecko keepers who wish to provide their leos with enriched environments, check out this article.
Click: Creating a Bioactive Leopard Gecko Setup

4 August 2015: Aliza Arzt

Click: Found!

9 April 2015: Aliza Arzt

Click: A Tale of Three Incubators

26 March 2015: Gregory Mertz, DVM

Click: Eyelid Dysecdysis in Leopard Geckos

2014: Lygodactylus williamsi: Learning from Failures

22 April 2014: Mark D. Finke, PhD

Click: http://www.geckotime.com/nutritional-value-of-commercially-raised-insects/

17 December 2013: Ben Bargen

Enigma syndrome symptoms: circling (walking in a tight circle), stargazing (staring up with neck bent frequently), general clumsiness, falling over on the back when trying to walk.
Click: Enigma Syndrome in Leopard Geckos: An Autosomal Dominant Disorder - Gecko Time - Gecko Time

29 October 2013: Kai-Uwe Volta, Julie Gibson, & Tom Wood (GU's Aquapimp)

Click: Three to Get Ready: Cat Geckos (Aeluroscalabotes felinus)

30 July 2013: Justin Morash, Oliver Kuepper, & Jon Boone

Click: Three to Get Ready: Pachydactylus

25 December 2012: Leann Christenson, Tony Terradas, & Julie Bergman

Click: Three to Get Ready: Phelsuma grandis

31 July 2012: Cory VanHoose, Derek Vera, & Sarah Dickenson

Click: Three to Get Ready: Paroedura picta

6 March 2012: Ivan Alfonso, DVM

Click: Vitamin A deficiency in Insectivorous Geckos

27 December 2011: Aliza Arzt

Click: How I Got Rid of Grain Mites

24 May 2011: Aliza Arzt
Click: The Yearly Cycle with Geckos

9 November 2010: Laney Simmons with Ivan Alfonso, DVM

Click: The Scoop on Poop

13 April 2010: Matthew Kammerer

Click: Beginner Breeder Basics: Comparing Incubation Mediums

20 April 2009: ProGeckos (Cody Castellanos)
(Professional Reptiles' Pro Gut load Dry Insect Diet)
Click: Breeding Superworms: A Guide to Raising and Breeding Superworms

~2009: Aliza Artz

Click: How to Vend at your First Reptile Show
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#114---Awesome Leo Hides Handmade with River Rocks . . . . . . GU's JessJohnson87

20151009_204350.jpg 20150923_214046.jpg 20151018_210934.jpg

"I found the container in my cabinet within the pile of containers I do not use to store food. I found a great sale on decorative rocks at Michael's! Got some DAP 100% silicone (aquarium safe of course), glued them sumbich's on, added a few festive flower arrangement leaves and BOOM, leo Ziggy approved. He loves that container more than his coke box I had cut up for him.

The DAP tube recommends 24-48 hours for curing and for letting the fumes dissipate."

Visuals of the entire process: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/posts/452086 Revamping food storage containers

Scroll to post #28 in this thread: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/78431
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#116---Proportional Thermostats

(1) Spyder Robotics thermostats including the Intro ($99) and the Intro+ ($109)

(2) HabiStat "pulse proportional" thermostats
Click: Habistat Pulse-Proportional Thermostat: Amazon.co.uk: Pet Supplies

"The lights on the front flash at different rates indicating the power being pulsed to the appliance is maintaining a constant temperature. During the day mine flash on/off at a ratio of 50/50 and as the temperature slowly drops at night they flash more regularly. In either case the temperatures are maintained. I measure them with two different thermometers and verify a couple of times each day with an handheld temp gun.

"I use two in the same Large Medium Exo Terra Terrarium (36 x 18 x 18 inches), one for my UTH (11 x 17 inches) and one for my CHE (150 watts) for my leopard gecko. Each one cost 40 GBPs so about 62 USDs or so, though it may very well be possible to find them cheaper. I bought a lot from one online store so got them from there while buying other products - Swell Reptiles."

"Basically these stats (once you tell them what temp you want) pulse only the electricity needed to maintain that exact temperature and no more or no less. That is different from being either on full power until 3 >/< degrees over and then off until 3 >/< under. A pulse proportional stat is reportedly ideal for things like CHEs. It extends their lifespan enormously but basically it is designed to offer a more constant temperature with little to no fluctuation."

Thanks to GU's Zux/Shane for his comments. :)
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#117 (& 60a)---Placement of UTHs & Heat Cables Inside Melamine/Wooden Leo Enclosures . . . . . . JIMI -- October 2015

JIMI's setup for her leo Theseus:

"I used ideas from post 60a as well and adapted them to my own viv. It's working very well for me. I have a heat cable sandwiched between two tiles and ventilated the space between the two tiles using 4 rubber feet I had left over from another UTH. I elevated the tiles using 4 glass cups and put decorative pebbles inside to make them look nicer. It just took a little creativity. :)"

image (1).jpg

image (4).jpg
Scroll below to post 3 for JIMI's info.

Click: https://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/threads/79712
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
7 September 2016 update:

"The raised platform has actually worked out pretty well for me! Like mecoat's leo, my leo Theseus really likes the dark space underneath. The ambient temperature underneath the platform is a couple degrees warmer than the cool side, so it gives him another option besides the 75F cool side. I use 18" x 18" (46 cm x 46 cm) porcelain tiles (less porous), which are a little bit more than 1/3 of the length of the enclosure. I attached a reptile heat cable underneath the top tile with foil tape that I've arranged so that part of the tile is in the 88-90F range and the other portion gives me temperatures around 86-88F. Using only the top tile, I found that the heat cable gave me some cold spots so I added the second tile to help insulate and distribute the heat more evenly across the tiles.

"I hope that was helpful and good luck with your new leo!"

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#118---Repashy's RescueCal+ (former product) . . . . . . Summer 2015

Repashy's RescueCal+ contains both calcium & magnesium.

Repashy's RescueCal+ instructions:
Liquid Calcium Supplement when mixed with water

"Our RescueCal + is a highly bio available and concentrated liquid calcium (when dissolved in water) supplement fortified with magnesium.

INFORMATION: A highly bio available and highly concentrated Liquid Calcium supplement (once dissolved in water) with added Magnesium and Electrolytes used to supplement animals with low blood calcium levels as a result of Calcium and/or Vitamin D deficiency. The only liquid Calcium on the market with added Magnesium (10:1 ratio).

INGREDIENTS: Calcium Lactate Gluconate, Magnesium Lactate, Sucrose, Potassium Citrate, Malic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate (preservative).

*** Analysis (Dry): Calcium 8.4%, Magnesium .825%, Sodium .32%, Potassium .23%, Chloride .34%, Sucrose 14%.
*** Analysis (when mixed to directions): Sucrose 40 mg / mL, Calcium 25 mg / mL, Magnesium 2.5 mg / mL, Sodium 1mg / mL, Potassium .7mg / mL, Chloride .1 mg / mL.

USAGE: Can be added to feed (as solution, or dry), water, syringe fed, or dropped into mouth. Use as prescribed by your Veterinarian. For oral use only. Solution is not injectable. Once mixed, solution should be discarded after 3 months.

Tips: 1 mL = 1 cc = 20 drops

DIRECTIONS: This product is designed to be mixed into a 30% solution. (3 g / 10 mL, 30 g / 100 mL, 300 g / L). You can mix only what you need but amounts less than 100 mL will require very accurate measurement. YOU WILL NEED A SCALE TO USE THIS PRODUCT ACCURATELY. Add half total desired volume of water to container, then add weighed amount of RescueCal+ to water while stirring, and then top off water to desired volume. It can take up to 30 minutes for the minerals to fully dissolve in water. Starting with HOT water will decrease this time but is not necessary.

Refrigeration will extend freshness!


Elizabeth Freer

Active member
#119---UVB Lighting for Leopard Geckos: Only with ~48 inch + long vivarium . . . . . . GU's JIMI

Exo Terra : Light Cycle Unit / Electronic Dimming Terrarium Lamp Controller

/\ "The unit above is the one I purchased and what I am considering repurchasing. I'd use it with a 15 watt Reptisun 5.0 UVB fluorescent tube. I was previously using a 15 watt Repti Glo 2.0 bulb, but to ensure that he was synthesizing D3 without the help of any supplement containing D3 cricket4u suggested that I switch to a stronger bulb. The dimensions of his vivarium are 48"l x 21"w x 24"h. The heated tile that the strip is positioned above is about 15" below the lamp and he has a raised tile that gets him about 5" closer."
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
14 November 2015:
"Unfortunately, I'm currently not using UVB lighting in my enclosure right now. You might recall that I purchased the Exo Terra light unit in attempts to find a new position for the tube, but when I received it the unit was not functional. :? I haven't purchased another unit yet, but I plan to hopefully soon. I've been looking into other options. I've been having a hard time finding dimmable units available here in the US! (if anyone is aware of any please let me know! :biggrin:)

"In the period that I did use it though, I did notice my leo make use of the light. I have a plant with broad leaves positioned near the strip and I frequently found him underneath it with his head and most of his body in the shade, but with some also exposed to the light. He has plenty of other hide options besides this plant. Even without the light I still catch him under this plant on occasion. Other ways he'd have some exposure to the light was by leaving some of his tail sticking out of the hide as he slept. He was eating very well, had regular bowel movements, and I think I also noticed an improvement in his activity levels and a brighter color.

"I agree, I don't think that it is a good idea to use a UVB light in a small tank, especially combined with a supplement containing vitamin D3. I personally prefer to use UVB because he has plenty of areas to completely escape the rays if he wishes to. It's weird that the vet suggested using UVB; I think he should have at least gone over bulb strength and proper use because serious damage can be caused by improper use and the dangerous bulbs that are available right now."
Last edited:
Not open for further replies.