Dubia care

CrestedRick

Active member
Ok, so after a few days of searching and emailing dubia breeders/sellers I think Ill be ordering Monday. Just a few questions, most of the people I look at buying from included "roach chow", I asked if this was just food or also served as a gutload as well. Has anyone actually found that these "roach chow" have actually been good or have you dumped that and used Repashys Bug Burger or simply feed fruit and veggie scraps?
 

Olimpia

New member
It depends, some of those roach chows are well formulated, you'd have to look at the ingredients used. But I've always preferred to feed my roaches a mix of commercial gutload (like Repashy Superload and/or Dinofuel, for example) and some additional fruit or veggie. If you use Bug Burger then you don't need to provide anything else as far as moisture.

I feed my bugs great food all the time, but I know that some people will feed them a basic diet to keep bugs alive and then separate out the ones for the next day and gutload them with great food. I guess it depends which strategy you want to use. I think it's better to keep them well fed all the time, to me it stands to reason that they'll be generally healthier, meatier, and breed better.
 

CrestedRick

Active member
Who makes this great food? I was going to go with the Bug Burger and then additional fruits and veggies. As far as watering/misting goes how often do you mist or do you just use the water crystals?
 

Olimpia

New member
By great food I meant just a good brand of commercial gutload and/or home make mix of veggies/fruit and dry food, not a brand lol Sorry if that was unclear!

Bug Burger is great. I found it to be a little hit and miss with my roach species (I keep 4-5 species as feeders, none of which are dubia since I'm in Florida) so some loved it and some tolerated it, so you'll have to see. That's why I've ended up using the Superload (also by Repashy) which is a dry, powder food and fruits/veggies as moisture. Seems to be super popular with everyone.

The cool thing about roaches is that they aren't as dumb as crickets! So where as with crickets you have to be really careful with standing water I can actually give my roach tubs a tiny, shallow dish of water and they will drink from it like a trough. Like the lid from a butter or yogurt tub, for example. They usually get their moisture from the fresh food but some days I might run out of fresh fruit/veggies and I will give them a dish of water instead and that works just fine. And I mist usually just once daily for my moderate humidity roaches.
 

CrestedRick

Active member
Ok cool! Thanks for the info, I could care less for crickets since they jump and smell and what not, but the dubia i can place in a deli cup and theyre contained until eaten so I dnt have the worry of them running around the tank.
 

Olimpia

New member
Yep, that's exactly what I do. I mainly keep chameleons, so I have to keep larger species of roaches for my larger chameleons (discoids/dubias are too small, believe it or not!) and I will absolutely not set any of those things free in the cages. They'll end up hiding in the first place they find and never come out again, which means you don't realize several have gone uneaten until you're cleaning out the tank. That's one thing with a small discoid nymph but wait until you have a large male cave roach coming at you! Eghk!

So roaches get either cup-fed or tong-fed to everyone, chameleon or gecko-kind.
 

CrestedRick

Active member
Yea, I had a bug keeper and I dropped it when I kept it crickets for my anoles and my mother went ballistic so avoiding any escapees is a must lol
 

Aimless

Super Moderator
I don't use commercial gutloads, but my dubias are always fed as though I were about to feed them off. I only have one gecko that eats them regularly (my tokay Erzebet) so I tend to have a ton of roaches and sometimes have to give them away or sell them, but they're so cheap and easy to keep it's no big deal.

I don't ever mist or water mine. I experimented with that in the early years and found that it almost always led to mold growth. I use a minimal amount of ventilation holes and feed green stuff about twice a week.

it takes them about 2 days to eat the green stuff, which contributes to humidity. so the humidity will be a little up, then I let it "dry" for a day or so before adding more green stuff. this works in my colony, where I live, with the relative humidity in my herp room. it's a bit dependent on time of year (when the heat's on in the winter things dry out faster, etc) so I have to sort of pay attention and adjust.

I suspect you'll also have to try a few things before you get the appropriate balance. I also, when adding greens, rigged some wire in an upper corner of the bin and hang the greens from a clothes-pin. greens in a dish or laid over the egg crate get icky and contribute to mold and bacteria, at least for me. it's a great way to suspend pretty much everything except things like fruit/veggie peels or small bits of stuff. I usually use dandelions, beet greens, collards, carrot tops, just a random variety of things from my kitchen, but I keep it low in fruit (no citrus at all) and don't use most types of "lettuce".

for the protein/fat source, I use a dry mix I make myself and it varies in composition, but is always dusted with calcium and usually contains a small percentage of repashy diet.

these dubias are ~95% of my tokay's diet. she has been eating this for about a year and a half, since she was tiny. she is well-grown and has good bone and body structure, so although this is very non-scientific I feel pretty good about it. I use the same general ingredients you see recommended frequently by experienced herpers, just the composition is variable over time and I do NOT use dog or cat food, or anything high in protein like fish flakes or meal.

edit: and this time of year, ~once a month I'll give them a corn cob. it's like a treat for the roaches, probably because of the fat and sugar.
 
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CrestedRick

Active member
Thank you! I was looking at buying from theroachguy.com but the smallest kit they have has 125 roaches otherwise I have to order everythig seperately (egg crates, food, roaches). I may just do that since I have 2 cresteds that would probably get fed them every other week. Also I bought a 5 gal and a 7.5 gal sterilite container, any suggestions as to tote size? I was thinking of giving the roaches superload or bug burger with veggies (carrots, celery, lettuce). And yes I was definately going to avoid the cat/dog food and the fish flakes. Any other important/helpful information you have (which Im sure you do) please feel free to lay it on me lol
 

Aimless

Super Moderator
eh, please watch the amount of lettuce. most lettuces are really just water crystals with a little chlorophyll and don't contribute much besides hydration. avoid spinach entirely because of the oxalates. a little is probably ok, but why go there if you don't have to?

hmm. tote size. I have a sterlite tote that's between 12-15 gallons. bigger is better, IMO, because you don't have to clean them as often. my colony right now is probably around 300 or so of all sizes; it's time to thin it again, lol. which usually means it's time to overhaul/clean the egg crates.

my cresties and the leachie will occasionally eat a roach or two, but about 50./50 will ignore them. I think it's good your cresties are eating bugs! I wish I'd pushed that a bit more when my geckos were younger. I think they were so CGD-centric that they decided they didn't really care to hunt bugs, and it's a shame.

if I had had a better, more in-depth understanding of nutrition 2-4 years ago I would have done things differently.

anyways, since you'll be feeding cresties and not a tokay you'll want to feed small-medium nymphs. once your adults start producing, you'll want to cull adults fairly early or you'll suddenly be over-run.

do you know anyone who keeps chickens in their backyard? roaches are like crack to chickens and it would be another use for your extras when you have them. I have a friend with an entire colony of red runners for one little Ackie monitor, and they just feed off all the extra to their chickens as a protein source, lol.
 

Riverside Reptiles

Administrator (HMFIC)
Do also take some time (if you haven't already) to read some of the previous threads in this forum. There's tons of info for making your own feed and gutloads. Several good ones have been stickied to the top of this forum.
 

CrestedRick

Active member
Ya i saw those, havent looked into them yet as most of the places send food with their kits but I will definately take a look.
 

CrestedRick

Active member
So I've had my roaches for a few months, I feed them mostly bug burger and the occasional carrot, can I just pluck them out and feed them as is or should I separate a few and dust them with CGD for like 24hrs or is there something else I should give them once separated to gut load them?
 

Brumit

New member
I have bought supplies to start a dubia roach colony. The main aspect that i am worried about is the heat. The room that i will be keeping them in is about 60-65 in winter time. I want to breed them. i have a 18 gallon bin and i was thinking about putting a zoo med reptitherm U.T.H (1-5 gallon terrarium size) in side the tub (on the bottom or on the side). Will this hurt the roaches in any way? If so, where should i put the U.T.H? Thanks for all the help.
 

CrestedRick

Active member
You could place the UTH underneath the tub or on the side. The room mine are in is about the same temp range and I don't use a UTH, as I only have 2 cresties so have a huge population of dubias right now isn't a huge concern. What are you feeding them?
 

Brumit

New member
I have a leopard gecko and I plan on getting a bearded dragon in the near future. So, do you not use any heating source?
 

CrestedRick

Active member
Ya, I live in CT so it's about 39 right now but it's been mid 20s recently. I don't use a UTH right yet, probably once my colony drops in size so I can build it back up but I usually feed dubias 1-2 a week so the colony will last and I think I got some pregnant ones in my shipment too.
 
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