Is this a good substrate mix for an african fat tails and plants, also bug stuff

[ludwig.donn]

http://www.reptilechannel.com/media...ber-2010/lizard-desert-substrate-mix.aspx.pdf

I have no experience whatsoever with vivariums and geckos. I keep reading that fertilizer is dangerous and I'm afraid to use it. I couldn't find the original article this mix came from. Do you think that this would be an alright substrate to use for an AFT gecko? I was interested in it because it's suppose to hold moisture but still have a dry crust, and I was thinking that would be better when he eats because I could compact it a little. Also if I have a drainage layer would plants and microfauna be able to thrive in it? I want to get a 2 or 5% uvb light since the AFTs eyes are sensitive, and grow some low light plants like Zamioculas Zamiifolia and maybe some spider plant if I can get away with it. Then I'd like to add some Springtails and either Dwarf White or Dwarf Purple isopods. I read that purples do better in higher humidity and since AFTs like it at 40 to 50% I thought they'd be a better fit.

I was also wondering about adding worms. I think I saw it first from a lady with a leopard gecko channel on youtube. The idea I guess is to aerate the soil and to help with the clean up (I haven't been able to find much information on it so I'm not confident at all about what I know). I'm worried though that the AFT will try to eat them and ingest some of the substrate. Also, I'm not sure on what kind of worms to use. I think that if I have springtails and isopods that it's good enough but I'm interested in any other bugs I can add because I just love them. I saw another lady on youtube who was using some kind of blue beetle as well. I'd really love to add beetles, but considering I live in SK Canada and it was hard enough to find a seller for the microfauna, I'm not sure I'd be able to find anything.

 

[Zux]

That mix is absolutely not safe, there are many, very serious issues with that mix and I would strongly recommend you do not use it for anything but plants.

With that said, keeping AFT's Bio-Actively is something I do myself to a reasonably large extent - 10 + enclosures and so I can probably help with most if not all of what may be involved.

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Substrate

In your case, and what you have in mind regarding Bio-Activity, you have two options.

• Option A: Create a mix yourself, I use a mixture of organic topsoil and combine that with an ABG mix I create myself, although this can be easily purchased online also.
• Option B: Purchase a mixture tailor made for the species and biome in question, if this is something you would be interested in, you can let me know where you live and I will recommend a product and retailer.

The mix I use allows the substrate to remain damp in the lower layers and more dry toward the top if desired/required.

The deeper the substrate you can provide, the better for all the enclosures inhabitants, from the Gecko, to the custodians to the plants. A drainage layer will mean you need not worry about over-wet substrate and your plants will never become waterlogged, I elected not to use one in favor of maintaining a 6 inch substrate minimum but the enclosure is made from glass and I can closely monitor the condition of the soil at all times.

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Humidity

How dry you need to have your enclosure and the substrate will depend on the nature of your enclosure and its airflow, my AFT enclosures have excellent airflow and therefore I can safely mimic the humidity range (both day and night) of where the majority of all wild caught animals were brought in from and still reside today, Togo, Ghana, Wa and Benin, particularly Benin where the last captive shipments were brought to Europe from. This can reach ambient levels of up to 90% RH at night and almost never drops below 70%. Again, it is important to note that this is only possible with optimal airflow, as maintaining such an environment with insufficient airflow can lead to bacterial and fungal blooms aswell as URI in short order. This choice will ultimately be down to your judgement, I would never recommend humidity lower than 60% ambient for this species and areas of higher humidity absolutely must be provided to supplement this.

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Light & Heat

I provide 6% UVB to all specimen, heating exclusively via CHE on pulse proportional thermostats. Various hot-spots range from 88-94F and all are used at times, the key is to provide a choice in all things, from light and shade, hot and cool, dry and humid.

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Custodians
I use various springtail species (collembola), Dwarf White and Powder Blue aswell as temperate Isopod species. You can also add things like B dubia to aid with cleanup aswell as give the Gecko even more prey to forage for, Earthworms will work well in these conditions also. The reality here is that the amount of waste created by the Gecko is quite low, with that in mind a healthy population of any one Isopod species will take care of faeces within a 12-24 hour period in my experience, adding further species is all the better, I feel the same way as you do and find how they all work together and live in different areas really interesting.

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Impaction
I wont go too deep into this as its a complex topic, but the reality is that impaction is an entirely man-made issue, just as MBD was and is. If husbandry is on point, as it must be for any species kept Bio-Actively the risk of impaction with quality organic substrates is very, very slim indeed. A sufficiently hydrated, well fed, appropriately heated Gecko will pass almost anything it can comfortably ingest with ease if it has need, certainly anything within the substrate mixes I recommended.

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Since moving all the AFT's to Bio-Active a year ago, every animal without exception is more alert, far more eager to feed and forage for themselves, and significantly more active. I often hear that people find AFT's to be inactive, spending inordinate amounts of time in hides and only venturing out to feed, I find the opposite, mine are out all night long and in fact stay out in the hour just following sunrise in many cases.

I would never keep a species like this any other way, they relish the chance to dig their own deep burrows, to forage for themselves and when kept in an environment which safely replicates the environmental conditions from their home range, are very different animals indeed.

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Hopefully that was helpful, if you have any questions at all, just let me know.

 

[ludwig.donn]

Ahh that was imensly useful, thank you so much. I'm a little confused about the humidity though, bear with me I'm very much a beginner. I've never heard the term relative humidity thrown around, is that just measured with a regular Hygrometer or is it something different. And what do I need to do to create optimal airflow.

I provide 6% UVB to all specimen, heating exclusively via CHE on pulse proportional thermostats. Various hot-spots range from 88-94F and all are used at times, the key is to provide a choice in all things, from light and shade, hot and cool, dry and humid.

I'm not sure what CHE so if you could unabreviate it I'd be really thankful haha. Also for the hot-spots, I read that it's best for AFTs to get heat from their stomach, so then would it be good to have a slate or something for him to lay on along with the warm hide or would that be useless.

How many hides should I provide if I give them a good layer of substrate like yours. Will they just burrow and make their own hides as they see fit. Ahh and one last thing, what size enclosure do you think is best? I was told by a small petstore that a 15 gallon terarium is what they need, but I'd like to go bigger if I could. I read that bigger enclosures can stress some reptiles out though so I'm worried about it.

 

[Zux]

Hi again, you are very welcome, happy to help.

I have included my replies to your questions in Blue within your quote below.

Ahh that was imensly useful, thank you so much. I'm a little confused about the humidity though, bear with me I'm very much a beginner. I've never heard the term relative humidity thrown around, is that just measured with a regular Hygrometer or is it something different. And what do I need to do to create optimal airflow.

Relative Humidity can be seen as the general humidity of the environment, or enclosure in this case. A digital hygrometer is the best and only reliable means of measuring this in a vivarium setting.

As for creating Airflow, my best results have been with low placed vents at either the front or side and then similar or even more ventilation at the back/top/other-side. If you are struggling I have been people use computer fans to create a push/pull situation and force clean air through on a regular basis, which works best for you will inevitably depend on the nature of your enclosure.

I'm not sure what CHE so if you could unabreviate it I'd be really thankful haha. Also for the hot-spots, I read that it's best for AFTs to get heat from their stomach, so then would it be good to have a slate or something for him to lay on along with the warm hide or would that be useless.

My apologies for the abbreviations, forum habits ! CHE - Ceramic Heat Emitter, projects heat in the form of infra-red and emits no light at all, your thinking about the slate to absorb the heat from above is spot on and exactly what I do for mine, I will try and find you some pictures when I get home tonight.

How many hides should I provide if I give them a good layer of substrate like yours. Will they just burrow and make their own hides as they see fit. Ahh and one last thing, what size enclosure do you think is best? I was told by a small petstore that a 15 gallon terarium is what they need, but I'd like to go bigger if I could. I read that bigger enclosures can stress some reptiles out though so I'm worried about it.

As for hides, you can never have too many, I use cork flats and dig those down into the soil to start some for my AFT's, they will adapt these as they see fit / have need. I try to avoid any resin hides these days but I do use an 'Exo Terra - Gecko Cave (Medium)' turned upside down and buried in the soil, when its flipped it has a single opening very close to the ground, a low roof making the Geckos feel very safe, and when filled with substrate allows them to dig deep inside if they so choose. Within each enclosure (36x18x18 inches), I place at least 4-5 hides myself and decoration such as cork tunnels under the soil etc increase the feeling of security further.

As for enclosure size, I would never use anything below 36x18 inches in terms of floor space for an enclosure, this includes a hatchling I acquired this week.

The idea that large enclosures scare Geckos is misleading and inaccurate, what makes Geckos and any animal for that matter, feel nervous, is wide open spaces. They understandably feel exposed when moving around these spaces and would avoid doing so at all costs in the wild, if they dont, they never reach maturity.

For that reason how we decorate and design the enclosure is very important in helping them feel more secure. Providing plenty of cover, varied levels of elevation, and plants are all important in making them comfortable. Many people think that providing such things will mean they never see their Gecko anymore, the opposite has been my experience, the only time these Geckos are reluctant to venture outside of their hides is when they are dissatisfied with their surroundings to the point of feeling in danger. When they feel safe, they are out all night, almost every night.

I will post you some pictures later of the hatchling's enclosure, it might be helpful in giving you some ideas as to what you may want to recreate.

 

[ludwig.donn]

Ahh thank you for explaining everything so well, and photos would be really lovely.

 

[Zux]

Hey, I have posted a link below with a quick album of the hatchling enclosure. It has yet to have its proper plants added but the layout is almost finished apart from that.

It is tough to tell but there are a couple of cork tunnels which go from one side of the enclosure to the other and you can probably make out some of the various burrows etc aswell as the basking zone.

The substrate is between 5-7.5 inches deep in most places.

AFT Hatchling Enclosure - Album on Imgur