The gecko will go wherever it wants and needs to be. 95F seems a bit high to me, my GDGs won't bask directly in that. Provided the basking spot is around 90F they will bask there when they need a boost (possibly to one side on wall or shimmy around bamboo etc at 30+) and go elsewhere to cool off. As you say, subsequently the cooler side of the enclosure is what I would consider very warm, but not basking heat, for my GDGs.
My gradient is more like 75-90F. In a larger 1.5x1.5x3.15" foot viv for adult I use a 150W ceramic emitter placed on top of mesh with bamboo about 6 inches below. It's a more ambient heat, but is sufficient and the gecko spends most the time there and the rest of the time cooling off. Directly on the spot during the winter.
I use a 75W Arcadia halogen spot with reflector dome raised about 6 inches from the top of the mesh in a taller configuration about twice the size of yours, upright, for a young adult. Which I'm sure you know is ideal for arboreal geckos.
Consider that the gecko will perch at an angle or on the glass, usually face down - where they actually go is where you want to pay attention to temps.
As long as there is a gradient, with a slight drop at night, the lizard will figure itself out.
Do you know what the breeder means by "juvenile"? People refer to hatchlings, neophytes, babies, young, juvenile, all sorts. How old, in weeks? What size? A GDG maybe 6 months to 1 year old absolute maximum can live in that viv. But it seems too small to have an ideal thermogradient to me, without repositioning the lighting. I think there may be risk of overexposure to UVB as well, although there is some shade. That's just as important, to have UVB protection as UVB exposure.
That thin layer of coir will dry out quickly. You will need to mist it at least 2-3 times per day. Consider that young GDGs can ingest coir and cause impaction, I recommend the chunkiest orchid bark you can get for a top layer. It is unusual for day geckos to be on the ground but in a small enclosure they can end up there and swallow dirt. They will also sometimes randomly eat dirt like Cresties do to try and get vitamins so watch out for that. So I would add orchid bark and bump up the substrate to at least 2-3 inches to maintain humidity. A drainage layer is a good idea, but you loose verticality - you may not want to bother until you have a larger setup ready. It may sound like a waste of space but it is not - a base level of humidity that is never dry is very important for these animals or you will get shed stuck to toes, tails, and all sorts.
Humidity needs to be 40-80% at all times for assured shedding, although a well kept diet may mean you can get away with lower. This is more important. Live planting makes a huge difference. Every animal is different so pay attention to behaviour, where the gecko basks, for how long and what it does. You can quite quickly tell whether it has figured out its basking spots, ambient spots and cool down spots if it gets too to hot on a sunny day, for example.
Please get a thermohygrometer to provide a constant readout (digital is preferable) and definitely use a thermostat in an enclosure that small with a reflector dome. This will beam a LOT of heat straight down - the mesh will allow it to not heat up indefinitely, but better safe than sorry. Just hold your hand under there for about a minute. If it burns you it's too hot. Diffirent bulbs / diffuser / lens designs focus heat more or less intensely at different spreads/cones. I have had powerful bulbs heat an enclosure up to 133 F when I was not paying attention (the bracket slipped and I got a 100W halogen instead of 75W). One my thermostat failed and the enclosure went up to 140F!!!
Do you not need a night time heat source in your part of the world? Day geckos suffer below 70F as the absolutely barest minimum ever.
I also recommend including a small dish for livefood. Do not let them loose. Livefood can bite and even eat a young, languishing GDG if for some reason it is grovelling on the floor.
Bear in mind the context of this environment too - people think GDGs need lots of light and heat and humidity (so everything) and then chuck everything at it. The truth is, African rainforests are some of the driest, darkest environments on Earth, as well as some of the most humid (NOT wet!!) and brightest (above the canopy!). You need daylight but you also need shade (like forest canopies). You need moisture but you also need soil to dry out so that it doesn't become waterlogged and attract microbial growth. You need heat but you also need cool areas. Imagine a giant day gecko climbing up and down 100foot trees, jumping through canopies of leaves, in and out of shade and direct sunspots breaking through canopies. This is why their eyes are so huge because they are able to see in the dark. The UVB exposure the animals get is actually passed through the forest canopy. A good setup simulates all of these variables so that the gecko can make a choice for what it needs.
sauce: 5 years keeping GDGs exclusively, at least 15 - I lost count of the hatchings at one point. I have learnt from both good and bad experience using the most ideal and the most economical setups.
NB i've converted Celsius to Fahrenheit so this isn't exact stuff, like I say, the gecko knows best anyway.
