Need Cyrtodactylus Peguensis help!

M

markbenton

New member
Hey!

Managed to pick up a two year old male at the Doncaster show on Sunday and was wondering what does everyone mainly feed their little ones!

I've got a large collection of reps but never owned a gecko before so obviously I am rather worried about his health and wellbeing.

I acquired him on Sunday and have tried him on crix, 2nd locusts, mealworms and waxworms. After trying tongue feeding, I tried leaving mealworms in a feeding dish for him overnight being a nocturnal species but still no joy (Today being Wednesday).

The stress of moving may be affecting him I presume but I just want to get an idea what the best methods are.

Thank you!
 
M

markbenton

New member
Thank you!

Yeah I've applied phosphorus free calcium to whatever I've attempted to feed to him but unfortunately he won't take anything at all!

He has a small water bowl, probably just about big enough to bathe in and I've lightly misted his tank once as the humidity has stabilised at around 75%.

I have an overhead red spotlight bulb to aid the temps when we start to get bad weather, but currently here in the UK we have temperatures ranging from 20C to 30C. I have kept his vivarium small to reduce stress around 1x1x1ft. I currently don't have a strip light in there with him for UVB so his viv is very dark at the moment. A strip bulb is on order for him.

Not really sure where I'm going wrong! I mean it has only been three days but I am getting worried none the less!

I really appreciate any feedback, thank you!
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
markbenton said:
Thank you!

Yeah I've applied phosphorus free calcium to whatever I've attempted to feed to him but unfortunately he won't take anything at all!

He has a small water bowl, probably just about big enough to bathe in and I've lightly misted his tank once as the humidity has stabilised at around 75%.

I have an overhead red spotlight bulb to aid the temps when we start to get bad weather, but currently here in the UK we have temperatures ranging from 20C to 30C. I have kept his vivarium small to reduce stress around 1x1x1ft. I currently don't have a strip light in there with him for UVB so his viv is very dark at the moment. A strip bulb is on order for him.

Not really sure where I'm going wrong! I mean it has only been three days but I am getting worried none the less!

I really appreciate any feedback, thank you!
Click to expand...
You are welcome! These geckos are my all-time favorites! Can you view the care sheet link?

Don't offer food for 1-2 days. Then offer 1-2 undusted waxworms. I had to do this one time for my younger male. He ate crickets after that!

BTW, what substrate are you using?

These geckos are temperature and light sensitive! I keep mine @ room temps which range between ~21.7-26.1*C. Very infrequently temperatures get a little higher. The temps are on the warm end, since it's summer in Oregon USA. This room is only lit by a southern window and by an eastern window. These geckos are housed individually on a rack in the SW corner. They don't get any bright light!

IF you need additional heat in the cooler months, try a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) rather than any visible light or UVB.

I keep all my Cpzs (20 right now) in my day lit gecko/bedroom. I don't use ANY lighting over the cages. I think it's safer NOT to use UVB -- since they're only out and about at dusk, during the night, and at dawn. At least powdered supplements are more predictable in a captive environment. Mine get vitamin D3 only via supplemental dusting.
 
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M

markbenton

New member
That's some really handy info!

He currently has a 50/50 soil and peat moss substrate with spag moss in his hide. I've provided climbing apparatus and fake foliage for water droplets as well.

Was completely unaware of the light sensitivity so thank you very much for that! Would a heat mat be more sufficient then for our winter months? Our cold weather usually starts in October and finishes in April. I think a ceramic would possibly make it too hot after having bad experiences in the past with my bosc.

Will try the waxworms when I get home and see how he fares.

Do yours quite a bit of daylight or are they situated far from the window?

Thank you again, I'm sorry I keep pestering you!
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Active member
markbenton said:
That's some really handy info!

He currently has a 50/50 soil and peat moss substrate with spag moss in his hide. I've provided climbing apparatus and fake foliage for water droplets as well.

Was completely unaware of the light sensitivity so thank you very much for that! Would a heat mat be more sufficient then for our winter months? Our cold weather usually starts in October and finishes in April. I think a ceramic would possibly make it too hot after having bad experiences in the past with my bosc.

Will try the waxworms when I get home and see how he fares.

Do yours quite a bit of daylight or are they situated far from the window?

Thank you again, I'm sorry I keep pestering you!
Click to expand...

No worries at all. Really! I asked about the care sheet link because some folks are unable to open links.

Please share a photo of your gecko.

If the undusted waxworms did not work last night, give this gecko a couple days "chill time" without offering any food. Then try 1-2 waxworms in a small ceramic or glass bowl or in a mealworm dish.

  • 1291505-center-1.jpg

These geckos are nocturnal. They are usually only active at dusk, during the night, and at dawn. It's difficult to know how much benefit they get from UVB. When you supplement with calcium with D3, it's a for sure thing. The D3 calcium schedule I use works for hatchlings and for adults. :)

My chirpers receive"subdued" room lighting. Most the chirpers are on the 5 foot long x 18 inch wide rack along the south wall next to the window, but in a corner. I have their two shelves blocked off on the window end by 18 x 12 inch pieces of construction paper. My 1.2 breeders 12 feet across the room from the southern window always hide during the day in their coconut hides, in their cork bark tubes, or elsewhere. The eastern door -- mostly windows -- lets morning sun into the room for a few hours daily.

Right now that room humidity fluctuates between 40-55%. "Enclosure humidity" should be somewhat higher. 75% RH may be a little high 24/7.

A bosc monitor lizard? When you had trouble with the CHE was it on a thermostat? I think CHEs come in wattages as low as 25 watts. (Nanos by Zoo Med) It seems like a heat pad would overly dry the substrate and make the humidity fall. For 3 of 4 adult enclosures

Have you access to Zoo Med's supplements? Nutrobal is an excellent all-in-one supplement that's frequently available in the UK.

Let me know how things are going.
 
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