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By Herbert64 at 01/22/2012 - 12:16
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i have a leopard gecko. she is about 2 years old. i have a concern though with her she shedded about 2weeks ago and when she was finished the next day she had a huge bump on her front right wrist. i'm not sure what it is and im worried. can someine help me figure out what it is.
ps. i feed her grickets with calcium on them, and i also give her calcium in her dish. she has warm water everyday. the tempeture is perfect and the humidity is great.
HELP!! thankyou 
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By StickyDudeTheGecko at 01/18/2012 - 18:47
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Hello, I am looking to breed my two crested geckos, but I don't know how to care for the eggs. Can I please have some help?
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By KaitS. at 01/14/2012 - 15:56
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My parents bought my little sister a leopard gecko about 5 months ago from a pet store. They didn't look into them before they got it, so they didn't know what a healthy gecko should look like. The one they bought her was super skinny, had no tail fat, and was almost colorless (I don't know if it's an albino or if it is a symptom). It was about 4 inches long when they bought it. Its now 5 months later and from what they are telling me, it hasn't grown at all since they got it, neither in length or weight. It eats a lot (crickets and mealworms) and drinks but doesn't gain any weight. I'm thinking parasites are what's going on. My father is the type that would die before taking a lizard to the vet, if you know what I mean. I live across the country from my family but when I go visit soon I am bringing it back with me so I can hopefully get it healthy if the damage can be undone. Aside from me taking it to the vet (which will be done as soon as I get it) what are some good ways to get some quick healthy weight on?
For the record, I have a healthy leo and I know all about correct temps, foods, vitamins, and I use paper as a substrate, etc, etc. So I know what I'm doing, I just want to make sure I get some healthy weight on it, rather than just bulking it up with waxworms like some people suggest. Maybe some slush recipes? Please and thank you!!
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By StickyDudeTheGecko at 01/13/2012 - 13:01
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I have a juvi White lined/skunk gecko named Sticky Dude. I have had him for about 2 months and he is doing great! He eats well, has bright colours, has shed twice, and has lots of energy!
I need some help with taming. He likes being pet on his back and tail, butshys when I put my hand in the tank to feed him, and doesn't like bein gheld very much. I handle him about once a week.
He has coconut fiber substrate, a food and water dish, a climbing vine, a rainforest background, fake plants, 2 heat lamps for day and night, a hollow upright tree, is misted 2-3 times daily, and is fed crickets and meal worms that are dusted with calciume once week
Am I giving him the care that he needs? Anything I am missing? And can I PLEASE have some taming tips?
Thanks
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By leolover101 at 01/04/2012 - 17:05
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Does any one have advice on how to sex a leopard gecko?
Thanks(:
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By geckoguy57x at 12/23/2011 - 20:08
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eulblepharis macularis
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leopard gecko ( eulblepharis macularis)
cute little docile creatures that love to have ...
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By charlotte at 07/19/2011 - 06:54
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Teratolepis Fasciata
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Viper gecko ( Teratolepis Fasciata)
Housing:
Due to their small size, a small enclosure, such as a 10 gallon aquarium, will be adequate. Make sure the enclosure has a secure lid, as viper geckos will climb. For substrate, playsand or calci-sand will work fine. I have heard of some that have used coconut fibers as well. Be sure to provide a shallow water dish with fresh water replaced daily. Misting the cage twice a week is also beneficial. As with most geckos, having places to hide and bask are a must. Because of their small size, in the wild they are hunted as food. They MUST have places to hide to feel secure and reduce stress. Decorating your enclosure with rocks, driftwood, and fake plants looks good and at the same time provides hiding spots. Be sure to have hides on both sides of the enclosure.
You may keep viper geckos by themselves or in groups. Males should not be housed together to keep down stress levels and to prevent excessive breeding to a female.
Heating/Lighting:
Because reptiles thermoregulate, you must provide a range of temperatures within the enclosure. Hot side temps. should be around 90 degrees; cool side temps. around 80 degrees. At night, temps. can be allowed to drop into the upper 70's. I use a UTH (Under Tank Heater) and a basking lamp. At night, I simply turn off the basking lamp--the UTH should provide enough heat, depending on your personal indoor temps.
...
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By geckonamedspot at 05/31/2010 - 19:46
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Eublepharis macularius
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Leopard Gecko ( Eublepharis macularius)
Leopard Geckos have been one of the most popular reptiles in captivity for over thirty years. They are one of the easiest beginner geckos to take care of. They are moderately handle-able, but are more for looking at and enjoying. ...
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By T-ReXx at 08/27/2009 - 14:45
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Gekko gecko
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( Gekko gecko)
Tokay Geckos are among the largest gecko species in the world. They are beautiful, intelligent, and often misunderstood reptiles that are fairly easy to keep and exhibit many interesting behaviors. Wild Type Tokays have a background color of dark-to-light purple-to-bluish color combined with a pattern of orange/orange-red spots and blotches. Tokay geckos have been kept in captivity for decades and are available in many beautiful morphs. Often labeled as a "pet store fodder" species, they are rewarding and hardy captives that will breed readily if kept in the correct environment. They work well in large planted vivaria and will not dig up or destroy plant life. If you want a large gecko that will work well as a display lizard and don't mind not handling your animal, tokays are an excellent choice.
...
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By GeckoMan Roth at 04/15/2009 - 15:08
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Paroedura picta
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Ocelot or Panther Gecko ( Paroedura picta)
Panther Geckos are a smaller specie of gecko from the island of Madagascar. The average size is from four to six inches in length, with some more well cared for individuals pushing eight inches. They are usually dark brown with beautiful blotches of cream white and tan markings on their backs. They are known to be very entertaining and very personable little critters. ...
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By SarkkaS at 08/03/2008 - 06:46
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Lygodactylus mombasicus
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Mombasa Dwarf Gecko, White-headed Dwarf Gecko ( Lygodactylus mombasicus)
A small and active arboreal dwarf gecko from Kenya, L. mombasicus is still big on presence. A more rare species in captivity, which was recently bred in captivity in Finland for the first time and has previously been bred in captivity at least in Germany as well. Large, round eyes are full of whim and mystery, while courtship behavior is interesting and fun to watch. Background coloration is white with possible hints of yellowish-green tones, on top of which there are distinct black markings on the head and neck. From shoulder level towards the tail, the coloration becomes more blue-grayish with a smaller pattern. Underside is yellow-white. Color intensity correlates to stress and activity level. ...
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By Ira at 05/29/2008 - 15:02
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Underwoodisaurus milii
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Thick tailed or Barking gecko ( Underwoodisaurus milii)
Underwoodisaurus milii has grown immensely in popularity as the species has become more available in the US and European union. Underwoodisaurus milii is a medium to large sized terrestrial lizard inhabiting multiple locations and habitats of the Australian continent. In the wild U. milii have a brown colored background with yellow to white spots scattered across the back of the animal. Around the neck there is usually an aggregation of these spots resembling a collar. ...
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By MK Geckos at 12/14/2007 - 04:31
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Eublepharis macularius
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Leopard Gecko ( Eublepharis macularius)
Leopard Geckos have been captive bred for over thirty years and are bred by many people today. There are currently 11 different genetic morphs which has diversified the look of Leopard Geckos. They range in colors from white with red eyes to bright orange. Although they may seem hard to care for, they are one of the best beginner reptiles currently offered on the market. ...
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By Starrynightexotics at 10/08/2007 - 21:07
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Micro-Feeder Culture
Micro feeder culture, literally the culturing of tiny prey items, is a facet of herpetoculture that is often overlooked by many. If you look at the composition of the Family Gekkoninae for example, you see that by exclusively dealing with larger species of geckos you miss out on the majority of animals present.
In the past the aversion to dealing with small species was understandable, with higher mortality rates and greater difficulties in obtaining an adequate food supply. Not to mention the lack of general knowledge. With the advances made since the days when Leopard Geckos were on the cutting edge of Gecko enthusiasts skills and the advances made in captive technology, lighting and caging, the only real aspect left that is of any considerable trouble outside of an specific animals Natural History data, is the food supply.
In this article Ill discuss several species of feeder insect that are useful for feeding even the smallest of gecko hatchlings. Ill also present simple methods I have come up with to succesfully culture each prey item. I will not be including information on any roach species as that information is wide spread and easily obtainable. Species worth mention when dealing with small geckos and other herps are Turkestan Roaches or Red Runners (Blatta lateralis) and Green Banana roaches (Panchlorea nivea)
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By Marty at 10/08/2007 - 15:42
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Necessity, mother of invention. Below is a description of a method I came up with after my vivarium got heavily infested with millipedes. This will most likely apply to any pests. Read on, you might find it useful.
This was my 90gal diamond shaped prior to the Operation Jungle Fever . Millipedes got so bad that I could count hundreds of them crawling all over the tank...it was disgusting!!! I did not want to rip my tank apart because I sunk a lot of work and money into making the background and water features, foggers, lights, etc. I embedded tubes and wires in the background, plus things were healthy and well rooted and growing beautifully.
I wanted to kill only millipedes and a few slugs, but nothing else. Pesticides and chemicals were out of the questions, since I kept dart frogs in the tank. Eventually they would go back into the tank.
I started experimenting with carbon dioxide - CO2. It is heavier then air, thus easy to put into a tank. Any bug will eventually need air, so I figured it will die without any oxygen... Plants love CO2. After the procedure the tank would just need to be vented for a little bit to replace the air. Seemed there would be no downside!
I looked into getting a CO2 tank, but it turned out too expensive and not worth the hassle.... I used dry ice, which is compressed, solid form of carbon dioxide.
Here's what I did....I'm extremely excited, because my idea worked flawlessly for me and I'd recommend it to anyone with similar problem. You can do the same thing with a single orchid, by either putting it into an empty Tupperware container. No reason, why it wouldn't work. Post back if you try it.
I was a bit concerned with using dry ice, because I was afraid it will lower the temp and kill my plants in the process, so I took a few precautions.
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By Marty at 10/08/2007 - 14:21
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Click on individual tanks to enlarge
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Here's the story of my vivarium rack construction. It took me a while to figure things out and to plan everything, so there would be no surprises later. You can click on the images to get larger views. Warning, there's are a lot of images in this post, so be patient if you have a slower connection. I made this rack with several key ideas in mind. I wanted to create as maintenance free setup as possible. I didn't want to become a slave of my own hobby and keep maintaining my tanks constantly. At the same time I wanted to have as close of a habitat replication as possible. This was my dream list... I wanted it all ! Even though this rack setup has been created for dartfrogs, I'm sure some of you may find a lot of the elements useful when building your geckos setups.
- Automated Misting System. Misting several times per day, for less then 1 minute per misting cycle
- Worry free draining. When there is too much water from all the misting, I wanted all 10 tanks to take care of themselves
- Ventilation - I wanted high humidity (90%+), yet I wanted to see everything inside without any fog on the front
- Full view, I didn't want to see any hinges or latches or anything else in the fronts of the tanks obstructing the views of the vivarium. No door in the front.
- My misting system had to be maintenance free, I didn't want to keep adding water to it, or worry that it will run dry - ever !
- Some type of a feeding door, so I wouldn't have to open the front to feed the frogs. It would save them some stress and reduce possibility of escape and make things easier for me.
- Keeping the cleaning of the front glass to a minimum
- Lights on a timer - no brainer here
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