N. amyae questions

[droogievesch]

I have owned geckos for about 18 months now, and I want to expand my collection to these geckos. I have a few questions:

1.) I want a pair, and I would like to house them singly. I have heard people say that their geckos will become defensive when their cage is opened. Are they secretive geckos and would do better in a semi-transparent bin vs. a transparent glass aquarium?

2.) I have a rack for my ball pythons. I use a Helix thermostat, and I keep it at 88 degrees in the back of the rack. Assuming that the geckos do best with more privacy would I be able to keep the geckos in the same rack system as the snakes (obviously in different bins )

3.) How easy are these geckos easy to breed? I will be honest and say I have every intention of buying a sexed pair and breeding/selling this spring. If these geckos are hit or miss with breeding I may may reconsider my plans.

4.) I will be keeping these geckos on fine play sand (not sand from a pet store, but the plain sand used for kid's sandboxes). I plan on feeding them b. dubia roaches and mealworms. Will there be more chances of impaction, less chances of impaction, or no difference in chances of impaction with this sand compared to the sand in petstores (I don't want to use reptile sand because it's calcium based and clumps, and have heard horrible stories about it).

5.) People say that first time knobtails should be levis, what is the reason for this? I understand amyae have a more "aggressive" personality, but quite honestly I do not handle my geckos. Is there any other reason why these are not "beginner" knobtails (and don't say price, because levis are still expensive, so if I'm going to spend over a grand on a pair, I'm going all out and paying 2,500 on a pair of geckos I want )

6.) How often do their enclosures need a thorough cleaning? I was planning on using a small scoop/sifter and sifting the top layer of sand to remove dead bugs, urates, feces, etc. a few times a week, but how often will I have to change the sand all together?

7.) My hypothetical set-up: 16 qt bin filled 2" with play sand. Small plastic plant pot tipped upside down with a hole cut on the side (covered in silicone and small pebbles to look "natural") one one side, and another small container, filled with damp spaghum or coco fiber, with a hole cut higher up so it can crawl into it on the other side of the bin. A shallow water dish will be provided on the cool side (not totally necessary, but for my peace of mind until I realize they just kick sand into it constantly anyway), and then misted 2-3 times a week.

8.) Are the geckos temperature sex determined? I am debating getting an unsexed hatchling, keeping it so I can get the "hang of it" and then finding a mate once it is sexed. If I have a 50/50 chance of getting male or female I may go this route, but if my odds will be skewed I may just get a sexed pair. I hope this logic makes sense.

9.) I don't know if people are allowed to openly reply to this post, but could you PM me and let me know a good, reliable, breeder to go to for these geckos. I would like to find somebody who is flexible with payment (I don't have few grand laying around). Also, if there is somebody who is known to be shady please give me a heads up so I don't have a bad experience. Again, I don't know if people are allowed to post names and "advertise" for a certain breeder, so if you can contact me off thread with this information that would be great!

Thank you for reading through this post, and I thank you in advance for any and all help you give me (yes, even if it's "Whoa...you have a TON more research to do before buying anything!). Constructive criticism is more helpful than "Sounds good!" and I'd rather fix any problems now before they arise and then have somebody go, "Geeze, no wonder your gecko isn't doing well; you're doing A, B, and C wrong!!!"

 

[Reptiluvr]

These are great questions and I have many of the same questions myself as I am interested in investing in these buggers sometime. Can't wait to hear responses...

 

[Ira]

Here's some opinions and some answers form my own experience.
1 - They definitely can be feisty and aggressive or docile and tame. It really depends on how much they are handled. Housing alone or with a mate won't make a difference with their temperament. They generally are a secretive gecko like most all Nephrurus. Like I said, tame ones will do better in a glass aquarium, ones that aren't will get easily stressed.

2 - I don't use rack systems but the set up sounds good to me. It might be a little warm.

3 - They are hit and miss. Mine still have not bred yet. I notice quite a few people don't have the best success with these compared to other species.

4 - Impaction generally isn't a problem with Nephrurus. Probably as fine a grade of sand is your best bet. Many people on here use jurassic sand. It's awesome.

5 - Levis, or Underwoodisaurus milii are an even better beginner knob tail like gecko. They are cheaper than the others. Usually milii are advised because their care is easier and they are drastically less expensive. Levis generally are cheaper than most other Nephrurus, Pairs aren't usually near a grand anymore. More like 650-750.

6 - I change my sand 3-4 times a year.

7 - They don't need a moist hide box until the female is ready to lay. Misting 1-2 times a week is better. They like it dry.

8 - They aren't TSD. You really have about a 50% chance on a juvie.

9 - I'd watch the for sale forums. There is a pair and an unsexed juvie in there right now that's really cheap and they are awesome looking.

Good luck, they are fun.

 

[droogievesch]

Here's some opinions and some answers form my own experience.
1 - They definitely can be feisty and aggressive or docile and tame. It really depends on how much they are handled. Housing alone or with a mate won't make a difference with their temperament. They generally are a secretive gecko like most all Nephrurus. Like I said, tame ones will do better in a glass aquarium, ones that aren't will get easily stressed.

I do not plan on handling these geckos. I cannot even say I plan on having them as "display" animals at this moment. I am considering getting a pair, and I can't guarantee how much they've been held before, so I think I may go with the plastic bins. Of course I can always change this if/when I want or need to.

2 - I don't use rack systems but the set up sounds good to me. It might be a little warm.

What temperature do you recommend for them? I thought I read that about 90 degrees for the hot side and 78 or so for the cool side.

3 - They are hit and miss. Mine still have not bred yet. I notice quite a few people don't have the best success with these compared to other species.

How long have you had your geckos, and why do you think they are harder to breed than other species of Nephrurus? Are they more aggressive toward each other, or is it just the way they are?

4 - Impaction generally isn't a problem with Nephrurus. Probably as fine a grade of sand is your best bet. Many people on here use jurassic sand. It's awesome.

I will have to look into that. I know that most petstore sands are based on calcium (calcisand) and are extremely overpriced. Like I mentioned before, I am *probably* not going to display these geckos (not until I get into a place with enough room for them to be properly displayed). Next time I make a cricket run I will have to look at the contents of Jurassic sand and see if it is a calcium based sand and also see how fine the granules are compared to fine play sand. It is a relief to know impaction isn't generally a problem. I may use a small little bowl to keep the worms/roaches in to further reduce the risk.

5 - Levis, or Underwoodisaurus milii are an even better beginner knob tail like gecko. They are cheaper than the others. Usually milii are advised because their care is easier and they are drastically less expensive. Levis generally are cheaper than most other Nephrurus, Pairs aren't usually near a grand anymore. More like 650-750.

So the main reason why levis are considered better is because of the price? The care for the amyae doesn't seem complicated, I just want to cover all my bases. I am really attracted to the way amyae looks like "The Thing" from the old comic book series (seriously...that's why I want one). I like the big eyes on the levis though, so they may be an option.

6 - I change my sand 3-4 times a year.

7 - They don't need a moist hide box until the female is ready to lay. Misting 1-2 times a week is better. They like it dry.

Thank you for this information. I knew they were from the desert, but I also read that they should have one wet/damp side and one dry side. I may have confused that with a different species of Nephrurus. I think I may try it and see if it's used at all, and if it isn't it will be safe to remove it. I would hate to not have it and have them need it

8 - They aren't TSD. You really have about a 50% chance on a juvie.

Alright, I have contacted somebody and he has three unsexed ones for sale. All three of them combined are less than a pair, so I am thinking of going this route if they are not related (I don't know how many breeding pairs he has). If they are related I will have to reconsider my options.

Females are larger than males, but how else can they be sexed?

9 - I'd watch the for sale forums. There is a pair and an unsexed juvie in there right now that's really cheap and they are awesome looking.

I looked and couldn't find it Could you PM me the link?

Good luck, they are fun.

Thanks! And sorry for picking a part your post; normally I don't do that...I just want to clarify everything so I am confident with these animals (if I spend too long worrying about if I'm doing things right I will see the animals as a problem instead of enjoyable).

 

[Ira]

I keep mine at about 75-85. They do fine at that temp. I know some prefer warmer.

They just don't breed sometimes. I've had amyae for about a year.

Jurassic Sand is not calcium based. It's a natural sand. Do a search on this forum, you'll find most use it and some more details about it. The grain is extremely small, it feels like silk.

Levis are usually considered for the price, amyae care is easier than levis if you can afford them.

Here's a link to the classified; http://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/geckos-buy-sell-trade-want-pricing/26921-geckos-sale.html

When adults, yes females are bigger. Males also have hemi-pene bulges at the base of their knob.

If you have more questions just reply. That's what we're all here for.

 

[Stickytoe]

Of course if you want 0% risk of impaction, go with paper towel ;-)

I have used both washed beach sand and paper towel. I never had any problems with the beach sand (used this with my amyae for 4 years), but I have recently switched to paper towel for ease of cleaning.

My temp gradient is 74-89 with a few hiding places so they can choose their own ideal temp.

I would recommend just feeding roaches--no need for the mealworms. The roaches can be gutloaded with the good stuff!

I personally, have never had trouble getting this species to breed for me. My original female is still breeding strong after 6 years in my care.

If you are opting to buy unsexed animals, I would recommend you get some that are well started (at least 2 months) and feeding well.

I have most of my amyae collection in racks built 'open' so there is light penetration on the front, back, and sides. Heat tape or cable is run near the back of each shelf, and controlled with a Helix thermostat. This brand of thermostat is ideal because instead of just switching on and off, it actually slowly adjusts itself to the temp you set it at, creating a much more even temp over time.


____________________
Nicole Chaney
Welcome to Sticky Toe Gecko!

 

[droogievesch]

I have contacted some people about buying their animals. Some have been unable to set-up a payment plan, and the others have been unsexed

I just PM'd the person from the ad above, and hopefully we can set something up. Do you have anything available yourself?

 

[Stickytoe]

I'm actually holding all my offspring back for this year. I usually have a long waiting list going for hatchlings. (pm me for more details).

If I could offer you some more advice
I would say, don't rush it. Get your setup situated, and your temp gradients established. Keep an eye on the temps for a few weeks and make sure they are in the right parameters. Once that is all taken care of, then get your geckos. They are expensive and you want as little risk as possible.


_____________________
Nicole Chaney
Welcome to Sticky Toe Gecko!

 

[droogievesch]

Okay!

So my mind changed once again, can I keep them singly in a 10g enclosure? Do they climb or can I have an open lid? Would a 20g long be okay for a pair?

I'm thinking of what I have available for extra tanks right now, and am figuring out how to make it work

 

[Stickytoe]

give them as much space as possible---they will use it. By giving them more space you will see a wider range of behaviors. I do have most of my collection in rack systems (which provides about as much floor space as a standard 20 gallon tank), but I do have some set up in large vision cages so I can enjoy them

A 20 long would be fine for a pair.

You should have a lid. I've had mine climb up rocky surfaces, but have never seen them climb glass---but better safe than sorry, right? Hope you don't have a cat!

good luck!

____________________
Nicole Chaney
Welcome to Sticky Toe Gecko!

 

[Stickytoe]

Also, if you do decide to keep them in the same rack as your ball pythons...a couple things:

1) if you are keeping them on sand- you will have to account for the temperature difference this medium would generate. (ie if you have your thermostat probe in a ball python tub, it may be a totally different temp in your gecko tubs).

2) most ball python racks are pretty closed in and don't let in a lot of light. I'm sure there are some out there that have had success breeding amyae in darker racks, but in my opinion it wouldn't be preferable for the gecko's sake....but hey, I could be wrong!

I'm hoping more people will chime in here with their own experiences with amyae. Even though I've been successful I know this is not always the case. Some people have had problems with impactions and unexpected deaths (with no apparent cause). These are all things you should consider before getting into this species.

______________________
Nicole Chaney
Welcome to Sticky Toe Gecko!

 

[Reptiluvr]

Has anyone ever seen more/less success in breeding or even living with regards to humidity. I assume that humidity would remain a little higher in a rack system that is generally less ventilated than in a glass tank with open top. Anyone noted differences in this regard?

 

[Stickytoe]

I personally, have had equal breeding success in racks vs. large cages. However my rack tubs are drilled with screened vents (one per side) so they are ventilated quite well.

____________________
Nicole Chaney
Welcome to Sticky Toe Gecko!

 

[droogievesch]

These are all really good points you guys! I did not even think about the photo cycle for breeding, nor did I consider the ventilation issue. I think I have it figured out, I was talking to my pseudo boyfriend, and our conversation went something like this:

-I'm in the final stages of getting them
-Getting what?
-Those geckos I want
-The ugly ones?
-They're ADORABLE (yes, stress adorable)
-*sigh* Where are you going to keep them?
-In my snake rack
-Nobody is going to see them
-So?
-Wait, you're spending thousands of dollars on something that nobody would see? If I spent that kind of money on something I'd make sure everyone saw it.
-Well...
-It's just my opinion...I think they're ugly so I don't care if I never see them
-Okay! I'll put them in a big glass aquarium so you have to!!

Maybe that's the reason we aren't dating?

So I'm going to keep them in a 20g long with an UTH and a basking light. Do I want a ceramic, blue, red, or incadescent light?

 

[Stickytoe]

probably a red light. It's imperiteve that you use a thermostat as well for both devices.

 

[Stickytoe]

It seems to me like you are rushing into this purchase (just my opinion). For someone that has been keeping geckos for only 18 months, I have a hard time recommending this species to you...yes in part to their price tag, but also because they are a bit more tricky than Rhacodactylus.
My ultimate piece of advice would be to wait.
Gain more experience with the species you have...I'm sure issues and questions will arise, and the more experience you have with geckos in general, you will be able to use this 'tool set' to trouble shoot with your amyae eventually.

I would just hate for something to go wrong because someone rushed into a purchase of ANY animal, regardless of its price tag.

 

[droogievesch]

It seems to me like you are rushing into this purchase (just my opinion). For someone that has been keeping geckos for only 18 months, I have a hard time recommending this species to you...yes in part to their price tag, but also because they are a bit more tricky than Rhacodactylus.
My ultimate piece of advice would be to wait.
Gain more experience with the species you have...I'm sure issues and questions will arise, and the more experience you have with geckos in general, you will be able to use this 'tool set' to trouble shoot with your amyae eventually.

I would just hate for something to go wrong because someone rushed into a purchase of ANY animal, regardless of its price tag.

What makes them more difficult? Is it getting the right temps?

 

[Brennan]

I think Nicole is just saying that it would be a horrlbe for you to blow your investment if something ever did go wrong. With more experience, you will more knowledge in treating that issue. I'm not saying that you're ciliatus aren't investments, but it would really suck to lose an adult female amyae over an adult female ciliatus. Based on price and rarity!