Leopard Gecko Bowser: ceramic heat emitter, night viewing bulb, setup ?s, & all

[Bowser]

Are these products good for cricket feed? A friend of mine's son uses these for his crickets and has had nothing but good things to say. Also, I've read around and have seen positive reviews. After reading articles on this forum about feeding feeders, it looks like the Flukers Orange Cube diet is made up of the same stuff, for the most part.

Fluker's Original Crickets Quencher
Orange Cube Cricket Diet

or what about

Hi-Cal. Cricket Diet

After the amazing experience last night with Bowser and the crickets, I'm thinking of making them as part of his staple. These products seem they would be the easiest...would love to hear if anyone uses these. The crickets I bought last night had these products in their cage and they all seemed pretty beefy and healthy. Had a ton of life and jump in their step.

I have some carrots and spinach...I'm going to put that in a container with a little saucer of water and buy more crickets. Since I have those foods, I mine as well use them!

 

[cricket4u]

Very good! You see why you shouldn't deprive him of those crickets.:biggrin: There is nothing like watching their tail wiggle right before striking!

 

[Bowser]

Very good! You see why you shouldn't deprive him of those crickets.:biggrin: There is nothing like watching their tail wiggle right before striking!

I have to tell you, it was pretty awesome. Mainly, I think, since that was the happiest I've seen him since getting him :biggrin:! I am going back to Pet Smart to get more crickets after work today. Along with that Flukers Orange Cricket Diet (is this good???).

Bowser ate 10 large (about 1/2"-3/4") crickets last night...I did one at a time and he let me know when he was done. So how often should I feed him? When they are young it's recommended every day, but adults it's 2-3x/week. What if they are a juvenile? Bowser is 5 months and although he is fairly large (not fat) the breeder assured me he will get quite a bit bigger. So I'm sort of stuck...should I feed him more crickets tonight?

Thanks!

 

[cricket4u]

Are these products good for cricket feed? A friend of mine's son uses these for his crickets and has had nothing but good things to say. Also, I've read around and have seen positive reviews. After reading articles on this forum about feeding feeders, it looks like the Flukers Orange Cube diet is made up of the same stuff, for the most part.

Fluker's Original Crickets Quencher
Orange Cube Cricket Diet

or what about

Hi-Cal. Cricket Diet

After the amazing experience last night with Bowser and the crickets, I'm thinking of making them as part of his staple. These products seem they would be the easiest...would love to hear if anyone uses these. The crickets I bought last night had these products in their cage and they all seemed pretty beefy and healthy. Had a ton of life and jump in their step.

I have some carrots and spinach...I'm going to put that in a container with a little saucer of water and buy more crickets. Since I have those foods, I mine as well use them!

I am sorry, but these products are not very good. There is a section on the caresheet with gutloading ideas. Okay so he is 5 months, if he is having bowels movements daily and not gaining too much weight, then you can continue feeding daily.

 

[Bowser]

I am sorry, but these products are not very good. There is a section on the caresheet with gutloading ideas. Okay so he is 5 months, if he is having bowels movements daily and not gaining too much weight, then you can continue feeding daily.

The spinach and carrots should be good tho right? I know the care sheet says collard greens, but i have read spinach is also good.

Can you help me with the logic for feeding? If he poops everyday, i can feed everyday. But lets say for example, he ate 10 crickets last night, so if he hasnt pooped yet, i shouldn't feed him today? How come? Just curious.

 

[cricket4u]

You do not want to feed veggies and fruit alone. I just posted in regards to this matter. Read the feeder, food and nutrition section.

I personally do not always follow the age rule. There are many variable which I cannot explain in one post. See, it's easier for a new reptile owner to follow the age rule in order to prevent underfeeding. After so many years you will eventually learn when they are slowing down and do not need to eat as much based on body condition, activity level, weight, size, age, ect.

 

[Bowser]

Ok so I guess Bowser will let me know how much and how often he will be fed!:idea:

I went and put a cricket in his cage right now and he went for it. I put a 2nd in and he just looked at it and walked away. I also noticed he pooped today. It was a huge poop...i took a pic and will post it here on Sunday. I wanna know if it looks healthy.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Post #18 immediately following the Leo Guidelines

#18---"Gutloading" prior to feeding off versus feeding "gutload" diet 24/7
Feeder Diet
I use primarily All Purpose Poultry Feed, dry oatmeal, and alfalfa hay (can be purchased at a Petco--hamster food). Just checked my box of Total...only 2% protein per serving.

It is important to always feed adequate protein level foods. Then you will always be ready to feed them to the geckos---no special gutload necessary. Just lightly dust the feeders with calcium with D3 and vitamins NO MORE THAN 2x weekly. The All Purpose Poultry Feed I use contains 16% protein and only 3% fat. Good stuff. Other people say gutload before feeding. If one feeds a decent diet to crickets, etc, all the time, then they will always be nutritious.

Check out Maurice Pudlo's link on the Leo Guidelines. Don't think he gives the protein or fat of his recommended insect diets.

IF crickets are only fed veggies and fruits, upkeep is greater, stinky crickets are nearly a given, and cricket longevity is decreased. An order of 2 wo or 3 wo crickets for me stays alive well beyond one month! (Not that we can totally compare, but when people are vegetarian some get protein from legumes.)

The method I suggest for feeding and keeping crickets is very easy.

Check Leo Guidelines for details on actual setup.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Ok so I guess Bowser will let me know how much and how often he will be fed!:idea:

I went and put a cricket in his cage right now and he went for it. I put a 2nd in and he just looked at it and walked away. I also noticed he pooped today. It was a huge poop...i took a pic and will post it here on Sunday. I wanna know if it looks healthy.

Fun to read, Mike, about how excited Bowser is making you . Sounds as if Bowser likes "hunting" and his new home very much.

 

[Bowser]

#18---"Gutloading" prior to feeding off versus feeding "gutload" diet 24/7
Feeder Diet
I use primarily All Purpose Poultry Feed, dry oatmeal, and alfalfa hay (can be purchased at a Petco--hamster food). Just checked my box of Total...only 2% protein per serving.

It is important to always feed adequate protein level foods. Then you will always be ready to feed them to the geckos---no special gutload necessary. Just lightly dust the feeders with calcium with D3 and vitamins NO MORE THAN 2x weekly. The All Purpose Poultry Feed I use contains 16% protein and only 3% fat. Good stuff. Other people say gutload before feeding. If one feeds a decent diet to crickets, etc, all the time, then they will always be nutritious.

Check out Maurice Pudlo's link on the Leo Guidelines. Don't think he gives the protein or fat of his recommended insect diets.



IF crickets are only fed veggies and fruits, upkeep is greater, stinky crickets are nearly a given, and cricket longevity is decreased. An order of 2 wo or 3 wo crickets for me stays alive well beyond one month! (Not that we can totally compare, but when people are vegetarian some get protein from legumes.)

The method I suggest for feeding and keeping crickets is very easy.

Check Leo Guidelines for details on actual setup.

Ohhh ok i got it. But do you mix the poultry feed, oatmeal and alfalfa together?? Or do you just use one of those?

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Ohhh ok i got it. But do you mix the poultry feed, oatmeal and alfalfa together?? Or do you just use one of those?

I do mix all 3 of those together in a 56 quart open Sterilite bin I keep them in. They love the poultry feed and the dry oatmeal. Not too sure how crazy they are about the alfalfa hay.

 

[CamLusted]

Gary has a very umm acquired taste.
Hates meal worms
Hates mice
but loves crickets

 

[Bowser]

Does this look healthy??

Hi guys, here's a pic of Bowser's poop...I was just wondering is it looks healthy. It was pretty friggin' big, I put my finger right next to it to show how big. Keep in mind he is only 5 months old.



I apologize for the nature of the question lol

 

[cricket4u]

I see mealworms that were not digested. Other than that it looks okay. What type of thermometer are you using to check temperatures?

 

[panthergecko]

Thats pheonix worms, too much and they poo what they dont need.

 

[Bowser]

I see mealworms that were not digested. Other than that it looks okay. What type of thermometer are you using to check temperatures?

Those are the Phoenix Worms. The last ones he ate were the 32 that he ended up throwing up. I think they are too small for him and he's eating a couple/few at a time and just swallowing whole. When he threw them up they were alive and still wiggling. His floor temps are a solid 94 degrees on the warm side cork tiles (which lie under both warm hides). Off the cork, the Kraft paper read about 98 right on the UTH. It drastically cools off towards the cool side. He has plenty of heat to aid the digestion. I was originally thinking his over indulgence was the reason for the undigested worms...

 

[cricket4u]

Those are the Phoenix Worms. The last ones he ate were the 32 that he ended up throwing up. I think they are too small for him and he's eating a couple/few at a time and just swallowing whole. When he threw them up they were alive and still wiggling. His floor temps are a solid 94 degrees on the warm side cork tiles (which lie under both warm hides). Off the cork, the Kraft paper read about 98 right on the UTH. It drastically cools off towards the cool side. He has plenty of heat to aid the digestion. I was originally thinking his over indulgence was the reason for the undigested worms...

There is a phoenix worm in the center, but a mealworms right beside it. Maybe it has been sitting in his stomach from right before he was shipped to you. You never answered what type of thermometer you are using? 98 is too high. My geckos will not lay in a hide if it's above 90f. It clearly shows that he is not spending enough time in the warm hide. If he is not spending at least a few hours a day without moving it means it's too hot. It's also quite obvious someone was dusting a bit too much(maybe the breeder) based on the size of the urates.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Gary has a very umm acquired taste.
Hates meal worms
Hates mice
but loves crickets

Please NEVER feed mice to leopard geckos, PLEASE! No matter what you have read, pinkies contain way too much fat for a leopard gecko. Don't feed waxworms either.

Glad Gary loves crickets. Crickets are the BEST staple for leos. Other variety is also important.

Check post #168 right on this thread for further information .

 

[Bowser]

There is a phoenix worm in the center, but a mealworms right beside it. Maybe it has been sitting in his stomach from right before he was shipped to you. You never answered what type of thermometer you are using? 98 is too high. My geckos will not lay in a hide if it's above 90f. It clearly shows that he is not spending enough time in the warm hide. If he is not spending at least a few hours a day without moving it means it's too hot. It's also quite obvious someone was dusting a bit too much(maybe the breeder) based on the size of the urates.

I use the exo terra digital thermometer/hygrometer. After getting zoo meds temp gun the temps are on par with each other.

Bowser seems to spend ALL his time on the warm side and loves his warm hides. I almost never see him on the cool side. Hell, he poops in his cool hide...thats what he thinks of the cool side! Lol :biggrin:

He likes his java log too. He rotates pretty evenly. He does spend a lot of time in his warm hide...cant say for sure exactly how much, cos im always coming and going, but a lot of times when i leave and come back a couple hours later hes still there.

 

[panthergecko]

His floor temps are a solid 94 degrees on the warm side cork tiles (which lie under both warm hides). Off the cork, the Kraft paper read about 98 right on the UTH.

The cork bark is on the paper, its not 98 floor temps its 94.