I agree with Derek's recommendations. I think some people overload the enclosures with too much stuff thinking the gecko will be more comfortable. But like Derek said, I feel that for the first few months, it is much more important that hatchlings can find food easily and eat it. You will need to make sure they have access to a warm spot that gets up to around 85 to 90 F(30 to 32 C). Also, I think feeding the feeder insects a good varied diet before feeding them to the gecko in very important. You will also want to lightly mist them once or twice a day for drinking water ( I don't use a water dish). And last is supplementing/UVB. I've had a few people ask me why I don't use UVB light for the Strophurus. The answer is simple. I've had what I feel is great success breeding them for years without using it but instead supplementing with calcium and D3 at every feeding. I've thought about switching to UVB light, but if I did so, I would have to cut out the D3 and I don't know what such a drastic change to my husbandry would do. I guess like the old saying goes, if it isn't broke don't fix it, so I've continued to do what works for me. The only real problems experienced with any of the Strophurus have been the ciliairis, which were discussed on another thread a few days ago. Had I felt the problem that showed up after several years of breeding them was a husbandry issue, I would have tried UVB, but I figured it was inbreeding and chose to stop breeding them all together. At any rate, I'm not saying using D3 is better than UVB. But using one or the other is important.
Hope this helps,
Jerry.