Few recent pics

Derek

New member
Hi everyone,

I was taking pics for a few people yesterday and decided to post a few. Hope you enjoy them!

Derek

Mad williamsi right before spraying me
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Gravid S.s.spinigerus
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Gravid deleani
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Updated coggeri pics
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bugman426

New member
Nice pics Derek....what camera do you use? I love the way your shots always come out

Also what sand is that?
 

Strophurus

New member
Hello Derek, very nice pictures of very nice animals again. Thanks for posting them.
we are all waiting for such pictures here.
regards stefan
 

djinnie

New member
the fourth picture :shock: absolutly shocking! What a stunning animal! Is that the S.s. spinigerus? And what does the second s stand for? (I'm new to this species :oops: )... Amazing!
 

Derek

New member
Thanks for the comments everyone. Getting sprayed by the williamsi was certainly an interesting experience!

Brennan - I haven't produced too many coggeri yet so I am probalby going to keep them.

Djinnie - the second "s" in S.s.spinigerus also stands for spinigerus. There are two subspecies of this gecko: Strophurus spinigerus spinigerus and Strophurus spinigerus inornatus. Hope this helps.

Derek
 

SPiny_tail

New member
nice pictures really nice blue mouths all the way

have you ever bred Spingerus strophurus (south western spinytailed) before, this year is my first season for breeding any geckos what so ever and i am not extremely confidient for when my little eggs hatch. Do you think you could give us some tips and hints for caring for there young thanks

p.s i wish i would get sprayed by mine sounds like fun
 

Derek

New member
Hi Spinytail,

This will be my first time breeding Strophurus spinigerus as well. I think someone like Jerry Peebles with more experience with this species as well as many other strophurus could answer your questions much better than I could. However, I would recommend keeping hatchlings the same was adults but in smaller enclosures, with only a few branches, and possibly using paper towel as a substrate for the first few months. The goal here is to make sure the hatchlings can easily spot and catch their prey. At the same time, you will be able to monitor what the geckos is or is not eatting and spot clean as neccessary. Hope this helps.

Derek
 

Jerry Peebles

New member
I agree with Derek's recommendations. I think some people overload the enclosures with too much stuff thinking the gecko will be more comfortable. But like Derek said, I feel that for the first few months, it is much more important that hatchlings can find food easily and eat it. You will need to make sure they have access to a warm spot that gets up to around 85 to 90 F(30 to 32 C). Also, I think feeding the feeder insects a good varied diet before feeding them to the gecko in very important. You will also want to lightly mist them once or twice a day for drinking water ( I don't use a water dish). And last is supplementing/UVB. I've had a few people ask me why I don't use UVB light for the Strophurus. The answer is simple. I've had what I feel is great success breeding them for years without using it but instead supplementing with calcium and D3 at every feeding. I've thought about switching to UVB light, but if I did so, I would have to cut out the D3 and I don't know what such a drastic change to my husbandry would do. I guess like the old saying goes, if it isn't broke don't fix it, so I've continued to do what works for me. The only real problems experienced with any of the Strophurus have been the ciliairis, which were discussed on another thread a few days ago. Had I felt the problem that showed up after several years of breeding them was a husbandry issue, I would have tried UVB, but I figured it was inbreeding and chose to stop breeding them all together. At any rate, I'm not saying using D3 is better than UVB. But using one or the other is important.

Hope this helps,

Jerry.
 
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