need some info on building rack systems.

leogirl16

leogirl16

New member
i'm wanting to build a rack system for my leos.
i need some help on as to what to get and how to start.
like whats the best wood to build the rack, and how mcuh it costs. whats the best heat tape to use(one that wont melt the plastic containers) and where i can get heat tape by the foot instead of inches. what the best plastic container is, and what size is good for adult leos.

do i have to keep the room at any temp to keep the inside of the plastic containers at the right temp or does the heat tape do that?
i want to build one that looks like this,
Boaphile Plastics!!! Thirty Drawer Shoe Rack !

or which one do u think is better?
this: Boaphile Plastics!!! Thirty Drawer Shoe Rack !
this: http://www.visionproducts.us/images7/TableTop_Hatchling.jpg
or this: http://www.visionproducts.us/images7/6post_10highco.jpg
 
cooper01

cooper01

New member
Hello, I personally like the last of your links. It provides the largest space for the leos. I'm kinda picky about it and think that they should have as large a habitat as possible. If there is any way to make the biggest one, I would highly recommend it. Just my two cents.
 
leoaddiction

leoaddiction

New member
It depends, if you're breeding i would get a hatchling rack for the babies and a larger one for adults.
If you want to make them, I really cant help you to that, as I am also looking for one or how to make one myself. Sorry if i didnt help much.
 
DecoGeckos

DecoGeckos

New member
I recently built one, it cost me roughly $300 without tubs and holds 40 hatchlings/adults (more if I put more than one hatchling per tub), and has 4 breeding tubs on the bottom. Any questions you have, I can try my best to answer!

Best wood:
That is really up to you! We used 3/4" birch wood. Why? I figured if I was building a rack, I might as well make it look as attractive as possible. What wood you use is really up to you...and what you can find in your price range. The thinner the wood, the more likely it will be that you will need center supports to keep the shelves from bowing over time.

Heat Tape:
I purchased my Flex Watt from The Bean Farm . I like their prices, and their willingness to help and talk me through it on the phone. They sell it by the foot. I went with 3", the same size more breeders I know go with. I have my rack set to 95*F...and it's not even CLOSE to melting the plastic. BUT, with a large rack, you are going to have to shell out the extra money for a GOOD thermostat. One that can control as much wattage as the rack will be pushing.

Tubs:
I got my tubs at The Container Store - The Original Storage and Organization Store® . I use the Men's Shoe Box size for BOTH my adults and hatchlings. They are roughly 15qts. Personally, I have not found a tub that is equal to the IRIS tubs from The Container Store both in strength and how easy it is to clean them.

I can post pictures of my rack if you would like. Any more questions feel free to ask!
 
leogirl16

leogirl16

New member
wow, so its not going to cost under $100 to build a rack:shock:, lol. should i leave the back of the rack open(build the rack with just the sides and the shelves) or put wood at the back? the 3" flex watt, does the 3" stand for the width of the heat tape or the length? what should i use for the inside of the tubs? substrate? hide? is there any particular substrate or hide that i should use? can i use Healthy Habitat Cleaner to clean the tubs? whats the best thermostat to control the wattage of the heat tape?

DecoGeckos said:
I recently built one, it cost me roughly $300 without tubs and holds 40 hatchlings/adults (more if I put more than one hatchling per tub), and has 4 breeding tubs on the bottom. Any questions you have, I can try my best to answer!

Best wood:
That is really up to you! We used 3/4" birch wood. Why? I figured if I was building a rack, I might as well make it look as attractive as possible. What wood you use is really up to you...and what you can find in your price range. The thinner the wood, the more likely it will be that you will need center supports to keep the shelves from bowing over time.

Heat Tape:
I purchased my Flex Watt from The Bean Farm . I like their prices, and their willingness to help and talk me through it on the phone. They sell it by the foot. I went with 3", the same size more breeders I know go with. I have my rack set to 95*F...and it's not even CLOSE to melting the plastic. BUT, with a large rack, you are going to have to shell out the extra money for a GOOD thermostat. One that can control as much wattage as the rack will be pushing.

Tubs:
I got my tubs at The Container Store - The Original Storage and Organization Store® . I use the Men's Shoe Box size for BOTH my adults and hatchlings. They are roughly 15qts. Personally, I have not found a tub that is equal to the IRIS tubs from The Container Store both in strength and how easy it is to clean them.

I can post pictures of my rack if you would like. Any more questions feel free to ask!
Click to expand...
 
DecoGeckos

DecoGeckos

New member
leogirl16 said:
wow, so its not going to cost under $100 to build a rack:shock:, lol. should i leave the back of the rack open(build the rack with just the sides and the shelves) or put wood at the back? the 3" flex watt, does the 3" stand for the width of the heat tape or the length? what should i use for the inside of the tubs? substrate? hide? is there any particular substrate or hide that i should use? can i use Healthy Habitat Cleaner to clean the tubs? whats the best thermostat to control the wattage of the heat tape?
Click to expand...

Oh definitely not less than $100! I mean, if you build like a 6 leo rack, maybe, but it all adds up rather quickly.

The back of the rack can be left open. Mine is backed up to the wall, so there are no major drafts to be worried about.

3" flex watt describes the width. You order it by the foot.

Inside of the tubs I use paper towel as substrate, and a Walmart brand container as a moist hide. Inside the hide is sphagnum moss, moistened.

As for cleaning and sanitizing I used a weakened vinegar solution for weekly cleanings, and a bleach solution once a month for the "big clean". Healthy Habitat would be fine, but I would still suggest the once a month thorough cleaning.

As for thermostat, I use a Herpstat and really love it. When dealing with a rack, or with incubation, you want to spring for the little bit expensive, GOOD brand temperature control device. Also, something to keep in mind is to make sure your rack does not exceed the maximum wattage that the thermostat can control. Here is an example:

3" heat tape = 10 watts per foot
My rack has passes of 3.5' per row, with 12 rows total = 42' total of heat tape
42 x 10 = 420 watts for my WHOLE rack, therefore I went with the 500 watt Herpstat Proportional
 
leogirl16

leogirl16

New member
someone told me that they cut a hole for the cords to go threw. i kinda forgot what i was talking about:) but, about the bleach thing i'm a little scared to use it because i'm afraid i might use more bleach then i'm supose to and kill my geckos:(
 
DecoGeckos

DecoGeckos

New member
Well you don't BATHE them in it lol. I use about a cap full of bleach per bucket, and wipe the tubs out, rinse them VERY well, and let them air dry.

As far as the cords, did you mean out the SIDE? Where they come from the heat tape?

Here is a side view of the rack I built...I didn't put full sides on it, as you can see.
DSC04108.jpg
 
leogirl16

leogirl16

New member
not putting full sides on it, does that make stronger and last longer than the ones built with full sides? its a beautiful herp rack, how long did it take to build? did u use nails to hold the wood together? where exactly do u put the heat tape? under neath the plastic tub?
 
Last edited:
DecoGeckos

DecoGeckos

New member
Well it doesn't make it stronger, it's just a way of doing it that allows for all the cords, otherwise, you'll have dozens of holes drilled in the sides to get the wiring for the heat tape through. I used nails and staples from a gun. Here is a picture of the rack itself, and of the tape along the back of each shelf.

DSC04818.jpg


DSC04823.jpg


Here is a view of the BACK of the rack, with the heat tape under the tubs:
DSC04163.jpg
 
leogirl16

leogirl16

New member
wow, thanks, this is really helping me out. the the felx watt you can get by the foot? so u just need one or two felx watts for every shelf?
 
DecoGeckos

DecoGeckos

New member
As long as you cut it where you are supposed to (and not on a heat conducting black strip), and correctly seal the end with electrical tape just in case, you will be fine.
 
leoaddiction

leoaddiction

New member
Guys i still dont get how heat tape works. I know its silly. But do you put a whole shelves worth at once, then connect the wire? And you place it directly onto the wood? Wont it cause a fire? Just being precautious, sorry if i seem like a noob.
 
leoaddiction

leoaddiction

New member
oh and do you keep the lid on the containers or not? Is there a "drawer" system or you just pull them out and place them like that. Thanks alot for the help.
 
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