Contribution Thread: Uroplatus breeding

[Graham_s]

Ok, we’re going to try something slightly new here. I will try to summarise as concisely as possible, but please read.



The idea of this thread is to have straight-to-the-point information, contributed by GU members.



There are so many different variations of husbandry and methods that people use, and some members don’t usually volunteer information, they just comment. There is also relatively little known about many of the species on these forums.



This thread’s purpose is to accumulate valuable knowledge and important experience, in the hope that we can all get a better understanding of the species concerned and to make for easier research and reference by having all the information in the one thread.


Every post should contain information about the topic ONLY, based on your own experience or knowledge. This should result in a thread with no comments or discussion, but just factual post after factual post.


In case people’s posts inspire some discussion, there is also a discussion thread here: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...uroplatus-breeding-post315274.html#post315274


We also hope that some of the more experienced (and less active) users will be inspired to join in and share their valuable knowledge.

If this takes off, then we may have other threads like this.
In order for this to work, it is essential that contributions aren’t speculatory, but are factual and based on your own experience or knowledge. Please also make your contributions as detailed as possible.

The topic of this thread is:
“Uroplatus breeding: How do you prepare your geckos for breeding, and what triggers have you used to encourage breeding? How do you change conditions for breeding season? If you have had problems with breeding, have you re-attempted (and succeeded) with breeding by making alterations?”



These threads will be made un-sticky again once the contribution has got going.


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[Graham_s]

No one yet? Ok, I will get the ball rolling and start with the following species:

Uroplatus aff. ebenaui (Montagne d’Ambre locale)


How I prepare my geckos for breeding:
I make sure that they are a healthy sort of weight. I usually judge this by eye because the scales that I have aren’t very accurate. I have found that a good breeding weight is around 9-10g though.
My females are checked for having reasonable calcium reserves, (which are located on the sides of their neck). I check that my males are healthy, are of a reasonable size and weight also, although males are usually more slender than females.


When my geckos are separated over the winter, I make sure that there is no way that the geckos can see each other through the sides of the glass. I don’t know if this makes a difference when they are introduced in the spring, as I haven’t experimented with it, but I have always done it. I think it may have a significant effect, but it is very difficult to prove it or disprove it.


Introducing geckos for breeding:

When I introduce my geckos in the spring, I increase temperatures gradually (from about 16-18C during the day to 20-22C, reaching a maximum of about 23-24C when breeding season has got going properly. Increasing misting when introducing the geckos and throughout the breeding season seems to be essential.


Triggering breeding behaviour:

If I have ever wanted to trigger breeding behaviour, I have separated the male for 2 weeks or so, and then reintroduced them. I have found that introducing another female to the group can also encourage breeding behaviour. Using UV lighting also seems to influence how active the geckos are. I therefore assume that it has an influence on breeding behaviour as well, but I have always used UV lighting, so I have nothing to make a comparison with.

 

[jadrig]

Uroplatus henkeli

I would imagine that these are the easiest of the Uroplatus species to breed. The real challenge with henkeli is having the female nutritionally sound before she starts cycling. Besides Calcium(Rep Cal) and an increase in feeding...henkeli do not really need any triggers for breeding. Small enclosure size will not hinder breeding. Also, you want your female to be around for the NEXT breeding season. Do not burn them out. Separate her from the male when she needs a break.
The females give off pheromones a day or two before they lay their clutch. The male will start to put pressure on her to mate, but she is not receptive (due to the two big eggs she is about to lay). The female will let out a shreeking/squealing noise to ward him off. After she lays her eggs, she will be receptive within the following two nights. I have had females lay around 16 eggs in one season (both fertile/infertile). The males are relentless when it comes to mating, so it is key to keep her nutritionally sound.

 

[rhacoboy]

Uroplatus Pietschmanni

Uroplatus Pietschmanni:


I was lucky enough to obtain all of my Pietschmanni before the start of the cooling season. I keep them in a 1.3 arrangement. I kept all of my females together in an 18x18x36" Screen enclosure in a room in the mid 60's. Three of the sides were kept covered tightly and neatly by a plastic garbage bag. The male was kept in an 12x12x18" Zoo Med enclosure in a slightly cooler room (Low 60's). I misted the cages every other day heavily. In March they were all placed in an 18x24x36" glass sliding door cage. I use cork backgrounds, several cork flats (I've found they like flats better than tubes) and a snake plant. Mistings were increased to about 2 times a day heavily, sometimes 1 time a day sufficed. Naturally, due to season changes, temperatures increased to high 70's. So far, I have received 5 good eggs from the Pietschmanni group. The females have laid all of their eggs in the bottom of the leaves of the snake plants, with the exception of two clutches. Only one egg out of those two clutches still appears good, and all eggs laid in the plants (4) are looking perfect.

Hope this helps.
-Armen