Feeding Regimes

[lauraleellbp]

I'm never going to feed butterworms to a Crestie, but if people have fed them to Phelsuma without problems then that's fine.

I had a breeder who's NOT active on any forums tell me that butterworms are dangerous to cresties as well.

 

[rhino43grr]

i should clarify that the butterworms i ordered are for my leopard gecko. i don't have any other geckos and i don't want people to get upset under the assumption that i mean i'm going to feed butterworms to cresteds or gargoyles after finding out they've had issues with them.

 

[lauraleellbp]

I've been having a conversation with Julie Bergman (The Gecko Ranch) about supplements for her female P. m. grandis and she's encouraging me to feed the Repashy SuperVite mixed with SuperCalHyD (50/50 mix) to females during the laying season. She reports she's been doing this for about a year and gets much better hatch rates and females no longer show inclination to eat eggshells- which she interprets as they are getting sufficient calcium in their diets. She alternates this with the Repashy DGD and ICB dusted crickets.

Curious- anyone else doing this with their Phelsuma?

 

[daggekko]

Is she dusting these on the crickets or mixing it in the dgd? Or both?!?

 

[lauraleellbp]

No- my understanding is she's using the SuperVite/HyD mix as a stand alone diet (which is how it's designed, not to be an insect dusting product like ICB or mixed in the MRP). I've asked her how many times a week she feeds that vs the standard MRP but don't have her response just yet.

Here's Allen's description of the SuperVite, btw:

DIRECTIONS: This product can be used as a stand-alone supplement, or mixed with the SuperCal series of Calcium supplements to balance both vitamin and mineral requirements. Using a 1:1 ratio with the SuperCal formulas is a great starting point for supplementation depending on species requirements. It can be mixed with SuperCal (HyD, MeD, LoD, NoD), or used on altered feedings for great flexibility. For insects, dust using the “shake and bake” method with or without SuperCal, depending on your protocol. For fresh fruit and vegetables, mix one heaping teaspoon per Pound. For an “All-in -One” solution, please try Repashy’s Calcium Plus. Refrigeration will extend product life.

From: http://www.store.repashy.com/supervite.html

 

[daggekko]

Ok, now that brings up another question-Does she use this on all her females or only on the ones without UV lighting? It seems very contradicting to use the HyD on animals recieving UV lighting.

 

[colinmelsom]

Interesting points.I asked the same question on a British forum aboutultravilet light and artificial supplementation of vitamin D3.Allen Repashey(!) replied and said that it was difficult to overdose with the two.I have always been warned away from using both natural and artificial sources.

I must admit I am a bit perplexed by the range of Repashy foods.There are lots to choose from.They seem popular in the States but have only recently come over the pond.Do you get other manufacturers of dry foods over there?

 

[daggekko]

The only other dry foods diet I've really taken notice to in the US is Clarks Frugivorous Gecko Diet. My geckos loved it the first time I tried it. I have a second flavor I still need to try. T-Rex has bottles made for a line of diets but they are made by Allen repashy. There might be some by zoomed or flukers as well but I can't remember off the top of my head. I've seen a bunch of neat looking products over in your neck of the woods, but I usually can't read the labels!

 

[lauraleellbp]

OK Julie just emailed me back and clarified- I was confused and not correct earlier. The 50/50 mix she DOES use for dusting insects for active breeders, not as a diet instead of DGD. She uses the regular ICB for dusting insects for non breeders. She told me she used this mix both with geckos under UV and geckos not under UV and could not tell any difference.

And no, there really aren't many other diets to choose from in the US that are already balanced and use the same level of quality in the ingredients that the Repashy products do. I wouldn't be adverse to trying out the Clarks complete diet if I ever saw it for sale- but I've never seen it and I'm not curious enough to try and track down a seller when the places I normally order supplies through carry the Repashy lines. Flukers does make a diet they claim is for crested geckos, but it's horrible- dried pellets with totally incorrect ingredients that most cresties won't touch anyways.

I don't find the Repashy products confusing, honestly. The ONLY difference between the CGD MRPs is the flavorings used. The supplements can get a little more confusing- THAT is when you have to do your homework and know the species you're working with, to know what extra they may or may not need. (And was where I was struggling with day gecko supplementation needs, since I'm spoiled by everything Cresties needing being right inside their CGD lol)

I've found the whole UV/D3 overdose issue a little confusing myself. After reading quite a few threads on it, my current understanding is that the only way to trigger a D3 overdose is by FEEDING too much D3. If a gecko's body already has enough D3 then being under UV shouldn't automatically trigger an overdose- the body just won't produce more. The risk comes from a gecko's body already having enough D3 and then feeding more D3 on top of that.

 

[colinmelsom]

Laura,your last paragraph,thats precisely why I dont feed my Phelsuma extra D3 because They have access to ultraviolet light.I dont know how easy it is to overdose D3 but my geckos seem fine with ultraviolet and a calcium/phosphorous admix.I can understand feeding it if they dont have access to ultraviolet but personally I am not willing to take the risk.

 

[lauraleellbp]

Laura,your last paragraph,thats precisely why I dont feed my Phelsuma extra D3 because They have access to ultraviolet light.I dont know how easy it is to overdose D3 but my geckos seem fine with ultraviolet and a calcium/phosphorous admix.I can understand feeding it if they dont have access to ultraviolet but personally I am not willing to take the risk.

Yeah, I'm on the opposite side of the fence with that same issue- since I'll be feeding the Repashy MRPs and they already contain D3, I'm not sure if I will need to use UV with Lygodactylus hatchlings or not... I haven't been able to get a clear answer on that since there don't seem to be many (any?) Lygodactylus breeders that use the Repashy diets as a staple... :/

I know I won't need UV with P. m. grandis or standingi hatchlings.

 

[daggekko]

I would do the UV lighting with the baby Lygos regardless because it seems like from reading about success and failure of growing hatchling Lygos past the first week or so is dependent on the UV lights. Those that don't use them see something like a 90% death rate(it has been a minute since I've looked though)

 

[lauraleellbp]

I would do the UV lighting with the baby Lygos regardless because it seems like from reading about success and failure of growing hatchling Lygos past the first week or so is dependent on the UV lights. Those that don't use them see something like a 90% death rate(it has been a minute since I've looked though)

I've read that too- but none of them were feeding the Repashy MRPs several times a week either, so it still leaves me with lots of ????s

I may try both ways as a small experiment. Should be easy enough to switch on a bulb if hatchlings without don't appear to be doing as well as those with, or turn off if vice versa...

I do need to narrow it down soon, though, so I can figure out how to design my hatchling enclosures and rack system.

 

[daggekko]

I would add fluorescent strip lights regardless. You can always buy regular bulbs or UV lamps. Depending on how big your rack is you could buy the strips lights that will hold 2 tubes. I got mine from lowes for about $15. 48" black strip. I figure you can't go wrong setting up for tubes since regardless of which way you go they are only going to make everything look better

 

[lauraleellbp]

Oh agreed. Though they don't make T5 UV bulbs (that I know of, or if they do, I'm sure they'd be crazy expensive), so that's something I'm weighing out since I'm a big fan of T5s...

Do you guys stick with using incandescent bulbs for creating basking spots in small hatchling enclosures? Most of the pictures I'm seeing, people seem to be relying on heat coming off their standard spiral flourescent bulbs... which seems to me might not make it warm enough for P. standingi?

 

[colinmelsom]

Arcadia in the U.K. produce T5 ultraviolet lights.Apparently they are producing them for the American market.Have a look on arcadia-uk They have good reviews although I have never used them

 

[daggekko]

Colinmelsom, that is great to hear. I was being told about them a day or so ago. Didn't realize they were going to be in the US!!!

lauraleellbp, depends on a few factors. I use compact fluorescent bulbs that screw in like incandescents on my kritter keepers. They are 10 watts and provide pretty good color. Since the kritter keepers are so short and small, and that I have heat tape under them I don't feel like they need a real hot spot lamp. My 10's though have 2 48" fluorescents and either a 25w or 40w basking incandescent. I just walked in my room and it is 85F! Freaking warm ugh. But that is another factor you have to consider-if your room is cold you need warmer basking lamps, room is warm not so hot basking lamps. I'm sure you've figured this though(not trying to be an ass). With the incandescent bulbs I buy these GE reveal bulbs because they have better color than regular bulbs. A lot of other people seem to use the halogen puck lights but I tried them once and just don't care to try them again.

 

[lauraleellbp]

I just bought one of the halogen puck lights to try out. I hope it works, b/c that would really be the most practical option for me. I try not to keep my office (gecko room) too warm due to all the cresties, so I try to keep it no warmer than mid 70s.

Seems like there's still quite a bit to learn in regards to Phelsuma husbandry in light of the newer technology and food options.

 

[daggekko]

From what others said, you should put your oil light on a dimmer and set it at about 50% power. I had mine blow out within a week or so every time and they also have a very direct beam so the hot spot will be hotter than a regular incandescent bulb.

Mid 70's is awesome! Good night temps without extra needed heat!!

 

[lauraleellbp]

Yup, one of the plusses of living in SW Florida.