Leopard Gecko NOT eating!!! Please help!!!

Geckogirl500

New member
My female leopard gecko has been refusing to eat. She is around ten years old and she is only my third leopard gecko I’ve had. For about 3 months she has been eating very little, eating a cricket maybe once a week at best. I have tried all sorts of things to get to eat from dead crickets to live ones, mealworms, pinkies, and waxworms. I’ve normally fed her every other day and she use to have this gorgeous fat purple tail, but it’s shrunken in size dramatically. I took her to the vet about a month ago and they said she was healthy looking and recommended raising my tank’s temperature. I increased it to around ninety degrees and her condition has not gotten any better. She and her roommate, another leopard gecko around eleven years old, have gone through this fasting period before but it’s only lasted about three weeks at most and it always seemed to have occurred yearly, so I believed it was a hibernation thing going on. She’s never been in any fight with the other. She appears healthy, bright eyed, active, and no physical changes other than her shrinking tail. Her tank is around 18 by 18, two hiding spots, a basking light and UV light, yellow sand substrate, and one hiding spot has moss to provide a humid area. I’ve reread all my books and am completely stumped by why she’s not eating. Currently she is being “fed” Fluker’s Repta+Boost, insectivore high amp boost, but she barely laps up half of the measured amount. Please help me, I do not know why she’s like this!!!
 

cricket4u

New member
My female leopard gecko has been refusing to eat. She is around ten years old and she is only my third leopard gecko I’ve had. For about 3 months she has been eating very little, eating a cricket maybe once a week at best. I have tried all sorts of things to get to eat from dead crickets to live ones, mealworms, pinkies, and waxworms. I’ve normally fed her every other day and she use to have this gorgeous fat purple tail, but it’s shrunken in size dramatically. I took her to the vet about a month ago and they said she was healthy looking and recommended raising my tank’s temperature. I increased it to around ninety degrees and her condition has not gotten any better. She and her roommate, another leopard gecko around eleven years old, have gone through this fasting period before but it’s only lasted about three weeks at most and it always seemed to have occurred yearly, so I believed it was a hibernation thing going on. She’s never been in any fight with the other. She appears healthy, bright eyed, active, and no physical changes other than her shrinking tail. Her tank is around 18 by 18, two hiding spots, a basking light and UV light, yellow sand substrate, and one hiding spot has moss to provide a humid area. I’ve reread all my books and am completely stumped by why she’s not eating. Currently she is being “fed” Fluker’s Repta+Boost, insectivore high amp boost, but she barely laps up half of the measured amount. Please help me, I do not know why she’s like this!!!
Hello,

Can you copy, paste and answer these questions. The more information the better.

Gender:
Age:
Weight:
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner):
Captive bred or wild caught?

Enclosure:

Cage: type, size:
Substrate provided?
What types of hiding places are provided?
Is there a humidity hide?
Please describe any other furnishings:

Lighting:

Artificial lighting?
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ?
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?

Temperature:

Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type?
What is the temperature in the warmest part of the cage? In the coolest part?
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, heat pad,
warm room, heat light, ceramic heater, aquarium heater, other:

Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?

Humidity:

Is the humidity measured? Range:


List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months)
Are any of your other pets ill?
List recent changes in the environment, if any:

Diet:

Insects, list type?
Are they “gut loaded” or dusted before feeding to your reptile?
How often do you feed your reptile?
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:

If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain
Discharge from the eyes or nose
Increased breathing rate or effort
Change in the droppings
Abnormal skin color or shedding
Parasites on the skin or in the feces
Weakness

Has your reptile been seen by a veterinarian for any of the current problems?

If yes, when?
Please list medications given:
Please list tests performed:
 

cricket4u

New member
I will at least mention a few things ahead of time. An 18x18 is barely enough for one gecko, and you have 2 in that space, so that should be corrected. Sand and a low temperature of 90 degrees is asking for impaction. I suggest you remove it ASAP and replaced with paper towel or slate tiles. UVB in such a small area is dangerous and should be removed.
 

Saskia

New member
Please please answer to cricket's questionary, she´ll be for sure able to help you, and as she said correct some issues righat away, the sand is a very bad choice, please remove it right away!! They are NOT sandy desert animals as many people believe, and if you receintly raised the temperatures to 90 it means they were kept at a cooler temperature before, that could be an issue, they should have a temperature gradient, having a cold side and a warm side, and the warm side should ideally be around 92-95F, are you using an UTH or just the light?? That could be a problem as well, since they do need belly heat in order to digest their food and boost their apetite, they are nocturnal animals and lights stress them, they don´t need or want UV light, they´ll do much much better with a UTH, and being kept either or paper towel or ideally on slate tile
 

Geckogirl500

New member
First off I want to thank both of you so much because I have really been worrying and stressing over this situation and just thank you so much!!! I just finished reading your posts after I filled out the questionnaire and so these answers are the current situation. Tomorrow I am going to completely remodel my tank and place them in a larger octagon tank with 444 inches of surface area and replace all the sand with paper towels. What do you recommend as a permanent substitute for the bedding and tank measurement unless the octagon tank is large enough? I turned off the UV and I guess I'll purchase a UTH light instead and what wattage do you recommend? If she does have impaction what do you recommend doing? Once again thank you very much. I'll try and post pictures of the tank and the gecko.

Gender: Female
Age: 10 years
Weight: 55gm
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it? She was a juvenile about four inches long
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): Pet Co
Captive bred or wild caught? Captive bred

Enclosure:
Cage: type, I believe it is a Zoo Med brand cage size: 17.5 x 17.5 x 17 inches
Substrate provided? Zoo Med ReptiSand, the yellow kind
What types of hiding places are provided? A large Exo Terra Reptile Den with magnet that allows the inside to be seen; it has a top floor and a bottom. Also a ½ log hideout
Is there a humidity hide? The log is lined with Zoo Med New Zealand sphagnum moss, soaked daily
Please describe any other furnishings: There is a turtle dock placed on top of the log to provide a basking area. There is a water dish, cleaned daily. There is a rock in the corner and small flat ones placed in the sand. There is a plastic palm tree looking thing in the center. Lastly there is a bowl that usual has a couple of dusted mealworms and some food for them.

Lighting: I use a R-Zilla circular lamp that has a circular uv light and a R-Zilla 50 watt bulb in the center. There is another lamp, a Zoo Med brand with a UVB bulb on one side and a Zoo-Med basking spot lamp, 75w. Lastly pointed at the corner is a normal desk top lamp with an incandescent 50 watt. The lights are timed to turn off at 8PM and on at 8Am.

Artificial lighting? yes
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ? two 50w and one 75w
fluorescent (tube bulbs)? A 10.0 UVB

Temperature:
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type? Yes, a Fluker’s round thermometer
What is the temperature in the warmest part of the cage? 110 In the coolest part? 80
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, heat pad, There is a heat pad underneath the half log that is constantly on
warm room, heat light, ceramic heater, aquarium heater, other: just the lighting

Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much? Yes, the tank is normally around 90 degrees and at night it reaches 75

Humidity:
Is the humidity measured? Range: Yes, stays around 50% humidity

List other animals that are kept in the same cage: Another large, 75gm female leopard gecko. Been together for 10 years.
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months) no
Are any of your other pets ill? The other lizard seemed to have experienced this fasting period but she eats now
List recent changes in the environment, if any: I the R-Zilla lighting and the desktop lamp and added a turtle dock so that they can have a basking area

Diet:
Insects, list type? Crickets, live are bought from Petsmart and gut loaded with collard greens, dog food, fish food, and oats and the dead one are Fluker’s Gourmet Style Crickets, and Timberline Giant Mealworms
Are they “gut loaded” or dusted before feeding to your reptile? Crickets are gutloaded and dusted, mealworms are dusted and have food in the dish; I use a mixture of Rep-Cal Multivitamins and Rep-Cal Calcium with Vitamin D.

How often do you feed your reptile? Attempt to feed her insects every day around 9pm; She is slurping up 3ml of Repta+Boost, High Amp Boost every other day, although I’m considering giving it to her every day. The last time she has eaten an insect was a cricket on the 21st. I just finished giving her the formula and she saw one crawling and ate it. Usually she shows an alertness to what I put in front of her but then she just walks away from it. Both of them use to be on a schedule of one day cricket, the next day two mealworms, and the third day nothing and then repeat, but I haven’t done that in a long time.
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often? Repta+Boost, every other day.
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: I tried feeding her pinkies. She didn’t eat it but the other one did. I also tried giving her the pre-package crickets and that worked for a day and she lost interest in them.
If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
Decreased amount of eating; started to fast around December, has eaten very little since.
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased? normal
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased? Decreased dramatically; eating very little
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain: Definitely weight loss
Discharge from the eyes or nose: no
Increased breathing rate or effort: no
Change in the droppings : smaller, about half an inch long, and she use to have a bit more watery stool, but that went away
Abnormal skin color or shedding : no
Parasites on the skin or in the feces : none visible
Weakness: no

Has your reptile been seen by a veterinarian for any of the current problems?
Yes, they recommended raising the temperature and changing the cricket diet to include collards; They said the gecko looks healthy in general
If yes, when? 3 weeks ago, gecko’s condition has not changed
Please list medications given: none
Please list tests performed: visible examination
 

Geckogirl500

New member
This is Bluebonnet, my anorexic gecko, and the sucky tank that she has been living in. If there's something you need a picture of specifically, just tell me and I'll get it.
 

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cricket4u

New member
There are so many things of concern. Did the vet check her feces?
At this point her tail is not actually thin, so that's a good thing.

Concerns: Pinkies, Waxworms- too much fat, no more please.
UVB in small enclosure and a UVB 10 which is too high. (Remove)
You were feeding the insects dog food. (never again please)
First the temp- was too low, then now too high 110 is way too high!
Remove sand and buy slate tiles and a UTH.


You need a thermometer with a probe or a temp gun to measure correctly.
Cool side 75-77~ warm side floor 90-95 / air temp 75-85 / humidity 40-45

The vet would have known if she was impacted when he transilluminated her. I guess her liver appeared normal?
How often are you dusting with D3?
 
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Geckogirl500

New member
Wow, I can't believe I've been doing so many things wrong. :shock: Ok, so no, the feces was not checked, the pinkies and the UVB are out, I will NEVER again feed the crickets dog food. The desktop lamp has been removed so the temperature should decrease. Hopefully with the larger cage I can add more heat to one side and leave the other side cooler. I guess her liver is normal because the vet didn't say anything about that and so that good. And the calicium powder has the Vit.d mixed with it so each time the cricket and mealworms are dusted, they get some Vit.d.
Oh, and @Saskia I do use a lamp and a UHT, sorry thought it was a light at first.
 
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cricket4u

New member
Wow, I can't believe I've been doing so many things wrong. :shock: Ok, so no, the feces was not checked, the pinkies and the UVB are out, I will NEVER again feed the crickets dog food. The desktop lamp has been removed so the temperature should decrease. Hopefully with the larger cage I can add more heat to one side and leave the other side cooler. I guess her liver is normal because the vet didn't say anything about that and so that good. And the calicium powder has the Vit.d mixed with it so each time the cricket and mealworms are dusted, they get some Vit.d.
Well, the only thing he can see if the liver is enlarged. It does not rule out the possibility of liver disease or fat deposits. Let's just pray that is not the case. If she continues dropping weight I recommend blood work to check liver, kidney function and calcium level which should be be done on all adult reptiles anyway. A fecal exam should be done as well. At the age of ten she does not need D3 or Multivitamins more than once a week. I would dust with plain calcium the rest of the days. I recommend you feed variety of insects instead. Crickets, phoenix worms, silkworms, roaches, baby hornworms. These are lower in fat and healthier. If she is comfortable being soaked, I would soak her for 15 minutes a day, for a few days. Make all these changes and let see if there is any progress. Also read through these posts so that you can understand the importance of a healthy varied diet.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ral-supplementation-exception-vitamin-d3.html

http://www.geckotime.com/vitamin-a-deficiency-in-leopard-geckos/

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/pests-diseases/62178-educational-links.html
 
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Geckogirl500

New member
Thank you so much for helping me and for taking the time to do this. I really hope with all these changes that she's starts to get better. I'll follow your instructions down to the letter and start giving her better care. Once again thank you for helping some random Joe on the internet who doesn't know what the crud she's doiing. It really does mean alot, and I'll keep you posted on the new changes that happen.
One last question, should I gut load superworms along with the crickets? Or would they be fine as is?
 
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AnthonyRenna

New member
Superworms are horrible nutrition wise, even with dusting they just aren't that good. That being said I'll use them as treats on occasion, look into silkworms, dubia roaches, phoenix worms(black soldier grubs) these are all much better feeders.
 

Geckogirl500

New member
I am happy to say that I have completely remodeled the tank. Their new tank is 25 inches in length and width and each side of the octagon is 12in. The temperature is 95 at the hot side and 79 at the cool side, although I've just added an extra lamp to warm up their new slate. I also bought canned grasshoppers and cricket. I saw canned caterpillars, but I'm not sure if those are nutritionally good. Would you recommend buying those? I also bought Calci Worms, which are the same species as phoenix, Hermetia illucens, but I guess they're from a different company. And the crickets are now feed a mixture of carrots, collards, Total Whole Grain Cereal, fish food, oats, and I put a bit of calcium in there too. I also bought pure calcium to dust their food regularly. I hope with these changes, that Bluebonnet will get better.
 

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cricket4u

New member
I am happy to say that I have completely remodeled the tank. Their new tank is 25 inches in length and width and each side of the octagon is 12in. The temperature is 95 at the hot side and 79 at the cool side, although I've just added an extra lamp to warm up their new slate. I also bought canned grasshoppers and cricket. I saw canned caterpillars, but I'm not sure if those are nutritionally good. Would you recommend buying those? I also bought Calci Worms, which are the same species as phoenix, Hermetia illucens, but I guess they're from a different company. And the crickets are now feed a mixture of carrots, collards, Total Whole Grain Cereal, fish food, oats, and I put a bit of calcium in there too. I also bought pure calcium to dust their food regularly. I hope with these changes, that Bluebonnet will get better.

Applaud!! Only one concern, the piece of slate that is against the glass. I have this fear of them getting pinched or crushed if it falls. Sorry, I know I sound paranoid. As for the canned food, to be honest I would never feed canned foods. I am not telling you to throw them away, but in the future it's best to feed only live healthy and hydrated insects. The calci worms are good. They do not need to be dusted (they are balanced). Well, lets just keep are fingers crossed and give her a fews day. :)
 
Im glad yopu got most things worked out. I am not telling you to buy a new, new cage but leopard geckos dont need a tall tank they need a longer one. I will post a pic of mine in a second. Other than that if you dont already have a uth (under tank heater) I would get one because theyneed stomach heat they are nocturnal too so they dont need a large light just one to simulate daylight which I do just by having the light in the room they are in on. good luck
 

Geckogirl500

New member
Yeah, I'll arrange the slate to make sure it won't fall. And I'll add the third hiding area. Thank you for all the advice everyone and I already have good news! She just ate two superworms (I know, not the best nutritional food, but it's better than starving) and she was really interested in the cali-worms, taking a few bites at them. :yahoo: I think with a little bit more coaxing, she'll eat them. This is pretty amazing that the results are showing up so fast, so I really feel good about this. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!! :biggrin:
@Dancing -Yeah, the only reason that I chose this tank was because it was sitting in my garage gathering dust and its bigger so, you know, might as well use it. And they do have a UTH, so thanks for the concern. :)
 

cricket4u

New member
Yeah, I'll arrange the slate to make sure it won't fall. And I'll add the third hiding area. Thank you for all the advice everyone and I already have good news! She just ate two superworms (I know, not the best nutritional food, but it's better than starving) and she was really interested in the cali-worms, taking a few bites at them. :yahoo: I think with a little bit more coaxing, she'll eat them. This is pretty amazing that the results are showing up so fast, so I really feel good about this. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!! :biggrin:
@Dancing -Yeah, the only reason that I chose this tank was because it was sitting in my garage gathering dust and its bigger so, you know, might as well use it. And they do have a UTH, so thanks for the concern. :)

Amazing what a few corrections can do right? :biggrin: I am just very happy to hear that she started eating again. Never give the large items first. They will refuse the small. Calci worms are way healthier than superworms, so really try to get her to eat them. Some struggle with them because they are so small. Try silkworms at least once a month. They are very nutritious and the geckos really love them.
 
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