I'm going to shed some light on my previous temperature comment. This is random writing so don't expect perfect grammar.
I am a forum noob for the most part. I had never had much time to play around on the internet, but when I finally did I was shocked and disappointed.
I could not understand why people were having so many problems with leopard geckos. To me they were a piece of cake. Then I began researching, collecting data from several forums, websites, ect. The amount of improper information was outrageous. Yes, I was naive to the matter.
At the same time I had local friends call me and asked if I can come over and see if I can help with a gecko. Many of the problems I was seeing was obesity, dehydration, anorexia, regurgitation, constipation. When I went to these people's home I realized they were only providing belly heat. I asked why, "Because I read it on the internet." Well the problem with that is reptiles are not capable of internally regulating body temp unlike mammals and humans.
Yes, Leopard geckos practice thigmothermic behavior because they are crepuscular, eyes sensative to light (no they will not go blind just by being exposed to sunlight in a few minutes), which increases the chance of becoming prey.This does not mean that they only need belly heat. They do get warm completely by protective basking in between rocks, exposing a body part, ect.
Time and time again I have people lie to me and then they wonder why their gecko is not getting better. I will show up at their home and low and behold my suspicion was correct. Excuse- I didn't think it was important. Belly heat was 94, but air temp at 70 degrees. I made sure they raise it and the geckos gets better. Yes, they can live at lower temps, but most will have shorter lifespans.:shock:
God forbid the diet! Blame it on too little D3 when you are feeding worms which calcium rarely sticks to causing a diet
too high in phosphorus. Most of these problems are due to poor diet, poor heating, being kept too dry. I have known people who own leo's and live in places where the humidity is normally remains high for most part of the year and not one gecko had a case of upper respiratory infection. 40-45% RH will help with dehydration.
Care must be taken not to overheat the enclosures. Huge problem in small areas and can lead to terrible consequences.
DO NOT/B]allow the enclosure to exceed 85 air temp on the warmer end, unless they have lower temp options available.
Can't you tell I am tired of repeating myself and I am at my wits end. :lol:
Search button for now on for things I have already mentioned unless I am up for it.:biggrin: