Leopard Gecko Banunu: New kid alert!! looking for advice

WhereToBegin

New member
Hello! This is my first time on a leopard gecko forum, or a forum at all actually! Yeah, so I'm sorry if I mess anything up! Also prepare yourself for a block of text sorry!

My name's Portia(pronounced; Por-sha) and I'm 17. I own one leopard gecko, her name is Banunu, and hopefully I'll be getting two more some time soon! I've been researching them obsessively for the past year and a half and have even been considering breeding them(I know about all of the responsibility and such that comes with that task ;P as I said researching OBSESSIVELY haha there's always more to learn though). I also have a meal worm colony starting up!

Now, I'm not going to lie here. And I kind of want to hear other peoples opinions.. I don't really care if I get yelled at, in fact I feel like I deserve it... A lot. Mostly because I jumped into this expecting it to be easier than it is/was and because of that mistreated my gecko...
Banunu is really small. She's a year old, normal morph(or so I've heard?? I've always questioned it a little). She's only 6 inches. When I got her, she was a mess, underweight and smaller than all of her siblings. I had picked her because she was the prettiest, I didn't care about health or anything else really. She had this little face on the back of her head that looked like a pumpkin face with fangs and little ruffles under her neck! I was told she most likely wouldn't live the first 5 weeks-5 months of owning her and that when she died I could bring in her dead body back to petco and get another gecko in exchange. The reason he gave was that they had a 'bad batch' in and that she was showing signs of being sick.
Me being a stubborn kid told the man that I really wanted her, and that I wasn't going to let her die and that I would heal her.

What the man didn't tell me, is that the clutch of geckos wasn't sick(well they were I'll explain that later), but that they weren't healthy. I'm assuming this, but I think that all of those poor little geckos had neurological problems or something similar, so they had a hard time feeding. I'm assuming that because my gecko Banunu does.
If he had told me, I think she would be much healthier today...

I didn't notice it until she was scary close to death.(How did you not notice???? D:<) Well yeah, I ask myself this all of the time. But at the time, I thought she was sick... Stupid reason right? I really wasn't educated at all..

I started out just feeding the geckos(we had two, one was mine one was my sisters) gut loaded crickets. I would dump like 8 crickets in and let the gecko's catch them. I would leave after watching my sisters catch a few and come back and they appeared to be gone. I'm assuming at this point that they hid and Pelican(My sisters gecko) would eat them when she found them so I didn't find any aside from a few dead ones in the water after feeding. Because I know she wasn't eating

I honestly thought Banunu was eating, until one day around the third month of having her, I stuck around long enough to see her do this weird thing that my sisters never did. She dove for the cricket and bit the paper towels, missed by an inch and turned a half circle before giving up! I laughed, and figured it was just a goof, but as I watched more it began to freak me out more, but I figured it was just a weird thing, and I didn't have access to the internet so I went to the petco to ask if she was blind. Which was my very uneducated guess.

They said she was probably just stuffy or having a hard time smelling and that I should soak her in, a little warmer than lukewarm, water for 15 minutes for a few days and see if she got any better.

I did it and the whole act didn't stop. At this point I was trying to learn how to hand feed her and had figured out that pressing the food against her cheek made her open up and take it, however catching the crickets was difficult for me too and she still didn't get that many.

We went back, explained the situation, and someone said that she was probably having neurological problems that wouldn't go away.
I decided to ask if meal worms would suffice for crickets, they were easier to catch for both of us and was told that with calcium dusted on them, they would do fine. So I took them home and did that.

They didn't tell me that they were low fat worms and that it would take more than that. She didn't loose weight luckily, she just didn't gain like she needed to. ):

So that's what I actually fed her up until a month ago, mostly because I also saw a lot of posts saying that everything else was super risky and not worth it, and didn't want to try it. But finally someone flipped out and knocked some sense into me and I purchased wax worms and give her four every other day and will give her two in between if she'll take them. I've had no problems so far, and to be honest am furious with myself for listening to the posts about that... Aside from that she's had no problems aside from a few missing toes from bad sheds... In fact she's slowly gaining weight.

As for Pelican, I'm still not sure what happened to her, my sister stopped caring so I had to take care of both of them and pelican got sick with something that I'm unsure of, and lost weight like crazy even though I was hand feeding her too, and eventually died... I'm guessing it was because the worms I gave her weren't enough.

So that's my story.
I made a mistake with my geckos, it won't be forgotten, and I feel horrible for them up to this day.

I wanted to share this, because everyone keeps saying it's not my fault, and I know it is. Which is part of why I want to be here, because I want help if I encounter anymore sneak attack problems... And I want people who'll understand how bad I should feel because I'm tired of people telling me it's okay, because it's not.
I know I'm responsible for every thing that happened. And I want everyone to know that I understand and feel completely guilty for what has happened to my geckos.

I learned from this experience however. A lot. coughcoughlike pet stores are a bad ideacoughcough. And it's been a full year before I've finally come to the decision of possibly purchasing another gecko, and that'll happen next year most likely. I know I have a lot more to learn still, which is partially why I'm here. I need to get what I can... So I guess I can start off with some questions?...

But first, I guess I'll clarify something, Banunu isn't healthy, and I don't know if she'll ever be big enough to breed. People ask me a lot if I'll breed her when I talk about plans for that stuff, but even if she does get up to that size some how, I will never breed her. So I thought I should also clarify that.. So for quesitons;

So, I guess I should ask if anyone else has some extra advice? Do you know if she'll grow anymore or if she'll probably stay in the 6 inch range now that she's a year? I honestly would just be happy if she made it another inch at least since I've heard of healthy adults reaching that size and stopping..
Also she has a ruffle under her neck still.. what's that about because I've never seen another leo with something like that? She used to have another one on the other side too. I attached a picture of it for you guys to see.↓
 

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cricket4u

New member
Welcome to GU!:)

Please carefully read over this caresheet and feel free to ask any questions you may have. I also wanted to mention that you gecko has such a tight skin fold on her chin that concerns me a bit. Can you take a full body picture and one of her enclosure as well?

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...blepharis-macularius-26-sept-2012-update.html

After you read the proper way to house a gecko, I doubt you will want more a while.:biggrin:
 
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WhereToBegin

New member
Thank you so so much! That was very helpful! I don't have one of her enclosure, I can do that tomorrow if you want to see it. It's too dark right now, and I like to give her as much darkness as I can so she feels more comfortable. :p (she doesn't like my lights on, which makes sense)

I'll attach a picture of her below, and I can give you a quick idea for now of what she's living in!
She's in a 30 gallon long aquarium. I use paper towels, I was going to do sand when I got her, but it's not so much of the tank that I want pretty as much as a healthy and pretty gecko, so I decided paper towels was fine. It's easier for me to clean anyway, especially when I'm having a rushed day. So it's like a win/win.

She has a cool hide which has a little water bowl attached(with a 'rock' slope into the water) and complete shelter, so she can be completely hidden if she wants. I have a warm hide with an UTH(I don't have a thermometer but I'm def looking into those now that I've read a few horror stories... I usually just touch the ground to check if it's too warm or not.)
In the middle of the tank I have her food bowl, a little bottle cap face down filled with calcium, as wells as bottle cap face up next to the food that serves as a little stepping stone for her and her humid hide, which is a deli cup with a hole cut in it and sanded with damp moss in it.

And that skin fold, I've never heard of that happening! ): Do you have any idea's on what I should do for her? Could it be hurting her? D:

I don't have any updated pictures, she's got a little more fat on her tail now, but she's still having a hard time for what ever reason that is...
I'm thinking the wax worms are the best bet for her right now and I have meal worms as an option at all times...

And yeah, I'm going to wait until I get her more situated for sure before getting more!!
 

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cricket4u

New member
Well when you see those types of skin folds, it is an indication of dehydration. It's an old picture so not very helpful. I guess she is doing better now it sounds.:)

I almost forgot to mention, a good thermometer is the most important tool in husbandry and crucial to your geckos' health. Please buy one asap.
 
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WhereToBegin

New member
Oh okay! She still has the skin fold though, is there anyway to make sure she gets the water? :) I have water available 24/7, but I don't know if she drinks any of it. She needs ti drink it right? Or is there another way for her to get her water?

And do you have any recommendations for the thermometer?
 

cricket4u

New member
Waxworms and mealworms is a very high fat diet. Please read over the food information in the caresheet. There are examples of thermometers and thermostats as well. When possible post a picture of how she looks now.
 

WhereToBegin

New member
Alright. I didn't see anything about dehydration, but I looked it up and it says to soak her for a little while and she should lick up some of the water.. So I'm going to start doing that.

Also, I heard that meal worms weren't fattening, which is why I started feeding her the wax worms as well so she could be a healthier weight. It says not to use wax worms because she won't eat anything else but she's still eating her meal worms just fine.

Here's some pictures of her(including that fold, it's still there) and her enclosure(she's hiding behind her warm hide because I put it in backwards oops. :? Going to go fix that haha...)↓
 

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cricket4u

New member
Alright. I didn't see anything about dehydration, but I looked it up and it says to soak her for a little while and she should lick up some of the water.. So I'm going to start doing that.

Also, I heard that meal worms weren't fattening, which is why I started feeding her the wax worms as well so she could be a healthier weight. It says not to use wax worms because she won't eat anything else but she's still eating her meal worms just fine.

Here's some pictures of her(including that fold, it's still there) and her enclosure(she's hiding behind her warm hide because I put it in backwards oops. :? Going to go fix that haha...)↓
Hmm,

She is obviously small if she fits in the hide with the dish over it. She does appear to have a congenital condition, but she does not look bad. I would definitely work on temperatures in the enclosure. If she uses her moist hide there is no need to soak her. What supplements are you providing?
 

WhereToBegin

New member
Congenital condition? Are you talking about the skin flap thing, or how small she is, or is it something else that I may have missed? ):
Yep, 6 inches and as of her last weigh, she's 20 grams..
I dust all of her food in calcium with D3, and leave some out for her, which is about to change, I'm about to go buy her some plain calcium to put in the dish instead.. And she actually loves her moist hide and spends quite a bit of time in it.. She even drinks from the dish sometimes...

Turns out I actually have just enough to buy a thermostat and am going to save up for a thermometer(shouldn't take long), but for now the back of my hand will have to be the judge(unless I can convince my mom to pitch in a little for one...:?). It won't be long though. I'll get one asap for sure!

She's getting a little bigger, but I'm still worried, because it doesn't look like it's much, and I'm sure when I weigh her again it'll probably only be 20g... She's only been on this diet for a month and a half now though so I guess I can't expect too much...
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Congenital condition? Are you talking about the skin flap thing, or how small she is, or is it something else that I may have missed? ):
Yep, 6 inches and as of her last weigh, she's 20 grams..
I dust all of her food in calcium with D3, and leave some out for her, which is about to change, I'm about to go buy her some plain calcium to put in the dish instead.. And she actually loves her moist hide and spends quite a bit of time in it.. She even drinks from the dish sometimes...

Turns out I actually have just enough to buy a thermostat and am going to save up for a thermometer(shouldn't take long), but for now the back of my hand will have to be the judge(unless I can convince my mom to pitch in a little for one...:?). It won't be long though. I'll get one asap for sure!

She's getting a little bigger, but I'm still worried, because it doesn't look like it's much, and I'm sure when I weigh her again it'll probably only be 20g... She's only been on this diet for a month and a half now though so I guess I can't expect too much...


Hi Portia ~

Good to hear that changes are already in the works!

Please remove the calcium with D3 from the tank right now. Dangerous to have a D3 supplement or any multivitamin in the tank...chance of overdose.

Nice that you have a large tank! Let's add a 10 inch overhead dome with bulb to spread out the heat. Air temperatures are important too.

Check out the vitamin section of the care sheet. Reptivite with D3/vitamin A acetate should be lightly dusted on the prey no more than 2x weekly.

Waxworms are an extremely poor food at any time for a leo. Switch to live crickets. Mealworms are only OK for variety, not as a staple. Check out hornworms too.

Can the skin on her neck be smoothed out or is it like a permanent pleat?

A thermometer is as important as food for Banunu. Without the temperatures indicated in the care guidelines, Banuinu will be unable to digest her food. You want a digital thermometer min/max with a probe. Fluker's has one that can be purchased through Amazon.com.
 

cricket4u

New member
Perfect way to distinguish the difference Elizabeth! Can the skin on her neck be smoothed out or is it like a permanent pleat?
 

WhereToBegin

New member
Hello!

I removed it yesterday, and went to the store hoping to buy some just to find out my crappy petco doesn't have any plain calcium. My mom tried to get me to buy some liquid 'calcium' stuff that was supposedly for bearded dragons, but I said no because I didn't trust it because I've never heard of it. :/ Any info on that stuff? It's so weird... I'll be purchasing plain calcium off of the internet though tomorrow so it should be in soon.

I'll do that. It's understandable. I was told when I bought her that it was a horrible idea by multiple people... Which is the only reason I don't have one. :p

And I did see that.

I might have to look into hornworms then?? I've been giving her mealworms and waxworms mostly until now... Mostly, because she can't eat crickets, they just irritate her. She can't catch them, and I can't either.:? and often when I do she'll loose them.

The skin can be smoothed! I just tried it and it's just loose in the area. I never thought to check that actually... But, it is indeed loose. huh..

I have a cheap one for now, I'm trying to get help financially... But my mom, who is the only person I can go to in this situation, doesn't see the importance and refuses to "waste her money on something when we know nothing's wrong yet" I'll keep pushing her but it's looking a little futile...

So I'm going to get the thermostat and work my butt off so I can try to get a Thermometer, but she's not a high payer so I probably won't be able to get a good one until I have the money in a few months.

Literally once I buy the thermostat I'll be broke.:( I am really trying though.
The Fluker thermometer is only 20$ right? Why does it need a probe/what does the probe do?
I'll also be getting that lamp pretty soon too I think.

Thank you very much so far guys! This is so much information, it's very much appreciated!<3
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hello!

I removed it yesterday, and went to the store hoping to buy some just to find out my crappy petco doesn't have any plain calcium. My mom tried to get me to buy some liquid 'calcium' stuff that was supposedly for bearded dragons, but I said no because I didn't trust it because I've never heard of it. :/ Any info on that stuff?

You really want a powdered plain calcium carbonate for the bottlecap in the tank 24/7. Health foods stores carry that more cheaply.

It's so weird... I'll be purchasing plain calcium off of the internet though tomorrow so it should be in soon.

I'll do that. It's understandable. I was told when I bought her that it was a horrible idea by multiple people... Which is the only reason I don't have one. :p

And I did see that.

I might have to look into hornworms then?? I've been giving her mealworms and waxworms mostly until now... Mostly, because she can't eat crickets, they just irritate her. She can't catch them, and I can't either.:? and often when I do she'll loose them.

Discontinue any waxworms. They are way too high in fat. Leos can become addicted to waxies and sometimes refuse to eat anything else.

The skin can be smoothed! I just tried it and it's just loose in the area. I never thought to check that actually... But, it is indeed loose. huh..

:)

I have a cheap one for now, I'm trying to get help financially... But my mom, who is the only person I can go to in this situation, doesn't see the importance and refuses to "waste her money on something when we know nothing's wrong yet" I'll keep pushing her but it's looking a little futile...

So I'm going to get the thermostat and work my butt off so I can try to get a Thermometer, but she's not a high payer so I probably won't be able to get a good one until I have the money in a few months.

Get a decent thermometer first. It is as important for your leo as food. Otherwise you have no reliable way to measure the temps.

Literally once I buy the thermostat I'll be broke.:( I am really trying though.
The Fluker thermometer is only 20$ right? Why does it need a probe/what does the probe do?
I'll also be getting that lamp pretty soon too I think.

I know, so much stuff. If you order the Fluker digital therm/hygrometer through Amazon you can do better than pet store prices, but then there is shipping. That one does not have a probe, but instead of velcroing it to the tank, just velcro keep it loose so that you can move it around the tank.

Thank you very much so far guys! This is so much information, it's very much appreciated!<3

You are very welcome.
 

WhereToBegin

New member
Hey! Sorry I've haven't been on in a while! Been busy with school and life. haha

I got her Repti Calcium without D3(will that work??) and a thermometer and have been looking into Horn Worms and Crickets.

It's been a while since I've given her a cricket, so I'm leaning towards Horn Worms since she is used to wriggly crawler things, rather than jumpy fast things. I'm sure crickets will be easier to obtain as well as pay for, but they overwhelm her so badly, she doesn't usually eat them.
Btw she still eats her other food fine. Haven't had a problem feeding her meal worms on the side and i have been feeding her wax worms every other day.. :)

As for the thermometer, it's a Caliber III digital thermometer/Hydrometer which was as much as the Flukers with shipping, but I got free shipping because I got both that and the Calcium at the same time on Amazon. I bought that one because I read reviews on the flukers thermometer and most of them were negative. So someone recommended the Caliber even though it's for cigars and I checked that one out and it seemed better.
I'm also getting a thermometer gun from my dads work to check the temperatures that show up on the thermometer to make sure it's right! But so far they're a little low(85ºF), but once I get the light and the thermostat she should be good.

Next I hope to get the thermostat and heat lamp.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Hey! Sorry I've haven't been on in a while! Been busy with school and life. haha

I got her Repti Calcium without D3(will that work??) and a thermometer and have been looking into Horn Worms and Crickets.

As long as the Repti-Calcium is a pure calcium carbonate powder, that will work for the tank 24/7. You also need a vitamin powder which contains D3 to dust the prey with 2x per week. D3 helps in the metabolism of calcium.

It's been a while since I've given her a cricket, so I'm leaning towards Horn Worms since she is used to wriggly crawler things, rather than jumpy fast things. I'm sure crickets will be easier to obtain as well as pay for, but they overwhelm her so badly, she doesn't usually eat them.
Btw she still eats her other food fine. Haven't had a problem feeding her meal worms on the side and i have been feeding her wax worms every other day.. :)

Let me know how the hornworms work out.

As for the thermometer, it's a Caliber III digital thermometer/Hydrometer which was as much as the Flukers with shipping, but I got free shipping because I got both that and the Calcium at the same time on Amazon. I bought that one because I read reviews on the flukers thermometer and most of them were negative. So someone recommended the Caliber even though it's for cigars and I checked that one out and it seemed better.
I'm also getting a thermometer gun from my dads work to check the temperatures that show up on the thermometer to make sure it's right! But so far they're a little low(85ºF), but once I get the light and the thermostat she should be good.

Next I hope to get the thermostat and heat lamp.

Always important to verify thermometer readings and dial type settings. Some thermostats have digital settings, some don't.
 
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panthergecko

Active member
I wouldn't feed waxworms more than 2x a month let alone every other day.
Best to just use wax worms as a occasional treat!

If you wish to offer fattier foods, you can go with superworms, or mealworms.
 

WhereToBegin

New member
Yeah, I already have the Calcium with D3. :)

I was actually told by a person that I was supposed to feed her wax worms and meal worms, which is how that came about. Clearly they didn't know what to do either... They said I should give her 3-4 of them every other day because of how skinny she is, so I did it, and now it's what I have until I find somewhere to get horn worms. Which should be fixed real soon.

I hope to get a digital thermostat. :) I've been shopping around for them even I can't yet afford one.. :p
 

Hilde

Administrator
Staff member
That skin flap under her chin is one of the signs of a Vitamin A (and possibly Vit D) shortage in at least the mother, if not both parents.

You mentioned they claimed to have had a 'bad batch' of leopards, and you also suspect she has poor vision. She had a bad shed to the point where she lost some toes. This all adds up to a Vit A/D shortage in her, and in the parents which then affected their offspring. By any chance, did you notice if any of the geckos in that 'bad batch' had nicked/split eyelids?

VITAMIN A:
: Promotes bone growth, teeth development.
: Helps form and maintain healthy skin, hair, mucous membranes.
: Builds body's resistance to respiratory infections.
: Essential for normal function of retina. Combines with purple pigment of retina (opsin) to form rhodopsin, which is necessary for sight in partial darkness.
: Necessary for proper testicular function, ovarian function, embryonic development, regulation of growth, differentiation of tissues.

VITAMIN D:
: Plays a key role in the absorption of calcium for bone and tooth development.
: Affects cardiovascular health, immune system, cancer prevention
: Has a major role in muscle development & strength
: Key role in mental health and depression avoidance

VITAMINS A & D interaction with other substances:
: Calcium decreases absorption of fat-soluble Vitamins A, D, E and K.

You can't see the Vitamin A shortage easily, except for possibly poor vision and/or aim when hunting. Rough skin is usually shrugged off as a 'bit of a bad shed' and hope it works better next time. If not.... well, we'll just remove the stuck skin with a cotton pad.

Lethargy and weakness might be chalked up to many things including boredom or brumation, never a thought that it could hint at a Vitamin D shortage.

Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of Vitamin A and D (we won't worry about E & K here). MBD is often considered to be caused by a shortage of calcium, but can happen even though there is ample calcium available. If there's not enough Vit D available, either stored in the liver absorbed via food/supplements, then there won't be enough calcium absorbed. If you suspect a calcium shortage, it's easy to increase the amount available by dusting more often, even to the point of 'icing' the bugs with calcium, all of which just puts more calcium into the intestines but allowing less and less Vitamin A & D to be absorbed.... a vicious circle. The result is a gecko with possible MBD (even if it's on calcium substrate and gets calcium supplement), and a severe shortage of Vitamin A & D.

And so it continues.... more calcium, less vitamin A & D.

The next big worry is the next generation. The offspring of parents with Vitamin A and/or D imbalance can affect the young - they might hatch tiny, maybe shorter than normal tails, missing or deformed eyelids, a pouch-like flap of skin under the chin (looks like a tiny dewlap), weak, poor vision or even blind, weak or even deformed bones, including skull. It gets shrugged off as one of those things, after all, even in the wild they don't all hatch perfect.

Who would have thought that it could be traced to excess calcium?

Some people shy away from supplementing with pre-formed Vitamin A. It's been proven that geckos need it, they can't convert beta-carotene well enough to make do with just that. If the parents of your gecko were only supplemented with beta-carotene, no pre-formed Vit A, then they were prime candidates for a Vit A deficiency, and their offspring suffered the consequences. At the very least, add some pre-formed Vit A to the supplements a few times a month. Most can be beta-carotene, but the bit of pre-formed A will tide them over until they get enough beta-carotene converted.
 
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