my geckos

bassfisher

New member
Hi I was wondering if anybody else has geckos that dont like being handled much? mine are still pretty small though, like four mounths old.Is that just normal?they don't seem stressed they both eat. one really well and the other alright.
 

Aimless

Super Moderator
what kind of gecko?

some reptiles tolerate handling, many do not, and some very few seem to enjoy interacting with their people. they all have different temperaments.
 

bassfisher

New member
what kind of gecko?

some reptiles tolerate handling, many do not, and some very few seem to enjoy interacting with their people. they all have different temperaments.

there both leos.and heres some pics of them they are getting used to the tank and their both eating well finally and the smallest one has a green dot on it underside but he's not lethargic like before(it think because of the tank temps getting higher.any opinions on the morph?I thought the orange one was a super hypo whatever but it has some spots and the I thought the other was a high yellow?
 

Attachments

  • 106_1679.jpg
    106_1679.jpg
    79.4 KB · Views: 40
  • 106_1683.jpg
    106_1683.jpg
    77.4 KB · Views: 40
  • 106_1684.jpg
    106_1684.jpg
    82.4 KB · Views: 39
  • 106_1678.jpg
    106_1678.jpg
    79.6 KB · Views: 39
Last edited:

bassfisher

New member
Gender: unknown, I think male
Age: juvenille under one year
Weight: don't know
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it? 3 in
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): Petco
Captive bred or wild caught? don't know

Enclosure:

Cage: type, size: clear plastic storage container
Substrate provided? paper towels
What types of hiding places are provided? two warm one cold
Is there a humidity hide? location? i have one and sphagum moss planned on using the moss when it sheds (the other one already shed and the moss was helpful).
Please describe any other furnishings: water dish, meal worm dish.

Lighting:the room has a glass door

Artificial lighting?
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ? 40w UVA blue daylight bulb
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?

Temperature:

Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type? yes, it's zoo-med digital thermometer
What is the temperature in the warm part of the cage? under the warm hide? In the coolest part? warm side (of tank)=86 warm hide=90-92 cool=78-83
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, UTH, heat light, ceramic heater, other: UTH & the added artificial lighting
Are you using a thermostat? no
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?warm hides or under a 9x5 cardboard piece supported y the hids (I use that to provide them shade-from the light).

Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much? yes, 88 in the warm hide, 82 in warm side

Humidity:

Is the humidity measured? Range: no (I live in western WA though)


List other animals that are kept in the same cage: the other gecko; they are very comfortable with each other.
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months) haven't had either for 6 mos.
Are any of your other pets ill? well, I think this gecko might be, that's why I have been on here talking to people...maybe it's just malnourished, IDK. He vomits if I feed him meal or wax worms, but takes crickets (I have to hand feed him-I always wash my hands well).
List recent changes in the environment, if any:

Diet:

Insects, list type?crickets(see above answer)
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with? yes, (from Petco) and if they aren't eaten right away, Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet.
How often do you feed your reptile? when I have food 1-2 times a day...sometimes he has had to go a day or 2 without food.
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?We just got ReptiBoost (2 days ago), and administer with the syringe provided with it.
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both? yes, it's repti calcium (ZooMed), with D3, I dust them with it.
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without? with
Multivitamins? no

Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:

If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs: the first week I had this gecko, he didn't eat. he ate 2 meal worms (but he might have thrown them up, at that time I didn't know he threw up worms, so I didn't check)from then on he only eats crickets, every time I feed him ANY worms, he vomits within a few hours.
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased? it's gradually decreased to SO low, I have seen a small, and now bigger turn around with the reptiboost though, this seems to be helping quite a bit.
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased? During the 2 months that I have had him, his apetite has fluctuated and I'm still trying to figure it all out. But even when he seems hungry and bites he spits out his food-unless I hand feed him (with tweezers, and by hand).
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain severe weight loss
Discharge from the eyes or nose: no
Increased breathing rate or effort : little faster (since he's gotten thin)
Change in the droppings: not really
urates white or yellowish: white
Abnormal skin color or shedding: skin is wrinkley, I thikn because he's so thin...we haven't seen him shed yet.
Parasites on the skin or in the feces: not that I have seen or noticed...I have looked out (for worms), never noticed anything.
Weakness: ? he's stronger since taking the reptiboost (if that's what you mean), he has been weaker, in general as he got very thin.
 

Aimless

Super Moderator
I am not a Leo expert and only know the bare basics for this species, so hopefully someone else will chime in. you might wish to move this to the "Leo" subforum for more responses?

however, it is generally not a good idea to house juvenile geckos together. often one will be a bully, even if you don't see them fighting or see wounds. one will be "picked on" and stressed out, and that could be why one of yours isn't eating as well?

so first, I would separate them, then verify your husbandry against the caresheets on this site.
 

Embrace Calamity

New member
You definitely should separate them. Leopard geckos are not social creatures and do not do well in pairs or groups. In the wild, the area is massive, so they can escape each other. In a little plastic tub, however, they have to spend time with each other.

Furthermore, the fact that you think this one might be a male could be a huge problem. You've got two possibilities:
1) They're both males, in which case, you're probably going to end up with a dead gecko if you don't separate them.
2) The other is a female, and then you're risking them breeding way too young.

Even if they were both females, the fact would still remain that keeping them together is just stressful. Fifty bucks says if you separate them, you'll notice a huge difference. Also, stick to crickets. They're much less fatty than mealies or supers.

Does one tend to lay on top of the other or follow the other one around?

EDIT: Oh, and get a bigger enclosure. Your temp gradient isn't very good. Cool side should be about 75

~Maggot
 
Last edited:

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
there both leos.and heres some pics of them they are getting used to the tank and their both eating well finally and the smallest one has a green dot on it underside but he's not lethargic like before(it think because of the tank temps getting higher.any opinions on the morph?I thought the orange one was a super hypo whatever but it has some spots and the I thought the other was a high yellow?


Thanks for completing the questionnaire! I'm nearly certain much of this info has been shared with you in the past.

****Cage: type, size: clear plastic storage container :(. For a pair a 40 gallon breeder tank is recommended.

****Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without? with.....Please remove the calcium with vitamin D3 from the clear plastic storage container (their home) right away. By putting calcium WITH D3 in the tank you run a huge risk of both leos suffering from vitamin D3 toxicity! Plain calcium carbonate goes in the tank 24/7. NOW brand, Zoo Med, or Rep-Cal

****It is really important to keep the humidity hide on the warm end of the enclosure 24/7. That is important not only for shedding, but also for day-to-day hydration.

****Are any of your other pets ill? well, I think this gecko might be, that's why I have been on here talking to people...maybe it's just malnourished, IDK. He vomits if I feed him meal or wax worms, but takes crickets (I have to hand feed him-I always wash my hands well).

Both vomiting and his green spot are huge red flags! Please don't feed ANY waxworms...very bad news. You could feed mealworm pupas and freshly shed mealworms (less chitin)

****Weight loss, Weight gain severe weight loss Please post a recent picture and take this leo to a vet. From the vet's office you will be able to buy Carnivore Care, a powder similar to Repti+Boost, but much better.

Hummmm-mm-m, still has that green dot on his underside. This is not normal. I realize vets are expensive. Some people would not hesitate to take their sick pet cat or dog to a vet, but when it comes to a lizard the priorities are different.

Few of us on GU are vets. Some people here have more of a scientific/medical background than do others. The safest thing is to find a good reptile vet for this leo and to follow husbandry guidelines which are right at your fingertips. Much of the research has already been done :banana:.
 
Last edited:
Top