ok, just finished what looks to be my final viv set up and am doing a trial run with my temps before getting the leo. After one full day with UTH on a dimmer/rheostat, and alternating day/night overhead bulbs my temps read as follows: warm surface/substrate temp 96F, warm side air ~4 inches up back wall 80- 82, cool side air temp 75. the cool side will most likely decrease a bit at night with cooler ambient temperature in my home but do have red night bulb there for controlling that. So, how do I look? Input? changes?
My temp gradiants, think I have it. Need input
- Thread starter RBJersey
- Start date
Geckologist.tj
New member
This one seemed to slip by us for a while huh?
The only issue I see is that the warm side ground temp needs to be reduced. Ideally, it should never get above 94F and never fall below 88F. Since you're using a rheostat/ dimmer instead of a thermostat, remember to be very dilligent in reading temps frequently. You wouln't want to miss something like the temperature spiking to 99F in the afternoon when the sun is on that side of the house, or falling to 80F at 5:00am when that room is at its coldest. I use a dimmer and other than adjusting it for the season changes it has not been a problem for me, but I take temp readings obsessively with a digital thermometer and an infrared temp gun to make sure all is well.
The only issue I see is that the warm side ground temp needs to be reduced. Ideally, it should never get above 94F and never fall below 88F. Since you're using a rheostat/ dimmer instead of a thermostat, remember to be very dilligent in reading temps frequently. You wouln't want to miss something like the temperature spiking to 99F in the afternoon when the sun is on that side of the house, or falling to 80F at 5:00am when that room is at its coldest. I use a dimmer and other than adjusting it for the season changes it has not been a problem for me, but I take temp readings obsessively with a digital thermometer and an infrared temp gun to make sure all is well.
cricket4u
New member
My fellow members, a thermostat for a UTH is not an option. A dimmer can not control the temperature outside its preset flow of electricity, therefore will not control it while the ambient temps rise. Especially if you have multiple set ups with heat sources running. Unless you can sit there all day and move the leo in and out of his hide and adjust it every time the ambient air temps increase. It is really just impossible. There was a time the thermostats we have now where not available and there was not an option. Now there's no excuse my friends.
Then some will tell others that a picky eater or going off food is normal when in reality it's poor temperature control. Please take this in a constructive manner, I've witnessed it both ways.
I don't make a huge fuss over light bulbs due to the reason that they are not placing their bodies directly on the heat. The air temp if the appropriate wattage is used will not likely overheat to a fatal degree in an open top enclosure because heat rises and a cool side is provided. They are also capable of feeling that heat from above much quicker than when it's coming from below, hence why heat rocks are not safe. Of course a thermostat with the ability to control lighting as well is highly recommended for safety reasons.
Please purchase that important thermostat.
Then some will tell others that a picky eater or going off food is normal when in reality it's poor temperature control. Please take this in a constructive manner, I've witnessed it both ways.
I don't make a huge fuss over light bulbs due to the reason that they are not placing their bodies directly on the heat. The air temp if the appropriate wattage is used will not likely overheat to a fatal degree in an open top enclosure because heat rises and a cool side is provided. They are also capable of feeling that heat from above much quicker than when it's coming from below, hence why heat rocks are not safe. Of course a thermostat with the ability to control lighting as well is highly recommended for safety reasons.
Please purchase that important thermostat.
Geckologist.tj
New member
I appreciate cricket4u's opinions and typically listen to her, but I disagree here.
Good thermostats provide you with better control than dimmers, true. There are instances where a dimmer is inadequate, I agree. However, inside a house with a climate regulated by a thermostat 24/7, I don't see that a thermostat is absolutely required. If the room in which your leo's enclosure is has a 10 degree temperature swing throughout the day, you pretty much have to get a thermostat. However, my thermometers have an alarm which beeps if the temperature exceeds the set-point I have for it. (94F) I have thermometers which display the daily high and low temperatures. Additionally, I measure temps with an infrared temp gun a couple times a day particularly at the hottest and coldest times -my theory being that the temperature could potentially spike before the thermometer could register the higher temperature, this would also be true of a thermostat's thermometer- I have never seen temps below 87F(this is at 4:00am in February mind you) or above 94F (4:00pm in August). The only time my leopard gecko seems slow to eat is if he's had a particularly large meal for the previous meal. Even then he eats, just with less gusto. I would NEVER want to discourage somebody from getting a good thermostat (some thermostats are worse than dimmers), but to suggest that your leopard gecko is in jeopardy if you use a dimmer is a bit too extreme I think.
FYI, my ultimate goal is to get Spyder Robotic's proportional thermostats for all my enclosures.
Good thermostats provide you with better control than dimmers, true. There are instances where a dimmer is inadequate, I agree. However, inside a house with a climate regulated by a thermostat 24/7, I don't see that a thermostat is absolutely required. If the room in which your leo's enclosure is has a 10 degree temperature swing throughout the day, you pretty much have to get a thermostat. However, my thermometers have an alarm which beeps if the temperature exceeds the set-point I have for it. (94F) I have thermometers which display the daily high and low temperatures. Additionally, I measure temps with an infrared temp gun a couple times a day particularly at the hottest and coldest times -my theory being that the temperature could potentially spike before the thermometer could register the higher temperature, this would also be true of a thermostat's thermometer- I have never seen temps below 87F(this is at 4:00am in February mind you) or above 94F (4:00pm in August). The only time my leopard gecko seems slow to eat is if he's had a particularly large meal for the previous meal. Even then he eats, just with less gusto. I would NEVER want to discourage somebody from getting a good thermostat (some thermostats are worse than dimmers), but to suggest that your leopard gecko is in jeopardy if you use a dimmer is a bit too extreme I think.
FYI, my ultimate goal is to get Spyder Robotic's proportional thermostats for all my enclosures.
Last edited:
cricket4u
New member
I'm sorry geckologist jr. but this Spyder Robotic's proportional thermostat may be the solution to these problems.
Post#26
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...pit-bubbles-lets-talk-about-3.html#post407456
Pepe my picky eater post #9
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...97-diet-variety-leopard-gecko.html#post409091
Once you start using the Spyder Robotics proportional thermostat (at least a few months after), please inform us if these problems above vanish.
Last edited:
Geckologist.tj
New member
"I'm sorry geckologist jr. but this Spyder Robotic's proportional thermostat may be the solution to these problems."
It would be almost impossible to tell considering he now eats just about every nutritional feeder available in the U.S.A., and those that are not nutritional I won't offer. It's only the first time that he's offered a new food that he has ever been hessitant. He smells it, eats it, and then it's never a problem again. The one exception being phoenix worms. After getting a steady does of phoenix worms for 6-8 weeks all three of my leopard geckos and my bearded dragon start to reject them. I'm not 100% sure what's up with that, so if it floats your boat to blame that on not having a thermostat feel free. I guess we'll find out when I get my Spyder thermostat/s. Which, by the way, if you've never looked into Spyder Robotics' thermostats, you should check them out. They're pretty sweet.
BTW, it's geckologist.tj not jr. ;-)
It would be almost impossible to tell considering he now eats just about every nutritional feeder available in the U.S.A., and those that are not nutritional I won't offer. It's only the first time that he's offered a new food that he has ever been hessitant. He smells it, eats it, and then it's never a problem again. The one exception being phoenix worms. After getting a steady does of phoenix worms for 6-8 weeks all three of my leopard geckos and my bearded dragon start to reject them. I'm not 100% sure what's up with that, so if it floats your boat to blame that on not having a thermostat feel free. I guess we'll find out when I get my Spyder thermostat/s. Which, by the way, if you've never looked into Spyder Robotics' thermostats, you should check them out. They're pretty sweet.
BTW, it's geckologist.tj not jr. ;-)
Geckologist.tj
New member
"The reptiles, supplies and electronics already take up most of my home as it is."
Ikr. Every once in a while I take a step back and think, "How did one leopard gecko turn into three leos, a bearded dragon, and of all things, a roach colony!?" And I haven't gotten started on the varanids I want!
Ikr. Every once in a while I take a step back and think, "How did one leopard gecko turn into three leos, a bearded dragon, and of all things, a roach colony!?" And I haven't gotten started on the varanids I want!