Mouth rot or some other infection??

[LeopardGeckoBreederFan]

I set up a new terrarium for my juvenile crested gecko with eco earth and a bunch of fake plants. I left her alone for about two weeks and I just took her back out tonight. I immediately noticed that her pitmentation was darker all over her body (went from a tan or sandy color to a light brownish) and she has a black line on her gum. There's one on both sides, but one is much bigger than the other. I haven't changed her diet at all but her terrarium did change, which probably had an increase in humidity (before she was in a smaller critter cage on paper towels as she was very little). I'm feeding her crickets and mealworms and zoo med juvenile crested gecko food dried (she won't touch it wet). Her appetite had not decreased from what I have seen but her activity level outside the cage has. Normally I couldnt keep her still but now shes been sitting in the same place for 10 mins. When she opens her mouth I can see that the line extends almost the length of one side of her gum on the inside, which I can't get a picture of because she won't keep her mouth open and she's really bitey so I'm not going to try to stick my fingers in her mouth. She seems to be licking her lips a lot more than usual. Do you think its an infection and what should I do? I'm attaching pictures of her and of her enclosure.

 

[cricket4u]

Hi,

Take a wet cloth and gently try to wipe if out to see if it's food or substrate. If it's not food that you are seeing, I suggest that you take her to an experienced reptile vet for an exam as soon as possible. You mentioned humidity, but not the temps?


Just asking anyone.... Why do I see many problems with these guys(not just here), yet it seems most people do not even provide heat? Please someone help me understand. You soak a gecko, but do not provide any heat for him/her to warm back up again????

 

[Hilde]

Just asking anyone.... Why do I see many problems with these guys(not just here), yet it seems most people do not even provide heat? Please someone help me understand. You soak a gecko, but do not provide any heat for him/her to warm back up again????

No need to get so emotional about it, it's okay, relax, don't panic.
Maybe we don't add heat because because temperatures in the typical human comfort zone means the geckos are warm enough without it.
Not all gecko species need temperatures around 90°F like leopards.

Try reading the care sheet before judging the quality of care.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...t-correlophus-ciliatus-basics.html#post377372

Heating and lighting

NEVER let temperatures go beyond 83°F with crested geckos. If you can’t provide such temperatures all year long, f.e. if your house will be overheated in summer, better choose another species.

They need 12 hours of lighting and heating all year long. During the night, all lighting and heating aggregates are simply turned off, for example through a timer plug. Night temps can safely reach the low 60s/ 16 to 20°C. Day temps should be between 20 and 27°C (68-81°F) with an optimal range of 22-25°C (72 to 77°F).

 

[Hilde]

I set up a new terrarium for my juvenile crested gecko with eco earth and a bunch of fake plants.

The substrate looks a bit dry in the picture. If so, it might well be the root of the brown lips and colour change. Dry eco-earth can produce a fair amount of dust. If the gecko gets close it it, the dust could end up on the body. Cresties will also lick the substrate, leaving a darker brown line on the lips if it's not licked up completely.

I would suggest seeing if it can be wiped off, like Cricket mentioned. Use a moistened Q-tip and lightly brush against it.

You could also see if any substrate sticks to a moistened Q-tip. Just lightly touch the Q-tip to the top of the substrate. If the eco-earth is too try, it will show up as a light coating of 'dust' while moist substrate will stick in tiny clumps, or just not at all.

 

[cricket4u]

No need to get so emotional about it, it's okay, relax, don't panic.
Maybe we don't add heat because because temperatures in the typical human comfort zone means the geckos are warm enough without it.
Not all gecko species need temperatures around 90°F like leopards.

Try reading care sheet before judging the quality of care.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...t-correlophus-ciliatus-basics.html#post377372

What I was implying by the multiple question mark, was is there something I'm missing. I've asked this before and no one answered,so I was hoping someone would. It was a genuine question.

Not all gecko species need temperatures around 90°F like leopards.

I know. (this may even come off bad) geez.

Try reading care sheet before judging the quality of care.

I would not question, unless I have seen with my own eyes that they will move to temps of 80-82f when provided as part of a gradient. The only way to really know what they need is to offer it. What I have noticed is many just keep them in the low 70's (without an option), this is why I asked. For many years some people do things a certain way; then come to find out years later the care was slightly off. It happens....

 

[Aimless]

I do think many people maintain them at house temperatures, which are often in the 60's in the cooler months and can get even cooler at night. I personally feel this is a little low, although the geckos don't seem to suffer.

if you have a health concern going to the higher end of the range makes sense; I can see that point.

please let us know if you're able to remove the moustache.

 

[cricket4u]

I do think many people maintain them at house temperatures, which are often in the 60's in the cooler months and can get even cooler at night. I personally feel this is a little low, although the geckos don't seem to suffer.

This is what my question marks was about. You say you think? The people that I know keep them, never keep them this cold. The ones with MBD I took in (then, had to put up for adoption) significantly improved while I provided a temp range. They can live a long time being ectotherms in lower than appropriate temperature, however, their life expectancy can be cut in half. What I would have liked to know, if there was anyone that kept them this cool had one live to be at least 12-15 years. I was hoping for feedback.

Leopardgeckobreederfan~sorry, figured questions may help our crestie.

 

[Aimless]

that might be a good topic to start a new thread (this is drifting from the OPs question).

 

[LeopardGeckoBreederFan]

I'm sorry I didn't respond, its been a hectic day. I think she's ok, but I do need to moisten the substrate. It wasn't exactly bone dry but it was getting to be formed in little balls like it does when its getting dry. I wasn't able to get it all off, I think because of how far into her mouth it was. I don't want to open her mouth to clean it, she's scared about being held as it is. I'm trying to keep her calm while out of the cage to get over that fear or aggression. But the main point is that it didn't stick on completely and came offover time. I'll let you know when she gets it all off just for the sake of confirming that she's healthy. (And btw I don't mind that you were getting off topic, every gecko owner should have their questions answered)

 

[LeopardGeckoBreederFan]

What's left of the mustache