She won't even look at food, and it's starting to show.

[Nynecho]

General Information
Species of lizard:Leopard Gecko
Gecko's name: Clementine
Morph: Mack Snow Raptor
Gender: female
Age:1 Year
Weight: 40 Grams
Total length: 8 Inches
Length of your reptile when you first acquired it: 8'
Source: Trusted Breeder
Captive bred or wild caught: Captive Bred

Vivarium
Enclosure dimensions (length x width x heighth): not sure, 15 gallon
Cage (type, size): glass terrarium
Substrate provided: paper towels
Types of hiding places provided: cave, log, coconut, etc.
Is there a humidity hide? location? yes, on the warm side
Please describe any other furnishings: food bowl, water dish, calcium dish.
List recent changes in the environment, if any: recent move to the tank

Lighting
Artificial lighting
Incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s): no bulbs
Fluorescent (tube bulbs): no bulbs
Access to ambient daylight from a distant window: distant window (albino)

Heating
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? Occasionally
What type and brand of thermometer (digital with probe, temperature gun, LCD strip, analog (circle), combo digital thermometer/hygrometer, stainless steel aquarim type, other): it's a zilla thing, it doesn't matter heating isn't the problem.
What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide: 92 at it's highest
What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground:
What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground:
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature (Under Tank Heater, heat light, ceramic heat emitter, Flexwatt heat tape, hot rock, other): under tank heater
Ventilation space for your UTH by elevating the tank above the shelf (some UTHs come with sticky feet for the tank corners): rubber feet
Are you using a thermostat(s): no
Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?: she moves between warm and cool
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?: barely

Humidity
Is the humidity measured?
Humidity range: not sure, it's kinda humid in so cal

Diet
Insects and worms, list type: mealworms, Dubia roaches, super worms
Regular diet fed to the insects and worms: sweet potatoes and regular potatoes
Are the insects and worms formally “gutloaded” 1-2 days prior to feeding off to your gecko? If so with? Repashy big burger
How often do you feed your gecko? I try every day, I have to force feed her.
Please list any supplements (with brand names) used. How are they given and how often?: reptivite, repcal, anything, you name it. Whenever I can get her to eat.
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both? Pure calcium in the tank, not sure on brand
Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without? Without
Multivitamins (include brand name)? Repcal, reptivite, etc
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: recent changes in diet: she stopped eating

General Health
If your gecko is sick, please describe the signs and how long your gecko has been showing these signs: stopped eating 5 weeks ago, beginning to look thin
Is your gecko’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased? Decreased
Is your gecko’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased? Gone, no appetite
Have you noticed any of the following?:
Weight (loss or gain): she lost 20 grams since breeding
Discharge from the eyes or nose:none
Increased breathing rate or effort:no difference
Change in the droppings: mostly white and sticky, some runny.
Urates
---white or yellowish:yellowish
---size of urates as compared to size of feces:completely urate
Abnormal skin color or shedding: she's a but lighter than before and hasn't shed recently
Parasites on the skin or in the feces: none visible
Weakness: she is still somewhat lively, but sleeps a lot and doesn't like to be held

Previous problems and/or illnesses: none

Other Critters in Same Cage or in Household
List other animals that are kept in the same cage: she is now alone, used to be in a group
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months): I'm constantly getting new geckos, and they're all quarantined.

There was a gecko of mine who had to be euthanized, but she never came into contact with this one, and I got rid of and cleaned anything she touched. Especially water and food dishes. Tank hasn't been used again.

 

[Completeleopard]

Hello,

Firstly, the most important thing, we can deal with the other husbandry stuff later. I have some vital questions !

1. Is your thermometer digital? Does it have a probe?

2. Do not like the sound of that poop, runny and also yellow urate , remove the Calcium from the tank immediately, I'd recommend taking her to the vet for a internal check and take a feces sample with you so they can check for parasites.

Could you provide a picture of the Gecko's enclosure? Thank you.

 

[Completeleopard]

-Fecal Sample Collection Procedure
Just phoned my exotics vet for his recommendation:

1. Place a piece of clean plastic where your leo usually poops. If your gecko poops somewhere else, take the poop to the vet anyway. Some poop is better than no poop! (Thanks to TheOneBlueGecko - 25 July 2011)

2. As soon as your gecko has passed some poop and urates, but without physically touching the sample, place the feces and urates directly onto a clean plastic bottle cap. (Vet has fecal sample containers if you can stop by first.)

3. Then place the bottle cap with fecal sample directly into a plastic ziploc bag. (Do NOT use paper towels or newspaper because those will absorb some of the feces necessary for a proper culture.)

4. Refrigerate this sample...unless you are taking the sample to your vet immediately. Do NOT freeze it.

5. Take this fecal sample to your vet within 24 hours of collecting...the sooner the better!


[There are two types of fecals: direct smear and fecal float tests. For geckos, ask the vet whether both tests should be run.]

 

[dragonlady]

If I remember right my vet said crypto can't pass the egg barrier. But I would call and ask the vet. Does your female vomit, and have runny stole? If not it is most likely not crypto. I have had a couple females get thin just from the strain of laying. How much did the gecko weigh before you bred her? I would suggest supplementing with a couple wax or super worms every feed, I like to offer my gravid girls food daily. This may help her regain weight, if not another vet visit is in order. I had one girl drop like a stone once the vet and me opted to spay her to save her from malnutrition. Not saying you have to do this but I find it nice to know there are good options out there.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Nynecho ~

Please post a picture. If your leo Clem needs assist feeding, please consider ordering Oxbow's Carnivore Care from Amazon. It is a complete powdered all-in-one food to which you add only water.

Urates
---white or yellowish:yellowish

Yellowish urates are NOT a good sign. It could be that Clem is getting too many vitamins. Please share your exact dusting schedule. Sweet potatoes...regular potatoes as cricket food....Hummmm. Sweet potatoes are quite high in vitamin A.

#66---Leo Not Eating? Troubleshoot these causes......cricket4u (July & Nov 2013)
"Leos are very greedy and normally eat right away if everything is set up properly. However, I know there are exceptions. Try switching the hides. (The Exo-Terra hide is more secure and may be the reason. If he's not utilizing the heat, chances are he may not eat.) If that does not work, lower the temp as Elizabeth suggested. You may want to cover the sides of the glass so that he will feel more secure."

"Improper temps---air temps too hot or too cold
Improper humidity---too dry is most common
Stress---too much handling---lack of hides or not enough---cagemate bullying, cage too small, et cetera......
Repetitious Diet---variety is important
Spoiled food---upset stomach or simply a bad experience (common with superworms)
Food offered at the wrong time of day---lights on
Wrong size prey---too big or too small
Improper photoperiod
Prey not recognized---leo needs moving prey to elicit feeding response
Malfunctioning heating equipment---goes unnoticed---should be checked daily
UTH is too warm---unregulated---gecko avoids the warm spot, therefore will not eat (need thermostat)
Most common of all CHEAP thermometers => false temp readings
Too much calcium causing constipation and/or loss of appetite

Parasites
Infection
Metabolic---calcium or vitamin deficiency
Impaction
Dehydration
Pain from an injury or otherwise"

 

[Nynecho]

Her problem is obviously NOT a common husbandry issue, and my views of vitamin intake and what not are very different than those generally accepted in this particular forum. Keep that in mind here, my mind will not be changed as far as routine care goes.

All the problems you have noted as being possible causes are completely unrelated and are not the cause. She self regulates her body temp fine by switching between her three hides, and she uses her water bowl and moist hide regularly. The temps are not at all a problem. I have tried variety of different environments for her, and she is doing best in a 15 gallon glass tank with a uth and 3 hides (exo terra over warm spot, coconut moist hide, and realistic log hide) I DO keep a bottle cap of pure calcium powder in her enclosure because she is one of my breeder females, and I have had it happen way too many times where the eggs were not fully developed and the babies didn't make it to hatching, in fact her first offspring just perished because it didn't have enough nutrients when coming out of the egg. I have heard absolutely no instance in which a gecko overdosed on calcium, so I will continue to provide this to my laying females.

I dust the food with some vitamins and calcium that I can't seem to remember at the moment, reptivite and repcal maybe, but I use vitamins every other feeding, calcium every feeding, and I feed her almost every day. I offer her food 24/7, mealworms and dubia roaches, which are gut loaded with russet and sweet potatoes. If she shows no interest I force feed her 3-10 large mealworms.

I have been away for the weekend and am going to be going home tomorrow, but my grandma said she has pooped multiple times since I left (not runny), and that means she has likely been eating on her own.

If she doesn't improve, I will give her the Carnivore Care Diet, as well as some other appetite supplements, but until then, I will be taking her back to the vet for another fecal (not an enema this time, I'll just take them some poop to spare her the stressful procedure.) This vet visit is because of the passing of her daughter. I am just growing more concerned that the vet may have missed a crypto infection and I have to be absolutely sure before deciding what to do permanently with her.

All I can do now is hope she's started eating on her own and that perhaps all she needed was a little time.

I will post again when I have more test results for ya'll or if anything new comes up.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

If she doesn't improve, I will give her the Carnivore Care Diet, as well as some other appetite supplements, but until then, I will be taking her back to the vet for another fecal (not an enema this time, I'll just take them some poop to spare her the stressful procedure.) This vet visit is because of the passing of her daughter. I am just growing more concerned that the vet may have missed a crypto infection and I have to be absolutely sure before deciding what to do permanently with her.

How have the recent urates been?

Sweet potatoes are extremely high in vitamin A.....and might be the cause of the yellow urates. My exotics vet recommends only a very tiny pinch of Reptivite once a week, because of the excess potential.

Something is amiss if she will not eat. That's why I posted a check list of sorts so you could cover all bases.

We were all nOObs once.