Hi, I've seen a lot of set ups that use slate tile on the bottom of their tanks and I was wondering if the UTH are hot enough to go through the glass of the tank + the slate tile. Do the tiles even get any warmth? Also, Would it be too much if I used a ceramic bulb AND an under tank heater (the sticky pad kind) during the day, and then at night turning the ceramic off??? I feel like he won't get enough heat if I dont use the heat emitter on top of the tank, let alone any fluctuation of heat during the day and night (ie. the heat of the tank will be the same during the day as during the night if I ONLY use the UT heating pad). I am just totally lost on both problems. Thanks!
Slate Tile as substrate and Heat sources
- Thread starter MaxGuy
- Start date
JIMI
New member
Yes, the slate tiles should become warm if they are not too thick, the UTH is working properly, and is of the right size (1/3 of the floor space). Tiles are a great substrate.
Using a ceramic bulb with the UTH would not be too much. A lot of people don't realize that ambient temps are just as important floor temps. Doing this also creates a warm zone rather than warm spots, which is what you want. On the warm side, the temperature of the air should not exceed 85F. 83-85 is a good range. You can turn off the bulb at night.
One good method is to combine a ceramic heat emitter, which emits no light just heat, with the UTH and putting both on thermostats. You may be able to use a dimmer for the CHE, but the thermostat will ensure that the CHE does not exceed 85F. You can use a regular low wattage incandescent to establish a photoperiod.
Another way is to use a basking bulb of some sort, but make sure that the heat output is controlled. This method can be inconvenient if you have it plugged into a thermostat because the light will constantly be turning off throughout the day. I prefer the first method!
Just make sure that both heat sources are controlled!
Hope this helps
Using a ceramic bulb with the UTH would not be too much. A lot of people don't realize that ambient temps are just as important floor temps. Doing this also creates a warm zone rather than warm spots, which is what you want. On the warm side, the temperature of the air should not exceed 85F. 83-85 is a good range. You can turn off the bulb at night.
One good method is to combine a ceramic heat emitter, which emits no light just heat, with the UTH and putting both on thermostats. You may be able to use a dimmer for the CHE, but the thermostat will ensure that the CHE does not exceed 85F. You can use a regular low wattage incandescent to establish a photoperiod.
Another way is to use a basking bulb of some sort, but make sure that the heat output is controlled. This method can be inconvenient if you have it plugged into a thermostat because the light will constantly be turning off throughout the day. I prefer the first method!
Just make sure that both heat sources are controlled!
Hope this helps
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Yes, the slate tiles should become warm if they are not too thick, the UTH is working properly, and is of the right size (1/3 of the floor space). Tiles are a great substrate.
Using a ceramic bulb with the UTH would not be too much. A lot of people don't realize that ambient temps are just as important floor temps. Doing this also creates a warm zone rather than warm spots, which is what you want. On the warm side, the temperature of the air should not exceed 85F. 83-85 is a good range. You can turn off the bulb at night.
One good method is to combine a ceramic heat emitter, which emits no light just heat, with the UTH and putting both on thermostats. You may be able to use a dimmer for the CHE, but the thermostat will ensure that the CHE does not exceed 85F. You can use a regular low wattage incandescent to establish a photoperiod.
Another way is to use a basking bulb of some sort, but make sure that the heat output is controlled. This method can be inconvenient if you have it plugged into a thermostat because the light will constantly be turning off throughout the day. I prefer the first method!
Just make sure that both heat sources are controlled!
Hope this helps
Thanks so much! IK that I should put the UTH thermostat in the hot hide (right above the UTH), but where should I put another one to accurately read the temp for the CHE?
JIMI
New member
It can be dangling in the air on the warm side, underneath the CHE. I would say that you can have it dangling about 4-6 inches above the floor. It would be good to tape digital thermometers with probes to the thermostat probes. Here's a very good one: Digital Panel Thermometer/Hygro - Thermometers - The Bean Farm. It even has a built in hygrometer! A different thermometer can be attached to to the UTH thermostat probe. Keeping a healthy humidity level of about 40-50% in the enclosure will help prevent dehydration a shedding issues in the long run. The leo may also spend less time in the moist hide.
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That sounds good. When I got the slate tile for my Beardie the only size was really thick (at my local hardware shop). I think ceramic would work best. Do I have to "glue" it to the bottom? I don't want it to be that permanent. I'm not planning on using crickets (mealworms, wax worms and repti worms mostly), so I don't think small cracks are going to be a problem. What do you think?
JIMI
New member
I also use ceramic tile. No, they do not have to be glued. This way you could just remove them for disinfecting. It'd be a bit of a hassle gluing them to the enclosure. I don't have any problems with crickets getting between cracks in the tile. Consider feeding crickets as well. Perhaps even roaches. They are a very healthy feeder that the leo will love to hunt. My leo is a bit violent when hunting crickets lol. He really enjoys them. Wax worms do not have any nutritional value to them, they're just pure fat. I'm not completely against them (I'd be pissed if I didn't get my chocolate cake;-)), but I don't purchase them because it's a waste to buy a cup if I'm only going to be feeding 1 or 2 a month. Consider hornworms instead. Your beardie will also love them!
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lol. I loved watching my beardie hunt them, but I am way too paranoid to keep them around. I don't want them to jump out and like infest my house. Also, I dont want any crickets to hide in the cage and then feast on my leo at night... Maybe pinheads because they cant jump too high (and dont make too much noise)... Did you have to cut your ceramic tiles to fit your tank? If so, what did you use to cut the tiles because I will most likely need to pick one up when I'm at the hardware store...
JIMI
New member
Blaptica dubia are a tropical species; they will not be able to infest your home unless you live in a very warm and humid climate. But I understand, my parents have an irrational fear of roaches so I've been forbidden from bringing them home. They cry "infestation" no matter how many times I explain that they will not survive in a desert!
If you keep the enclosure simple, you can simply remove any uneaten crickets. Only adult crickets, with wings I believe, make noise. Pinheads may be a bit too small for an older leo. They need to large enough to attract the leo. My leo will not eat any crickets that are too small. Mealworms are not a very great staple feeder. They're high in fat and and even gutloading them does little for their nutritional value. Nutrition is an important aspect of their health just as it is a part of ours. A poor diet will eventually effect them in the future. Variety is key!
Yes I did, I had them cut by a friend of my dad's. Check your local home improvement stores to see if they will cut them for you.
Omg I was talking about the crickets! Don't even get me started on the dubias. Back when I had my bearded dragon I very nicely went up to my mom and said "Hey mom, I'm trying to save a lot of money and I was wondering if I could get a dubia colony" I think that just the idea of me having a colony of anything made her freak out, because before she even knew what a dubia was, she was like nonononononononononono. Then, after she calmed down, she asked what they were and I told her it was a type of roach and she looked like she was about to have a heart attack just by thinking about it (I was going to keep it in our garage, too, not like inside or anything). So I would very much like to have a dubia colony, but it will never happen until I move out (I'm still in high school).
But I could maybe feed it a few crickets every now and then. Another reason why I am paranoid about them is because when I had my beardie I bought some online and the came infested with these little maggot-like worms. And I mean infested, like there where like a dozen of the small worms when I got them so I just left the box outside and the next day there were like 100's of them. Then the very next day I went to check it out and every single cricket in the container was dead. And I bought 1000 of them (I didn't feed any of them to my beardie, btw, for fear of parasites). That experience haunts my memories to this day... I will also never buy any insects from Fluker's in the future because of this...
Sorry to go on a tirade, but maybe this time around I'll try another place like LLLReptile. I also am getting a taller tank for my leopard gecko than my beardie's was, so I hope that will keep the crix from climbing on the top screen
But I could maybe feed it a few crickets every now and then. Another reason why I am paranoid about them is because when I had my beardie I bought some online and the came infested with these little maggot-like worms. And I mean infested, like there where like a dozen of the small worms when I got them so I just left the box outside and the next day there were like 100's of them. Then the very next day I went to check it out and every single cricket in the container was dead. And I bought 1000 of them (I didn't feed any of them to my beardie, btw, for fear of parasites). That experience haunts my memories to this day... I will also never buy any insects from Fluker's in the future because of this...
Sorry to go on a tirade, but maybe this time around I'll try another place like LLLReptile. I also am getting a taller tank for my leopard gecko than my beardie's was, so I hope that will keep the crix from climbing on the top screen