Buying First Leopard Gecko But I Need To Buy A cheap One

Nightfang

New member
Ok, so I'm buying my first gecko and all I have to buy it with is cash and visa gift cards ^.^' so I need it to be pretty cheap I'm hoping to get a mack snow or lavender stripe but I know I probably won't get one of those.
So can anyone tell me where I can get a cheap gecko in Virginia Beach, VA my max price is $35
 

hmarie186

New member
If money is an issue, I would first ask myself can I afford 15+ years of care? Sometimes you can find whole setups with the gecko for $50 or so on craigslist. Just keep in mind you may have to replace sand with proper substrate and still get an appropriate heat source, thermometer, etc but if it's already in a 20 gal long and includes some hides you'll be that much more ahead. If you already have everything try and find a reptile show in your area. I've seen mack snows for $20.
 

Yuk

New member
I agree with that. My $14 gecko from Petsmart has cost me around $400 or $500 in supplies, reference material, food, and medical preventative related costs
 

Nightfang

New member
If money is an issue, I would first ask myself can I afford 15+ years of care? Sometimes you can find whole setups with the gecko for $50 or so on craigslist. Just keep in mind you may have to replace sand with proper substrate and still get an appropriate heat source, thermometer, etc but if it's already in a 20 gal long and includes some hides you'll be that much more ahead. If you already have everything try and find a reptile show in your area. I've seen mack snows for $20.
Yeah I'm actually very young and I have at about one hundred dollars for supplies I just wanted a cheap gecko and also my dad is gonna help me out if I run out of money for food later on and I think I will buy one from pet smart I saw a baby that looked nice and healthy plus it had a beautiful pattern but thank you I might look at a reptile show :biggrin:
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Ok, so I'm buying my first gecko and all I have to buy it with is cash and visa gift cards ^.^' so I need it to be pretty cheap I'm hoping to get a mack snow or lavender stripe but I know I probably won't get one of those.
So can anyone tell me where I can get a cheap gecko in Virginia Beach, VA my max price is $35

Yeah I'm actually very young and I have at about one hundred dollars for supplies I just wanted a cheap gecko and also my dad is gonna help me out if I run out of money for food later on and I think I will buy one from pet smart I saw a baby that looked nice and healthy plus it had a beautiful pattern but thank you I might look at a reptile show :biggrin:

Hi Nightfang ~

A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited! Hope that we can get you off on the right track.

For your first leo it is a very good idea to buy a well started leo 5-6 months old or older.

1) Don't fall for getting a "complete" 10 gallon set up. Many of the things included will be unsatisfactory for your leo.

2) Get an enclosure 30 inches x 12 x 12 even for one leo. That might possibly save you from upgrading in the future, unless you get a giant leo.

3) Are there any reptile shows near you? Repticon?

4) Leos' patterns change as they grow.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Consider all these things:

1. ===> URGENT: No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium EVER <===

2. Best to buy stuff individually rather than getting a 10 gallon set up kit.

3. Quarantine Recommendations
Any new gecko should be quarantined for a minimum of 90 days prior to introducing her/him to the other geckos in the same cage. That gives adequate time to check for parasites, cryptosporidia, and the beginnings of coccidia plus. 3-6 months of quarantine are recommended if your new gecko is imported or wild caught.

The quarantine area should be in a separate room apart from your established geckos. Stringent sanitation methods MUST be followed!

4. Never keep 2 males together.

5. Best to keep leos alone. Even 2 females can fight. Leopard geckos do not need companions/"friends".

6. Advise NO particulate substrates (sand, calci-sand, cocopeat fiber, bark chips, ground walnut shell, aquarium gravel, et cetera). Risk of impaction simply not worth it. Best: textured ceramic, porcelain, or slate tiles. Paper towels also work. Add paper towel layers to poop spot to facilitate clean up.

7. A temperature gradient from warm to cool is very necessary for maintaining leo health. That is difficult to do within a 10 gallon enclosure. That's why many of us recommend a 30 inch long x 12 inch wide (deep) x 12 inch tall enclosure minimum. That's 76 cm x 31 cm x 31 cm.

8. Use an under tank heat mat (UTH) that is 1/3 the length of the tank and as close to the width as possible. If you have a 20 gallon LONG: 30 x 12 x 12, you will need to size up to the UTH recommended for 30-40 gallon enclosures.

9. Use a digital thermometer's probe to measure air temps and ground temperatures. Temperature guns are excellent for measuring surface temperatures. A stainless steel aquarium-type thermometer that has been verified can also be used.

10. Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night unless the ambient room temperatures are particularly cool during the night.

11. The UTH + the overhead heating both belong on the warm end of the tank. Your leo will be more active if you provide an UTH for belly heat/digestion as well as an overhead dome. Your leo will benefit from a "warm zone", not just a "warm spot".

12. To better meet the crepuscular needs of leopard geckos, place a low wattage bulb (15 watt standard incandescent bulb) dimmed to half power inside a 5.5 inch diameter fixture in the center of the screen top and right next to the Ceramic Heat Emitting bulb.

Vary the on-time monthly of both the CHE and the photoperiod bulb according to this Pakistan link. For example, 11 hours ON in February is good.

Click: Sunrise Sunset Daylight Hours of Pakistan -- Timebie

13. UVB lighting is recommended for leopard geckos ONLY IF there is adequate space and opportunities for the leopard gecko to dodge some of the rays like in a 4.5 foot x 2 foot x 2 foot vivarium. A 48 inch long vivarium is a suggested minimum for using UVB for leopard geckos. Never use UVB lighting in addition to a powdered vitamin D3 supplement!

14. Need a thermostat! A thermostat will control your under tank heater, provide your leopard gecko with stable and comfortable temperatures, save $ on electricity, and lessen the chance of a house fire from accidental overheating.

15. 3 hides required per leo: warm DRY, warm MOIST, cool DRY. Keeping one hide warm and moist 24/7 is very important! Both warm hides should sit on top of the UTH. The warmth from your UTH will help generate the required humidity. Leopard geckos use their warm moist hides for hydrating even when not shedding.

16. Too much vitamin D3 is as bad as too little vitamin D3. Any multivitamin (Rep-Cal's Herptivite, Exo Terra's multivitamin) which supplies vitamin A in the form of beta carotene is not recommended because research on chameleons has shown that it is not absorbed. A very, very small amount of preformed vitamin A acetate is necessary for eye and skin health. For a detailed explanation please note mod Hilde's posts #22 and #48 immediately following the Basic Guidelines of my Leopard Gecko Care Sheet.

Lightly dust crickets/dubia with Zoo Med's supplements like this:
1. Monday - Repti-Calcium with D3 according to gecko weight on container label
2. Thursday - Repti-Calcium with D3 according to gecko weight on container label
3. PLAIN (no D3) Reptivite (multivitamin) with A acetate adjusted for your leo's weight: Spread out the lightly dusted Reptivite crickets over the course of a week. Use the Reptivite (multivitamin) very sparingly.

17. Urates should be white, not yellow, and be approximately 1/3 the size of the feces. A healthy feces is dark brown and about the size and shape of 2 tic tacs.

18. Vary the diet: crickets, roaches, grasshoppers, silkworms, hornworms, mealworm pupae, freshly molted mealworms, genuine Phoenix worms, calciworms, and locusts (smallest locusts possible)

19. There are no benefits to feeding waxworms, butterworms, or superworms (pure fat like ice cream). Hornworms and/or silkworms provide excellent variety. They provide nutrition as well as moisture.

20. Click: Care & Breeding of Feeders: crickets, Blaptica dubia, hornworms, & silkworms

21. Click: USDA Foods link Foods List

22. Diet, DIET, D-I-E-T! A huge factor in the husbandry of any gecko is to feed the feeders (crickets, worms, etc) a very healthy diet 24/7. Variety of feeders is important too. Nutritious feeder bodies transfer like nutrients to your geckos. Consider light supplemental dusting of these feeders as just "icing on the cake".

Remember that, like humans, geckos are what they eat.

23. Consider covering three sides of your leopard gecko's enclosure with something like construction paper to provide additional security and privacy.

24. For live links to the products Tony uses go to post #26. Post #36 is a setup checklist.

25. For the whole story click: Leopard Gecko Caresheet (Eublepharis macularius)...demo video & 4 Jan 2013 update
 

Nightfang

New member
Consider all these things:

1. ===> URGENT: No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium EVER <===

2. Best to buy stuff individually rather than getting a 10 gallon set up kit.

3. Quarantine Recommendations
Any new gecko should be quarantined for a minimum of 90 days prior to introducing her/him to the other geckos in the same cage. That gives adequate time to check for parasites, cryptosporidia, and the beginnings of coccidia plus. 3-6 months of quarantine are recommended if your new gecko is imported or wild caught.

The quarantine area should be in a separate room apart from your established geckos. Stringent sanitation methods MUST be followed!

4. Never keep 2 males together.

5. Best to keep leos alone. Even 2 females can fight. Leopard geckos do not need companions/"friends".

6. Advise NO particulate substrates (sand, calci-sand, cocopeat fiber, bark chips, ground walnut shell, aquarium gravel, et cetera). Risk of impaction simply not worth it. Best: textured ceramic, porcelain, or slate tiles. Paper towels also work. Add paper towel layers to poop spot to facilitate clean up.

7. A temperature gradient from warm to cool is very necessary for maintaining leo health. That is difficult to do within a 10 gallon enclosure. That's why many of us recommend a 30 inch long x 12 inch wide (deep) x 12 inch tall enclosure minimum. That's 76 cm x 31 cm x 31 cm.

8. Use an under tank heat mat (UTH) that is 1/3 the length of the tank and as close to the width as possible. If you have a 20 gallon LONG: 30 x 12 x 12, you will need to size up to the UTH recommended for 30-40 gallon enclosures.

9. Use a digital thermometer's probe to measure air temps and ground temperatures. Temperature guns are excellent for measuring surface temperatures. A stainless steel aquarium-type thermometer that has been verified can also be used.

10. Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night unless the ambient room temperatures are particularly cool during the night.

11. The UTH + the overhead heating both belong on the warm end of the tank. Your leo will be more active if you provide an UTH for belly heat/digestion as well as an overhead dome. Your leo will benefit from a "warm zone", not just a "warm spot".

12. To better meet the crepuscular needs of leopard geckos, place a low wattage bulb (15 watt standard incandescent bulb) dimmed to half power inside a 5.5 inch diameter fixture in the center of the screen top and right next to the Ceramic Heat Emitting bulb.

Vary the on-time monthly of both the CHE and the photoperiod bulb according to this Pakistan link. For example, 11 hours ON in February is good.

Click: Sunrise Sunset Daylight Hours of Pakistan -- Timebie

13. UVB lighting is recommended for leopard geckos ONLY IF there is adequate space and opportunities for the leopard gecko to dodge some of the rays like in a 4.5 foot x 2 foot x 2 foot vivarium. A 48 inch long vivarium is a suggested minimum for using UVB for leopard geckos. Never use UVB lighting in addition to a powdered vitamin D3 supplement!

14. Need a thermostat! A thermostat will control your under tank heater, provide your leopard gecko with stable and comfortable temperatures, save $ on electricity, and lessen the chance of a house fire from accidental overheating.

15. 3 hides required per leo: warm DRY, warm MOIST, cool DRY. Keeping one hide warm and moist 24/7 is very important! Both warm hides should sit on top of the UTH. The warmth from your UTH will help generate the required humidity. Leopard geckos use their warm moist hides for hydrating even when not shedding.

16. Too much vitamin D3 is as bad as too little vitamin D3. Any multivitamin (Rep-Cal's Herptivite, Exo Terra's multivitamin) which supplies vitamin A in the form of beta carotene is not recommended because research on chameleons has shown that it is not absorbed. A very, very small amount of preformed vitamin A acetate is necessary for eye and skin health. For a detailed explanation please note mod Hilde's posts #22 and #48 immediately following the Basic Guidelines of my Leopard Gecko Care Sheet.

Lightly dust crickets/dubia with Zoo Med's supplements like this:
1. Monday - Repti-Calcium with D3 according to gecko weight on container label
2. Thursday - Repti-Calcium with D3 according to gecko weight on container label
3. PLAIN (no D3) Reptivite (multivitamin) with A acetate adjusted for your leo's weight: Spread out the lightly dusted Reptivite crickets over the course of a week. Use the Reptivite (multivitamin) very sparingly.

17. Urates should be white, not yellow, and be approximately 1/3 the size of the feces. A healthy feces is dark brown and about the size and shape of 2 tic tacs.

18. Vary the diet: crickets, roaches, grasshoppers, silkworms, hornworms, mealworm pupae, freshly molted mealworms, genuine Phoenix worms, calciworms, and locusts (smallest locusts possible)

19. There are no benefits to feeding waxworms, butterworms, or superworms (pure fat like ice cream). Hornworms and/or silkworms provide excellent variety. They provide nutrition as well as moisture.

20. Click: Care & Breeding of Feeders: crickets, Blaptica dubia, hornworms, & silkworms

21. Click: USDA Foods link Foods List

22. Diet, DIET, D-I-E-T! A huge factor in the husbandry of any gecko is to feed the feeders (crickets, worms, etc) a very healthy diet 24/7. Variety of feeders is important too. Nutritious feeder bodies transfer like nutrients to your geckos. Consider light supplemental dusting of these feeders as just "icing on the cake".

Remember that, like humans, geckos are what they eat.

23. Consider covering three sides of your leopard gecko's enclosure with something like construction paper to provide additional security and privacy.

24. For live links to the products Tony uses go to post #26. Post #36 is a setup checklist.

25. For the whole story click: Leopard Gecko Caresheet (Eublepharis macularius)...demo video & 4 Jan 2013 update

Thank you one thing I would never ever think of getting one of the kits they are a waste of money in my eyes and also I am going to mix some sand into non toxic paint and sprinkle some on top (I am making a two story habitat) is that ok?
I will try and do most of those things but some I will be unable to do but most I will do
 

JIMI

New member
Thank you one thing I would never ever think of getting one of the kits they are a waste of money in my eyes and also I am going to mix some sand into non toxic paint and sprinkle some on top (I am making a two story habitat) is that ok?
I will try and do most of those things but some I will be unable to do but most I will do

Be careful, skipping out on things often backfires! Spending about $60-$80 on the proper equipment is a lot cheaper than spending $100--$300+ on vet bills. Keeping a reptile is very expensive, even when keeping a reptile that's claimed to be low maintenance. I only have one leo and I've already spent around $400. Maybe you should consider saving a little longer if you can't afford everything it needs yet. Rushing into it when you're not prepared never ends well, especially for the animal.:sad: Just some things to think about!
 

Yuk

New member
It depends on what you skip. Moist hide, warm dry hide, ideal substrate, calcium, D3 and 10g+ are all musts in my opinion.

EDIT: And UTH, thanks JIMI, forgot that one
 
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JIMI

New member
Don't forget the UTH, thermostat, reliable thermometers, water bowl, and supplements. There's also the feeders, their bins, and their diet because providing a well balanced diet is very important. These things, depending on quality, can easily cost $80+. You also need to have some money on the side for emergencies. It's wise to have their stool checked for parasites at least twice a year so that you can catch flourishing parasites before they bloom out of control, causing serious complications in the future.
 

MistyBleil

New member
Check to see if you have a PETCO in your area. Petco is currently running their Dollar a Gallon sale. A 29 gallon tank, which has the same foot print as a 20 gallon long recommended above, would cost around $30. The 29 gallon is 6+ inches taller, but if you plan to do a custom backdrop/insert you will likely want the height. Also, on July 19 and 20 Petco is having a Reptile weekend with several great sales on tank stuff.
 

hmarie186

New member
Yep! We bought our 20 gal long at the last Petco sale. The lid was another 20 but we still saved a good amount of money.
 

PowayRock

New member
If money is an issue I would definatley use tile as a substrate. Never have to spend money a second time. It easy to clean. Looks beautiful. And actually inexspensive. You will absolutly need to get a thermostat for the UTH.
 

MistyBleil

New member
I agree about the tile. But it will need to be trimmed slightly, as the tank and the tile are both 12 inches. Most home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot will cut them for you, if your dad doesn't have the tools needed. At my Home Depot, I could get a 12 inch by 12 inch tile for $1.50 each and the 6X6 inch were less than a dollar each. Lots of colors to choose from too.
 

Completeleopard

New member
As others have said, be careful regarding the money side of things! Just make sure your Dad knows about things such as parasites, food, gut loading, how you can get unexpected vet bills, so if he says he's willing to help you out with your Leo he knows why he might have to help you!
 

Nightfang

New member
I was going to have a tile for the "waste" area only I have alot of tile from when my mom was redoing the bathroom so I'm good with that part and I have talked to my dad a bit on medical care
 

Yuk

New member
My husband was hard to convince with medical care until I explained how much it would cost if they actually really got sick. Same with their enclosure requirements. Once he realized the risks and costs, he was 100% on board. He is a practical dude.
 
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