HELP with Lygodactylus Williamsi babies


New member
Thank you for your concern. I can assure you that all my hatchlings from both species are thriving. Currently, they range in ages of 2 weeks to 2 months. Maybe you could post pics of your hatchling Williamsi setups and your feeding regimens. Useful info from other breeders is always greatly appreciated. I would also love to see who wrote the info on 95f basking areas for hatchling Williamsi. Please post a link if you can.

Because 2 months is such a short time to assume they are thriving, I searched for a caresheet and found one which I know off hand is very similar to how he keeps them. I would just hate for your little guys to suddenly fall ill. Please keep in mind that no caresheet is perfect. I hope you don't mind me pasting a few sentences which I really think are important to consider even as babies. Space is really is important in order for them to thermoregulate properly.

Small adult size does not necessarily mean these geckos should be placed in cramped quarters.

Basking spot temperatures can and should reach into the low 90s, while the coolest side of the cage can drop down into the low 70s.

I would not suggest dusting with D3 while using UVB which this caresheet does state. One of the reasons posting caresheets worry me.

Electric Blue Day Gecko Care Sheet - Lygodactylus williamsi

Best of luck

Primal Rage

New member
Thank you for sharing your opinion of my set up and your collective knowledge regarding hatchling L.Williamsi husbandry. I can see were this is going. Please try to control your penis envy Cricket. It is very off putting. What worries me is someone who is clueless about a particular species handing out "pseudo" facts and info regarding hatchling care. LLLReptile does not breed L.Williamsi, nor does their caresheet mention hatchlings. Why post links of irrelevant info? You obviously are not reading the content inside the links before you post them. I guess you and your friend should come to the Lygodactylus Breeders and Owners group on FB and tell us(250+people) how we are all keeping our hatchlings in cramped conditions and over exposing them to UVB. I am sure the top breeders in the US and Europe who have 10+ years working with this species would love to hear your hatchling advice. Several breeders from the US, Canada, Europe, ,and Asia keep their hatchlings in very similar setups and have had increased success raising hatchlings in the way I mentioned. If anyone reading this thread would like to join the FB group to connect with other Lygodactylus Breeders and Keepers please send me a PM. Thanks and best of luck.


Staff member
I strongly suggest everyone take a deep breath, calm down, and play nice.
No need to get nasty.

There's more than one way to raise hatchlings, some are better than others.

If you've never kept this species, or raised their young, it really doesn't help to chime in with second hand information and speculation.

Keep it civil, otherwise this thread will be closed.

Riverside Reptiles

Administrator (HMFIC)
LLL is one nothing more than a retail middleman/jobber outfit. That care sheet has no author or date associated with it. Thus, no way to validate any of the information as being recent and/or correct. And, as Hilde has so wisely said, if you don't have hands on experience with a species, it's likely best not to give raising and keeping advice for that particular species. I keep many of my small hatchlings from various species in small "gladware" type cubes for the first few months. It allows me to monitor eating, activity, fecals, a lot more accurately, and it allows the babies an easier hunting experience and a little more security. We also need to remember that just because one person (or group) says that the "ideal" temp is one thing, doesn't make it so. Animals generally encounter a wide range of temps throughout their range and throughout the day (as well as variance from season to season, year to year, etc). These temps are not always optimum, yet someone how these species continue to survive and thrive.


New member
Please try to control your penis envy Cricket

I have no idea what gave you this impression. I had all the best intentions. I know many have failed at raising them, therefore I mentioned a commonly known problem in most reptiles which is lack of a proper temperature gradient. By offering more, the chances of failure is reduced.

What worries me is someone who is clueless about a particular species handing out "pseudo" facts
I am not clueless. I have helped him with basic knowledge.

I know his are doing well and are all over a year at the least, if not I would not have said a thing. I will try...

I'm a little anal so I prefer for this person to give specific details themselves. I will talk to him to see if he agrees to post on the forum himself.

LLL is one nothing more than a retail middleman/jobber outfit.

Sorry, I had no idea. The caresheet is very basic and matches many I have read. but this is why I stated "Please keep in mind that no caresheet is perfect."
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New member
Thank you all for the priceless info guys.

Primal rage : what is the substrate you use in the hatchlings setup?
looks like peat...
Ethan : can you please post some pics of your hatchlings setup or elaborate a bit more on what you put inside the cubes...

Thank you


New member
You are correct OH23! It is OMRI listed peat moss. The pothos cuttings do very well in this medium.

Do you find a big advantage using the pothos cuttings over plastic plants? I have eggs so will be going down this road soon and want to be as prepared as possible.

Primal Rage

New member
Reptoman- I think the hatchlings are indifferent. However, I enjoy seeing the live plants in their mini vivs. From what I have seen and read the main things that go wrong with hatchling L.Williamsi are 1)diet 2) humidity too low
3)temps too high 4) bad information being passed around.

Primal Rage

New member
Here are a couple shots of a community tank I have set up for hatchlings that are 2+months old. There is also a pic of a baby that hatched last night. Sorry for the quality of pics.


New member
btw - i provide small fruit flies, some fruit puree and the temps are around 75-80F
and mist daily. View attachment 34915
View attachment 34916

First of all sorry about my poor English as I'm not native and for the late reply. I see you provide fruit puree, wich is pretty sticky. The hatchlings are quite active but fragile, if they by chance were to step in the puree and are unable to get themselves clean, as it drys out it could maybe explain the symtomps explained in the first post as I would say their fingers are their most fragile part.

It might not be the answer to your problems, but it is maybe worth a try to wait a little bit until you provide that kind of food.


New member
Guys this is great info and a lot of help ! thank you.

primal rage - your photos are great, thank you .

Vipio - thank you for the advice its much appreciated :)
the fruit puree isn't the cause for this situation i actually excluded it from some of the hatchlings diet in the first week just to see if this may be the cause of their feet get messed up.

i have to say the babies hatch in a perfect form and are very active...
More photos of successful hatchlings setups are welcome and needed.

Thank you all for all the help and priceless info

Molly p.

New member
mollyscam b52.2.2014 0.4g.jpgmollyscam b52.2.2014 0.4g.jpgI had success keeping them in individual mason jars. I removed the metal piece in the lids and used tulle netting so UVB could get in. I kept the jars in a 10 gal aquarium with a undertank heater below and a 18" 10.0 UVB light directly above. It was between 80-90F without incandescents used. I only lost 3 out of 15 young, and the first was my own fault (humidity too high and the toes went necrotic). Temp definitely sounds too low.

I can send more pics if you want- sorry about the duplicate
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New member
Hey Molly,
This sounds exactly why I lose my babies "necrotic toes".
Thank you very much for this information and yes, I'd realy like some more pics of your successful setup.
What is your misting regime ? And what is the substrate you use in the mason jars ?
Thanks again :)

Molly p.

New member
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you- busy!! I misted in am and pm-- about every 12 hours. The temp was warm enough that it would dry out completely in between. I used paper towels as the substrate but kept a small live plant in the jar to help retain humidity. Sanseviera spp. in tiny pots work well as long as the roots don't stay wet all the time. I'll have to get my old set up out of a closet and send pics next time. Hope this helps for now.


New member
Its all good Molly :)
Thank you and am.looking forward to see the pics .
I appreciate your efforts and time.

Molly p.

New member
mollyscam 378.jpgmollyscam 375.jpgmollyscam 377.jpgmollyscam b1RIP.jpg

Here are pics: 1/2 gal Mason jar with branch and fake plant, side view and top view. I cut pieces of tulle and screwed them down w/ the jar lids. The light degrades them over time; I had to replace a few that developed holes.

There's also a pic of the jar in the 10gal with undertank heat pad below and strip light above- no glass between strip light and jars!

Last is a pic of a juvie on his branch in a jar-they love to get right up under the UVB light. There is a live plant in this one. I tried to keep a live plant in each jar. Up to 8 jars fit in a 10 gal.


New member
This is awesome Molly, THANK YOU SO MUCH.
I'll copy your setup and report, hopefully, with success story.


New member
How did you get on - did you have success in keeping the baby williamsi alive? I've recently acquired 4 - an adult male and 3 juveniles (hoping for at least 1 breeding pair), the breeder that has sold them to me has been very honest and said that the babies are not very hardy in his experience and a 50% survival rating is good).
I'm keen to understand if the advice in this post has been successful and what other peoples success rates are.