Feeding

[fxarrell]

Hey guys I recently got a new leopard gecko, and I've got a suitable viviarium for her, I want to ask FYI, I feed her mealworms as a staple

1.how often should I feed her
2. How many mealworms at a time
3. Leopard geckos stop when they do not want to eat anymore right? So it can't overfeed?
4. Should I provide mealworms in a dish at all times in the viviarium?
5. Humidity?
6.should I handle her?

My Leopard gecko is about 11-13 cm long

 

[Tokaybyt]

1. At 11-13cm your gecko is still young. You want to be providing food on a daily basis for optimal food intake = potentially optimal growth, assuming proper habitat conditions are met.
   
   
2. This will vary depending on the appetite of you gecko. 5-10 mealworms should be a good starting point per feeding. Mealworms have a thicker chitin exoskeleton compared to other feeder insects, thus making them a little harder to digest. Make certain your temperatures are proper so they they can be properly digested.
   
   
3. Just like any other pet left with standing food, they will eat to the point of overeating, which can and does lead to obesity...The Roach Guy - Nutritional Facts of various feeder insects. Mealworms are also quite high in fat compared to other feeder insects, leading to an even easier chance of an over weight animal.
   
   
4. No...leaving standing food is not ideal. By doing such, 1) you're promoting the potential for an obese pet and 2) those mealworms left in the cage will eventually lose nutritional value. Prey items need to be gutloaded (which is different than just simply feeding the prey to keep them alive) 24-48 hrs prior to being offered as food to the gecko.
   
   
5. Leopard geckos, like other Eublepharids, are a semi-fossorial species. Natural hiding areas include rodent burrow systems to tunnels dug under rock and other debris cover. These locations, particularly rodent burrows and tunneled under rock piles, result in elevated humidity levels. The cage should be desert conditions, basically a humidity value under 40%, but they should be provided a moist hide to mimic said rodent burrow or under rock tunnel system. Here in the American Southwest, the small distant cousin of leopard geckos are the handful of banded gecko species. These geckos are typically surface active 2-3 days after a rain storm, where they can be readily found under various forms of surface cover (man-made debris, fallen yucca plants, under rocks, etc.); leopard geckos behave similarly.
   
   
6. Before answering this....how long have you had her? If newly purchased, you want to give your gecko up to 2 weeks to settle in, getting comfortable in its new habitat and surroundings, as well as your overall presence. Any handling at this point should be limited to cage cleaning(s).
   
   
7. I strongly suggest reading Elizabeth Freer's leopard gecko care sheet.
   
   http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...-macularius-demo-video-4-jan-2013-update.html
   
   A very good starting point that should go into additional detail between your questions and my answers.

Welcome to Geckos Unlimited!

 

[fxarrell]

Wow thanks a lot, I'll make sure of it

 

[amsdadtodd]

Chris has already covered your questions quite well, the only 2 things I would add are to quickly get your new pet used to a second food source, such as crickets or one of the many feeder roach species. Variety is important, and these are both much more nutritious than mealworms, which are okay as a second food source, but not as a primary staple. The second point I want to make is to pay great attention to the discussion on supplements in the care sheet which Chris pointed you towards. This is very important in a growing leo!

How about posting some pictures and an introduction in the general info, intro, and pictures forum?

Todd

 

[Keeboard]

1. at this time, yes, your gecko should be fed daily. once your gecko gets to be over a year old, it can be fed every other day to every three or four days.
2. your gecko should be fed as many mealworms as it will eat in 15 minutes.
3. geckos can overeat
4. i have heard that you can, but i dont have experience with mealworms so im not sure
5. your gecko only needs humidity in one hide: the moist hide, which should go on the warm side of the tank. this is important for shedding. the hide should have either paper towel or moss for the substrate. i recommend moss because it holds moisture better and is natural, but it shouldnt be ingested.
6. you can handle your gecko, but if new give it time to settle in. i have heard of someone who has geckos who are ok with being handled immediately, but your gecko will most likely not be like this. your gecko may never like being handled, may tolerate it, may eventually enjoy it, depends on the personality. to handle your gecko, make sure your gecko sees your hand and slide your hand under the geckos belly, then lift. its best to do this when the gecko is young. start with minimal handling. i handle mine daily.