He's not fully grown....and I'm feeding Raphasy and crickets ...I just had him for about a week or so and I'm pretty sure he's not using his food dish...so I have been hand feeding him rapashy off my finger tips and he gobbles it down..been doing this every other day....I tryed him with crickets on the days I don't feed him rapashy...but he wouldn't eat them he actually starts breathing heavy like he's scared of them lol but tonight I got him to eat one cricket ...I dusted the cricket and rubbed the cricket on his nose and he ate um....so like how many crickets...how many do I dust...and when should I hand feed him raspahy
How often should I feed my crestie
- Thread starter Cresti
- Start date
Yoshi'smom
New member
The dusting of the crickets with Cal +D3 is ok once every other week. I'd offer insects about once a week. That's how insect days go here.
I feed CGD diets on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday and leave the dish in at all times.
I would not continue to hand feed your gecko. Doing this can lead it to depending on you to find food. Just continue to leave food in the enclosure. He'll find it. I once had a new arrival not eat for 4 weeks. It's stressful for us when they don't eat, but it's even more stressful for them to be in a new place.
I would minimalize the handling during the first two weeks as they are still acclimating to their new surroundings and the handling could be leading to him not eating on his own.
Another reason why a crested gecko may not want to eat is that they don't feel secure in the housing provided. Do you have lots of foliage and climbing things for your gecko? My rule of thumb is that you should have a hard time finding your gecko with all the foliage. A secure feeling gecko will be a happy, hungry gecko.
I feed CGD diets on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday and leave the dish in at all times.
I would not continue to hand feed your gecko. Doing this can lead it to depending on you to find food. Just continue to leave food in the enclosure. He'll find it. I once had a new arrival not eat for 4 weeks. It's stressful for us when they don't eat, but it's even more stressful for them to be in a new place.
I would minimalize the handling during the first two weeks as they are still acclimating to their new surroundings and the handling could be leading to him not eating on his own.
Another reason why a crested gecko may not want to eat is that they don't feel secure in the housing provided. Do you have lots of foliage and climbing things for your gecko? My rule of thumb is that you should have a hard time finding your gecko with all the foliage. A secure feeling gecko will be a happy, hungry gecko.
Yoshi'smom
New member
I would definitely add much more foliage and things to climb on in the tank. It doesn't look like there is enough to me.
In addition to a gecko not feeling secure (and not eating as a result), lack of foliage can cause FTS (Floppy Tail Syndrome). When a gecko has no other objects to sleep on, they will often sleep on the glass upside-down. The tail will over time start to hang over their body and cause the FTS. FTS if let to develop will lead to painful hips twisting, tail/hip deformities and loss of leg use.
Really, I would grab an additional plant or two to hang from the sides and add another vine or grab a branch from outdoors. Your gecko will really appreciate it.
(It's important to note that if you want to add a branch or two in the tank, you should scrub them down and then freeze them to kill anything that may be living in or on it. You don't want to introduce any bacteria or pests into your tank. This is how I treat all my branches in my tanks. They're free too!!)
In addition to a gecko not feeling secure (and not eating as a result), lack of foliage can cause FTS (Floppy Tail Syndrome). When a gecko has no other objects to sleep on, they will often sleep on the glass upside-down. The tail will over time start to hang over their body and cause the FTS. FTS if let to develop will lead to painful hips twisting, tail/hip deformities and loss of leg use.
Really, I would grab an additional plant or two to hang from the sides and add another vine or grab a branch from outdoors. Your gecko will really appreciate it.
(It's important to note that if you want to add a branch or two in the tank, you should scrub them down and then freeze them to kill anything that may be living in or on it. You don't want to introduce any bacteria or pests into your tank. This is how I treat all my branches in my tanks. They're free too!!)
Aimless
Super Moderator
I agree that it needs more sticks and foliage 
however...freezing in a standard refrigerator freezer will kill very few bacteria, and pretty much zero spores or fungi. when I get sticks from outside, I'm inclined to make sure they are very dry and don't have signs of rot or insect infestation, and then I just toss 'em in the cage.
some people bake them, but in order to kill a significant amount of microbes you need to go hot enough/long enough for the wood to get brittle.
cork bark rounds or pieces of bamboo also make great hides.
however...freezing in a standard refrigerator freezer will kill very few bacteria, and pretty much zero spores or fungi. when I get sticks from outside, I'm inclined to make sure they are very dry and don't have signs of rot or insect infestation, and then I just toss 'em in the cage.some people bake them, but in order to kill a significant amount of microbes you need to go hot enough/long enough for the wood to get brittle.
cork bark rounds or pieces of bamboo also make great hides.
Revasius
New member
Agreed on getting more plants and branches for your gecko. You can get the Exo Terra suction cup plants on Amazon for way less than in-store. Cork and bamboo tubes are always big hits with mine. (Also cheaper on Amazon). I used water, steel wool, and borax/bleach to clean my sticks, and it worked really well. Make sure you dilute the chemicals with water first.
For the feeding, I would feed every other day.
For the feeding, I would feed every other day.