Ok, so i just got my first leopard gecko. The first few days he pooped normally (first and second day) he now is pooping bumpy like. It's scaring me, they fed him crickets in the shop and I feed him crickets now. He is still getting used to everything, he has been with me for 3-4 days. What should I do? What is it?:yikes:
Leopard gecko poop issues
- Thread starter Ari86643
- Start date
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Welcome to Geckos Unlimited!
How about sharing a photo of your leo's enclosure?
What substrate are you using? What temperatures as measured by the probe of a digital thermometer (warm end, cool end) is the vivarium?
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
You are welcome!
It's really important to know the ground temperature underneath the warm dry hide. Leo's depend upon belly heat to digest their prey. Without proper temperatures, leos will have trouble digesting their food. That can result in lumpy feces.
- Eco Earth can be a problem. A leo can eat some Eco Earth when they dive for a cricket or for a mealworm. Eco Earth can cause impaction. For now I recommend paper towels, slate, or rough textured ceramic tiles
- Pick up one of those yellow Zoo Med digital thermometers with a probe at PetCo for about $10. That's a must.
- Add a homemade plastic hide on the warm end similar to these. You can use damp paper towels, damp moss, or packed down Eco Earth coco fiber inside that.
Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured by the probe of a digital thermometer
- 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
- no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
- no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end
I've looked up substate over and over and over. I heard Eco earth is digestable. It breaks down if you use water so why wouldn't it now? I don't mean to question you. Plus when he's eating I don't see Eco earth entering his mouth. Again, you know more than I probably ever will! And what is the moist hide going to aid in this? I'm just curious because I heard it was for shedding but why is it a must at all times? Thank you!
Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
I'm not certain Eco Earth's coco fiber is digestible. Maybe "breaking down" and being digestible are different. I've had some coco fiber sitting in some water since May 10th. The water is evaporating; the coco fiber remains. In some situations, we spray coco fiber. Up to a certain extent it absorbs the water and, in doing so, "swells" a little.
That's an easy experiment to try.
A warm moist hide serves two purposes. It helps a leo shed; it also helps a leo stay hydrated.
Here's Zoo Med's number: 888-496-6633.
May I ask what powder (brand and type) is in the small lid?
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Elizabeth Freer
Well-known member
Plain calcium? Powdered calcium would not make lumpy poops. Sand and coco fiber can make lumpy poops. Feel the poops between your fingers. Do they feel gritty?
Please share a photo of your leo and another photo of his belly. How old is he?
Can you see my former posts, especially post 4? There is detailed info right there. Knowing the precise temperatures is vital! If people do not stay hydrated, constipation will happen.
Zoo Med told me this afternoon that they do NOT recommend Eco Earth's coco fiber as a substrate for hatchling leos or even juvie leos. They recommend EE's coco fiber for crested geckos. Leos like humidity around 40-55%.
If you suspect impaction, only feed Gerber's turkey baby food until we get this sorted out. The fiber in crickets (and in coco fiber) will only make things worse.
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Zux
New member
Hi Ari,
I am the Shane who you have been in email contact with, it will be easier if we all continue to work out the issues on this thread so everybody can stay up to speed.
Right off the bat I will just weigh in on the substrate issue briefly, I do not believe Eco Earth to be the cause of these issues but it certainly could be making things worse in this case. Any loose substrate can cause or exacerbate issues when husbandry is not spot on and the animal is not well hydrated and healthy to begin with.
I have seen the images of the poop and now of the setup and am confident there is digestive issues of some sort at play. I also feel that this is very possibly being caused by improper heat provision, to solve that you are going to need two things, a thermometer, either digital or infra-red and a thermostat to control the heat being put out by the mat you have.
If you let us know where you are living we can perhaps recommend a good place to buy these things. They are quite affordable for most people but you are going to need them for certain, I'm afraid there is no getting around it.
I am the Shane who you have been in email contact with, it will be easier if we all continue to work out the issues on this thread so everybody can stay up to speed.
Right off the bat I will just weigh in on the substrate issue briefly, I do not believe Eco Earth to be the cause of these issues but it certainly could be making things worse in this case. Any loose substrate can cause or exacerbate issues when husbandry is not spot on and the animal is not well hydrated and healthy to begin with.
I have seen the images of the poop and now of the setup and am confident there is digestive issues of some sort at play. I also feel that this is very possibly being caused by improper heat provision, to solve that you are going to need two things, a thermometer, either digital or infra-red and a thermostat to control the heat being put out by the mat you have.
If you let us know where you are living we can perhaps recommend a good place to buy these things. They are quite affordable for most people but you are going to need them for certain, I'm afraid there is no getting around it.
Zux
New member
You can try what I mentioned with a drop of mineral oil on the nose, do this only once, avoid the nostrils and then we need to work on controlling the heating.
Not having the heat correct will quickly result in this issue becoming a serious concern and then life threatening in short order after that.
To begin with you can reduce the depth of eco-earth outside his warm hide to about half what it is, this will allow him to lie on a warmer area if he should so choose.
The quicker you are able to purchase a thermostat and thermometer the better for him however, as without those this will not be resolved.
Not having the heat correct will quickly result in this issue becoming a serious concern and then life threatening in short order after that.
To begin with you can reduce the depth of eco-earth outside his warm hide to about half what it is, this will allow him to lie on a warmer area if he should so choose.
The quicker you are able to purchase a thermostat and thermometer the better for him however, as without those this will not be resolved.
Zux
New member
Amazon.com : Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden
I believe this is the thermostat many of my American friends use here on GU.
HDE Non-Contact Infrared IR Temperature Gun Digital Thermometer: Science Lab Digital Thermometers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Since I have, of late, lost faith in the effectiveness of digital probes proving accurate readings for surface temperatures I recommend the above temp 'gun' personally.
The idea here is to have the thermostat set and control the temperature, these by nature are normally inaccurate at actually measuring temps however and thus the temp-gun allows you to find the true temps and then set the thermostat around that. While that sounds complex its very simple in practice and is the only true way of providing what your new friend needs.
I believe this is the thermostat many of my American friends use here on GU.
HDE Non-Contact Infrared IR Temperature Gun Digital Thermometer: Science Lab Digital Thermometers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Since I have, of late, lost faith in the effectiveness of digital probes proving accurate readings for surface temperatures I recommend the above temp 'gun' personally.
The idea here is to have the thermostat set and control the temperature, these by nature are normally inaccurate at actually measuring temps however and thus the temp-gun allows you to find the true temps and then set the thermostat around that. While that sounds complex its very simple in practice and is the only true way of providing what your new friend needs.
Zux
New member
Nope, doesn't have to be that one by any means, any will do, though I think that one is supposed to be excellent value.
Brands I am familiar with are only produced in Britain as far as I know but they are Habistat and Microclimate.
Your local reptile store may well carry just what you need for a better price. You can let them know you need a thermostat to control your heat mat.
It is still important to get a temp-gun or if you prefer a digital thermometer with probe in order to actually measure the temps however, because the thermostat will be inaccurate at measuring those, they can only be relied upon to keep the temps stable and it is then up to us to keep adjusting until its correct.
Brands I am familiar with are only produced in Britain as far as I know but they are Habistat and Microclimate.
Your local reptile store may well carry just what you need for a better price. You can let them know you need a thermostat to control your heat mat.
It is still important to get a temp-gun or if you prefer a digital thermometer with probe in order to actually measure the temps however, because the thermostat will be inaccurate at measuring those, they can only be relied upon to keep the temps stable and it is then up to us to keep adjusting until its correct.