UTH Help - Thermostat Placement & Other Concerns

[likebutta]

With my custom tempered glass order coming in soon, I want to ask a question about the Thermostat probe placement. For reference, I have the Exo-Terra Medium Low Terrarium (60 x 45 x 30 cm / 24” x 18” x 12” (WxDxH)). I have glossed tile but I still need to cut to size to encompass the entire terrarium floor.


So anyway, on the topic of the UTH, I am looking for some opinions on how to place the thermostat probe. From my understanding, the best way to place a UTH for a Leo is underneath the tank (and not on the side of the tank like in their videos or even at the bottom inside the tank).

- Is the best place for the thermostat probe sandwiched in the middle between the UTH and underneath of the terrarium bottom?

- If inside, is it best to affix it to the bottom glass of the terrarium, below all substrate? Or on top of the tile? Or perhaps inbetween (eg: papertowel base, thermostat probe, tile)?

--> If inside, does the cable going all the way down not present a way for crickets to climb up and out when released in the terrarium for feeding time? Are there ways around it if so? (eg: some sort of slippery coating that isn't toxic for the Leo).



Thanks in advance,

butta & Chickenball

 

[wicked gecko]

You can attach the probe to the uth with foil tape. I had a hard time getting mine warm enough so placed the probe on the floor in the hot hide and adjusted accordingly with my laser thermometer. If yours works well with probe directly on uth I'd think it would be most consistent temp wise

 

[Keeboard]

Wouldn't you put the probe on the substrate, since that's where your gecko will be?

 

[wicked gecko]

I had to move min in to get temp high enough but many have it directly to uth for consitancy. Either way it's best to double check with laser thermometer and adjust from there.

 

[sachen]

I put my probe in my tank and above the substrate.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Hi butta ~

A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited!

With my custom tempered glass order coming in soon, I want to ask a question about the Thermostat probe placement. For reference, I have the Exo-Terra Medium Low Terrarium (60 x 45 x 30 cm / 24” x 18” x 12” (WxDxH)). I have glossed tile but I still need to cut to size to encompass the entire terrarium floor.

Rather than glossy tiles can you get some rough textured ceramic or porcelain tile or thin slate not more than 3/8 inch thick? That way your leo's feet will be able to grip better. If you use glossy tiles, a leo has a tendency to slide.

Be sure to place a thin layer of well-washed sand under the tiles to fill in the grooves. Otherwise the grooves cause uneven heating from your UTH.

I had to move min in to get temp high enough but many have it directly to uth for consitancy. Either way it's best to double check with laser thermometer and adjust from there.

That's correct, Russ. Adjust your thermostat based upon readings from a laser thermometer!

GU's Zux (Shane) recommends this temp gun: Amazon.com: HDE Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight: Home Improvement

I tape my thermostat's probe to a digital thermometer's probe and leave both on the tile right underneath the warm dry hide.

This is the thermostat many of us use:

Click: http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Ce...keywords=hydrofarm+mtprtc+digital+thermostat] It has a convenient digital readout and a small metal probe. This thermostat should vary no more than +/- 3 degrees F from its setting before it turns on or off.

 

[likebutta]

You can attach the probe to the uth with foil tape. I had a hard time getting mine warm enough so placed the probe on the floor in the hot hide and adjusted accordingly with my laser thermometer. If yours works well with probe directly on uth I'd think it would be most consistent temp wise

Yea I guess that would be the concern. With mediums between the UTH, actual surface temperature would take a bit more time and guess work to nail down properly. Thank you.

Wouldn't you put the probe on the substrate, since that's where your gecko will be?

Yes, that was one of my findings around the internet. Unfortunately, it was one of many methods I've read about so I thought I would ask here to see if I could narrow it down. Thank you.

I put my probe in my tank and above the substrate.

Seems to be the most popular and logically sound option. Thank you.

Hi butta ~

A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited!



Rather than glossy tiles can you get some rough textured ceramic or porcelain tile or thin slate not more than 3/8 inch thick? That way your leo's feet will be able to grip better. If you use glossy tiles, a leo has a tendency to slide.

Hmm, I could. I initially got the glossy tiles because I read that rough, porous tiles could harbor bacteria. But the slipping problem does present an issue if he were to attempt to hunt crickets on it.

Be sure to place a thin layer of well-washed sand under the tiles to fill in the grooves. Otherwise the grooves cause uneven heating from your UTH.

Would a sand be the best medium? I know large amounts would cause impaction but, would there be a safer alternative like eco-earth? Or would that not transfer the heat as well?



That's correct, Russ. Adjust your thermostat based upon readings from a laser thermometer!

GU's Zux (Shane) recommends this temp gun: Amazon.com: HDE Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight: Home Improvement

I actually have a very similar Temperature thermometer, with a slight few more options on it. Looks exactly the same except for the few extra buttons. So I think I should be good to go!

I tape my thermostat's probe to a digital thermometer's probe and leave both on the tile right underneath the warm dry hide.

I see. So on top of the tile itself? I guess this raises my concern about a small but nonetheless potential issue. How do people prevent crickets from behind able to climb up the cabling of the probe?

This is the thermostat many of us use:

Click: http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Ce...keywords=hydrofarm+mtprtc+digital+thermostat] It has a convenient digital readout and a small metal probe. This thermostat should vary no more than +/- 3 degrees F from its setting before it turns on or off.

Awesome, I bought the exact same one! Thank you.

Thanks again to all have responded. I think that should satisfy most of my questions and concerns, though if anyone knows of any tips to prevent the crickets from trying to crawl up the temperature probe cabling, that would be awesome!

 

[likebutta]

Weird. I posted a reply with multi-quotes but it didn't appear (system says deleted posts). I replied to everyone but it was a bit long winded so I am going to keep this one short.

Thanks to everyone who responded. I agree with most of the suggestions given.
[MENTION=3989]Elizabeth Freer[/MENTION]

Thank you. I got most of those tools at the ready (exact temp gun, same thermostat). In regards to the tiles, I originally got gloss because I read somewhere that non-gloss can harbor bacteria. They are actually long tiles (after cut, the two would fit the entire terrarium bottom) I can see the need to fill the gaps. But I can see how it can potentially be frustrating for the gecko (need all the grip they can get for launch in a cricket hunt).

As far as the thin layer of sand... are there any issues of impaction? Lord knows the crickets will gravitate to the cracks and he might get some sand here and there with his bite. Is there an alternative or is sand use as a heat transfer medium?


Also, an outstanding question regarding the probe in / top of the tile method - does anyone have issues with crickets climbing up the probe cable and if so, how does one mitigate that? Also, does the leo potentially cause any damage to the cabling or the probe end itself?

 

[Zux]

You guys covered it all !

 

[Zux]

As far as the thin layer of sand... are there any issues of impaction? Lord knows the crickets will gravitate to the cracks and he might get some sand here and there with his bite. Is there an alternative or is sand use as a heat transfer medium?

When a Gecko or any lizard for that matter, no matter the hunting style, is well hydrated, supplemented and heated there is almost no risk of impaction from a loose substrate such as fine play-sand, anything consumed in a reasonable volume will pass without issue.

In your case the amount of loose substrate would be so little that even if there were outstanding husbandry concerns risk would be still be very low indeed.

With the exception of things like Calci-Sand the use of a loose substrate is actually not the factor which causes impaction, rather it is the combination of husbandry issues in the presence of such.

It is for that reason new Gecko owners should be advised against using anything loose so that risk of impaction ( caused by their possibly poor care) is removed and not because using anything loose will become stuck and build over time resulting in impaction. If that were the case all of these species would have died out many moons ago !


Anyways sorry for rambling, to answer your question, nothing to worry about and sand will conduct the heat best for this purpose.

 

[likebutta]

Thanks for the insight Zux. And thanks to everyone else as well.

I also was able to figured out what was happening with my replies. Thank you to Hilde for clearing them up.

 

[likebutta]

So, late last month I finally got my tempered glass and recently finished the full, proper setup for Chickenball's terrarium. I may need to tinker a bit with the UTH and the Jumpstart probe placement but I'm finding it difficult to maintain a temperature. When I set the Jumpstart thermostat to 88F, the tile goes up to 95F (as read by temperature gun). If I lower the thermostat to 85 or 86, it seems to get to optimal temperatures for most of the tile area on heat side (86 to 90F variance) but seems to fall to 87F, 86F and hold around that area for awhile before falling below to retrigger the heating cycle. So it's not optimal but better than before, obviously (re: no UTH).

EDIT: Actually, it's kind of weird. The Thermostat is set to 86F, the temperature has dropped to 85.1F on the thermostat probe and it's not cycling on the heater. But if I manually set it to 87F, it turns on right away.

EDIT2: Forgot to add pictures of his new setup (slate-like tiles with texture. I custom cut them to minimize groove size between tiles)

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

So, late last month I finally got my tempered glass and recently finished the full, proper setup for Chickenball's terrarium. I may need to tinker a bit with the UTH and the Jumpstart probe placement but I'm finding it difficult to maintain a temperature. When I set the Jumpstart thermostat to 88F, the tile goes up to 95F (as read by temperature gun). If I lower the thermostat to 85 or 86, it seems to get to optimal temperatures for most of the tile area on heat side (86 to 90F variance) but seems to fall to 87F, 86F and hold around that area for awhile before falling below to retrigger the heating cycle. So it's not optimal but better than before, obviously (re: no UTH).

EDIT: Actually, it's kind of weird. The Thermostat is set to 86F, the temperature has dropped to 85.1F on the thermostat probe and it's not cycling on the heater. But if I manually set it to 87F, it turns on right away.

EDIT2: Forgot to add pictures of his new setup (slate-like tiles with texture. I custom cut them to minimize groove size between tiles)......

I'd set the Jump Start to 90-91*F. Your thermostat should vary no more than +/- 3*F before turning off or on.

If it varies more than this, maybe the thermostat is defective.

 

[likebutta]

I'd set the Jump Start to 90-91*F. Your thermostat should vary no more than +/- 3*F before turning off or on.

If it varies more than this, maybe the thermostat is defective.

Thanks, I thought it had a smaller range than that. They both seem to be working fine now.