Am I set?

JTB

New member
In a few months time (well, Christmas) I should be getting a crested gecko. I'm already pretty certain I know everything I need to know as to regards to keeping it, but I have a few questions that don't seem to get answered that often or at all definitely.

I'll start by saying the very basics of what I think I need and am required to do, then I'll ask questions.

Temperature: No heating, 20-22*C
Lighting: None required, but I'll probably get a 7% output UVB bulb anyway
Cage: Exo Terra 45X45X60cm (LXDXH) - this is actually arriving within a week, I'm already
getting prepared :biggrin:
Substrate: Eco Earth, Plantation Soil, Coco Brick etc (coconut fibre). Also some sphagnum moss or similar.
Feeding: Some form of CGD (I have a question about this I'll ask down below) alongside weekly or bi-weekly insects in the form of locusts, wax worms and meal worms, all of which dusted in Arcadia Earth-Pro A.
Humidity: Kept damp, misted once before lights out every day so that everything gets wet and can dry out again before the next day. I might do twice daily misting but I seriously doubt it will all dry up that fast.
Sourcing: I'll be getting it from Pets at Home I think, although if this is 100% impossible at the time I'll order from LillyExotics. I know P@H can get a bad rap but honestly from my personal experience they're A okay when it comes to reptiles.
Handling: Handled after cleaning hands, for 20-30 minute sessions every two/three days. Also handled near the floor or a surface to prevent it leaping off and hurting itself/escaping.
Cage furnishings: Canopy food holder (ProRep Jelly Pot holder, though don't worry, I won't actually use Jelly Pots!), milk lid for food, hanging plants, vines, stand-alone plants preferably with horizontal leaves, cork bark if can get some and maybe some magnetic ledges if I can find any that don't break the bank!

That's pretty much the bare bones of what I think I need to know, but I have a few questions that I want to clear up before I get the animal.

1) Is floppy tail syndrome preventable just by providing horizontal sleeping areas? I only found out about FTS last night so it's quite a new thing in my mind!
2) Do you recommend Pangea CGD, or Repashy? I read that a lot of geckos won't touch the latest version of Repashy, but everything on that subject seems to be from two years ago and surely Repashy would have changed back to the old diet if it was better? I'd just play safe and try Pangea, but they feed Repashy at P@H AND LillyExotics so I'm not certain whether it'd just be better to give it what it's used to having?
3) If you think Pangea is better, then what flavour would you suggest? I've heard good stuff about the PFMC With Insects.
4) When I feed off insects, can't I just dust them with CGD powder?
5) Is there any behavioral differences between males and females? Like is one more active or one better for handling?
6) If I got a male, could it impact my leopard gecko? She's a female and will be situated right next to the cresty's cage when I get it and I only just thought, maybe male pheromones would send my leo into ovulation? I say this because the YouTube channel called Leopard Gecko has only one male leopard gecko and all of her female geckos (crested and leopard) go into ovulation without any sort of contact with the male. If this is a possibility I definitely want a female cresty because I wouldn't like to put Cleo (my leopard) through the possible stress of laying eggs for no reason.
7) Can a cresty pass anything on to a leopard gecko, i.e. will it need a quarantine period?
Eight (for some reason, putting 8 and then a closing bracket makes a face with sunglasses...)) Is there anything I should know about that I've not mentioned, like diseases to which they are susceptible, things to do with husbandry and little tricks that are helpful in day to day dealings with cresties?

Thanks a lot if you've actually made it to the bottom, there's a lot of questions up there I'm afraid! Anyway, thank you in advance for any replies and I'll look forward to hearing from you all!
 

JTB

New member
Thanks, there's some good stuff there. It doesn't really answer all my questions but there's lots of nice info to scan through :)
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
  • Range: 19.4 - 26.7 ish *C.
  • I suggest a 60 day quarantine in a different room than your leo. Diseases can be transferred between reptiles.
  • Eco Earth's "brick" is coco fiber.
  • Start out with the diet your crestie is accustomed to. Then gradually switch/combine/add Pangea Complete diets.
  • I use Pangea Complete diets for my crestie George: with insects, watermelon/mango, & banana/apricot. It's good to have all 3 so you can vary the diet.
  • I'd skip waxworms and mealworms. Do locusts and crickets (? Blaptica dubia) for insects.
  • Try dusting the insects with Pangea Complete diets. :)
  • No handling at first. Let your crestie settle in.
  • Humidity: damp NOT wet & then dry out.
  • Add hiding place for sleeping: 2-3 inch diameter bamboo tube, cork tube, or PVC tube.
  • "8." works. :biggrin:

Click for more answers: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...o-caresheet-summary-tips-february-2015-a.html

There are more tips in the posts following my basic crestie care guidelines.
 
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JTB

New member
Thanks for that :D
I've already read JB's website, it's quite good!

Why ditch mealworms and waxworms? I know people say that mealworms can cause impaction and waxworms are fatty, but surely they'll be fine every now and again? I can't get crickets or roaches sadly, the last time I had crickets for my leopard gecko they smelt that bad that I'm now no longer allowed them and if I've ever mentioned roaches it's 'NO. Nonononono!' etc etc

I want cork bark, it looks really good, but in the UK (or at least where I am) they don't seem to sell it anywhere. The magnetic hides look good but you can't get them here either :/. I think bamboo might be a good option though, I can get that!

As for quarantine, that's going to be a bit tricky, I might have to temporarily keep it in a RUB/hero haven/faunarium/kritter keeper which I assume will be OK?

Talking about that, I forgot to ask something. In P@H they keep the Cresties in cages about 60X60X90, so if I got one from there would it be fine to put it straight into the 45X45X60?

Thanks again :)
 

Yoshi'smom

New member
If you feed mealworms, they have harder exoskeletons and cresties don't get the belly heat that would aid them in digesting these bugs. Waxworms are very fatty and can be addictive to geckos and you don't want your gecko to refuse healthy foods for bad ones.
I would suggest that if you get a young gecko your best option would be to start out in a medium kritter keeper anyways. Small geckos tend to do better in a smaller enclosure and when they get a little bigger you can move it into the larger tank.
 

JTB

New member
Okay, I never thought of that with the heat. That makes quite a lot of sense!

Wouldn't putting it in a smaller enclosure be a bit mean though? I mean, I AM going to because it'll be easier to quarantine it in a small, sterile cage, but I'd rather not move it from a large, spacious area into a box for too long.

Saying that, it actually brings me onto another point - why do I need to quarantine for so long? 2 months is quite a while, whenever I've quarantined animals in the past it's only been for a month tops! What illnesses are there that a crestie could actually carry and give to a leopard? The only one I can think of is cryptosporidium, but can Cresties even get that?

Thanks
 

Yoshi'smom

New member
Okay, I never thought of that with the heat. That makes quite a lot of sense!

Wouldn't putting it in a smaller enclosure be a bit mean though? I mean, I AM going to because it'll be easier to quarantine it in a small, sterile cage, but I'd rather not move it from a large, spacious area into a box for too long.

Saying that, it actually brings me onto another point - why do I need to quarantine for so long? 2 months is quite a while, whenever I've quarantined animals in the past it's only been for a month tops! What illnesses are there that a crestie could actually carry and give to a leopard? The only one I can think of is cryptosporidium, but can Cresties even get that?

Thanks

I start all of my babies in smaller enclosures and upgrade when they get larger. It actually helps them to feel more secure as well as helping them to find their food easier as well. A LOT of keepers and breeders would recommend this/do this. We've found that a baby gecko in a large enclosure usually leads to stress and a lack of appetite. I keep babies in smaller enclosures like a medium Kritter Keeper, then upgrade to a medium sized enclosure when they hit about 10 grams and then upgrade again to their adult enclosure when they hit about 25-30 grams.
As far as for quarantine, 60 days is usually the norm. It's just to be safe rather than sorry.
Other than Crypto, I don't personally know of another disease off the top of my head but parasites could also be transmitted from your new gecko to your leo.
 

JTB

New member
Okay, I'm actually pretty sure that the cresteds from P@H are about 15g anyway, because I held one the other week and it felt about that. I'll give it 60 days quarantine anyway also, I don't want anything happening to my leopard gecko!

I've been reading a lot more about Repashy vs Pangea and a lot of people are saying that the 3.0 version of Repashy isn't particularly liked by their geckos. So would it be better if I just started off using Repashy watermelon mango, or MRP Classic, because it's still Repashy but apparently they actually eat it? I don't want to buy a pack of food for him/her not to eat it, it's about a tenner a pop!
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Thanks for that :D
I've already read JB's website, it's quite good!

Why ditch mealworms and waxworms? I know people say that mealworms can cause impaction and waxworms are fatty, but surely they'll be fine every now and again? I can't get crickets or roaches sadly, the last time I had crickets for my leopard gecko they smelt that bad that I'm now no longer allowed them and if I've ever mentioned roaches it's 'NO. Nonononono!' etc etc

I want cork bark, it looks really good, but in the UK (or at least where I am) they don't seem to sell it anywhere. The magnetic hides look good but you can't get them here either :/. I think bamboo might be a good option though, I can get that!

As for quarantine, that's going to be a bit tricky, I might have to temporarily keep it in a RUB/hero haven/faunarium/kritter keeper which I assume will be OK?

Talking about that, I forgot to ask something. In P@H they keep the Cresties in cages about 60X60X90, so if I got one from there would it be fine to put it straight into the 45X45X60?

Thanks again :)
Waxworms are empty calories. Most of the time geckos do not need them. I'm pretty sure you can get silkworms in the UK. Just don't feed butterworms to your crestie.

The "secret" to keeping crickets without much smell at all is to control the moisture they get. The stink people frequently complain about is the stench of decaying bodies. :(

I've fed crickets to my geckos for years. If you follow these guidelines, your crickets will NOT smell. Consider using Cricket Crack for your dry cricket diet!

Jess just shared her crestie bio vivarium. She's also got a 45 x 45 x 60 ET. Here it is:

14064071_10154351668440132_981841501138971622_n (1).jpg

Try the UK equivalent of a 56 qt plastic tub for your quarantine set-up. After your 60 day quarantine, your 45 x 45 x 60 will be fine.
 
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Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Okay, I'm actually pretty sure that the cresteds from P@H are about 15g anyway, because I held one the other week and it felt about that. I'll give it 60 days quarantine anyway also, I don't want anything happening to my leopard gecko!

I've been reading a lot more about Repashy vs Pangea and a lot of people are saying that the 3.0 version of Repashy isn't particularly liked by their geckos. So would it be better if I just started off using Repashy watermelon mango, or MRP Classic, because it's still Repashy but apparently they actually eat it? I don't want to buy a pack of food for him/her not to eat it, it's about a tenner a pop!

From all I've heard Pangea Complete is what the crestie people use in my neck of the woods. Two of my friends carry that product.

I'd not purchase any powdered diet that was not completely balanced.
 
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JTB

New member
Even if I could get crickets not to smell, I wouldn't be allowed them anyway - I'm not in charge of what comes in and out of the house. Plus it would only be the crestie eating them, which means they'd only be being fed off say three at a time every three weeks when you consider the other insects I've got. They'd just end up dying and smelling anyway :/ However, I can get dried crickets - I could crumble them up into the cgd. I know live are way better, but something is better than nothing, right?

I don't know where I'd get silkworms (probably online) but aren't they really hard to keep? I've read previously that they need a special diet of mulberry leaves and they need to be kept warm and I doubt I'd be able to provide that! I don't even know what a mulberry tree looks like!

Are newly moulted mealies a good choice? The squashy white ones that haven't got a hard exoskeleton yet? People say that they aren't full of the hard chitin like the hardened ones.

I'm not sure on how many litres 56 quarts is, nobody I know uses quarts and pints very often here anymore! I can easily get hold of 9l boxes though, and bigger sizes if needs be. That won't be a problem.

I do believe that all of the crested powders by Repashy are complete diets apart from grubs n' fruit which is like a treat. I might just get the normal one and see how it goes, if the crestie doesn't like it I'll try PFMC with insects.

Thanks, I'll check out the links :)
 

Yoshi'smom

New member
I would definitely recommend Pangea for your gecko. All of my geckos love it.
There's a flavor that includes insects in it already so you would be covered on that base. That flavor is hands down the favorite in my house.
I don't have any experience with Repashy. I've heard that some geckos don't like the taste of it.
 

JTB

New member
I've read that the PFMC with insects is most readily taken, in fact I'd probably just get that first. It's just that can't swapping a food so suddenly upset the gecko's stomach? Otherwise, I wouldn't waste a load of money on Repashy just to get a different food two weeks later!

This is why I'm thinking of getting the Repashy watermelon mango, or MRP original, because these are both complete but aparently the geckos really like these flavours. Then I wouldn't be wasting money on the standard Repashy but it wouldn't be so much of a change as going right on to Pangea.
 

JTB

New member
I've just realised, the Repashy flavour is called Repashy Mango Superblend, not watermelon mango, that's a Pangea flavour. Oops!
 

JTB

New member
By classic, do you mean the Repashy Crested Gecko MRP-Classic or just normal Repashy CGD? Do your geckos like them? It would give me peace of mind if I could feed Repashy because I know I wouldn't be upsetting the little fellow's stomach, but it wouldn't be any good if he didn't really like it!
 

Revasius

New member
I'd reccomend Pangea over Repashy CGD any day. I've had great success with the "Insects" flavor. My previously-picky geckos will clean a bowl of that stuff in minutes. For your FTS question, it's definitely possible to prevent FTS as long as it isn't genetic. Provide lots of climbing areas (both vertical and horizontal.) I'd reccomend getting some of those suction cup soap dishes that you can buy at any home decor store or online. They're usually under $5 as opposed to $20 "reptile ledges," and work just as well. Make sure to feed a diet of primarily CGD and to dust and gutload any insects you feed before giving them to your gecko, and FTS should not be a problem. :)
 
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