If you could only choose just one, what would you choose?

[IrishEyes]

So, I got my 3 lady P. laticauda yesterday. They came with an Exo Terra viv size 18"x18"24", which included food (Pangea Fruit Mix™ With Insects Complete Gecko Diet), a thriving orchid, a feeder, some "mud" on the bottom, about 2" thick, and the Exo Terra hood w/2 outdated bulbs needing replacing.

We re-did the enclosure, cleaning it well, disinfecting (even though the same 3 ladies were going back inside), and then adding 2 1/2" hydroballs under mesh, 3" coco fiber, numerous live plants in pots, and bamboo at several different angles and heights. Edit to add that we also covered all of the plants and the spaces between them with sphagnum moss. We added a digital thermometer and hygrometer, as well as replacing the original hood and bulbs with a ReptiSun 5.0 UVB (T8 fitting) in a new fixture for it. Also added was a double light hood to which we added day and nighttime basking bulbs.

The temperature, using just one or the other heat/basking bulb, holds steady at 76F. With both bulbs on, it holds steady at about 84F.

The problem lies with the humidity, which, even while spraying the viv 6x today, wouldn't stay above 65% for more than a few minutes.

So here's my question: If you could choose just one way of adding humidity (since I can't spend all day misting the viv) would you choose a fogger or a mister, and why?

Hopefully, here are photos of the setup, and of 2 of the 3 ladies (according to the previous owner), in case that helps you make a decision based on photos and info.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

:yahoo: It all looks good.

I don't know whether it's important to keep a constant humidity for Phelsuma laticauda or whether the viv should dry out some during the day like for crested geckos.

• A friend of mine breeds them. She lives near Portland, Oregon. She mists hers in the evening 1x per day and keeps them on a coco fiber substrate, not layered.
• Pour some water into the hydroball layer. That's an excellent way to increase humidity. That's what those hyroballs are for.
• If they shed fine, it's humid enough.

If you insist, I'd choose a mister. They can be timed for duration and frequency of output. Mistking makes remarkable products.

Is there some reason you decided on a Zoo Med Reptisun T8 5.0 UVB tube instead of a 10.0 tube? Screen reduces UVB transmission up to 50%.

 

[IrishEyes]

:yahoo: It all looks good.

I don't know whether it's important to keep a constant humidity for Phelsuma laticauda or whether the viv should dry out some during the day like for crested geckos.

• A friend of mine breeds them. She lives near Portland, Oregon. She mists hers in the evening 1x per day and keeps them on a coco fiber substrate, not layered.
• Pour some water into the hydroball layer. That's an excellent way to increase humidity. That's what those hyroballs are for.
• If they shed fine, it's humid enough.

If you insist, I'd choose a mister. They can be timed for duration and frequency of output. Mistking makes remarkable products.

Is there some reason you decided on a Zoo Med Reptisun T8 5.0 UVB tube instead of a 10.0 tube? Screen reduces UVB transmission up to 50%.

Because, during my research, everything I read said to use the 5.0 UVB tube, and that the 10.0 was for desert species. Nothing I saw mentioned screens reducing UVB transmission. I do have calcium supplements w/vitamin D for extra calcium, so I'll dust crickets or other insects with it, in addition to using the UVB bulb, until this bulb needs replacing. At which point I'll keep in mind that the 10.0 might be a better option. No use wasting good money by not using the current bulb, though, imho. After all, we paid a lot of money for new supplies. Those bulbs and fixtures don't come cheap!

The girls DO dry out between water bottle mistings, no worries there. Using a mister seems to make sense, so we'll find a decent one (we found some good ones online at MistKing, I think) and go with that unless someone suggests a better reason to go with a fogger.

I'll take your advice about pouring water on the hydroballs. It makes good sense. Any idea how much water I should pour on them? A pint? A quart? More, or less?

Anyway, thank you for taking the time to reply. I truly appreciate it! I got these girls in Portland, but from a Russian man, not a lady. Does your friend sell babies that she raises? Who knows? Someday, I might like a male. Their markings are so much prettier and more distinct, imho.

Thanks again .

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Because, during my research, everything I read said to use the 5.0 UVB tube, and that the 10.0 was for desert species. Nothing I saw mentioned screens reducing UVB transmission. I do have calcium supplements w/vitamin D for extra calcium, so I'll dust crickets or other insects with it, in addition to using the UVB bulb, until this bulb needs replacing. At which point I'll keep in mind that the 10.0 might be a better option. No use wasting good money by not using the current bulb, though, imho. After all, we paid a lot of money for new supplies. Those bulbs and fixtures don't come cheap!

The girls DO dry out between water bottle mistings, no worries there. Using a mister seems to make sense, so we'll find a decent one (we found some good ones online at MistKing, I think) and go with that unless someone suggests a better reason to go with a fogger.

I'll take your advice about pouring water on the hydroballs. It makes good sense. Any idea how much water I should pour on them? A pint? A quart? More, or less?

Anyway, thank you for taking the time to reply. I truly appreciate it! I got these girls in Portland, but from a Russian man, not a lady. Does your friend sell babies that she raises? Who knows? Someday, I might like a male. Their markings are so much prettier and more distinct, imho.

Thanks again .

There are directions right on Zoo Med's Reptisun T8 box that mention screens and UVB tranmission. Zoo Med tells me their T8 UVB fluorescent tubes are good for 1 year. That's how often I've replaced mine for the last 10+ years.

Hydroballs absorb moisture without producing mold. Start by adding a pint of water, maybe more. Recheck the humidity. Most ALL the water should be absorbed by the hydroballs where it keeps producing humidity. Don't let the water level reach the coco fiber!

What brand calcium with D3 do you have? Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 has the lowest amount of D3 per dose. It's quite adequate when used at 1 feeding per week.

You've done well. I know supplies are expensive.

My friend does sell her Phelsuma laticauda. She's not producing many.

 

[IrishEyes]

There are directions right on Zoo Med's Reptisun T8 box that mention screens and UVB tranmission. Zoo Med tells me their T8 UVB fluorescent tubes are good for 1 year. That's how often I've replaced mine for the last 10+ years.

Hydroballs absorb moisture without producing mold. Start by adding a pint of water, maybe more. Recheck the humidity. Most ALL the water should be absorbed by the hydroballs where it keeps producing humidity. Don't let the water level reach the coco fiber!

What brand calcium with D3 do you have? Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 has the lowest amount of D3 per dose. It's quite adequate when used at 1 feeding per week.

You've done well. I know supplies are expensive.

My friend does sell her Phelsuma laticauda. She's not producing many.

We read the box info, including looking at the thing with all the UVB numbers at varying depths, but for the life of me, I don't remember seeing anything about screens. I'll have my husband go over it with a fine tooth comb in a bit--his "close up" eyesight is much better than mine.

Calcium brand is Rep Cal. "Phosphorus-Free Calcium w/Vitamin D3, Ultrafine Powder". Guaranteed Analysis: Calcium, minimum 35%, maximum 40%. Vitamin D3: minimum 400,000IU/Kg. According to the instructions for feeding, looks like we should be mixing it with Herptivite 1:1. I guess we'll be wandering up to our LPS to see if they carry it here at the beach. If not, we'll get some next time we're in Portland.

If your friend ever has a definite male up for sale, I would definitely be interested in purchasing it. Please let her know, or hook us up .

Thanks again for your excellent advice. I really appreciate that you've taken the time to reply to my queries. You obviously rock .

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

We read the box info, including looking at the thing with all the UVB numbers at varying depths, but for the life of me, I don't remember seeing anything about screens. I'll have my husband go over it with a fine tooth comb in a bit--his "close up" eyesight is much better than mine.

Calcium brand is Rep Cal. "Phosphorus-Free Calcium w/Vitamin D3, Ultrafine Powder". Guaranteed Analysis: Calcium, minimum 35%, maximum 40%. Vitamin D3: minimum 400,000IU/Kg. According to the instructions for feeding, looks like we should be mixing it with Herptivite 1:1. I guess we'll be wandering up to our LPS to see if they carry it here at the beach. If not, we'll get some next time we're in Portland.

If your friend ever has a definite male up for sale, I would definitely be interested in purchasing it. Please let her know, or hook us up .

Thanks again for your excellent advice. I really appreciate that you've taken the time to reply to my queries. You obviously rock .

You're welcome, Irish Eyes! I try to "be there". I'm NOT looking forward to returning my laptop for repairs in the next week and being with little to no internet for up to 2 weeks.

There are Zoo Med lighting tips on all 4 sides of the ReptiSun box. This tip is under "Lamp Distance".

PM me your name and email. I'll send it to my friend. I don't know what she has right now.

Of all the supplements out there, I don't recommend Rep-Cal's.

Rep-Cal's Calcium with D3 contains 38x more D3 than Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3. It's simply overkill and could be harmful. Especially in your situation because gecko keepers usually do either UVB OR vitamin D3 powder.

Herptivite contains beta carotene, not vitamin A acetate (retinol). It's been proven that reptiles need a very small amount of vitamin A acetate (retinol) weekly to help beta carotene.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

#132---Why I recommend Zoo Med's Repti Calcium w/ D3 & Zoo Med's ReptiVite w/o D3

Here's why I do what I do and use the supplements I use.

These are the supplements I use:

• Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
• Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3 (Both the Reptile Supply Company and Amazon carry ReptiVite.)
• NOW brand or Zoo Med's plain calcium carbonate

There are multiple reasons I prefer the supplements I recommend.

• Some vitamins (A, D, E, & K, for example) are fat soluble. They stick around a longer time and don't need to be taken daily/at every feeding.
• Vitamin C and the B vitamins are water soluble. They are excreted in urine.
• As your gecko grows, she will eat larger and larger crickets. Then, when you dust, she'll naturally be getting more and more supplements per cricket.
• Zoo Med's ReptiVite™ is highly recommended by Scott Stahl, DVM, the premiere reptile vet.
• My vet only recommends a wee pinch of Zoo Med's ReptiVite™ multivitamins at 1 feeding per week.
• Phosphorus negatively impacts calcium absorption. The more phosphorus a supplement has, the less any calcium is absorbed by the bones.
• Vitamin D3 needs to be taken with food.
• Calcium needs vitamin D3 in order to be absorbed. Dusting with plain calcium carbonate without giving D3 only helps if there is residual D3 inside your gecko.
• Excess calcium in the digestive tract can hinder absorption of vitamins A and D.
• Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 only contains 22,907 IU of D3 per pound. Repti Calcium contains "enough" D3.
• One schedule isn't good for life. There are actually 3 schedules: 124, 125, & 126.
• For geckos 12 months old and younger (and breeding females) there is one day of pure calcium.
• It's harmful to have D3 in both the multivitamin and the calcium powder.

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Speaking of which, Dr. Scott Stahl, the premiere reptile vet, highly recommends the ZooMed product, ReptiVite™. Dr. Stahl states: "Originally formulated for zoos, it seems to work better than any other product I've tried including the Repashy supplements."

"My gutload mix includes paprika for Vitamin A. I also include carrot and dandelion greens for their moisture and other vitamins and nutrients. Plant-based is always more assimilable than manufactured supplements."

/\ Thanks to GU's billewicz (Michael) for sharing Dr. Stahl's feedback!

Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...rounds-drying-geckos-feetsies.html#post456690

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There are subtle reasons I do what I do.

• Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 actually contains significantly more calcium per "dose" than does ReptiVite with or without D3 per "dose".
  • Repti Calcium with D3: 38-43% calcium per dose
  • ReptiVite: 25-28% calcium per dose
• Your gecko gets weekly vitamin D3 without overdoing other multivitamins.
• ReptiVite contains phosphorus; Repti Calcium is phosphorus-free.
• My recommendations depend upon feeding your crickets a good diet.

 

[IrishEyes]

I've actually printed out the above post for reference, and for my shopping list. Thanks for taking the time to share it! Truly appreciated.

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

I've actually printed out the above post for reference, and for my shopping list. Thanks for taking the time to share it! Truly appreciated.

You're most welcome!