Trying to get gecko off hand feeding

[dolphin_ac]

Hi,

I have a 3 year old male gecko that I've had since he was 6 months old. I had no problem feeding him out of a dish when he was a juvenile (mealworms only, because he refused crickets). A year ago, he didn't eat for 1 week, and I started hand feeding him the mealworms one at a time, since he'll only eat moving worms. I've tried crickets, silkworms, hornworms with no success). He generally eats well (8 - 14 mealworms every 2 - 3 days). The worms are dusted with either calcium and vit D, or vitamins.

I'm trying to get him to eat out of dish again, but no success. I leave a piece of carrot with the worms to keep them moving while in the tank.

Does anyone have any suggestions? How long should I try before I start hand feeding him again?

Thanks!

 

[Keeboard]

I'd try Dubia roaches, they're the healthiest feeder. Dusting the insects every feeding could cause your Leo to severely overdose, they only need to be dusted in calcium every other feeding and multivitamins every three feedings. Could you try to get him to hunt out side of the dish? It's much more stimulating than feeding him out of a dish or by hand

 

[PoppyDear]

I agree with most everything said above though I would like to add a few things!

Feeding in a dish is convenient and feeding by hand is not. But both of these techniques take away the activity and stimulation your gecko could have when hunting. Instead you can just drop the mealworms into the tank so he can go and hunt them himself. If he has been feeding on just mealworms his entire life in the two outlined methods you listed I would strongly reccomend you try and let him hunt them. It is fantastic for a Leo to be able to excercise a little and it is even a little fun to watch them stalk their prey! I only use a bowl when I am gone their feeding night, even then not all geckos will eat out of a bowl no matter what you do.

Another thing is that you probably want to try and switch your feeders. How often do you offer other insects? You can try not feeding him for a little longer than normal and then offer new insects. He can either hold out for mealworms or eat the new insects, he will not let himself starve. While making a transition from one staple to another, keep feeding the original staple as well as the new until you can wean him off most mealworms. This makes the change less abrupt.

To show you the differences in nutrition of the feeders, I will provide the nutrition of other healthy staples compared to the mealworm.

• http://www.geckotime.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/table-large.png

• The Most Complete Feeder Insect Nutrition Chart | The Reptile Report

 

[dolphin_ac]

Thanks Keeboard and Poppy Dear for your suggestions. Unfortunately, roaches are banned in Canada, so can't feed him those. I do drop the mealworms so he can hunt them, but more often than not they scramble to the side of the tank before he can get to them. So I drop them one at a time and make sure he can get it.
I'm surprised he doesn't like silkworms or hornworms... they would be easier to leave in the tank. Crickets always seemed to fast for him, so he doesn't care for them.
I think I'll try leaving them in the bowl for a few days, but I have a feeling he's going to be a difficult one to train.:roll:

 

[PoppyDear]

Ah! Try popping the crickets into the fridge or freezer for a few minutes to slow them down, then you can put them in a bowl if you want, but they should be slow enough for him to grab.

Does he know the mealworms are in the bowl? My two refuse to eat out of their bowl, I use them mostly to hold the insects and coat them in powder.

Good luck!

 

[Keeboard]

You can leave the crickets in the fridge for a few minutes to slow them down

 

[Elizabeth Freer]

Thanks Keeboard and Poppy Dear for your suggestions. Unfortunately, roaches are banned in Canada, so can't feed him those. I do drop the mealworms so he can hunt them, but more often than not they scramble to the side of the tank before he can get to them. So I drop them one at a time and make sure he can get it.
I'm surprised he doesn't like silkworms or hornworms... they would be easier to leave in the tank. Crickets always seemed to fast for him, so he doesn't care for them.
I think I'll try leaving them in the bowl for a few days, but I have a feeling he's going to be a difficult one to train.:roll:

Another way to slow down crickets is to amputate their back legs right below their "knees". This also keeps crickets in 8 ounce feeding bowls with straight sides.

Most leos really love hornworms. They are full of nutrition and calcium. Maybe your leo could try them again?

Buy very small hornworms. They will mushroom in size overnight, so only very briefly keep them at room temperature (70*F; 21.1*C). Then transfer them to either a Playmate picnic-type cooler or a wine cooler set at about 55*F (12.8*C). A basement may also work.

Approximate nutritional content of hornworms (source Mulberry Farms)

• Protein: 9%
• Fat: 3%
• Calcium: 46.4mg/100mg
• Calcium : phosphorus ratio is 1:3 [Lightly dust hornworms with calcium without vitamin D3 to rebalance this ratio.]
• Moisture: 85%

Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...eeding-issues-/68585-hornworm-guidelines.html